Here is a list of all the postings gangster has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
ah I can smell that Paxolin being cut as I read this post. More memories
|Thread: Which was the best decade for the hobby?|
Cubab8. I can assure you that replacing the parafin with white spirit is easily as messy and smelly
Sonny you ask if the diesels are more reliable than Glow or petrol. I don’t think any type is more or less reliable. Although some of the old diesels were so variable some barely ran at all In recent decades all engines have been good. I think It’s more a case of suitability for RC use. Please someone correct me if I am wrong but I wonder if vibration and poor throttling cause the diesel to not be the engine of choice for RC. Now can someone correct me if I am wrong but didnt Irvine produce a 40 sized diesel? Or has the old memory misfired
|Thread: Converting old kit to save buying new|
Nothing has changed in the last few decades with regards suitability of the Radio gear with regards the normal sport model. 20 year old gear would be just as suitable as it was. Modellers are still flying their favourite old radios from the last couple of decades. In many cases the build quality was better in the past The big question is how well had it survived storage and as already mentioned was the battery left in black lead corrosion can also effect pcbs and switches. As already stated yes some can be converted to 2.4 using FRSky modules which are real cheap to buy as are the receivers but are very good indeed. I guess the question on everybody’s mind is what TX is it I use old gear on my glow models but o have recently converted it to 2.4 for two reasons one is it’s easier to carry a running ic plane to the strip ( this is not an invitation to wake up the self appointed safety police) secondly I don’t believe the frisky modules will be available for ever and I might regret missing the opportunity I intend to keep that old TX for the foreseeable future it’s way better than anything available in that market position made today
|Thread: Whatever Happened To....|
Thanks for that fascinating and informative post Dave I always wondered what happened to all those great designs after Trueline packed up but of course I realise that was after your time with them. Nothing wrong with those tapered wings on the Custom Executive. It was the model that really got me flying. Having trashed my Senior executive I went onto a veron super robot after several repairs it was getting heavier and heavier and I was using more epoxy than fuel Something had to be done I bought a Custom executive took myself to the clubs second flying site where few people ever went and flew that thing every night for a week After which I returned to the main field feeling like a competent flyer
|Thread: How to set flaps on a Futaba 10J Transmitter|
I have always thought that Futaba deserved a good slapping for the battery’s on the 6j and 8j but it sounds like the 10 is not much better. When I bought a 6 j together with what I was told was the genuine rechargeable pack from a reputable dealer I was told that to fit it I had Tom ululate the battery box lid. Shortly afterwards I sold it and bought an 8j and discovered the battery pack was no more than a TX pack with no other options. This was in total contrast the the Spektrum DX8 which had the optional lipo with the ability to charge it and only needing charging every leap year. As has possibly been already suggested check that the alarm is in fact set to 4 cells Unfortunately the manual of the 6 and 8 is so vague on this point mixing up dry cells with the lower voltage rechargeable. Having said that my 8j runs for ages on a standard rx pack
|Thread: What would be a good Watt Meter to buy?|
Yes thats the one I have got I am sure it came with a separate balance board, that is certainly how I use it Great meter does everything I want
The watt meter I use is a three button eBay cheaply which has given good and fairly accurate service for 6 year. Bearing in mind it cannot last for ever I have been looking round for a replacement. It’s a real Swiss Army knife measuring battery and individual cell voltage. This is perfect current for set up and voltage down the field to tell me % left and cell performance. Many of those advertised at present do not appear to have a balance board to look at the cells. In answer to the OP I would recommend one that does all those things
|Thread: Which was the best decade for the hobby?|
Wow Sonny what a great subject for debate so many variables there, I guess looking at a recent survey many of us are of a certain age and can remember the last 5 or 6 decades, however probably with dewy eyed nostalgia.
Weather, nah it was no better or worse its just that many of us would fly in any weather, age has brought wisdom or softness,
Radio reliability? Well by the late 70s most radios were pretty reliable the rubbish fell by the wayside. Until the beginning of the 80s we only had 6 channels to share, and although the newer radios had better selectivity you could still only really 6 as there might be someone with you who could not cope with the intermediate channels. The big bogey man was CB but to be honest I really dont believe CB interference could cause poor installations , duff or flat batterys, black lead corrossion or the linkage coming off.. We are still blaming interference today.
The 80s saw FM, more selective receivers and 20 channels to use, the kit was probably as reliable as anything today, in fact the 80s and 90s probably gave us the best radio we have had, now even the premium makes are tacky comp[red to them. But we must, having said that think of cost, a servo cost a working man nearly a weeks net pay, I smile when I hear someone describe a super duper digital servo as expensive, er no its not. Its way less in real terms than say a Futaba 16 or Skyleader SRC1 was. Same with the radio. we conside a £1000 radio ad expensive, yet a set of Futaba M series was well over £200 when the cover price of the RCME was 45p
An OS or HP 40 was well over £40 and until the fiasco of 2008 we could still buy a good 40 for the same price, still only doubled yet RPI has gone up many times more.
In the 80s there was fabulous range of kits to go at , albeit of crap quality, I recal being shown the first Pilot kit and comparing it with the stuff we bought roughly hacked out of unsuitable wood but every town had a well stocked LMS.
As someone also said there are far more rule regulations now and flying sites harder to find.
So its been a good hobby one way or another for the last half century.
Great question I look forward to the varied answers. What do I miss? building my own radio from Micron Kits or RCME articles.
|Thread: WOT 4 Servo Query|
Like the man said. What Don said. You will not go far wrong with a standard 45 g servo. Something like Futaba 148 3001 3003 or equiv Hitec hs 422 Hs311 etc. £10 will get you a suitable servi
Edited By gangster on 03/02/2019 06:37:19
not totally convinced that the esc is guilty beyond doubt. You do appear to have been pushing what in all honesty is really a cheap Chinese esc to and beyond the limit. I would play safe and use an 80 amp esc. The max current could be less in the air than on the bench but I would use that as a safety zone rather than relying on that. Cooling is also a factor. Personally I might keep that esc for say a 25 size model
|Thread: Acrowot MK2 ARTF.|
Sonny I assume from the title that you are talking about the artf. If it is the “artb” (balsa kit) I might be able to help you but won’t get a chance to look till next week. Pm me mid week if it is what you want. Not sure there would be a template for the artf one
Edited to remove duplicate post
Edited By gangster on 25/01/2019 17:00:47
I am not sure about why you think the control surfaces were in spin mode. The force or the crash could have left them anywhere. My money is also on power . We must not think for one minute that the ratings quoted on the power train components are safe. I allow at least 20% headroom. They are not necessarily describing the items wrong. But just not the way we expect them to mean. Also interference or make of radio should always be put very last as the possible cause of a crashing if you want to be getting near the real reason. As one who has been there I do feel for you it’s never nice to see it happen to anyone I hope you have not scrapped the model though you or someone else will get the inclination to repair it sometime
|Thread: PVA and Balsa sawdust.|
I have used it but not sure how well it sands. I have also used wood dust and cyano this works well but can be very hard
|Thread: Fried battery|
I agree with Dave
|Thread: Inwoods and DPD|
Whilst not totally sure of the connections I am impressed with the way DPD seem to communicate with their customers. I ordered an aerial via an eBay supplier to be delivered via Argos in the local Sainsbury’s. I got an email from DPD giving the time it would be delivered . However shortly after that time I got an email from DPD with a picture of Sainsbury’s back gate saying unable to deliver Strange even deep in rural Lincolnshire Sainsbugs are open at 10.30 AM. While I was contemplating my next move I got a call from the supplier that DPD had contacted them and straight after a call from DPD. Another call from the supplier and another from DOD confirmed they had contacted Sainsbury’s and it would be dropped off there in a few hours. Seems Argos refused it as at 2.3 M long it broke the size rules. Top marks to DPD for communication with both me and the supplier and for problem solving. I am sure your order will be fine
|Thread: Which Watt Meter|
So in a nutshell Buy a Wattmeter as they are called for this purpose, the cheap 3 button ones are working well for most of us. Do not exceed the max current. Buy a few sizes of prop as well around the chosen range .Prop size is probably as significant as anything else in this business
Edited By gangster on 21/01/2019 09:13:04
wattage. ?? No such measurement
Wingman. I am not totally sure it is too far off topic. The guy wants a watt meter which in my opinion on is vital if you are to choose your own power train for a model. Some basic meaning of what you are measuring must help what does not help is waffling about advanced theory to put the everyday modeller off for life
So let’s keep it simple for the average sub kW motor in an average model
Max amps is the main decider . If you draw more than the maker says you deserve smoke . Ignoring efficiency back emf etc keeping the maths simple .decide the power you want for the model ,choose a motor of that power then divide that power by the voltage If that figure comes to more than the max current either look for a bigger motor or goes for a battery of more cells (within the voltage spec of the motor) Then look at prop size and follow the makers recommended range If that is way too small for the model in question you want a motor of lower kv ie 1000 not 1500 etc Do not however push the motor to max current and go for the next size up of esc doing that allows for the fact that we are simplifying the maths to basics and that the manufacturer is pushing his spec too hard finally downy run on the ground too long it will draw less in the air (back emf again)
Edited By gangster on 20/01/2019 14:50:42
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