Here is a list of all the postings Angus Cargill has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Tony Nijhuis 63" Spit|
myself and another club member, Jack have started the full kit/retracts option. We are considering glasscloth and hardglaze floor varnish (cos its water based) however the threads seem to say that the solarfilm option works well,. so this option is back on the table. we are both using thunder tiger 75's FS possibly a tad over powered but genuine new 60s' seem hard to come by. We are not adding wash-out as per plan (but against scale, the real one had a couple of degrees) SO, Tony, if your listening our trust is in you!
Typically , I got the 'kit' which had warped wing ribs and the fuselage sides were missing the cockpit cutouts also the edges were well off being straight . the instructions for the side thrust were wrong --------its OK ,I always get these ones. i have learned to work around these difficulties. its comming together OK though now---I think.
I am still happy with the kit, what a great designer I am hoping to try the hurricane next----but Tony designs faster than i can build! ----keep them comming Tony i just love to drool over them.
|Thread: West Wings Pinto|
Yes I suppose we all want more , in the not so distant past ,even using NimH 100 plus watts /pound was not so easy to achieve . I am not sure what has been the biggest enabler , modern brushless motors or Li-pos . One thing for sure i am going to have upgrade to Li-po or Li-ion to tap into the likes of the fan trainer or that superb Mig 25.
Hi Eric---------i am sure i have read some articles by yourself. Yes you are correct in all that you say, I just missed the trick. Especially with the wing sheeting, thing is It was on my mind all the way through, the wing never looked 'secure' but i went with the plan. Older and wiser.
As Jon has noticed with the Toucan though, both models do require just a tad more experience than you might believe on first look.
Can't complain about the flying properties, and all on 55Watts .
I have a copy of the original guide to powering electric models and it quoted 50-60watts /pound for mild aero's -------have you noticed that the advice now is 100watts plus !!!!?? with 200watts /pound not unusual. i know that this is easy to achieve these days but surely the airframes are not becomming heavier. Or is it just you can have more ergo you need more.
I will dig out my old steam driven 4.5 M camera and see if i can post a photo.
I am a 'dabbler' ,like a kid in a toyshop, try everything. My interests span all of aeromodelling as such i am a master at nothing ,but enjoy it all.
i have been seriously modelling for some 25years and joined Glenrothes aero modelling club in about 1978. I hold a 'silver' in fixed wing RC although i am no aerobat. I do a fair bit of training within the club and with the ATC which although time consumming is rewarding. I have tried control line, slope soaring, a tad of thermal soaring, pylon racing and enjoyed it all.
My project at the moment is a Tony Nijhous 62 spit (how does he do it all ,?? ) I have always wanted a spit but never felt that i could do one justice until now. My resources are limited so i tend to build from plans (slowly) I favour small electrics as I can see a result in a reasonable time.
I, have always appreciated the design talent which is in the hobby and love the free plans . Even the ones i do not intend to build I keep to pore over , like any classic they are an art form. Seems that designers come in spates, with some real greats like Boddington etc. The work of the guys active at the moment is just stunning. Full of inovation and sheer skill. Tony Nijhous must be right up there with the best, but we also have Nigel hawes, Alex whittaker, Peter miller and many others all doing something slightly different, how lucky are we? what a great hobby.
I have just finnished and test flown said Pinto. Mine is finished in standard 'mustang' type colours, silver/yellow/red. Finding american decals was a nightmare. I eventually drew them out, coloured them in with felt-tips and then scanned and printed onto sticky back paper. I do have AUTOCAD LT--------just need about three months of training to use it!.
The model is powered by a 2914 thunder tiger outrunner and an old fashioned NiMH 8cell 1100 pack. It feels light and flies very well. it is fast with a 7X6 , will loop from level although not large loops , rolls are axial and smooth. The pack and motor are cool which suggests i am not pulling enough power from the batteries( I am getting a wattmeter for birthday) . I will try a 8X4 which should improve the aeros dramatically.
POINTS TO WATCH: The kit was designed by an old expert and as such some of the techniques i found to be hard to get right, e.g. Rolling sheet balsa especially onto the hatch area which has no support during building. The tail area sheeting just does not work, better using soft block. BEWARE the wing ribs, the cutouts on mine were just too tight and they are so delicate that working on them can cause breakages and lots of cursing. there is no clue as to how to fix the hatch. I used two 3 amp chock block connectors released from there plastic cover and expoxied onto each side of the fuselage. two short pieces of w ire were then expoxied onto the hatch when the hatch is closed you just tighten the two screws. I tried the review mthod of using just one aileron servo and this does work well,although some mods are required. Watch the wings for warps after covering! easy to put right with heat gun though.
Like you ,I lusted after one and some years ago bought one of the ARTF kits from ripmax. IT WAS A HEARTACHE.
Mine now does fly well BUT with high tech Typhoon 15 brushless outrunner and 2200 10 cell NiMH pack.-------and this is minimum to get it to fly well. ALL of the reviewers who sang its praises NEVER actually tried it with the stated mimimum (speed 600 and 7cell nicad.) trust me, it does not work. With only 42 inches of low drag wing its flying speed with nearly a pound and a half of batteries and motor is close to its stall speed and you will need a javelin thrower to launch it------ask me how I know this. after several re-bulids (a pound of batteries tends to break models on anything but perfect landings) Anyway the secret of success is modern batteries and motors. Mine now works fine but my colleagues with Li-polys is so much better.
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