Here is a list of all the postings gangster has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: A real beginner.|
Wow I gotta get me one of those. I must have admit I have never thought of the current in a car or boat. Had enough to worry about with planes. I assume the current in a plane drops off as it gets aloft and "unloads" and that is the safe way round
I cannot comment on the Buccaneer as I have no experience of it However I do fly both a Junior 60 and a Super 60. Both are electric conversions. My thoughts are don't try to over power these old ladies. As someone pointed out you cannot compare the power of the old timers to the newer engines. Having said that you are better off having more power available than you need and certainly don't skimp on the esc. My Junior 60takes off perfectly on about 200 watts. It does however have a power train that is good for 600 watts an Emax 2820 07 with a 60 amp esc. Using a 3s and 12x6 prop it gives about 400 watts Now for the controversial bit I have limited the throttle travel on the tax to 40 percent. I know the purists are wringing their hands and if I inadvertently recalibrate the esc it will go to full power. But that is no big deal. I did inadvertently put a 4s in and was none the wiser until I tried to charge it. What I am saying is if you use a watt meter and play with prop sizes battery sizes etc there is more flexibility than you know. I have the same power train in a super 60 and use a 4s and run at about 400 watts( a 3s would do just as we'll but at a higher but still acceptable current. So go plenty large give yourself some headroom but do not over power Oh and country boy I think it's you who said you are from Bourne PM me if you want to see these models I am also in Bourne
|Thread: What did you learn with?|
All this nostalgia brings back memories. Be careful how you define things I recall with amusement how a self proclaimed "expert" was pontificating to a poor unfortunate newbie who had built an excellent and entirely suitable trainer. I listened with amusement while doing whatever needed doing to my model. The "experts" was telling him how unsuitable his model was and insisted that the ideal first model must be a three function high winger powered by a 20sized engine. At this point I interjected and said what like this? Pointing to my Boddo club 20 racer. Said club 20 perfectly matched his description but trainer it sure wasn't He shut up and walked off
Wow some of those old trainer names brought back some memories. But trainers? They were all pigs to fly and probably far too heavy My first trainer was a Trueline Executive built from the plan with a pair of second hand wings powered by an Enya 40 and guided by Micron PL7D AM. It was 3 function and in reflection probably the hardest thing I have ever had to fly it survived many a bottle of epoxy and was superceded by a Custom Executive which with ailerons was a dream to fly. Low wing models were considered only for seriously experienced flyers. When I built my first low winger t,a Fun Tiger what from an old Radio Moddler plan I found it even easier to fly. So I can only concludes that the established
route of training in the good old days was start with the most difficult model and "progress" to the easier ones. my next model was a Gangster 63 so we'll behaved and easy to fly. Some of the modern light and relatively cheap foam models really seem to be the answer though As for the previously mentioned attractions of glow models. Oily ,smelly ,cut fingers,dead stick landings, kneeling on wet grass etcfor hours I loved it for about 35 years, Now am flying electric and cannot bring myself to go back to it,it worries me what is wrong with me? And another thing what ever happened to all those lovely Trueline designs Corsair tiger etc etc with the retro thing it would be good to see them again ,
Edited By gangster on 22/09/2014 10:27:23
Edited By gangster on 22/09/2014 10:28:17
|Thread: Ben Buckle Super 60|
Barry. Unless I have missed it nothing has been mentioned with regards battery position and CofG. Having been very successful with electrifying a Junior 60 I then went onto building the low wing super60 and have discovered that it's way too nose heavy with a 3s or a 4s in front of the leading edge I have had to settle for making a battery box behind the leading edge and will have to put up with removing the wings to change the battery. At least it balances
without lead it is yet to fly but a friend has a high wing one with battery under the wing Emax 2820 07 4s pack and it has more than enough chuff. Flys perfectly
|Thread: Which model plane to buy?|
Hi Lucy. Interesting question which I am sure than if you asked a dozen modellers you would get 12 different answers. My answer would be to go for the Hitec Sky Scout. This comes out at your target price and is complete and ready to go with nothing else to buy. There is a danger that you could buy something and have to pay so much more for motor radio etc. the Sky Scout is robust easy and fun to fly and an ideal trainer. I have been flying for over 35 years and still get so much fun out of a very similar model ( Multiplex Easystar think it's the same model. )Check them on you tube
|Thread: Canadian Lancaster in the UK|
Adrian. Have you looked at the BBMF site. Having said that I am not sure that the total of 2xlanc displays adds up to 60. Maybe it is doing some solo stuff as well.
|Thread: Flair Junior 60|
Hi personally I would build as per plan. It's not a pilot racer so work on the principle that if it flares when you give it throttle you are overpowering it. Mine is built from the Ben Buclkle kit once aloft throttle right back and it is so lovely to fly. Even in strong wind. I have programmed in a throttle elevator mix so as the throttle is advanced a little down elevator is added. For level flight I have got a few degrees of down elevator. I have added a couple of ounces of lead to the nose. If electrc powered make sure the battery goes as far forward as possible which is easiest done with an open fronted battery box in the nose. Beautiful model to fly but please don't try to fly it fast. It will float forever just on tick over mine is electric powered but I wonder what the electric term for tick over is?
|Thread: Ben Buckle/Flair Fokker DV111 electric conversion|
I started a very old kit a few years ago and then put it on the shelf I am now inspired to continue. I wish to build it as electric and can find various references on the web that this has been done but can find no specific details. I believe Nigel Hawes did one which he featured in his column over several months. Has anyone got any advice please of can anyone advise which back issues contain the really important bit ie motor mounting and battery fitting Anywhere I can find pictures etc. Thanks. Gordon
|Thread: RCM&E Digital FM|
Thanks for that Phil. It was good to see the video certainly a fascinating project. Interesting option with regards the Hitec RF module, I had no idea they were available so cheaply. I don't however intend to go down that route for a couple of reasons, Firstly I would like to retain it in its original form, If I were to go down the RF module route I could be tempted with the RF sky 2.4 hack module. Secondly space in the case is at a premium as I have a full suite of Viking add on boards in there, I might be able to free up enough space by relocating the charge socket.
First job though after the RF changes is to sort out the sticks by locating some new springs and repairing or replacing the plastic plates they hang on, got a feeling that will not be easy at all
Thanks again for the interest and the insite into your project
Hi Gavin Wow that was a lightening fast reply. Thanks ever so much got it printed ok Cheers Gordon Thanks for your help as well Chris.
Has anyone got the 35 MHz conversion details for the transmitter and receive please. I believe it involve a couple of turns off of the oscillator coils and a capacitor change.
Although I probably wont fly this again I would like to restore it to working condition. It was a very good friend and I flew with it regularly for years. I put it back onto 27 years ago for a boat and want to put it back to 35 now
|Thread: JR Switch Reliability|
Over the years I have repaired a few older JR transmitters with either non functioning or even worse still intermittent power switches.
As well as being a very small switch JR have in their infinite wisdom used the switch to separate two positive supplies.. I believe one pole of the switch feeds the RF board and the other the logic believe this is so that the logic can be powered from the receive battery without powering the RF when using the DSC facility.
I have an old but good x-378 transmitter that, whilst showing no signs of a switch problem I would still like the security of using both poles of the switch. Since I never use and never will use DSC is there any other reason to stop me linking both poles of the switch
|Thread: Flair.Ben Buckle Fokker DV111|
Your input please. I am curently building this model from an old kit that had been in my possession for 15 years and its previous owner had it a similar amount of time.I am building it without dihedral with aelerons.
Being by nature a "heavy" builder, and flier for thta matter I am struck that the plan as designed is taking it right back to its free flight roots and could do with some modification for 4 channel RC flying. So before I get carried away with sheer webs sheeting etc has anyone built this for RC and what are your experiences and modifications. Also what motor did you use?
The benefit from your experiences of this model would be welcome please.
|Thread: Linear Servos|
Ok, so whatever happened to linear servos,? why are they no longer popular and readily available.
It cannot be size, the old Skyleader SRC1 were no bigger than a standard 148 type servo today, it cannot be cost either.
In my opinion they were perfect ,why have a rotary movement to create a straight movement.?
Your thoughts please
|Thread: The November Grand Prize Draw|
|Wow gotta try for this one|
|Thread: Whose still using kit from the old RCME plans|
Ah beehive trimmers, yea reckon I could lay my hands on a couple of those somewhen together with a few germanium pnps
Bob re the Micron DSP stage yea I added it to a very elderly Micron RX , and agree its as good as any commercial RX
Re the PL6 many moons since I have used a closed gimble stick, Skyleader clubman was the last one I had, but tell you what \i went all flash and bought the PL7D when it first came out, big mistake those open gimble sticks really were open and the rain got in, should have had a PL6.
Trying to remember but I recon I did the same as you with the cycler/charger
Just wondering who has build the electronic projects from way back. and are still using them
I have the battery checker still in use every flying trip,
the on board version in one of my models
the charger/cycler still used
and I used the RCME FM digital radio system from 1979 way into the 90s, it still works but not used now
|Thread: Radio gear compatability|
I definitely agree with Howard there. The crystal determines the frequency and nothing else. Slight differences in circuitry could cause a foriegn crystal to cause the unit to be off frequency a little bit. This may not show up on a range test but lets assume that the rx frequency was a little bit low and it encountered a transmitter on the ajacent channel that was a little bit high, and it does happen, there could be isues there.
In the case Les quoted the TX needs a Futaba crystal and the RX a Sanwa
|Thread: Advice for newbie please.|
OK Guilty as charged m'lud
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