Here is a list of all the postings Bob Cotsford has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Cambria Funfighters charity Xmas draw 2018.|
PP sent Darren
|Thread: RC Paints|
I've used RC Paints sold as matching Oracover. They claim to be fuel resistant but really need some lacquer to protect them..They smell like enamel, I think I used the old Flair Spectra Clear Gloss clear the top to give a reasonable degree of fuel proofing. Not the Spectra 'fuel proofer' 'cos it ain't. The Clear Gloss that they sold was much better.
|Thread: Glue for foamy?|
|Thread: T/E thickness|
How thick does it end up if you shape it to follow the line of the ribs, and how big is the model? I've noticed no real world difference in control response between 1/4" thick t/e on fun-fly model wings and 1/16" thick on more scale models and the same on elevators and rudders. I'm talking club sports models here, not designs for use in competition. A lot of ARTFs seem to come out of the box at 3/32-1/8".
For me it's more a case of what looks right on any particular model and what will stand up to normal handling. Just keep the edges squared off and avoid making the t/e radiused as this does seem to affect control response.
|Thread: Christmas films worth recording|
erm, "jumping the barbed wire in the Great Escape on a Triumph" and it was his mate who actually did the jump for the cameras!
Bob C, Nitpicking dept.
I envy you, it's times like Christmas and Royal weddings/births that make me wish I could settle down with a bottle of JD.
|Thread: Field Loss - Planning complaint|
Good news Nigel, we have planning permission for our club to fly from farmland but those who negotiated it some years ago stated in the application that we would operate an 80dBa limit. It didn't stop our local
|Thread: Hangar 9 P47 repair|
Jon, the 60-120 size units listed stall at about 1A, I've tried stalling a leg while monitoring pack voltage and saw only in the region of 0.2v drop before the stall protection kicks in. There's a bit of a surge as the legs first start moving, too quick for me to record, so for scale models where larger wheels need to be lifted I put the legs on separate channels with a delay on one leg.
My Curare uses three units for it's trike u/c and has given zero issues running a single 1700mAH 2S LiFe pack even with all three legs moving together. That uses 'Jetcraft' branded units which appear identical to the JP units.
Oddly the highly acclaimed and highly priced E-Flite units have been temperamental.
For the ultimate in build quality and reliability then you can't beat Lado units, but what a price! €220 EACH, for some reason they all show as 'out of stock' these days.
HK units have proved quite reliable for me, certainly better than E-Flite, only the plastic trunnion versions ever giving me a problem other than where I've had to excavate them from an unplanned arrival site.
The electric units that I've used have all had overcurrent and stall protection so I've not bothered with a separate battery but I don't rely on the ESC's BEC. Instead I use a large capacity 2S LiFe pack (A123 or at least 2AHr) for the radio and retracts.
|Thread: Voltage sensor|
Chris has a good point, I used to wire the battery connection and set the pot then lock it (wax, evostick - whatever was to hand) before making a connection to the receiver to be certain of putting a maximum of 3.3v into the A2 connection.
I've just tried to see what I used and the only marking I can make out looks to be '101', but 10k sounds about right.
|Thread: Hangar 9 P47 repair|
I've found the JP Retracts to be reliable and sturdy so far Geoff. Similar to E-Flite but in my experience more reliable, and a drop in for most 60 size models.
Best to check the price with Webbs as it's is marked as 'each' whereas the last pair I bought were about £99 a pair.
Edited By Bob Cotsford on 10/12/2018 19:06:16
|Thread: Plane for new engine - any suggestions?|
It would make a nice relaxing machine in a Junior 60, mine had an ASP30Fs. Lovely for those balmy summer evenings that we have had for the last couple of years.
|Thread: Another model shop closing|
I remember having seen GeeDee ads in the mags for decades. While city centre locations were prime back in the days when buses were the normal shopping transport and kits could be carried under one arm with ease the world has moved on. I doubt it has much to do with HK really, it's just the way commerce of all sorts has evolved.
I notice that most internet sales based companies seem to have shops on Ebay these days as well as their dedicated sites.
|Thread: CDI interference?|
Check the braid on the HT connection, this needs to have a good connection to the plug cap and to ground in the CDI unit.
I used to use the Rcxcel clones from Hobbyking, iirc I did have to swap the cap on one, that just needed a decent size iron to solder the braid to the cap.
It might be worth flashing the later X8R firmware as there was an issue around spark interference recovery times if my memory serves me right.
|Thread: Voltage sensor|
Chris, these were the original D series voltage sensors that have fallen out of favour as most people just use the LiPo sensor for external voltages these days. I must admit that I never bought one myself preferring to use a high value screw adjustment miniature pot to act as a divider when I used to only worry about the total pack voltage. We're a bit spoiled with X series SPort sensors now.
The current sensors do indeed give the total battery voltage. My X4R sensors include a line VFAS in the telemetry section with the 40A sensor hooked up.
Andy got there first! The FBVS-01 appears to be a device with a selection of three dividor ranges. I know GiantCod used to selll these, might be worth checking RCLife.
Edited By Bob Cotsford on 08/12/2018 14:55:03
|Thread: The right adhesive|
I suppose the logical glue would be a contact type but I'd try PVA and possibly a VERY low heat iron. Canopy glue/RC51 or similar might be worth a try too. Did you film over the open areas of the structure or are you trying to stretch the original covering back into place onto the balsa? If you covered it first it might prove easier to get the plastic back on. Scuff the film with wet'n'dry first to give it a key, this will be easier if done before attaching it. The canopy glues seem to stick well to films better than most adhesives.
|Thread: BMFA mag's going a bit over the top?|
Unfortunately delivering three copies brings triple all of those costs other than the design step!
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