Here is a list of all the postings Mike T has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Is there a new breed of servo ?|
They can only be used in very large models where they can be kept at least 2 metres apart. (I'll get me coat...)
I quite like Bluebird servos. Most of them seem to be made in Taiwan, which for me = Japanese standards of quality control.
I won't touch Supertec with a bargepole, but you don't see those around so much any more...
|Thread: Drone crashes are now investigated by the AAIB|
When I first read this thread, I thought "wouldn't it be great if the AAIB could be got to investigate all our crashes?"
They'd lay out your wreckage in one of their hangars, interrogate you and your radio gear, examine your airframe minutely, then publish a report pinpointing, definitively the cause of your crash. Peace of mind and an end to fruitless speculation!
Then I read the link that Leccy posted:
“The cause of the control signal loss was not established.”
So - they have no more bleddy idea than we have!
|Thread: How to|
Yup! I do the same as you (and Don). Also use this method for accurately positioning wing locating dowels in bulkheads
Edited By Mike T on 14/03/2020 14:35:10
|Thread: How to Paint Roundels|
Masking film every time. For the outer parts of large roundels, cut 1/4 or 1/3 diameter segments for your circles. This reduces waste and makes laying down the film easier, especially on the undulating top surface of a typical fabric-covered wing with riblets! I use my compass and 4B pencil for lightly marking where the masking film should go.
I've tried using the ruling pen attachment in my 'spring bow' compass, but to no good effect. I accept I don't have the knack and (for the limited use it would get) neither the patience or inclination to acquire it!
|Thread: Flying Scale Models Magazine.|
It is a useful resource and we're lucky to have it.
BUT: be careful of those 'plan included' messages that flash up. You need to check the detailed description and even then it does not always make it clear that the plan is NOT included. Best get in touch before buying if it's te plan you're really after!
|Thread: Sample Pots|
It depends on your take-away, but my response to the OP's question is "Onion Bhajees".
Mine come with a little (lidded) pot of raita. Washed out after use, they are ideal for small portions of resin and can be 'flexed' clean after the previous occupant has gone off.
Big enough to get a reasonable quantity in and small enough to be weighed on my drug dealers scales!
|Thread: The Gov't, CAA, BMFA & UAV legislation thread|
Labels - how hard has it got to be? Printed off a list of my ID on bog standard A4, 25mm long, 3.2mm high. Cut them out with a scissors and sellotape to the plane! By the time I'm finished the entire exercise will have cost less than a quid.
Also re police interest, a retired copper friend of mine says if he knows anything about the force, they'll be competing amongst themselves to see who can chalk up the first pinch and £1000 fine.
So when the local gauleiter struts up to you and demands 'papieren!', you'd better have your 'ausweis' handy! (And mind you don't give yourself away if he wishes you 'good luck' in English...)
|Thread: Pushrod connectors|
You should use what you are most comfortable with. What I described will achieve perfectly secure results, but if you need something 'heavier duty' to give you confidence, then fine.
At the end of the day, all you are trying to do is stop a nut unwinding (the load is on the threaded pin). It doesn't take a lot to achieve that.
They need a bit of management, to be sure (a.k.a. basic engineering). I use them (as supplied) on most electric ARTFs for all control surfaces, but usually only on throttles for i.c. That said, I once had them (again as supplied) on all the controls of a .60-sized Great Planes 'Shoestring'. Never had a problem.
Once the set-up has been established, I'll file away the grub screw's 'witness mark' to leave a small flat on the pushrod, then screw it down tight with Loctite. Not cyano, not 5 min. epoxy. Loctite. I'm pretty sure the guys who have been formulating and manufacturing these engineering compounds for years know what they are about...
The problem with nylocs is that the thread on the fixing may not be long enough to tap into the nylon collar before it tightens on the horn. I've had these fixings in the past with nyloc nuts supplied, but they were threaded to suit.
I'm not a fan of superglue on threads either, so I'd bite the bullet and get the Loctite threadlocker.
(Martin and Don - I had a quiet little bet with myself when I posted - and you won it for me )
Loctite (the blue stuff). Do them up tight then back off until you get the free movement required, then wait for it to go off. You also need to loctite the screws gripping the pushrod.
PS - you can get lucky if the threaded pin has a longer than usual plain area near the base. The nut can then often be tightened up firmly and still give free movement on the horn...
Edited By Mike T on 15/02/2020 14:26:46
|Thread: Horizon Hobby not Responding|
OK - I'll try again
My point is that where you/we are dealing with a supplier who has 'form' (HH in this case, as evidenced by your tale and that of other posters - Jason-I is the laterst) a pre-emptive strike may be in order. That is, in your/our initial communications with them, inform them that you are posting the issue on (insert media of choice) to inform others and keep them abreast of developments. It needn't be threatening or nasty - just informative and lets them know they are under scrutiny. They may not give a flying fish, but what harm can it do but to try?
You/I/we wouldn't take this action with known 'good guys', unless it was to post after the event how well they'd handled it.
Mine wouldn't be, if they'd only responded after a 'name and shame' post on a forum with international exposure!
The usual forum etiquette is to give suppliers a chance to resolve problems before making waves online, but many prove to be serial offenders.
Perhaps the best 'standard operating procedure' with these is to follow their reporting process, but with the inclusion of a statement that the matter is also being posted on RCG etc. so that the wider modelling community can monitor the outcome. Obviously, a good result should be trumpeted as loudly as a bad one. Stick and carrot...
|Thread: Poor Solartex Application|
If that's silver Solartex, then a hot iron with sock (to prevent bruising) will seal the worst of those open edges on the wing tapes and probably most of the wrinkles. A hot air gun will pull out the rest, with a soft cloth (or the iron sock) in your other hand to smooth down and ensure adhesion.
(I don't like the silver 'tex tbh. If I'm doing 'silver' fabric now, I'll use natural or white 'tex and paint it.)
|Thread: Making holes through your ribs!|
I usually use the "wing on board, sharpened tube in steadies" method - but usually for going through foam wings.
If the original builder has omitted provision for servos/wiring/linkages before covering, then I think I'd want to take some of that covering off to see if there were any other horrors lurking within!
|Thread: Plan printing without taping lots of sheets|
That's excellent, thanks for sharing. It does seem to be printer dependent, as I can't see any option to select a custom paper size with mine (HP Deskjet 410).
Just a thought re paper. If you can get hold of some A0 or A1 sheets fairly cheaply, you could cut these down to A4 width strips and avoid the seam altogether.
|Thread: Theory of the operation of a servo|
OK - so how should we refer to them?
|Thread: Recommendations please|
You shouldn't zap NiMH like you would a NiCd, but 2C is generally reckoned to be OK.
I recently bought one of these: Turnigy Quad 4x6S , primarily for LiPos, but it will do everything else as well. Seems to be working very well so far (about 6 months use).
There's no mains input - I just get 12v from a cheap converted server rack supply.
|Thread: DB Sopwith Pup flying weight|
My Pup is about 15/16lb and built from a very old (pre-Stocker) kit. I made sure I got all the weight up front. The elevator and rudder servos are as far forward in the fus. as possible and the throttle servo lives in the (near-scale length) cowl, along with the servo battery (5-cell Sub-C NiMH), ignition pack and Rx pack (both 4-cell AA NiMH). Even the switches/charging jacks are behind the cowling side panels.
I also built the tail surfaces to scale outlines by trimming the kit components. It's all covered with Sig Koverall, to reduce the acres of redundant adhesive that are carried around with Solartex. (Moot point, as it still had to be doped/painted!)
Despite all that, it needed a substantial lump of brass bar to be strapped under the battery mount, to get the CG to an acceptable point. It's still a little pitch-sensitive, but the sort of thing a gyro (or gyro-receiver) could easily sort out.
BTW - although the rigging adds tension and stiffens everything up a bit, the wings (on the original kits at least) were all intended to be self-supporting. My rigging is all single strand and fixed with standard clevises.
Edited By Mike T on 20/01/2020 12:42:16
|Thread: Can Superphatic glue go off?|
You mean, get FACTS from EXPERTS?
I don't think you've grasped how internet forums work. There are several more pages of fruitless speculation to be gone through first...
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