Here is a list of all the postings David Davis has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Engines - general questions.|
I keep some Southern Modelcraft Double Hi Lube fuel especially for the HP VTs. I have three left, a 25 and two 49s and I'm thinking of selling the 49s.
However, if I knew that I was going to use these engines, I would not be averse to running one of the HP VTs on fuel made with synthetic oil. What's the worse that could happen? If a ring goes or if a piston seizes in the bore, spares are available from MECOA in the USA.
That said, the only time I've ever seized an engine in mid air was when I ran an HP VT 21 on ordinary fourstroke mix, 15% synthetic oil, 10%-15% nitro, but I could have been running the thing too lean!
What do you need to know about the HP VT engines Robert? I've owned five of these and consider myself pretty knowledgeable.
|Thread: Corona CR6D 2.4GHz receivers.|
A clubmate has given me three Corona CR6D 2.4GHz receivers said to be compatible with my Spektrum DX9 transmitter.
Does anybody have any experience of them?
|Thread: Shipping used engine abroad|
I'm just having a break from painting the outside of my house and I looked up how much the postage was for my two Enyas.
The postage for the 29 was £12.00.
The postage for the 35 was £14.19.
As the engines are roughly the same size as were the boxes they came in, it appears that you pay an extra £2.19 to use eBay's Global Shipping Centre rather than the Royal Mail.
My Enya 35 arrived this morning. It had arrived at eBay's Global Shipping Centre on 12th and took eight days to reach me here in central France, mind you, two of those days were a Saturday and a Sunday. It's absolutely brand new and unrun.
The Enya 29 reached me last Saturday, 15th September, having been posted on 11th, so five days to get to me via the normal postal services of Great Britain and France.
Make of that what you will.
|Thread: well another newbie tipping his toe in|
Hi Ron and welcome from me!
I have taught a lot of retired beginners how to fly so if you'll take some unsolicitated advice from me, I have come to the conclusion that older beginners are better off starting with a foam Almost Ready To Fly (ARTF) electric powered model. It goes against the grain to say this because I'm a traditional aeromodeller who likes to build his own model aircraft! However, the wing loading on a "foamie" is usually lower than that of a traditional balsa and ply trainer which means that the model is capable of flying more slowly giving the trainee far more thinking time for those first few flights. Furthermore, if you have not invested hundreds of hours in building a model, there is less of an emotional connection with it and if you happen to damage it while learning to fly, it's not such a serious problem.
I fully support your idea of joining a club. Many clubs have their own trainers and instructors who can take you aloft on a "buddy box," a system of linked transmitters in which the instructor can regain control by releasing a sprung-loaded button or lever.
A man with your skills, knowledge and experience will probably want to build his own model so why not join a club, take some lessons from their instructors, buy an ARTF trainer in order to learn how to fly and build your own model at the same time. That way, once your Cessna, Piper Cub, Tiger Moth or vintage Radio Queen is ready to fly, you'll already be an accomplished pilot.
Spitfires take a bit longer to master!
PS. I turned seventy in March!
Edited By David Davis on 18/09/2018 12:42:41
|Thread: What would be a good first Balsa build|
+1 for the SLEC Fun Fly.
Comprehensive kit produced by a major supplier of balsa wood and other modelling products. It's fine intermediate trainer capable of a wide range of aerobatics, even if it doesn't look particularly realistic. The instructions are pretty comprehensive with lots of photographs. The only problem I had was that of fitting the canopy into position, I just couldn't understand the instructions so simply held it on with velcro! An electric version is available.
A few pictures from my build below.
PS. I dumped the supplied single wire undercarriage and fitted a proprietory item. Two mates were happy enough with the kit's undercarriage.
Edited By David Davis on 18/09/2018 05:29:41
|Thread: Shipping used engine abroad|
I had a 120 FS in a WOT 4 XL. Not outrageously powerful but did the job. I am currently in the process of fitting an old Laser 150 V twin into the model. I now seem to have quite a collection of Enyas; a brand new 15, a 19, the 29 and 35 referred to above, a 45, the 50 and the 120 FS.
I do not consider myself to be an engine collector though I have many more engines awaiting an airframe than I have models with engines in them!
I have recently begun to appreciate the quality of Enya engines and have bought or been given several.I fitted an Enya 50 to a Seagull Boomerang trainer and grew to admire its power, ease of use and reliability. Such a pity that I failed to regain control quickly enough when my pupil became disorientated!
However, I have recently won two Enyas on eBay, a 29 and a 35. The 29 was delivered today to my home in central France, having been posted in England on 11th September via Royal Mail. The 35 was posted through eBay's Global Shipping Centre on 12th September apparently without any problems. I will let you all know when it arrives.
The 29 turns out to be a ball-raced Model 5224 so I'm hoping for a lively performance from it. I'm not sure what I am going to put it in but there is a special prize in La Coupe Des Barons for any Baron built to the 1970s plan fitted with a 1970s engine.
|Thread: Hello from Charles Towne USA|
Welcome from me too.
|Thread: New Laser engines. What do you want?|
I must admit that similar thoughts had crossed my mind. Jon has posted on other threads since February and the parent company appears to have settled into its new building, perhaps he's just gone on holiday. Everybody deserves a holiday.
Currently there is a note on the Laser website saying that they hope to return the 70, 80 and 100 motors to full production by mid September which is an improvement on the previous note which simply said that they were out of stock. Odd that they've missed out the 155. I always thought that that was a popular seller.
As for the twins, I suspect they're working on converting them to petrol and unlike other manufacturers, they won't be relaeasing them until all of the bugs have been ironed out.
|Thread: Best Building Guide or Book for first time builder|
I can't think of a book which will help you Michael, but if you're already in a club perhaps one of the experienced builders may be able to help you.
Have you bought a kit yet? If not a Ben Buckle kit such as the Super 60 or the Radio Queen, pictures below, might be a good place to start. These are easy to build and fly and even the most competent pilot enjoys the relaxing flying characteristics of models like these. If you fancy something more aerobatic a SLEC Fun Fly would be a good model to choose. Pictures below.
As for the equipment you'll need;
Welcome to the forum! You'll find lots of help on this forum even though it is said that if you ask ten different aeromodellers you'll get twelve different answers!
I am going to make only two suggestions.
The first is that you join a club. The British Model Flying Association (BMFA) has a site which shows the location of the nearest clubs to where you live. **LINK** If I were in your situation I would visit more than one club and explain your situation. In most cases, established members will only be too keen to help you to learn how to fly, they may even have a club trainer which you can use on a "buddy box," which is a means of linking a master and slave transmitter so that the instructor can give you control or take over control by holding or releasing a sprung button or lever.
Secondly, have a flight simulator installed on your computer. The autumnal gales and dark nights are just around the corner so why not fly on your computer, that way you'll learn how to fly without having to repair your models all the time which was what I had to do!
Two final points.
Learning to fly a radio controlled model aeroplane can take quite some time and the older you are when you start, the longer it will take you to learn. I took up a young fellah on an electric powered foamy trainer last Sunday and the first thing he said, once I had landed the model, was that it's not as easy as it looks. You may find co-ordinating all of the controls rather difficult at first, then it will all seem to come together but your progress will not be linear. The next time you fly you may find that you are all fingers and thumbs again but don't get disheartened, you will not have gone back all the way to square one.
Finally do not get too attached to your trainer. I am an experienced club-level instructor and I've wrecked two Almost Ready To Fly trainers so far this year. The first crash was apparently caused by my fitting a cheap and cheerful receiver to the model and I had a "brown out" and the second was caused by me failing to take back control quickly enough when my trainee had become disorientated. C'est la vie.
|Thread: What engine|
Large models like the Spacewalker do not need oodles of power and though a 120 two-stroke will certainly power it, a 120 four-stroke would fly it in a scale-like manner.
Steve Webb Models suggest that the model is suitable for a 120 two-stroke or a 120-150 fourstroke. **LINK**
Bear in mind that the 150 or 155 Laser powers the Flair Tiger Moth or SLEC Stampe more than adequately and they are biplanes with all that extra drag.
|Thread: Phoenix 2000. Which electric motor?|
I've had a Phoenix 2000 ARTF glider for several years but I've never even started to assemble it. It's the glider version rather than the electric powered version but I intend to convert to electric power.
On the box lid the recommended motor is a "4010/850kv." They recommend an ESC of 30 Amps and a 1500 mAh 3S LiPo but this is for the standard set-up with the small propeller. If I go with this set-up, which motor would you recommend?
Would you recommend a different set up with this model? If so what?
|Thread: The Big Guff.|
I'm just accumulating materials necessary for the build of the Big Guff and I see that the undercarriage on the American original was made from, "1/8 inch spring steel wire."
Is that the same as 8swg?
The model will probably weigh about seven pounds.
|Thread: Precedent Stampe 1/4 Scale|
I do the same with any of my models which I value. Come to think about it, though I can fly in a wind, I don't enjoy it and tend to stay home if it's windy.
|Thread: Forum Members Old Heaps: Let's See Them!|
Ah but that picture was taken when it was new and unflown. It's decidedly more scruffy now!
I've got one of those fitted with the same motor!
Here's a picture of what it looked like when it was new. It's a lot more scruffy now, mind you it doesn't take long for my models to start looking scruffy!
|Thread: Home made exhaust for petrols....|
When I was a member of Shropshire Model Flying Club, one of our members built a superb 1/4 scale Fokker D VII powered by a Zenoah 38. He had made up a silencer which fitted inside the fuselage made from an old Calor Gas cylinder but I don't know any of the details.
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