Here is a list of all the postings David Davis has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Ebay sellers...|
Nice patina. It would look good in a wine bar!
|Thread: Return of the SMA|
I'd favour 2cc for diesels too. That way we could dig out our old SD Competition Specials!
|Thread: Flair Puppeteer Help Please|
I had a similar problem with the cg on a 1/6 scale Roy Scott BE2e. Different aircraft of course, two seater, 80" wingspan. The plan shows the cg on a line with the rear cabane strut. I flew it like that but had to play a tune on the sticks at the same time. **LINK**
The cognoscenti advised me to move the cg up to the middle of the front cockpit. I melted a lot of lead into a sardine tin. I fitted that under the engine, it's easier to fly now but I've found out that with both the Puppeteer and the BE2, you have to fly them right down onto the ground when landing. They don't glide very well!
|Thread: Vintage model ID please|
|Thread: Flair Puppeteer Help Please|
A lot of people struggle with flying the Puppeteer with the CG in the position as indicated on the plan, including me. I believe the c/g is shown at 130mm from the upper wing leading edge. Try it at 110mm.
|Thread: Which mounting screws for AXI 2820/12|
I have one of these motors fitted to a double size Tomboy. Several months ago I bought a box of over 1000 socket bolts on eBay. Each bolt is either M2, M3,or M4. I used M3 bolts to secure the motor to the model. Maybe the threads in the motor casing have been damaged.
The plan and wood packs are available from Sarik. **LINK**
|Thread: Spektrum Tx and Rx compatability, or binding trouble|
+1 for the Spektrum AR410.
I have one in a vintage Big Guff which took me 14 months to build. If I didn't trust the receiver I would never have installed it. Very easy to bind.
Edited By David Davis on 19/09/2020 11:13:23
|Thread: The Dark Nights Fix-up 2020|
...and this is mine!
Chris Olsen Uproar. I've not had much success with this model. The first time I crashed it occurred because I didn't understand computer transmitters. (Futaba FF6 remember them!) and had insufficient down elevator movement to allow me to get the nose down when the engine had cut. I repaired the model, started the engine, took off turned across the wind then with the wind and suddenly I had no control.
Hoping for third time lucky.
Note the immaculate workshop and the paint splashes.
Edited By David Davis on 17/09/2020 09:51:08
|Thread: Got away with it!|
Interesting. Did the model exhibit the same characteristics when it was powered by an i/cengine Bob?
|Thread: vintage covering options advice please|
Light weight tissue is available in several coloursfrom Sussex Model Centre here: **LINK**
SMC also stock dopes: **LINK**
Mike Woodhouse of Free Flight Supplies also stocks tissue and dope: **LINK**
Apparently quite a few people these days use tissue over mylar or doculam which makes the tissue much more puncture proof but I've never used it myself. As for fuel proofer, since you'll be using a diesel, polyeurathane varnish should work as should any commercially available fuel proofer.
|Thread: Laser 80 - what would YOU build for it....?|
I'm finishing off a DB Sport & Scale Auster for mine.
|Thread: Got away with it!|
Unfortunately I cannot take off into wind if the wind is from the north at our flying field as I explained in my previous post.
Thank you for all of your advice gentlemen.
The wheels on the Tomboy hang straight down from the firewall. On my Tomboy they are raked forward slightly and they were toed in from the outset. I added a brace last week to the single wire undercarriage leg which stiffened it considerably but the holes in the wheels were too big for the axle resulting in considerable play and a less than satisfactory performance on take off.
I spent yesterday morning checking the servo by connecting it up to a battery and servo tester, switching it to "automatic" and leaving it to oscillate for over 15 minutes. That proved that there was nothing wrong with the servo, a Hitec HS311.
I then squirted WD 40 onto the collets and went for lunch. I tried to slacken off the grub screws without success so gripped the collets with a pair of pliers and pulled them off the axles with main force. I tried bushing out the existing wheels but as I only had plastic tube and no drill stand, that was not too successful. I found a nice pair of wheels with aluminium hubs, drilled them out to match the undercarriage wire and then found out that the hubs were too wide, so there was no chance of retaining them even with a soldered on washer! Finally I found a pair of cheap and cheerful foam wheels which I fitted to the undercarriage, then I drove the 4kms to the flying field and tried a couple of test flights.
Much better! The wind blew from the north and our tarmac runway runs east to west. I could have taken off into wind from the grass but I would not be allowed to do that on club days because I would be flying towards the flight line and the pits so I took off towards the east. The model did not track like a three channel trainer, with all that dihedral and no ailerons a cross wind take off is not easy but at least the model is more controllable now and less dangerous on take off to assembled clubmates.
I've had an interesting time with the Double Size Tomboy over the last few days. It has been fine in the air but it has squirreled all over the place on take off, so much so that on Sunday it looked as if it was going to clout a group of pilots in the pits so I deliberately put it in, damaging the undercarriage mountings in the process and losing a couple of cross members from the wing mounting. Part of the reason for the problem is that the undercarriage is just one piece of 6mm wire so it flexes easily and the wheels are also very loose on the spindles. I tried to remove the wheels but the grub screws have seized in the collets, but I did manage to solder a brace to stiffen up the undercarriage and I replaced the cross members with larger section balsa.
I took it to the flying field yesterday afternoon. I am a club level instructor and have just acquired a new pupil, a 71 year-old Belgian called Franz to add to my 60 year-old Englishman Andy, and my 50 something Frenchman Eric. We are getting very international at our club! Franz is making all the usual beginners' mistakes with an electric four channel foamy trainer but I have long held the view that elderly beginners are better off with a vintage model because they are based on free flight technology and are much more stable than any modern ARTF trainers. After a couple of flights with the foamy trainer I offered Franz a go on the buddy box with the Tomboy.
The model still went all over the place on the ground but at the second attempt I got it into the air. I climbed to altitude then gave Franz control. He did alright at first then things seemed to go haywire. I regained control and was immediaterly aware that something was wrong. The model would not turn to the right. There was very little wind but it was sufficient to send the model slowly further and further away. I still had control of the electric motor so could gain height but it was impossible to keep the model on a constant heading steering into into the breeze. Consequently it was reaching the limit of my vision and perhaps I was getting disoriented, whatever the reason the model went into a spiral dive which I thought was terminal but suddenly I had full control again so I flew it back and landed safely. My colleagues had been sitting in the shade drinking beer. After getting the model back, that's what I needed too!
It was only when I was packing the model away that I found a possible cause. Inside the cockpit was one of the old wing seat cross members which I had not noticed before. Had this lodged in the rudder servo preventing me from using right rudder? Had it become displaced in that seemingly terminal spiral dive so that I had control back again?
Two things are for sure. I am going to put the servo through a thorough testing with the servo tester and I'm going to grind off the collets and either fit better fitting wheels or bush out the old ones.
Happy landings gentlemen!
|Thread: Price of Kits|
A Warbirds Replica Hurricane was the last kit I bought from a UK supplier, and as I was the one who did more than anybody else to bang the drum to get a batch of kits built, I'm afraid to say that I haven't even started it. I don't consider myself quite ready yet for a low wing model with retracts.
I also bought a short kit of the Big Guff which I have built and flown from Laser Design Services in the USA. It took me fourteen months to build it but it has been flown. I paid $135 US for it. It's current price is $179.
I've just taken delivery of a Super Kaos Junior short kit from Eureka Aircraft of Arkansas. I wanted this kit in order to use my OS 40 V rear exhaust engine. I will run the exhaust out on top of the fuselage.
I know that Ken asked for UK kits but neither of these two models was available in the UK. Does it help if I say that the proprietor of Laser Design Services comes from Portsmouth!
|Thread: Ebay sellers...|
Nice engine but ...**LINK**
Supply and demand.I don't think they're made anymore. They have a reputation for longevity and reliability. Perhaps some people think they're an investment.
Me I'd rather spend less money on a second hand OS or a Laser if I needed one.
|Thread: redundant at 62!|
Hard luck Chris. I was made redundant at 60 so I know how it feels.
Mike T, unless they have changed the rules since my day you should have been able to get Contributions Based JSA for six months even if you were as rich as Croesus providing had been paying Class 1 (ie Employed Status) National Insurance Contributions. If you were self employed however...
It was Social Security Benefit which was means tested. They've both been replaced by Universal Credit.
|Thread: steam powered model plane ?|
Was it the same David Parker who designed the "Firebrand?"
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