Here is a list of all the postings David Davis has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Trendsetters and Iconic Models over the Years?|
Four Star 40,60 etc
Calmato Alpha 60
|Thread: Do you love some of your engines so much you don't fly them?|
Thank you for the offer Don, I have never considered myself to be an engine collector but I am an acquirer of unconsidered trifles!
It was a nice day yesterday and as a reward for having finished digging a trench in the garden, one of two required to build a path on sloping ground, I had a play with some of my engines which could possibly be used in a 40 sized trainer. I managed to get the following to run on the test stand: Webra 40, Super Tigre 40, Enya 45 and OS 40 FP which used to power my Fun Fly, so I'm not short of suitable engines.
I also own three Irvines and the Enya 50 any of which I could use.
If I do replace the Boomerang I will think about installing an electric motor but probably end up running the Enya 50!
I have my own training programme Andy which goes like this;
However, my trainee had only reached Stage 3 of the training programme when he got into difficulties. As I've said above,I failed to take back control quickly enough and this happened...
If I buy another Boomerang I may power it by an electric motor, I've no emotional involvement with them, but then that Enya is so pleasant to use and to listen to.
Funny that Brian, I bought an Enya 35 of eBay for a few quid last year. It was in its original box with both cylinder heads and all of the paper work. It had been mounted in an airframe, marks on the lugs, but never run. This engine also has no monetary value but I can't see me starting it, flying it or selling it! Something else for the significant others to deal with when I drop off the perch!
Don, the OS 40SR and the Enya are early engines with threaded holes for the silencer each side of the exhaust port. On the OS the part of the exhaust port, towards the back of the engine, has broken away. On the Enya the silencer mounting bolts have sheared off in their holes. Hence the need for a strap-on silencer.
The other OS is an as new rear exhaust engine which is intended for a Peter Russell 363.
Any of you feel the same way as I do about some of your engines? Over-protective perhaps?
|Thread: Forum members' new models: Let's see them.|
I have never liked control line models but that is a beautiful model!
|Thread: Paint masks& markings|
Yes he has. It's a pity because I used him a lot.
Edited By David Davis on 12/01/2020 13:22:02
|Thread: If I fit floats to my Senior Telemaster will I need a more powerful engine?|
You are right Alan, I used to import Telemaster kits from America and I have flown Telemasters with four, six and eight-foot wingspans, but when I first set up the business, I initially built a four-foot Mini Telemaster and others built the rest of the range including Samantha who assembled the ARTF Senior Telemaster under my supervision. A bloke called Richard, who sometimes posts on here under the soubriquet, "Sparks" because he's an electronics engineer, built the Telemaster 40 and I've no idea where the cg was. Here we are in the picture below.
What I DO remember however, was that it was the nicest model to fly out of the entire Telemaster range.
I'll probably go with a cg a little in front of the marked position on the plan.
Edited By David Davis on 11/01/2020 17:19:41
|Thread: What size model?|
I once knew a man who drove a Peugeot 205 GTi and who managed to cram a Precedent Stampe biplane into it.He put the transmitter and a bottle of petrol into the two cockpits and it really didn't take him long to assemble it once he'd got to the flying field!
|Thread: The Big Guff.|
The construction of the Big Guff continues. I have covered the tail surfaces in Red and Antique Solartex. I intend to cover the fuselage too and to move both of them into the guest bedroom while I attend to smaller models requiring servicing or repair before the flying season starts in earnest. The tailplane is over a yard wide (94cms) and could have been easily damaged in storage in its uncovered state. Building the tailplane with its "eggbox" system of construction has been good practice for the wings which are built in a similar way. The assembly weighs 8.5 oza or 241 grammes. I have not yet glued the hinges in place nor the fin to the tailplane.
Picture below. I don't know why it is on its side but it's not the only one. Mods can we do something about this?
|Thread: If I fit floats to my Senior Telemaster will I need a more powerful engine?|
The cg marked on my Telemster 40 plan is 4.5" from the leading edge or 37.5% of the 12" chord. This seems rather too far back to me. The model does feature a lifting tailplane so perhaps that has something to do with matters.
Would you recommend moving the cg forward to a more normal 30-33% of the chord on the landplane version before moving it even further forward when it is fitted with floats? If I were to fit a Laser 70 to it this could easily be achieved!
Having laid the float over the plan I've found that the nose of the float sticks out 5.5 inches ahead of the prop so if I use an 11" prop I should be alright.
That said the cg marked on the plan is 4.5 inches back from the leading edge of the wing on a 12" chord. I make that 37.5% of the wing chord. I can't be sure any longer as the model has crashed and somebody else built the model for me in the first place but I think that the model balance on the spars. In other words the cg was at 3" back from the leading edge, 25% of the chord.
PS. Alan, check out the size of the rudder in my earlier post this morning showing my Telemaster 40 in flight. It's rather small even for a trainer. I think I'll enlarge it 50%.
Edited By David Davis on 10/01/2020 12:05:41
Thank you for all of your advice gentlemen.
The floats came with instructions on how to mount the floats e.g., mount the step at the centre of gravity, with the top of the floats level, the wing incidence should be 1,5 degrees,floats should be parallel to the centre line of the fuselage and lead should be placed at the front of the floats to being the cg 9-10mm in front of the manufacturer's recommended position.
Given that I've already bought the floats, and given that the fuselage of the model should be 25% longer than the length of the floats, I am considering building another Telemaster 40 fuselage and tailplane as the length of its fuselage is 45" (114 cms) which is about right for these floats. As you can see in my previous post, the tailplane survived the crash but two house moves later it has disappeared.
I am wondering whether to fit an electric motor as per my original Telemaster 40, or whether to fit a four stroke engine. I have a few homeless 48-70 four strokes which would fit.
Well I've gone and bit the bullet and I've bought a set of ready-made floats. I thought I'd prepare a model for floats over the winter. The floats were advertised on the internet advertised as being suitable for models weighing up to 5kgs or 11lbs. I had intended to fit them either to my Senior Telemaster or perhaps to my WOT 4 XL. When they arrived they turned out to be VQ Model 635 2481 Floats intended for a 40-46 size model.
|Thread: Bob Wright's HM 18 Flying Flea as modified by Abbott Baynes. 53.5" wingspan.|
Thank you Max. I am only going on what is printed on the plan. I read elsewhere that the HM 18 had an enclosed cockpit as in your picture. My plan shows an open cockpit. I'm not sure how I'm going to finish it but one thing's for sure, I won't be entering it into any scale competitions!
PS. I've just bought a copy of the December 1992 Radio Modeller on eBay so maybe the build article will enlighten us.
Edited By David Davis on 03/01/2020 18:45:25
All of the ribs on both wings feature a 1/4" square section leading edge set on the side to give a pointy leading edge.
The leading edges are made from 1/4" square balsa turned on the side so that they present a sharp edge to the airflow. A diamond shape in cross section.
Martian, I was at Greenacres when Ian Redshaw flew the Bertie Bassett Flying Flea and I got to talk to him.
Edited By David Davis on 03/01/2020 16:14:04
In 1997 my best friend and former lead guitarist Micheal Harker was diagnosed with leukaemia. We played our last gig together on New Year's Eve 1999 and within two years he was dead. Michael had had a private pilot's licence but had never built a model. As he became less and less fit he asked me to suggest a suitable radio controlled model which he could build and fly. I suggested the usual suspects but he wanted something more challenging and chose Bob Wright's 1/5 scale HM18 Flying Flea, as modified by Abbott Baynes. This aircraft is unusual in that instead of the elevator operating in the normal manner, the entire tailplane is fixed. The mainplane pivots to provide pitch control. I flew one at Cocklebarrow once and it flew very nicely but I handed it back to the owner for him to land it!
However, on studying the plan, as we do, I spotted the following instruction, "NOTE: L.E'S ARE NOT ROUNDED." Then there is an arrow pointing to the leading edge of the tailplane.
I have a few questions for people with superior aerodynamic knowledge.
I learned at my mother's knee that if the leading edges are not rounded the model's propensity to stall is increased, so why is there this instruction on this plan?
Is it because it is a tandem wing aircraft?
Does this instruction apply only to the the tailplane or should the leading edges of the wing be left sharp too?
Anyone have a copy of the magazine? December 1992 Radio Modeller? I would willingly pay for a photocopy of the build article or for the complete magazine.
|Thread: Uploading pics. to album|
Eric, go to the brown-red line at the top of the page marked "Settings," "Inbox," "Friends," "Albums" etc and click on "Albums."
If you want to create a new album, click on "Create A Photo Album." Then give the album a name and description, though I believe the description is optional. Then you click on "Create Album."
Having created the album you then click on "Edit Photos." Then click on "Add More Photos." You can then browse the pictures stored on your computer and select up to five at a time. Having made your selection you click on "Upload" and the pictures will be put into your album. This might take some time. Once they have been uploaded click on "Save Changes" and all should be well.
If you want to add pictures to an existing album, click on the album, then click on "Edit Pictures," then "Add more Pictures" and continue as above.
Best of luck. We'd all be interested to see your models.
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