Here is a list of all the postings gangster has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
not totally convinced that the esc is guilty beyond doubt. You do appear to have been pushing what in all honesty is really a cheap Chinese esc to and beyond the limit. I would play safe and use an 80 amp esc. The max current could be less in the air than on the bench but I would use that as a safety zone rather than relying on that. Cooling is also a factor. Personally I might keep that esc for say a 25 size model
|Thread: Acrowot MK2 ARTF.|
Sonny I assume from the title that you are talking about the artf. If it is the “artb” (balsa kit) I might be able to help you but won’t get a chance to look till next week. Pm me mid week if it is what you want. Not sure there would be a template for the artf one
Edited to remove duplicate post
Edited By gangster on 25/01/2019 17:00:47
I am not sure about why you think the control surfaces were in spin mode. The force or the crash could have left them anywhere. My money is also on power . We must not think for one minute that the ratings quoted on the power train components are safe. I allow at least 20% headroom. They are not necessarily describing the items wrong. But just not the way we expect them to mean. Also interference or make of radio should always be put very last as the possible cause of a crashing if you want to be getting near the real reason. As one who has been there I do feel for you it’s never nice to see it happen to anyone I hope you have not scrapped the model though you or someone else will get the inclination to repair it sometime
|Thread: PVA and Balsa sawdust.|
I have used it but not sure how well it sands. I have also used wood dust and cyano this works well but can be very hard
|Thread: Fried battery|
I agree with Dave
|Thread: Inwoods and DPD|
Whilst not totally sure of the connections I am impressed with the way DPD seem to communicate with their customers. I ordered an aerial via an eBay supplier to be delivered via Argos in the local Sainsbury’s. I got an email from DPD giving the time it would be delivered . However shortly after that time I got an email from DPD with a picture of Sainsbury’s back gate saying unable to deliver Strange even deep in rural Lincolnshire Sainsbugs are open at 10.30 AM. While I was contemplating my next move I got a call from the supplier that DPD had contacted them and straight after a call from DPD. Another call from the supplier and another from DOD confirmed they had contacted Sainsbury’s and it would be dropped off there in a few hours. Seems Argos refused it as at 2.3 M long it broke the size rules. Top marks to DPD for communication with both me and the supplier and for problem solving. I am sure your order will be fine
|Thread: Which Watt Meter|
So in a nutshell Buy a Wattmeter as they are called for this purpose, the cheap 3 button ones are working well for most of us. Do not exceed the max current. Buy a few sizes of prop as well around the chosen range .Prop size is probably as significant as anything else in this business
Edited By gangster on 21/01/2019 09:13:04
wattage. ?? No such measurement
Wingman. I am not totally sure it is too far off topic. The guy wants a watt meter which in my opinion on is vital if you are to choose your own power train for a model. Some basic meaning of what you are measuring must help what does not help is waffling about advanced theory to put the everyday modeller off for life
So let’s keep it simple for the average sub kW motor in an average model
Max amps is the main decider . If you draw more than the maker says you deserve smoke . Ignoring efficiency back emf etc keeping the maths simple .decide the power you want for the model ,choose a motor of that power then divide that power by the voltage If that figure comes to more than the max current either look for a bigger motor or goes for a battery of more cells (within the voltage spec of the motor) Then look at prop size and follow the makers recommended range If that is way too small for the model in question you want a motor of lower kv ie 1000 not 1500 etc Do not however push the motor to max current and go for the next size up of esc doing that allows for the fact that we are simplifying the maths to basics and that the manufacturer is pushing his spec too hard finally downy run on the ground too long it will draw less in the air (back emf again)
Edited By gangster on 20/01/2019 14:50:42
quite so Dave but surely way over and above what we need to know and indeed what we could even measure. If a manufacturer quotes a maximum current the best we can do is measure the dc current into the esc. Not the pulsed 3 phase into the motor. I have no doubt that the power, max current that we are quoted are what we can measure into the esc and do not take efficiency of motor or esc into consideration. With the normal motors we use together with a cheap meter as previously described we will not go far wrong provided we play safe and allow a bit of headroom
Attilio your post makes perfect sense to me and I have almost always used the maximum current for the motor to be the one parameter that I based my choice of set up on. ( yes I know voltage is important but I am solely a 3s or 4s man). What has confused me and indeed caused me to buy elswhere is that one of our most respected supplier of batteries sell a range of motors quotin power rpm and voltage but not max current nor can they definitively quote one
|Thread: Gangster 75 Build Blog|
Ah yes Percy. The aileron flutter. That is one thing I never understood. I have had a few 52s and 63s and on each one I did not build the strip ailerons right to the tip. I never had the aileron flutter that so many others had I do not know why that was not shown in the instructions. As for economy of design MR was very clever they used so little wood
|Thread: Acrowot replacement motor|
Has the prop been changed to the wrong size?
|Thread: Acrowot with laser 80|
Check out the RCME review of the artf acrowot. I am pretty sure it required a lot of weight to balance. That was with an asp fs70. Mine needed the same although I have seen others with 2s 52 or 55 size engines that balance just fine. Whilst I have no idea what’s going on there or what changed if yours is of the tail heavy variety the laser a bit further forward could help
|Thread: Zulu E|
Thanks Piers for looking at that It looks like one of those simple but satisfying builds, Yes I will post a few pics, there seems to be so little about it on the forum, maybe it slightly pre dates the days when everyone posted everything on line. Maybe I can generate some renewed interest in it.
Yes Nick I will look again. I was going through the blogs and did see a reference to F4 but I think that was for the Zulu ET. Did not find much relating to the E
Cheers Tony I will press on. I am sure it will be a great flier. The Dawn Flier is fantastic so am sure this will be. It’s just that as I brought the sides to f1 -f3 I thought What!!!
I have just started to build the Zulu E Love the chunky look but just want to check something with you guys
Should the fusalage really be 5"" wide or has something gone wrong with the scaling of the free plan, Looks very wide
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