Here is a list of all the postings gangster has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Which fuel and glow plug advice needed!|
Stephen. With respect You have said a few things in your posts that have rung Alarm bells with experienced modellers on this forum.
you have got two good trainers there and two engines that, if they are in good nick are as good an engine as you can buy anywhere. Please don't destroy them. I have used Irvines from the very first Irvine 40. That was not a great motor but they soon made a mk11 and never looked back
please make no mistake , I really don't think it is possible to teach yourself on those trainers particularly if they are not trimmed by an experienced pilot. If you have to go alone try a Bixler or Easystar or something similar.
they are your best chance but even then the transition to those glow trainers is a big one, and even bigger if overpowered and that 53 must be way way ott, 46 is plenty you will need loads of training flights with an instructor before you can safely take off and land
please do not savage them with a drill totally ott and wholly unnecessary I would even suggest you keep the starter out of the way as well if you are not familiar with the engines you stand every chance of destroying them either too wet or too dry
Those engines will start first flick with a hand start ,probably safest using a chicken stick,and hand starting them will allow you to get the feel of setting up an engine,
discouraging words maybe but we are only advising from the experience of having made mistakes and watching others make them. And please restrain the model when running the motor. Do not underestimate the danger
|Thread: While I was away...|
James. You have listed a mouth watering set of kit. It is no more useless than it was in the 90s. That 388 is a cracking set of kit and you would pay a serious amount of money to get anything that has the feel of quality that it gives. I will put my tin hat on now and suggest you probably couldn't get a better set of gear these days. 35 MHz isn't obsolete in fact it has come into its own as so many people are on 2.4 so no waiting for the peg also less chance of switch on and shoot down. Those engines are fine too especially that Saito nothing could beat that either. Just be noise aware sites are more sensitive and some of the old engines with standard silencers are not acceptable on some sites
As far as digital servos are concerned, they are not compulsory, nothing has changed with your old ones they will still work as well as they did back in the day and will be comparable with most if not all modern receivers
If you want to go to 2.4 then the suggestion of using an Frsky module in your 388 as already suggested by a previous member is a good plan and gives best of both worlds. OldFashioned JR quality but on 2.4 and Frsky is very highly respected don't be put off by the cheap price seems good value and so reliable.
if you are going to follow the electric trend don't try to eat the whole elephant of understanding it in one go. Choose your model and speak to a reputable supplier like BRC they will recommend and supply a suitable power train set up.
You have listed some of my all time favourite models. Gangster,Trueline Tiger,Super60. In fact I am Flying a Super 60, building a Gangster 63 lite and still have the Tiger plan which I look at with great nostalgia and one day will build. Never had a Kadet but flew one a few times. Nice model.
Welcome back mate but don't imagine that retirement will give you endless flying time, well that's what I thought but didn't seem to work.
|Thread: Keeping LiPos in a rented garage|
Thanks Phill for that comprehensive explanation on the effect off different temperatures on the lipos all very valid
i do think we are talking extremes here which is not what I meant. With the lipos in their safety bag and the box in a hot car I would expect them to stay at a safe temperature and not get too cold or indeed too hot. Yes perhaps the ice packs might be ott but surely an insulated picnic box plus safe bag is going to keep them at a safe temperature particularly if in the boot or covered up
I am however concerned what shape the model will be in if it had remained in a hot car all day
Might sound daft but why not get a cool box and some ice packs. The lipos in their lipo safety bags can go in there in your car safely cool all day And the bonus us your tea,food and drink can go in too. So come flying time your lipos are safe and your salad sarnies and cans of fanta are nice cool and fresh for that balmy summer evening flight. Also bear in mind that managed properly very very few people have lipo problems bearing in mind the number in use by modellers these days
|Thread: Headlamp change ... take the wheel off of course!|
Allan. Early 80s Astras were another example of having little doors in the wheel arch guards
Hands up who remembers sealed beam units. Now they were a rip off
Ok faith restored in Halfords. But!, are we talking about the branches that have proper service bays as well as those who send out whoever is available to the shopping centre car park. As they as good?
Certainly not limited to the KA avta. When I was at work the process to get bulbs changes,even simple ones like rear likes was to call the AA The poor fellow ended up looking at two on line manuals and making a couple of phone calls before embarking on the task which involved serious dismantling go the vehicle. Was it a complex,expensive specialised machine.? No it was a Corsa. If manufactures are going to make changing bulbs so impossible they should fit bulbs that last longer than a year
Another AA man gave up changing a sidelight bulb on a Vauxhall combo
. I also spoke to a guy the other day who paid £160 for a bulb change on a Lexus
Not sure about having a spotty youth at Halfords do it though.
|Thread: BMFA Insurance|
£5 a year is incredible. I don't suppose many other clubs can match that. Even so I don't suppose it is a great imposition to members to pay an additional penny a week to cover the postage of the Bmfa cards
if they won't pay another 50p a year to make the membership secretary's job easier they don't deserve his services. Our annual fees are just a bit less than Cuban8 and we just break even. Cheaper than many clubs pay and cheap to fly off a 4 acre close mown field with club house
Admin costs/postage are surely a necessary factor of running a club and should be of part and parcel of the membership fees.
It always amazes me that modellers will spend a fortune on all sorts of unnecessary bling yet expect the most important item,the field, to cost nothing and expect the committee to provide it as cheaply as possible.
Regardless of the financial status of the member the cost of the facilities should come first and then whatever they choose to fly, and whatever they choose to power it and control it with should tailored to budget
Having said that I as treasurer have worked hard to drive costs down and have tried to move as much communication to email as possible, the aim is not just cost saving but to use the free communication to send out more info to the members and try to overcome to issue as previously mentioned whereby no one goes to meetings or attends the field . My aim is to send the BMFA out by post but every other communication by e-mail, there are still however a considerable number of our members who dont have the facility.
As for delivering by hand you must not overlook the considerable amount of modelling time you already give up to the members and most committee members in most clubs are always considerably out of pocket anyway with the free petrol, free phone calls ink paper etc etc they give their clubs.
So when someone turns up at the club and proudly shows off their £500 radio, their £300 engine or £40 pound servos, yet bleats about putting a fiver on the club fees it suggests one thing to me. They do not need that fancy kit as they are flying the wrong model for their budget and have their prioritys wrong.
No radio, engine, or model advert when extolling its great feature ever adds the most important feature of all
" Needs a few well maintained acres of land to work at all"
|Thread: Greatest model safety aid ever|
Cannot say I am very excited about the Loud audible devices the last thing you need when the battery has about died is some loud audio device sapping the last bit of energy that you require to land safely
Many years ago ( mid 80s) I purchased (and still have) a couple of on board battery checkers. Made/distributed by Flair these were simple two LED devices unlike the fancy multi led devices that every one else was buying. They did however have a major advantage over most every other on board volt meter
As well as the green light extinguishing and the red lighting at about 4.2volts it had a latching feature causing the red led to remain flashing even if the supply restored. Much is written on this forum and others about situations of possible brownout but this cheap simple device delivers the info/warning straight away it is also a totally independent arbiter and identifies voltage drop caused by faulty Rx,wiring,battery's, faulty or overworked servos etc etc
Over the years these have probably saved me a number of crashes. It definitely identified black lead corrosion on at least 1 switch harness and also warned me that my Rx was intermittently decking the supply. Only once was I misled by this baby !but the right way round) I did a low pass in the late evening with the sun low and glimpsed the red flash ,swift landing circuit only to find the flash was due to the low evening sun reflecting on the red anodised part of a Sanwa switch plate
So why were these never popular. Why is a similar device not offered from several sources? Why have I never seen one used by anyone else? Far simpler and easier than anything telemetry can offer and of course there was no telemetry until very recently.
|Thread: Flair Junior 60|
Thousands have been built and flown over the last 60 odd years. There is no need to change anything To overcome the climb on power On my jun 60 I have simply mixed in down elevator with throttle. No doubt that will have some purists wringing their hands but it works Bear in mind that it will not need much power most of the time and most of the higher throttle settings will be needed for climb anyway.
|Thread: Field charging without torching your car|
YepThat picture is exactly what I had in mind. Never seen the model in the car but the have seen the lipo sitting nect to the charger too often.
Wow that post certainly caused some excitement. And I should have added that I only use it for 3s and 4s and no more than 3amps
It always horrifies me the number of people who charge lipos on the field by connecting directly to the car battery and standing the lipo and charger on the engine or car battery .it is only a matter of time before this practice ends in tears . It would not be a major task to make up a 12 volt input extension lead a few feet long and get the charger away from the car.
if you have a white caravan socket on the back of your car there will be a permanent 12 volt high current supply. I have made up a lead using a caravan plug,fuse and interface plug to my charger charging then takes place at a safe distance from the car. I have been using this method and it works well for me
|Thread: 2 pole connector quick release|
I use a similar arrangement to connect my field charger to a range of power sources cigar lighter caravan socket. ,croc clips 4mm etc. for this I use normal crimp on bullet connectors from the car accessory shop. Connected in the same way as your charger lead it is impossible to reverse polarity. It is also possible that they might interface with your existing lead
|Thread: Help needed to build an on-board glow ignitor?|
Alas not. The battery voltage is around 1.2V and LEDs need a wee bit more than that!!
Quire right Steve I overlooked the simple fact that my glow driver was a switching device and was obviously pulsing a much higher voltage. I will get my coat!t
Phil am I overlooking something here is it not a simple case of battery microswitch with the led with a little series resistor across the plug . Admittedly that would be there all the time but I cannot see it as an issue. Where does my thinking fall down here?
|Thread: UKMail (alias iPost)|
Well credit where it is due. I ordered an item on line from a uk model supplier very late on Saturday evening. UKMAIL delivered it this morning. No one was in and they left it with a neighbour and put a card through the door. Perfick!
|Thread: Signal Loss with Spektrum?|
Plenty of unexplained glitches but I am certain that I have never lost a model due to Interference, loss of signal or TX or RX fault. Few due to servo or switch harness failure though.
I damaged a brand LMC Tucano due to a brand new Sanwa servo developing an intermittent fault . I Then damaged a Gangster 52 using the same model of servo with the same fault a few weeks later. Sods law dictated that they both had to be on aileron. Oh and Skyleader servos were fun too!
As you say Tim that is the nature of beast and I totally agree that you have hit the nail on the head in the last sentence
I also believe that whatever change of technology we have will not help and sometimes introduce its own issues think of your telly ( before they wound up the TX power) or digital radio a loss of signal or good burst of interference totally kills everything and it can be seconds before it restores. With the old analogue a poor signal resulted in poor reception with digital its all or nothing.
On an earlier post I quoted a rx fault I had that manifested itself in glitches but I am certain that would have wiped the link out totally with 2.4 kit and the failsafe would have been no help here.
Isnt it great to be free of the peg board or wainting for ever for the peg whilst someone fiddles with an errant engine or we wait for someone with a glider that can stay aloft for a fortnight
|Thread: 2.0.14 Now available for download.|
Robert I think the answer to your question is to go fly and enjoy yourself and change nothing.
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