Here is a list of all the postings Andrew Ray has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Another thread closed|
|Thread: Taranis 9 channel|
The iRange modules will support many but not all protocols.
The iRange IXR4 Plus gives you the option of serial mode where the chosen protocol is set in the OpenTX menu. You have to select multiprotocol when you flash OpenTX, in the transmitter menu this then gives you the protocol choices. The knob also gives the option of setting protocols if you have a tx that does not have the Multiprotocol option but as this doesn't apply to the Taranis you don't have to worry about it. I use one of these in my JR PCM9XII but in my Horus I use the iRange IRX4 for no other reason than I think it looks neater.
Edited By Andrew Ray on 13/05/2019 16:12:09
Gary, the X9D is a good place to start. Doesn’t really matter if it is EU LBT or not as it can be flashed with the correct firmware and yes it is fully updatable, although from what you have said I would recommend getting one that is already flashed with the EU LBT firmware.
For Spektrum you will need a module, either a Spektrum, Multiprotocol iRange X or Orange. I use the iRange X for my indoor Spektrum equipped models.
Like Andy and many others on here I wouldn’t change from FrSky, I had a Taranis for 3 years and upgraded to the X12S Horus 2 years ago, it took time to learn how to do things and I am still learning but what you can do is to a point only limited by your imagination.
|Thread: Aileron differential|
You roll into a turn with aileron, using elevator to maintain attitude and rudder to balance the turn so that the aircraft is neither slipping or skidding and that the ball stays in the centre or the yaw string is down the centre of the canopy. In practice all 3 controls are moved virtually at the same time.
Differential aileron helps to reduce the secondary effect of aileron which is yaw, the effect increases with increasing wing span.
Not all aircraft are the same though, it may help to counter the opposite yaw from the ailerons to lead with rudder depending on the design. I heard that some pilots flying the ASH 25 sailplane commenced a turn with opposite aileron to set up yaw into the direction they wanted to turn then quickly coordinated controls. The technique helped the glider into a thermal turn more quickly. Used (I believe) because the rudder is relatively small and ineffective.
It is not as dangerous as some make out to use crossed controls, a sideslip is used to scrub off speed or height for landing and can be taken down to a few feet off the ground in full-size terms. In fairness this is not so easy to judge in model flying and probably not necessary other than to try something different.
|Thread: Ripmax Phase 5e|
Or, buy a Phase 5 plan from the man himself...
|Thread: New EDF Mini Jets- Jet Provost & Folland Gnat|
That Gnat is so pretty.
|Thread: Warning X8R RX - do not use with CDI on IC powered 'planes|
I wasn't aware of this problem and have sold all my petrol engines bar one which is in an Acro Wot XL fitted with a X8R. Not flown it much and had no issues but I will not be flying it until I have changed the receiver.
Thank you Ron for bringing this up.
|Thread: Exponential for beginners?|
This would have been a non argument when I learnt to fly, we didn't even know what rates were let alone expo because they hadn't been invented. The model was set up appropriately so we didn't worry about non linear movement as it was not noticeable.
Edited By Andrew Ray on 30/04/2019 14:36:15
|Thread: Build your own telemetry sensors.|
Mine arrived today too. Many thanks Chris.
|Thread: Holding screws in|
I have drilled out the hole in a canopy when I had the same problem, glued in some fuel tubing that was a snug fit on the screw. Worked a treat. The fuel tube also needs to be a snug fit in the hole you drilled.
|Thread: wire rigging|
Simon, sorry but I don't agree, I have Duncan Hutson's prototype electric SE5a, built by Duncan himself. It is 50 something inch wingspan, the rigging is most definitely functional, it is not fitted with turnbuckles and uses fishing trace that is crimped. It flies well and any slight difference in the rigging of the wires is not noticeable. If it's good enough for Duncan it's good enough for me...except I would most likely use turnbuckles on something larger.
Den, you may not be able to solder fishing wire, it is usually coated. I use wire cutters on the crimp and enough pressure to do the job, across the tube and usually in 2 or 3 places.
|Thread: Seagull Hurricane Laser|
...and I thought a Spitfire was the difficult one...
Sorry to see that Tim, I hope you can/do repair it.
My early flights with both an Eflite and 72” YT Hurricane were hairy to say the least, pitch down with full flap and YT recommending 20mm elevator each way, I had dialled in expo as well and I very nearly lost the model.
I found Jon’s (Laser Engines) advice invaluable from earlier in this thread, I reduced elevator movement to a maximum of 7mm each way and took out the expo (it doesn’t need it) and set this as low rate initially. The result was a much more manageable model that is nicely harmonised and well behaved on approach, I fly the approach with full flap which as much as I can get, about 70°.
|Thread: Radio, servo malfunction|
I had 5 Tower Pro servos from Banggood, they were all useless, they wouldn’t centre accurately and would overswing if the sticks were let go. Complained to BG who offered me some loyalty points (ha ha). In the end I told them I thought they were fake and opened a dispute through PayPay, they soon refunded the money and didn’t want the servos back so I binned them.
Steve Webb sells genuine Tower Pro servos, good vale and reliable when purchased from a reputable dealer who sells the genuine item. There is a lesson to be learnt there...
|Thread: Anyone for a Tiffie?|
I hope nobody thinks this inappropriate but I spotted this on eBay yesterday and it looks very much like BEB's Tiffie.
|Thread: wire rigging|
As Don and Peter say if it is non functional or something like this steel fishing wire (but in a smaller quantity) either from your local fishing tackle shop or online. Buy crimps or make them from copper or brass tube. For the brackets use some thin brass or tin.
|Thread: 35 Meg Rx|
I have used multi strand telephone cable in the past, does the job.
|Thread: How do you buy your Balsa?|
This is an interesting question and it doesn't end with balsa...
I regularly buy for stock.
I will buy if there is an offer but I do not seek out offers.
Depends what you call bulk, £150 doesn't buy much balsa.
It will all get used in time.
No idea how much uncut balsa I have, generally enough for the next few projects but I always run out of 1/16 sheet.
I recently bought a load of ply including 10 sheets (12" x 48" ) of 1/64 ply through eBay at a very, very good price and now have a stock of that which will last many years.
I also buy material for control runs in 25m lengths, I use bowden cable and a PTFE outer, very cost effective and smooth in action for a fraction of the cost of proprietary snakes and I just cut it to the length I want.
And I buy dope by the gallon. My standard finish on sheet balsa or veneered foam is tissue and dope which is then painted so I get through a fair amount, even so a gallon will last me a long time.
I tend to buy most things in quantity, mainly because I can just get on and build. I have stock of servo connectors, wire, piano wire, brass tube, glass cloth, covering material and so on, it's just easier and I have the space to store it.
Edited By Andrew Ray on 16/04/2019 06:20:32
|Thread: Please answer the following two questions if you can.|
That's an air force not a collection of models!
I'm in a similar boat, I reckon I have 16 models that need time spending on them, most part built that need finishing. I am trying not to start anything new until I have these all sorted. I would love to start a project and finish it without being distracted by something else.
And from the replies above, no you are not alone...
|Thread: FLOUREONŽ Lipos|
I have used them for a few years now, I have 8 in total, 6 are 3s 3000mAh that get a fair amount of use and so far I am very happy with their performance. I bought mine from Amazon, not that it makes a difference other than they were the cheapest at time.
Want the latest issue of RCM&E? Use our magazine locator link to find your nearest stockist!