Here is a list of all the postings Russ P has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Peter Miller asks what next?|
That looks different, wow. Get to it Peter my enthusiasm has been tired. Cant wait to start building
|Thread: Seagull Challenger Sport LW C of G|
Thanks for the heads up on the videos.
It did go really well with the 55 in, its the same size as the 46 so fitted in easily. I try to fit a larger therefore heavier engine rather than put lots of lead up front. You don't have to go full throttle all the time! Had lots of fun with it thought I'd buy the kit version this time, something to do in isolation. Plus my local model shop had 1 in stock and he delivered to me.
I had an OS46ax in mine that required additional weight, so I put in an OS 55ax, no additional weight needed. Had the model for 3 years flew beautifully, until a low and fast pass...ouch!! Have replaced it with the kit version that's awaiting me finishing my latest build first.
|Thread: C.A.P. Tiger Moth Kit inherited.|
He He: that would explain it!
Hi Richard, I inherited a CAP kit of the Gloster Gladiator.
It also had old plans so I purchased new ones from Sarik as I had the reference number and it was the same plan.
I would assume as both kits are of the same era, the build method is the same. Namely; no instructions other than a few notes on the plan. Lazor cutting not very accurate, the ply wing joiner rib cut outs did note match the plan only discovered this after building the wing over the plan, had to cut a new ply joiner. There is also a lot of bloc balsa in the tail and nose that requires sanding to shape (a lot of sanding)! All I would say is measure, trail fit, sand to shape before gluing. I used an electric sander! The plan shows a single servo central mounted in the wing, using a rod system to drive the ailerons, I put the servos in the wing. I've finished build now for the covering, shouldn't be any issues with that....
One last thing. Work out where everything is going to go, fuel tank/battery and so on before you start building. It will be a lot easier fitting as access to the internals may be very restricted
|Thread: Bowden cable as an elevator push rod|
Looks good. How did it fly?
That's the kit. I bought it from a fellow club member for £30, inc laser cut, wood pack, canopy, cowl. So mustn't grumble. It's produce by Sarik now.
thanks to everyone for your comments.
This is a Cap kit, no instructions other than some notes on the plan, so some thought is required before cutting and glueing. So it's only when building is nearly completed you find where you went wrong. Hence the snake runs etc.
I have always only used Sullivan snakes and will always do so unless needs must.
Thanks for your replies, will give the Bowden a go. Can always remove it a and install the red Sullivan if I can get them.
I'm building an old Gloster Gladiator kit and the cable run to the rudder and elevator has a few bends which slightly restrict the rod movement of a Sullivan semi flexible rod so I thought of using a Bowden cable which has a much smoother movement due to its flexibility.
My worry is that can it take the strain of the rudder/elevator. As its a scale model it will not require vast movement of the control surfaces anyway.
|Thread: Complete a pack swordfish|
Hi I've been building the Cap Gladiator for the past 6 months and the only instructions are notes on the plan. You will need to work out a building plan yourself from the plan notes.
Also I've found the laser cut parts do not match the plan and will need tinkering to fit. I've tried to dry fit before gluing and working out a process to follow. Definitely not an easy build!
I bought the kit and all the accessories for £30, when I checked on Sarik it would cost £280 so can't complain, its just taking ages to complete. Made a lot of progress these past few weeks.
|Thread: On TV tonight....|
Edited By Russ P on 06/03/2020 13:24:05
Edited By Russ P on 06/03/2020 13:25:05
|Thread: Shipping Lipos to Australia|
I have just received a lipo from Hobbyking posted from Hong Kong using FedEx, the paper work included a declaration of dangerous goods which stated that they were to travel on cargo aircraft only.
Don't know the cost as it was a replacement for a faulty lipo and they paid.
Would think that if you have to send them separately from your other belongings the cost would be prohibitive, buying new in Australia might be cheaper and easier.
|Thread: Forum members' new models: Let's see them.|
Having followed Danny Fenton's build blog of the Seagull Chipmunk I had to have one. After a 3 month wait whilst my order made its way from Vietnam mines ready for its maiden. Its a superb ARTF!
|Thread: Seagull 80" DH Chipmunk|
Thanks. I'm really looking forward to flying her.
I've followed your blog and was impressed with the Chipmunk so I ordered one. 3 months later I've finally received one.
Although the instructions are easy to follow, I have a question which I hope you can help with, how do you wire the landing lights. I've enlarged you photos but still can't see how you did it.
|Thread: Using separate battery for servos and motor and how to connect them to Rx|
Thanks for the replies.
How do I connect a Lipo for the motor and a Life to power the servos to the rx.
|Thread: Down thrust?|
Thanks I'll chech out the points raised. Plenty to think about.
I've built a Junior 60 with 2 channels, after a few of flights resulting in crashes I am looking for some advice.
Take off is fine, but after the climb out the model continually loops until it hits the ground! On the one occasion where I was able to close the throttle at the right moment the model glided to a perfect landing, all be it a long way a way.
I assumed that the c of g is correct due to the glide being ok, and adjusted the thrust line to give a couple of washers down thrust. But it still looped under power
How much down thrust is safe, if indeed that is the issue.
|Thread: Making wheels|
That's a great help, thank you all.
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