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Member postings for Mike T

Here is a list of all the postings Mike T has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Hub puller required
04/10/2017 14:02:47
Posted by Engine Doctor on 04/10/2017 10:27:25:

As requested . This one at £4.34 or even cheaper this one at £3.78 inc postage .

Edited By Engine Doctor on 04/10/2017 10:31:36

They look useful - thanks. I'd probably go for the slightly more expensive, but more refined versions also listed.

I'm not averse to using heat, but unless you're replacing bearings, proceed with caution or you may damage the seals.

Thread: What do people use to support their models when working on them ?
03/10/2017 21:05:43

Christmas is coming! Lidl/Aldi will probably soon be restocking their keyboards - for which a stand is usually available. About 15 quid as I recall. (They probably do a cheap ironing board too, but that's outside my area of expertise!)

BTW, why is it that 'proper' foam model stands are so blinking expensive?

Thread: Trailing edge profile
03/10/2017 21:01:50

Take a look at the Lidl glider, chaps! Puts it all into perspective!

Thread: Hub puller required
03/10/2017 20:54:02
Posted by Braddock, VC on 26/09/2017 22:49:53: this should be a link to it.

Thanks for that useful link - I've been looking for something similar for a while!

ED - if you have some alternatives, perhaps you'd like to 'put up'...

Thread: Design & Build Dornier Do 24
18/09/2017 19:50:51

A lot of Dornier's flying boats could be a bit slab-sided and 'four-square' - the Do 24 is a glorious exception!

For me, the research and drawing up is one of the most enjoyable parts of any build (and usually as far as it gets blush), so I'm looking forward to this build!

BTW - I think the word you're looking for is 'sponson'

Thread: Webra spares
18/09/2017 16:09:38

You might like to try an ebay seller called Abel Coelho.

He's from Portugal and regularly advertises Webra parts. I got a Speed 61F front housing off him a year or so ago.

Edited By Mike T on 18/09/2017 16:11:24

Thread: Multiple servo quick connector
14/09/2017 22:23:30

I installed some Bluebird servos in a DLG a couple of weeks back which didn't match my existing housings, which is why I bothered to point it out.

The pin spacing IS standard, but the pins and their housings are not. The worse case is a pin that hasn't 'latched' which gets pushed out of it's housing on connection, that appears to work with a quick waggle of the sticks and then fails in the air.

It would be nice to be able to recommend this solution to the OP without reservation, but all I'm suggesting is that if he does adopt it, that he is aware of any potential pitfalls.

Thread: New switch required
14/09/2017 21:50:30

Can you guys let us know the make and tech specs of the actual switches mounted in those units, please?

I notice that they are wired to switch both +ve and -ve wires. When making up my own harnesses, only the -ve wire is switched, but both poles are used, so doubling the contact area and increasing current handling capability. I'm pretty sure that's how the bog-standard JR and Futaba type harnesses are made up these days, as well.

It would be interesting to hear pros and cons to both approaches.

Thread: Multiple servo quick connector
14/09/2017 21:36:17
Posted by Geoff Sleath on 14/09/2017 20:41:56:

I don't like the Multiplex connectors because they don't have a housing nor any means of stress relief for the connecting wires.

Geoff - that's what the 'emcotec' connectors (Frank's second link) are for. They are soldered to the pins of the multiplex plug, then you solder your wires to the pad. Strain relief built in. Just cover with shrink to finish:


14/09/2017 21:28:42
Posted by Andy48 on 14/09/2017 21:18:24:

The ones in your photo could be from any era in the past and any make. The Dupont housings I mentioned above are identical to the JR and Futaba servo plug housings except they do not have the chamfered corner of the JR or the small shoulder of the Futaba housing.

That's the point. If you are using Futaba or JR servos then you are good to go. For any other make, it's a lottery and there are many more brands out there than just Futaba or JR...

Thread: Electronic Conspicuity, the CAA and Model Aircraft
14/09/2017 21:20:35
Posted by ChrisB on 14/09/2017 19:40:51:

That sounds quite a sensible option. Once switched on, the TX transmits both the RC signal and a transponder signal for full size. The only fairly significant issue is retro fitting to the many thousands of existing transmitters in circulation.

Agreed. LBT functionality could be used so that only one tx need transpond when there are several switched on.

As for retro-fitting, this can be got around by using a stand-alone modules (issued free to Clubs by your local airport wink 2  )

Although this is yet another imposition on us, I think the BMFA/LMA should press the CAA to get some reciprocal benefit for model flyers, not least acceptance of the principle that if an established Club, flying in a known/recorded location is transmitting their 'bubble' then full size aircraft have an absolute responsibility to avoid flying into it and are entirely responsible for any consequences if they do...

Edited By Mike T on 14/09/2017 21:21:10

Thread: Multiple servo quick connector
14/09/2017 21:00:52
Posted by Andy48 on 14/09/2017 16:31:10:.

They are exactly the same.

I like the idea of the multiple housings, but there is a variation between brands unfortunately, as a random selection from my spares box shows:


I have used the multiplex connectors and emcotec solder pads linked by Frank. You get a good solder connection, strain relief and a good gripping area for separating. The overall package is quite slim as well and while not 'blade'-like, might well give you the wriggle-room you require.

As for losing the ends - I usually tie mine with a bit of kevlar thread, tied or tacked in the fus somewhere. Hook the thread with your pinky to fish them out!

Edited By Mike T on 14/09/2017 21:01:54

Thread: ARTF - The Stevo way
14/09/2017 20:37:20

Well, in my experience, the 'trad' kit makers didn't always cover themselves in glory!

Re servo mounting, I can't say I've ever found the ferrules reaching to the top of the grommets. The gap means a degree of compression is introduced when tightening the screws down - just enough to give a resilient fixing.

Re the tank - the elongated exposed section of bung is designed so that when the loosely assembled tank neck is fed into the bulkhead aperture, the act of tightening it causes the bung to expand in the hole, which seals the tank,, secures it at its front end and seals off the engine compartment from the rest of the fus., preventing ingress of fuel. Sometimes the pre-drilled hole will need easing to achieve this.

HTH - great 'how-to' so far...

Thread: Petrol first timer
03/09/2017 20:09:28

Yup! Well spotted! yes

Thread: Pegasus Models - Models
03/09/2017 20:07:27

Who assured you the Saito would fit? If (as I assume) it was Pegasus, then I think I'd probably make a fuss about the return costs, if I was you.

It's a shame, but you increasingly have to second guess these things today. I recently bought a replacement muffler for the Club mower, from ebay. The seller had two. I felt obliged to add a note to my payment to ensure I got the one I bought and not the much tattier alternative! (Still waiting to see how that pans out...)

Thread: New switch required
03/09/2017 19:38:56

Fair enough if you're using the charge port type switch with a pcb. I have one, but just use it for bench work as it's too bulky for use on a plane. I usually use just the type with 2 or 3 leads and I've never know any switch of that type to be 'potted'. Strain reilief on them (if any) is a knot in the cable to stop it pulling through the case.

Incidentally, it's always been my experience that "heavy duty" usually refers to the case work and wiring - the guts of the switch is usually the same for both 'normal' and HD.

Thread: cutting 3 mm balsa and ply to fit servo
03/09/2017 14:34:02

A hand fretsaw with fine blade for the ply and a craft knife and straight edge for the balsa.

Or just buy some fine blades for the power scroll saw?

Thread: New switch required
03/09/2017 14:24:54
Posted by cymaz on 03/09/2017 12:36:30:

... Same potential failure

I'm struggling to see what that is, TBH. The negative wires appear to be firmly soldered to the track and the (redundant) signal wire likewise, to provide a little additional strain relief. The +ve wire is soldered between the pole contacts and the gap between them is bridged to provide switching redundancy (though you'll only find out that one pole has failed if the other one does...)

I used to buy the heavy duty locking toggle switches from Terry at SM. Of course, they attracted their 'sledgers' as well, with people claiming that engine vibration would cause the toggle to jump over the lock!! It's a pity they can't be got any more.

The machining on the RCWorld switches is nice (polished/anodised alloy being de rigeur for big petrol 3D type planes), but the switch underneath appears to be the same DPST toggle that can be had from Maplins, RS, etc for a quid or so.

Thread: key fob camera
03/09/2017 01:14:30

This is the original keychain camera info/review site:


Thread: Is it me or is this a rubbish summer or am becoming a grumpy old man!!!
29/08/2017 10:55:46

3 days of glorious sunshine on our new field hot smile d

We seem to have had the same weather pattern for the last decade - a fine spell in May/June. Crappy July/early August. Better weather late August and an 'Indian Summer' in September/October if we're lucky.

It does seem to have been windier this year, but with the prevailing westerlies that just means we've spent more time on the slopes. A bunch of old geezers reclining in the heather, looking like an out-take from "Last of the Summer Wine"!!

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