Here is a list of all the postings John Muir has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Another newbie|
Quite right. With a pitch difference of only 1'' the rpm change probably won't be enough to offset the thrust lost due to the pitch reduction. Sorry 'bout that.
The 12x6 will rev a little slower, draw more current and fly the plane a little faster.
The 12x5 will rev a little faster, therefore producing more thrust, meaning your aircraft will accelerate better especially from standstill or low speeds, but will produce a slightly slower top speed under power. The amps will be slightly lower because the prop loads the motor less.
The differences probably won't be huge though and it depends on the plane which will be best. Draggy, slow airframe, 12x5, sleek and fast, 12x6. Also depends on your personal preferences. Lower amps is easier on the battery too, so worth considering. Don't know if torque effects will be very different. I suppose because the 12x5 is turning a little faster torque effects might be a bit more pronounced, but I'd be surprised if it was noticeable. If you were going from, say, a 12x8 to a 12x5, it would be another story.
|Thread: Help me!|
I'd suggest that if your current planes are still in one piece and you're enjoying flying them then you have three potentially brand new planes sitting there already. Just turn off beginner mode! Go to intermediate for a while, then turn that off as well and, all of a sudden, you will have three planes capable of doing more than just cruising around in gentle circles with you along for the ride. If you've learned the basics of control and orientation, now's the time to move on. Put yourself fully in control (it might take a little time and practice) and you will find that there's so much more you can do with your planes and your feeling of satisfaction will increase. Get another plane with beginner mode enabled and it will fly just the same as the ones you already have, it'll just look a bit different. Not much point in that if you ask me. Spend the money you save on extra batteries and a club membership.
|Thread: Unexplained crash|
I once had some DYS servos which had a fault that caused electrical feedback to the receiver and made other servos connected to the receiver glitch. I replaced an aileron servo on an old plane with one and the rudder went mad. I thought the old rudder servo had gone defunct and replaced that with another DYS which only made all the servos start playing up. I figured it out on the ground luckily but if your rudder servo has developed an issue that causes something similar, maybe just when it gets hot or when vibration loosens a component, that could explain the left aileron command.
This has to be down to either the transmitter or receiver as both aileron servos got a 'go left' command at the same time. If the transmitter is in regular use with other aircraft and the same thing hasn't happened with them, then it's the receiver. Can't even pretend to know what the fault might be that could cause a spurious command on two channels though. If you only use the transmitter on this plane these days, then it might be the transmitter.
Only one other thought: you said the failsafe wasn't set. What if it was, but just not as you would have meant it to be? So a simple loss of signal might produce full aileron. In which case maybe a dodgy receiver aerial that loses its connection when it's vibrated. Or do I have an over active imagination?
|Thread: New Drone Laws from 30/5/2018|
For what it's worth, here's how I see it:
I don't think the CAA is interested in how well we can fly, I think they want to be sure we know the rules as they apply to us. For BMFA/SAA members that means reading, digesting and, above all, following the guidelines as set out in our handbooks. These organizations may, I suggest, need to come up with an on-line test for us all to take which will prove that we have read and understood these guidelines, as simply being a member may not be enough to satisfy the CAA. Having completed the theory part of the A test (or equivalent) might be accepted as a substitute, the flying part of the test I'd expect to be irrelevant and getting everyone, including country members, through it, would be completely impractical anyway.
For non members similar logic would apply but a CAA set online test would be taken which would reflect the rules that apply to them, including the 400ft limit and so on. How the casual drone purchaser is informed and persuaded of the need to do this will be somebody else's problem.
Whichever group we're in, the essential purpose of the test will be to show we know the rules and doing an on-line test ensures, at least as much as is practical, that we have read enough of them to fill out the test form. It does look like if we want to continue to fly legally, we're going to have to provide some kind of proof that we understand our legal obligations, and that means some sort of test, but I don't see the A test becoming mandatory any time soon, or ever, come to that.
I'd just like to add my thanks to our representative bodies for the excellent work done so far,
|Thread: Spring 2018 is here...been flying?|
Pretty much, except for the having it fully under control and catching it part.
I went slope soaring today. Just me, my Wild Thing and Phase 6 and a couple of passing walkers. It was great and I flew for over an hour and a half of the two hours I spent on the hill, but, as a flat field flier primarily, I really do struggle with hilltop landings. In attempting to get the Wild Thing down somewhere reasonably close I managed to fly it straight into my right hand. And I don't mean I caught it, that just happened to be the bit of me it hit. Luckily it was just bobbling about in a sort of a loosely controlled hover at the time, so no damage done, but honestly, I've watched Speedster Den's videos and it looks easy. Must try harder.
|Thread: spektrum safe technology|
Old John B,
As Mike Freeman pointed out a few posts back you can't make SAFE work with your DX6e as it doesn't have enough channels. If you are happy with things as they are, great, leave it all alone. If you want SAFE working buy a DX8 or 9. It actually says you need more than 6 channels in the retail description of the model. So stop worrying about it, it isn't you're age or lack of expertise, it just isn't possible.
You should feel better now.
|Thread: Crack Yak55 Lite|
I have a Crack Laser 'Lite' which I fly on 2S 450 packs, mainly outdoors when the wind drops in the morning or evening, but I did try it indoors in a big hall once and it performed well, even if I didn't. It's a great performer, as is my slightly heavier Crack Yak, and I can do stuff with these that I simply can't do, or wouldn't dream of trying, with bigger models. Terrific designs the pair of them. Can't go wrong, but I think you'd need a decent size hall for indoor flying as even the 'lite' models are still a fair size and not the lightest things available.
I did the same as Robin, thinking I was being clever. Now it seems cheapskates seldom differ . Maybe I went one better though, I bought three pairs and produced a reading pair and a slightly weaker pair for computer use. Absolutely perfect but it all added up to £6 in total.
I do get my eyes tested regularly though. Used to be a dispensing optician in my previous life and would feel like a terrible hypocrite if I didn't.
|Thread: Propdrive 5060 380kv|
1400W equates to about 64 amps which is well within the limitations of both your esc and motor (max 90A according to the spec), so I'd have thought it should be fine. Looking at the reviews on HobbyKing somebody tested it with 20'' props on 6S and thought it might get hot on a 20x10 but a 20x8 would be ok, so 18x10 should be good. The smaller props are probably meant for 8S batteries, which the motor is specced to take.
|Thread: Sunglasses for rc flying|
Hi Tbone, Don't know if this is of interest but you don't need dark tints to block UV. UV isn't in the visible spectrum and is very effectively blocked by the vast majority of clear spectacle lenses used these days. Extra coatings can be added to block all UVA and UVB but they are clear too. Tinted lenses simply absorb visible light making things look darker. Different colours give different visual effects but wearing lenses that are too dark in inappropriate situations can be a nuisance or even dangerous such as when driving in poor light.
When I was in optics I was told that any kind of tint was a bad thing for driving at night. Even the yellow tints cut the overall amount of light reaching the eye by at least 20% so making it harder to see things like pedestrians lurking in the shadows, which they are known to do. Better to get non reflective lenses which increase light transmission by up to 10% and cut down on glare problems caused by oncoming headlights and so on. The yellow tint should be good for flying though, it's certainly well liked in the shooting world. Personally I find it makes everything seem brighter and makes the glare feel worse, the opposite of what I'm after. I found a pair of wrap-around Bolle safety specs with a reflective reddish tint that tones things down nicely and, unusually, has a measure of protection against infra red as well as UV. Infra red is what makes your eyes feel sore and gritty after a day in the sun (we can but hope) and causes snow blindness (more likely) so maybe ski goggles would be the thing.
|Thread: Spring 2018 is here...been flying?|
Not bad here in eastern Scotland today. Got to the field for the first time in a few weeks. I had thrown my Crack Yak foamy in the car as it wasn't windy and flew it first. Nobody around so I used one of the start up tables as an aircraft carrier. Take off was easy and I managed two out of three landings back on, so quite pleased. Then dug out the battered old i.c. Wot 4 for four flights. A bit rusty to start but got better as I went on and, having managed not to break anything, decided to pack up. Breezy by this time too. However the Crack Yak was still sitting there and I couldn't resist having another go. Brilliant fun. Multiple rolls left, multiple rolls right, a fast loop and into knife edge. All with absolutely zero forward progress. Pop up into a torque roll and watch it twirl off downwind. Completely silly but cheered me up a lot. Only one other person at the field and he could only stay for a couple flights. Good to get out.
|Thread: Yet another request for model identification.|
I just typed the registration into Google and it came up with a Peyret Mauboussin XI. Sounds familiar. Did Peter Miller do one of these?
Well at least the cardboard boxes will biodegrade or recycle. Most padded envelopes won't as they're full of plastic bubble wrap.
|Thread: Pickup truck front wheel|
It's an old advert for the Nissan Frontier. All done with CGI. Even the plane has been altered so it's 'not quite' a Boeing 727 so nobody gets sued. Quite a lot about it on the internet.
|Thread: Reading Log files|
In Companion there's a little icon along the top that looks like a graph. With your transmitter connected in bootloader mode just click on that and find the file you want. They're listed under the model name and date. Then just pick the readings you want to see from the list on the left. You'll find that, as well as the current value, you'll also have RSSI, receiver voltage and all the control positions to choose from, plus any other sensors you have connected. They come up as a graph.
|Thread: Taranis EU X9D and V8 Recivers|
Sorry about the duff info re V8 compatibility. Never needed it myself and my memory was playing tricks on me. As Andy says you need the channel order set before you set up a model, but changing it yourself in the inputs screen works fine.
Re expo, all you need to do now is double click on the model in the list to open an edit window. Go to the inputs tab, double click the appropriate control to open up an edit box and go down to 'curve', click the drop-down and change it to expo. Put the value you want in the box just to the right and you're all set. On Futaba you would use negative expo but on Taranis it's positive, like JR/Spektrum.
Edited By John Muir on 03/12/2017 12:56:03
Want the latest issue of RCM&E? Use our magazine locator link to find your nearest stockist!