Member postings for Bob Cotsford

Thanks Peter, it would be easy enough to setup a new bookmark group in Firefox, pity about not being able to browse other's shared setups all the same.

Thanks Peter, I was expecting to be able to save to my PC where it would be easy to find with File Explorer. So is there a link to browse shared setups? I can't immediately see one, I'll take a closer look later.

Hi Jesus, nice looking Bucker! I am also a member of the Jungman club, mine being from the Don Stothers plan - 49" originally flown with an OS61FX but in the queue to be converted to electric.

What part of Spain do you live in? I always used to enjoy my twice yearly trips to Valencia for MotoGP and WSBK races, usually riding down from Calais or Dunkerque. Any further south was to hot for my English blood!

I use eCalc and tend to rely on it for initial settings for new models but I have to admit to not being familiar with the others mentioned above. I have eCalc, it works and it has a comprehensive database of prop, battery and motors that hasn't let me down - yet! The only thing I'd like added to it would be a simple way to save motor setups, you can give your configuration a name but I've yet to find out how to save it!

Simple as that? I've only ever used a<x or a>x, I need to be more adventurous!

Just out of interest Tim, how did you configure this function? For my EP models I just use a simple readout every 10 secs or so if the altitude exceeeds 390' but it might be educational to compare visual clues for different model sizes at different heights.

I agree Chris, maybe they just think that fixed-wing flyers are a more sensible and responsible lot? Or maybe this is focused on a possible Christmas flood of MRs gifted to tech minded teens? Who knows how the beurocratic mind works, after 66 years I still can't see their logic half the time.

I would have said that although the illustrations use a multirotor it states quite clearly that the term 'drone' is being used in reference to all SUA under 20kg - that means all models under 20kg. Everything I saw applies as much to the lone FW flyer as to MR flyers. Every kit I've put together in at least the last twenty years has included safe operating flying instructions - you know, the bit we all skip over because we know how to fly model planes.

That was an old (80s-90s?) airframe from a job lot, all the veneer edges were lifting and there were significant bubbles in the middle. When I completed the model in 2013 I tried heat but in this case it did nothing, probably because not much glue had been used in the first place. I suspect it had originally been veneered using copydex but as I didn't have any I used thin PVA. I sold the stilll airworthy model last year and it shows no further signs of lifting veneer. If you can get Copydex in then you would expect it to give a better bond if it was used to bond the veneer in the first place.

I've just slit the lifting veneer along the grain, brushed in thin PVA, masking tape over the split then weighed it down for a day or so. It worked for me!

This one needed a lot of work both on the skin and the inset aileron linings.

Edited By Bob Cotsford on 14/10/2019 23:22:31

If you really want to go to town with your ammo box, remove the seal and line it with 2mm self-adhesive vynil off e-bay.

I think my 1 1/2 Strutter from the Veron kit is a similar size and used to fly ok on a 20 2 stroke so the 40FS should be plenty. It's rudder only and doesn't need much rudder movement or it dutch rolls. When I had better thumbs it could be thrown around a bit.

I've done that in the past but these days I prefer to use a short wire link maybe 30mm long with a Z bend on one end for the servo connection and a simple loop the other end for the closed loop cable to connect to. It just makes it easier should you need to swap the servo out.

That's looking the mutt's nuts now Nigel. Can't help thinking what a nice electric model it would make with battery access through the nose

My NGH engines had push fit caps and I freely admit to fitting them with a mallet on more than one occasion!

The 1/4" twist lock plug cap on my Evolution was deceptive, sometimes I thought that I'd twisted it far enough to lock but once the engine fired the cap rotated back again. It should have a definite detent in the locked position and getting it twisted past the detent took more force than you'd think on such a little plug.

Edited By Bob Cotsford on 10/10/2019 21:48:57

Where is the problem Steve? The model couldn't go anywhere without ripping the tail off on the back of his legs, I don't see how else he could connect the battery safely.

I would also have appreciated demonstrations of pass and fail standards, not just a well executed sequence.

First of all Colin, check the HT lead for breaks in the braid or a poor connection to the plug cap and that the plug cap is actually on tight. Could the plug have had a knock? Might be worth just trying a new plug anyway, they have been known to cause interference when they go bad. Can you get another ignition unit to try?

None of the petrol engines that I had caused interference unless something was broken, both times it was a loose plug cap. Are you using a separate battery for the ignition?

It's reported as an out of date security certificate, on FB it's been stated that the officials are aware of this and are taking steps to renew the certificate.

ok, I should check before posting when a parcel arrives in mid post

Edited By Bob Cotsford on 07/10/2019 10:32:49

Please don't tell my JR servos that I was feeding them from LiFe packs for years! I did have a batch of Hitec 645MGs that lost centering on anything over 6v, LiFe of 5 cell NiMh they didn't cente until the initial voltage peak dropped off. I ran them through a HK dual regulated failover switch using whatever packs were charged, LiFe or LiPo, and they were fine.