Here is a list of all the postings gangster has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Benefits of the lockdown|
I made the descision to get my MOT 2 months early. Yes it cost me about £700 plus a service to correct the worn track control arms plus the new set of tyres that I had just bought to get it safe on a car the I will probably change in the new year but that beats it getting worse in the next 6 months and killing someone. I really would not like a 6 month extension on my mot A year is long enough Having said that the car had a service at the same time and that picked up the issue prior to them mot ing it.
|Thread: Returning to the hobby|
In over 40 years of rc flying I have never had any brand loyalty. I have bought my radios based on the looks, feel and functionality of the TX. In that time I have had Scratch built, kit built , Skyleader, Sanwa, Hitec, Jr and Spektrum.
Which was the best? None was better than the other. On each occaission when I went to buy a set of radio I preferred a different make. I have crashed hundreds of times but Never due to any radio related issues with the exceptions of battery and switch related issues. The last time I bought radio I Could not make my mind up between Futaba and Spektrum so bought both. Futaba T8j and Spektrum DX8. I must admit I preferred the Spekky in many ways the Futaba looked and felt cheap and tacky. But 7 years down the line both sets of radio have performed impeccably
|Thread: Light Relief|
And don’t forget You Tube streams all those great comedy’s that would nut be pc these days but were harmless fun. Benny Hill, Ain’t Half hot mum, Alf Garnet , Mind your language. Monty Python etc etc They are all there
|Thread: NEW POLL - Has home isolation prompted you to start trad' building?|
No must not start anything new. I have got a Flair SE5 that has been on the go since 2015 about ready for coveringA lighting pattern ship project that has been on the go for 3 years a Zulu that is 90% done but is driving me crazy cos I cannot get the front screen right. A very old and tired Mick Reeves spit 63 that needs a refurb. An old faithful hack that could do with some tic. (Very little paint left on the fus and I have recently acquired an old fus and wings for an artf chipmunk that needs repair and tail feathers making. Spending time in garden at the moment though.
|Thread: Clevis, Thead, Crimp, Glue or Solder|
Also be careful of anything American eg Sullivan or great planes. They use imperial threads
Bear in mind that the 2mm threaded rods that you buy from the model shop vary in diameter. Sure they all/ most fit a 2mm crevice or nut but the rod diameter varies. Not all threads are cut I’m the way you or I might do. I needed some threaded both ends for interplane struts and aeleron coupling. Had a good rummage round the odds box to find some that I could thread
|Thread: metal on metal interference|
Another factor is that with the older ppm systems there was no way the receiver could differentiate between a burst of interference and a valid signal. A digital system ignores everything that is not a valid signal PCM was a step forward but not the overall panacea that some people thought it should be. Just because there were less glitches did not mean there was not a noise or interfering signal. (Papering over cracks comes to mind. Moving forward 2.4 gives the further advantages as described by Peter above. So many modellers however are still thinking in the old money. We need to remember that with digital television we can watch several different programs on the same channel
Paul. DJT modules seem to vary widely in price. Some are frankly crazy. I believe T9 Hobbysports are one of the official suppliers and also one of the cheapest sources as well. They of course will be able to advise on receivers too
Great news the batteries are out. Still replace or give a good test. As far as compatibility you will need a module that is compatible with the transmitter and a receiver that is compatible with that module. I use the frsky djt module and v8fr 2 receivers Others may be able to recommend other makes
Lovely set of gear the pcm9x and you can get receivers and crystals for next to nothing. I used mine on 35 up until last year I agonised whether to convert or not and finally decided to go for it for the simple reason I might wish to do so and realised the modules cannot be available for ever. I bought the FRsky
djt module Am still very happy with it with the added bonus that it’s easier to carry out to the field with out worrying about keeping the prop and aerial apart.
Safety police. Yes I know!
I also Suggest you do it while the DJT modules are still available. As already mentioned change the batteries check for black wire and look carefully at the switch. Even though the quality of the pcm9x is way better than any equivalent you can buy today those switch’s are crap quality and like others prone to corrosdion
|Thread: Fuels Paradise|
I have been using duraglo since it first came out. That started having received a long list of wiggings from Mr Super Tigre ( was it Mick Wilshere?). Older modellers will know what a I mean about one of his telling stories off.
About 6 on the list was that I should not run it on synthetic or castor alone. But should buy a gallon of each from MT and mix them. He called it Tigre mix. I rang MT and was advised that they were just about to market the same stuff when the labels were printed. Hence the birth of Duraglo. Took a lot of convincing of the lms proprietor to convince him the stuff existed
|Thread: Are binding plugs all the same??|
Yes nothing more than a straight loop. On FRSky it’s a pretty standard bit or kit used on all sorts of things ie computer main boards On Orange or Spektrum you can make a replacement out of old servo leads. So for either no panic if you lose them. You don’t need to try to order replacements from makers
|Thread: power for remote container.|
Yea go with the boat theme this is a common situation and regulators are readily available
|Thread: Vintage crystals|
Guys I am having a sort out long horded treasures, stalled projects and ancient old favorite models.
So before I throw a couple of irreplaceble items I will offer them free to modellers of a vintage persuasion
Pr Skyleader Red AM crystals
2 prs Skyleader FM crystals Red and red/brown
If the old memory serves me Its the tx crystal that varys between AM and FM to get sufficient deviation
2 Pairs Sanwa crystals These for the custom/ black custom and also I believe the funny green one Sanwa compatability was a mystery to me. I cannot help thinking it was a mystery to Sanwa as well.
Free to a good home who can use them keeping the old kit going PM if you want em
|Thread: Modes 1 or 2|
Jeff don’t worry about taking the lid off this can of worms. I don’t think it has ever had a lid. I have just realised how old this thread is as well. It was surprisingly short for this particular subject
This has been a hot debating point for decades. I was taught in mode 1 and it has worked for me for over 40 years although I am only one of two in the club.
if you are just starting out go with the teacher. Certainly whichever mode you use stick it. If you start with a rudder and no aeleron model put the rudder on the right stick ie keep your primary turn/bank control in the same place. Also go with stick to top of box to increase engine revs and stick to top to dive.
From what is available I would suggest mode 2 is the main one in this country. Virtually every new and second hand tx I have bought has been on mode 2 and I have had to convert, usually not a problem and try and find a cheap indoor helicopter in mode 1. I do fly my Lidl Jamara heli on mode 2 but that flies itself anyway
As for the hand launch issue we’ll after a particularly scruff launch I commenter to my mate “ it’s a problem on mode 1 I had to find me aelerons a bit quick” Hi answer which made me feel a prat was. “ well on mode 1 you ain’t got the Ele either”. Good point
Ss for the old chestnut about full size practice. Come off it what has that got to do with standing in a field holding a box
Edited By gangster on 14/02/2020 09:07:53
|Thread: Low voltage lipo, how to charge.|
Try to gently bring the Lipo back up suggest switching the charger to nimh and charge a low current for a few minutes Then try to charge as normal
|Thread: On a lighter note|
A great nostalgic thread for old modellers. Over the years, particularly in my younger days , I have driven a number of real dogs often with vital parts rusted away or clapped out But one car,albeit only a few years old and in perfect working condition stands out as the only car I have been scared to drive.
|Thread: Traditional build that can use my 3S 2200 batteries|
|Thread: battery c rating|
The moral of the story is to measure the current if you change anyway especially the prop. Also we must realise that so much of this kit is cheap. Do not run it to the limit. Allow yourself 10% headroom when buying the kit including the battery’s. ie if you anticipate 40 amp current draw fit a 50 amp esc. The C rating of the battery’s are also the figment of the manufacturer’s imagination in some cases, we at least according to folklore
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