Here is a list of all the postings Andrew Ray has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Art Hobby Gliders|
I have the 2.5m Orion EV. Lovely kit and flies very well, I fitted a Hacker geared motor driving a 16" prop powered by a 3s 2200, it will climb vertically with ease and is capable of covering the sky quickly.
If you go for an electric one you may still have to cut the nose off to fit the motor, attach the carbon boom to the fuselage pod and attach the tail surfaces. The wings need blocks fitting for the fuselage mounting. I seem to remember that the blocks for the carbon joiners are fitted. Yes, I think the control surfaces have the hinge material in place but there is an amount of cutting necessary to relieve the surface. It may sound daunting but taken carefully it is not a difficult build.
Oh, nothing is covered, they recommend lacquer for the wings, I used a Deluxe Materials water based product directly onto the veneer. I used the same on the tail but used it to apply lightweight silk.
Edited By Andrew Ray on 20/06/2019 17:31:42
|Thread: Who said it would never happen in our lifetime|
But this Airbus electric plane has. Admittedly it is even smaller but look where electric model flight started and where it is now.
|Thread: Confirmation - The World Really Has Gone Mad......|
I’ll go flying anytime Percy. I prefer the patch in the morning and the hills in the evening.
Wouldn’t some of you be better off building something or going flying rather than sparking off at each other? It would at least be more productive and less stressful.
|Thread: Extending Receiver NiMH 6V pack leads|
Andy, extending the lead by that much shouldn’t be a problem. Worth getting a multimeter if you don’t have one then you can measure the voltage before and after for peace of mind.
|Thread: Tony Nijhuis Harvard - Build Log|
Or try using a hardened steel ejector pin used in the diecasting industry. I cannot remember where I bought mine from but so far so good the 6mm pins used have not bent, not yet any way but still early days.
|Thread: Cumulus resurrection|
Similar to the Graupner Cirrus fuselage (or were they the same) with a different canopy. A friend was given a kit as a thank you from a good friend of his, very expensive at the time, a typical 100" kit was around £20 this was £100 back in the day.
|Thread: Now that Solartex has gone...|
Getting back to the OP's question, "What paint would you recommend?" I would like to know too. I have tried an enamel type paint (I think it was this) recently on doped nylon without a primer and it is coming off, used with a primer on solid surfaces it has a level of fuel resistance which is ok but would need a fuel proofer around the engine. 2k from a rattle can that Bob suggested earlier sounds interesting.
Something that is resistant to glow fuel (doesn't need to be fuel proof although if it is so much the better), is easily available and doesn't require air fed breathing equipment would be ideal for my needs.
Further to the what type of paint question, what would you use as a primer on an open fabric iron on covering?
|Thread: New EDF Mini Jets- Hawk & Lightning|
Must admit I will be up for a Gnat and Lightning. Great work Tony, fantastic to see these iconic jets becoming available at a size that will be easy to transport and will not break the bank.
Edited By Andrew Ray on 02/06/2019 20:21:25
|Thread: "Complete A Pac" P47 Thunderbolt|
There are two 61” Thunderbolts, I believe the correct one is MW2104 because this is the plan in the kit I have, cowls are also available.
Edited By Andrew Ray on 30/05/2019 06:07:24
|Thread: Seagull Mosquito Laser build|
If you were too slow over the top, most likely the wing dropped as it stalled and as that happened the fin caused the model to yaw as it dropped. A yaw could cause a wing to stall and drop but that would imply that an engine had cut and it doesn't sound that it did as you circled to land.
|Thread: Another thread closed|
But warn folks and delete posts if necessary but don't close down a thread that there are obviously passions about, moderate it.
I agree Ken but I do think this forum is over moderated although they don't moderate on my behalf but because they have a responsibility. Steve says he has better things to do with his time, sums it up really, don't be a moderator. The Traplet discussion was shut down with a very heavy hand I suppose because of the commercial connection and yet we modellers were concerned about the wealth of plans and resource that potentially might have been lost.
|Thread: diy canopy|
Here's a useful article on Moulded Canopies and probably of a similar size to what you need. He talks of using .040 PETG.
Edited By Andrew Ray on 21/05/2019 09:18:29
|Thread: Trouble contacting Laser engines|
Hi Jon, my thoughts are with you, hope all goes well.
|Thread: Another thread closed|
|Thread: Taranis 9 channel|
The iRange modules will support many but not all protocols.
The iRange IXR4 Plus gives you the option of serial mode where the chosen protocol is set in the OpenTX menu. You have to select multiprotocol when you flash OpenTX, in the transmitter menu this then gives you the protocol choices. The knob also gives the option of setting protocols if you have a tx that does not have the Multiprotocol option but as this doesn't apply to the Taranis you don't have to worry about it. I use one of these in my JR PCM9XII but in my Horus I use the iRange IRX4 for no other reason than I think it looks neater.
Edited By Andrew Ray on 13/05/2019 16:12:09
Gary, the X9D is a good place to start. Doesn’t really matter if it is EU LBT or not as it can be flashed with the correct firmware and yes it is fully updatable, although from what you have said I would recommend getting one that is already flashed with the EU LBT firmware.
For Spektrum you will need a module, either a Spektrum, Multiprotocol iRange X or Orange. I use the iRange X for my indoor Spektrum equipped models.
Like Andy and many others on here I wouldn’t change from FrSky, I had a Taranis for 3 years and upgraded to the X12S Horus 2 years ago, it took time to learn how to do things and I am still learning but what you can do is to a point only limited by your imagination.
|Thread: Aileron differential|
You roll into a turn with aileron, using elevator to maintain attitude and rudder to balance the turn so that the aircraft is neither slipping or skidding and that the ball stays in the centre or the yaw string is down the centre of the canopy. In practice all 3 controls are moved virtually at the same time.
Differential aileron helps to reduce the secondary effect of aileron which is yaw, the effect increases with increasing wing span.
Not all aircraft are the same though, it may help to counter the opposite yaw from the ailerons to lead with rudder depending on the design. I heard that some pilots flying the ASH 25 sailplane commenced a turn with opposite aileron to set up yaw into the direction they wanted to turn then quickly coordinated controls. The technique helped the glider into a thermal turn more quickly. Used (I believe) because the rudder is relatively small and ineffective.
It is not as dangerous as some make out to use crossed controls, a sideslip is used to scrub off speed or height for landing and can be taken down to a few feet off the ground in full-size terms. In fairness this is not so easy to judge in model flying and probably not necessary other than to try something different.
|Thread: Ripmax Phase 5e|
Or, buy a Phase 5 plan from the man himself...
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