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Member postings for Bill Brown 3

Here is a list of all the postings Bill Brown 3 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Heinkel HE51
19/10/2013 14:43:56

J.C. eh Jim, can you really turn water into wine? laugh

17/10/2013 18:24:16

Nice Jim, I like it, thought I`d altered your misspelt name before anyone noticed blush

16/10/2013 21:28:41

Jim Carss has been offering the plan to others on this blog Stephen, check him out.

Edited By Bill Brown 3 on 16/10/2013 21:29:47

16/10/2013 21:20:30

Get some wood and create another Stephen, glad you like the spats Jim, how`s your one doing ? any up to date pics ?

Thread: spitfire covering
14/10/2013 21:46:13

This is a Mk v Geoffrey, I think sea grey as it is a blueish light grey.


Thread: Heinkel HE51
14/10/2013 21:26:35

Moving forward now with the landing gear, there are some support wires which replicate a scale detail, they run between the uprights and then out to join the wing.

The wires are 1mm, the joiners are brass pipe 1mm i.d. and each is soldered at one end only so that they are telescopic to take up strut wire movement, the plan does not describe how to join them to the wing so I have returned the wire along the wing rib and bent the end in to a hole made in the side of the wing mount fixing block then epoxied in place.

The wheel spats consist of a centre block with an inner and outer face, these components should be glued together in place on the strut wires but once again if it was necessary to remove a wheel one would have to hack it up. I decided to put the three components together then drill through from the outer face to a depth midway into the inner face, I then glued brass tube to the inner face, the outer end of the tube has been tapped to take screws, once sanded to shape I glued the inner face to the strut wires and once set followed by glueing the centre block on to it leaving the outer face to be removable and held in place by screws. The strut fairings use a 5mm outer face of which the inner face has to be grooved out until the wires are as good as buried, once glued into place a thin piece of balsa sheet covers the inner face. All of course has to be sanded to profile. I also added a piece of balsa to the top forward corner as it is a scale detail which is not allowed for.

02/10/2013 18:16:09

The lower radiator housing has now been carved and sanded to shape, i wanted to avoid a fixing method that leaves screw holes showing the way that the lower front covering does so i soldered a small bit of copper to one end of some 4mm brass tube to give a strong fix and glued it to the inside surface with epoxy after lining it up, then threaded the inner of the tube to take a set screw, the tube passes through a hole in the landing gear platform and the set screw is tightened from above in the fuel tank area.

28/09/2013 17:18:25

Hi Jim and thanks David,

My fuel tank is right behind the firewall so ducting that direction is not possible thats why i had to go below, what i intend is pretty much the same principle though and like yourself "hope it works"

28/09/2013 14:50:10

Thanks Danny and cheers for the link Mark, not very expensive those diesels are they.

The lower front fus gave me much hastle as if built to plan it would be ply sheeted or stringered out and covered, however either option would end in denying any future access to the engine mounting bolts and landing gear anchorages without major surgery, i also needed to think about engine cooling air flow exits.

Regarding the covering i made the front section from balsa block which is then screw retained giving an access route to the engine mounting nuts, the next section will be covered with mesh to serve as an air flow exit forming part of the cooling system, another exit will be through the scale lower radiator housing which fits between the wheel struts, this also covers the foreward landing gear anchorages so will also have to have removable fixings to allow access, the lower wing which should be glued has already been made removable giving access to the rear anchorages.

As for cooling there is the cool air inlet which is mesh covered in the face of the nose cone also the two scale upright slits either side of it which have been angled through to either side of the cylinder head, the exposed rocker cover will act as a heat sink anf finally another inlet above through the scale vent housing on top of the nose section. Exit allowance is via a triangular hole in the lower firewall followed by a duct down through the lower mesh on the underside and also in to the lower radiator housing where prop wash (hopefully) will serve to turbo charge the air flow out. Any thoughts or comments on this one would well recieved. indecision

This photo shows the firewall exit and the rough diagram (if you can make it out) shows the method.

27/09/2013 11:51:24

Hi Mark, you`r probably right and i can see where you are coming from but i know nothing about diesel engines and had formed the opinion that they were outdated as i don`t know anyone who uses one, i`m sure that i could easily read up on operating them but my thought modes never went in that direction and it`s too late now, however, thanks for your input mate, much appreciated.

Thread: Storing Models
25/09/2013 21:14:59

You could suspend the fus`s from the beams using webbing straps around the tail plane and put some foam covered angle brackets on the wall for the wings perhaps indecision

Thread: Heinkel HE51
25/09/2013 20:57:36

Thanks BEB, a few more bridges to cross yet but one at a time eh laugh

Thread: 2.4Aerial
23/09/2013 21:50:35

They dont have to go outside the fuz Steve but they do need to point as close as poss at 90 degrees to each other.

Thread: Heinkel HE51
23/09/2013 21:47:07

The landing gear wires have now been bent, wrapped and soldered.

16/09/2013 20:17:36

It certainly does look better painted, here it is in primer.

14/09/2013 16:35:13

Well, all the necessary mutilations have been done and we end up with this, (hopefully it will look better when painted).

09/09/2013 20:47:35

Well, managed to get the nose shaped in to some sort of sembelance of the real thing then had to set about hacking it up to squeeze the rocker cover in so bang goes my wish to get the motor all in cowl. However it does not look too ugly allthough it detracts from the scale finish, it is just a bit too far foreward to cover it with the inlet duct so i will place the duct behind in a more scale position and allow it to add a bit of cooling, will have to cut another hole now in the front for the same purpose and will cover it with mesh. This one is throwing many challenges. (but i love a challenge)




07/09/2013 10:59:40

Thanks Jim, i was already considering doing that but the rocker cover comes just a smidgen in front of the upper facing even after trying to create a bit of room to bury it, i think i will carve the exit point out and see how i can disguise it.

Thread: Black Horse Piper Cub Fault
02/09/2013 17:38:54

Thanks again all, your tips and views are very much appreciated. yes

30/08/2013 14:07:53

Thanks for your views on this one chaps, some good food for thought and things to check, your right about the engine size Colin, the manual states a 52 size f.s. although being aware of this maybe will be o.k. if take offs are gentle without perhaps giving it full throttle, please feel free to correct me if i am wrong, i also feel that the 13x6 prop could be too big as A.S.P.s largest recommendation is 13x4 or options of 12x5,6,7, and 11x7,8,9,.

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