Here is a list of all the postings gangster has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: MFA Power Panel|
If it’s the old mFA with the rotary switch is is a simple beast. Nice panel though using dropper resistors. I would expect to see 12 volts on the plug socket without a load. Maybe test with something like a sidelight bulb if you do not wish to risk a plug. They are nice no nonsense panels
Edited By gangster on 01/08/2020 16:01:19
|Thread: Carb tuning|
Please let’s not have the old nose up or not debate again. Whilst I have never owned an MDS I agree it is well understood that the earlier carbs had issue.
i have to agree about the post that suggests that an OS 60 was £500 plus and of course a basic set of Futaba would have been about £2.5k in real terms. I also think that the way things are going we could well go back to paying considerably more for everything
|Thread: nicad battery packs|
Yes just pretend they are nicad you really won’t notice much difference and continue to use the slow chargers that came with the radio. However be careful of the exorbitant capacity claims on some now you cannot get a quart in a pint pot. Just pretend that they are the old 500/600 that you had before and you will be fine
|Thread: Back after 11 years - need advice|
Electric or IC. You will get strong recommendations for both on here. I suggest that if you join a club you will see what the others are using. You will not go far wrong with either a wot4 or an acrowot. Whether or no you go for the foam or built up is your choice but going by your previous experience you may prefer the built up. I have had a kit built acrowot and now have an artf. Just bear in mind the initiall cost if you decide to go electric. An electric acrowot will require at a guess 700 watts minimum. To get that you will need at a minimum a 60 amp esc and 4s 3300 batteries. Just to add a bit more pain you will need at least 2 batteries and that will only give you 2 flights, unless you field charge and that takes an hour.
cost about the same as 2 gallons of 5%
it’s a big descision so don’t let people on here bully you by saying that their favourite is the only way to go
As for radio There is nothing wrong with 35 MHz it’s not obsolete and is probably no less safe than 2.4 especially now that fewer are using 35 so there will be less danger of someone switching on . Stored properly there should be nothing wrong with the old JR and probably better built than anything you can buy today just make sure the batteries are fine and there is no black lead corrosion
Anoth model to check out is the seagull challenger nice and light if you do decide on electric and a dream flier Welcome back
|Thread: field force 6 battery life|
No moving the controls will have no effect on the transmitters power requirements. It does however have a significant effect on the receive battery. You will need to carefully check that now. If you are using the switch on the receive pack I suggest you replace that. Sadly regardless of make they are of poor quality and could cause problems
|Thread: Skyleader slider servos, max voltage, ok to use or what replacement?|
They are lovely servos. The rotary output planes were rubbish so I always used mine in
linear mode. As for voltage I would not risk 6 volts, why would you? There is still an old wife’s tail out there that seems to suggest that all Spektrum receivers must be run on 6 volts. Surely this dates back over a decade to one or two DSM2 receivers that took a few seconds to recover from a volt drop caused by overload or poor installation. I have used Spektrum for 7 years and every receiver I have tested does not exhibit this. If you must use 6 volts and would like to use your src1 servos why not get a 5 volt bec or regulator and isolate the red leads from the rx. Ie piggle the red lead out of the plug and common them. As for the dry battery argument I don’t believe Skyleader ever offered a dry batter option in that era. In addition 6 volts from a dry battery will be fine with a Futaba 128 servo but 6 volts from nicad will fry one. This bears out a previous comment
|Thread: Junior 60 Cowl|
As promised I have bumped this up for the modeller who was asking about kits. This was built from the BB electric kit however I cannot see for the life of me the difference. I have used a 1/4 ply gas law bulkhead across the engine bearers. Tatty as you see but sound this model is for sale
|Thread: Junior 60 Kitset|
I have the BB version. Lovely model. No need to worry if you cannot get the electric version the ic will suit electric as already stated. Have a search on this very forum I posted some pictures of mine a couple of weeks ago I will try to bump it up
|Thread: Diesel anybody?|
Oh that smell of diesel must have the same effect on many modellers of a certain age. The chuck and duck at the nationals is made even more special with that aroma.Years ago my friend and I flew control line at work We mixed our own diesel. Funny stuff because yours truly had a brain flip and bought Castrol R instead of M. Stained everything yellow. Ether was no problem and we had a litre of the stuff. One spring nice day we decided to have a fly so mixed some fuel oil no problem ether no problem but we had no paraffin. We did find a five gallon can of white spirit. Yes it worked well but my AM15 was inclined to run in bursts. Makes control line flying very interesting. We stuck however with the white spirit mix with castrol r
Edited By gangster on 06/07/2020 08:30:06
|Thread: Aurora 9x|
I can remember the days when Hitec was regarded as cheap Chinese I took a while for us to realise the quality of the stuff was as good or probably better than the mainstream Japanese stuff
|Thread: Seagull Challenger - First kit Build - First IC|
Maybe another investment would be a SLEC fuselage jig They are not expensive. Removes any concern of a banana fuselage and keeps everything tight in place while the glue dries
|Thread: Is the hobby dying/dead|
Surely the whole rule/ constitution/ A certified business is all part and parcel of the whole change we are lamenting in this thread. We would all love to wind the clock back 30 or 40 years.
Sadly we live in a much worse world which revolves round a blame/ compensation culture which is risk averse everything is someone else’s fault On top of this flying sites get harder to find as building encroaches and these houses are occupied by less tolerant people which we as a nation are becoming
organisations like the BMFA and club officer need to cover their backs This results in more and more rules and risk assessment covering risks so slight. Darwin was wrong nobody is stupid someone else must be to blame
This could be the final nail in this and other hobbies. Clubs will cease to exist as the “old farts “ who run them retire and no-one will be prepared to step up to the plate
|Thread: Junior 60 Cowl|
Edited By gangster on 24/06/2020 15:38:46
Basically I have built an open battery box in the first half of the cabin and the batter slides in from the front under the cowl. The motor screws onto an upright 1/4 ply plate fitted between the bearers
Ok SW I will send you some pictures of how I did the front of my J60. Just need to remember how to do it
|Thread: Is the hobby dying/dead|
Most points raised here are probably valid reasons for the change. Something that had gone through my mind over recent years is lack of exposure to the hobby. How do people know it exists and how do they start? Up til about 20 or30 years ago every town however small appeared to have either a model shop or a sports and hobbies shop with a modelling section I can think of three smallish towns round here that had two.We shopped in the towns in those days. How many of us were hooked by looking in the shop window etc. So how does the “man or boy in the street get his introduction. How many of us started spending our pocket money on Kiel Kraft kits in the local sports shop hardware store bike shop etc etc.
Want the latest issue of RCM&E? Use our magazine locator link to find your nearest stockist!