Here is a list of all the postings Andrew Ray has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Now that Solartex has gone...|
Getting back to the OP's question, "What paint would you recommend?" I would like to know too. I have tried an enamel type paint (I think it was this) recently on doped nylon without a primer and it is coming off, used with a primer on solid surfaces it has a level of fuel resistance which is ok but would need a fuel proofer around the engine. 2k from a rattle can that Bob suggested earlier sounds interesting.
Something that is resistant to glow fuel (doesn't need to be fuel proof although if it is so much the better), is easily available and doesn't require air fed breathing equipment would be ideal for my needs.
Further to the what type of paint question, what would you use as a primer on an open fabric iron on covering?
|Thread: New EDF Mini Jets- Hawk & Lightning|
Must admit I will be up for a Gnat and Lightning. Great work Tony, fantastic to see these iconic jets becoming available at a size that will be easy to transport and will not break the bank.
Edited By Andrew Ray on 02/06/2019 20:21:25
|Thread: "Complete A Pac" P47 Thunderbolt|
There are two 61” Thunderbolts, I believe the correct one is MW2104 because this is the plan in the kit I have, cowls are also available.
Edited By Andrew Ray on 30/05/2019 06:07:24
|Thread: Seagull Mosquito Laser build|
If you were too slow over the top, most likely the wing dropped as it stalled and as that happened the fin caused the model to yaw as it dropped. A yaw could cause a wing to stall and drop but that would imply that an engine had cut and it doesn't sound that it did as you circled to land.
|Thread: Another thread closed|
But warn folks and delete posts if necessary but don't close down a thread that there are obviously passions about, moderate it.
I agree Ken but I do think this forum is over moderated although they don't moderate on my behalf but because they have a responsibility. Steve says he has better things to do with his time, sums it up really, don't be a moderator. The Traplet discussion was shut down with a very heavy hand I suppose because of the commercial connection and yet we modellers were concerned about the wealth of plans and resource that potentially might have been lost.
|Thread: diy canopy|
Here's a useful article on Moulded Canopies and probably of a similar size to what you need. He talks of using .040 PETG.
Edited By Andrew Ray on 21/05/2019 09:18:29
|Thread: Trouble contacting Laser engines|
Hi Jon, my thoughts are with you, hope all goes well.
|Thread: Another thread closed|
|Thread: Taranis 9 channel|
The iRange modules will support many but not all protocols.
The iRange IXR4 Plus gives you the option of serial mode where the chosen protocol is set in the OpenTX menu. You have to select multiprotocol when you flash OpenTX, in the transmitter menu this then gives you the protocol choices. The knob also gives the option of setting protocols if you have a tx that does not have the Multiprotocol option but as this doesn't apply to the Taranis you don't have to worry about it. I use one of these in my JR PCM9XII but in my Horus I use the iRange IRX4 for no other reason than I think it looks neater.
Edited By Andrew Ray on 13/05/2019 16:12:09
Gary, the X9D is a good place to start. Doesn’t really matter if it is EU LBT or not as it can be flashed with the correct firmware and yes it is fully updatable, although from what you have said I would recommend getting one that is already flashed with the EU LBT firmware.
For Spektrum you will need a module, either a Spektrum, Multiprotocol iRange X or Orange. I use the iRange X for my indoor Spektrum equipped models.
Like Andy and many others on here I wouldn’t change from FrSky, I had a Taranis for 3 years and upgraded to the X12S Horus 2 years ago, it took time to learn how to do things and I am still learning but what you can do is to a point only limited by your imagination.
|Thread: Aileron differential|
You roll into a turn with aileron, using elevator to maintain attitude and rudder to balance the turn so that the aircraft is neither slipping or skidding and that the ball stays in the centre or the yaw string is down the centre of the canopy. In practice all 3 controls are moved virtually at the same time.
Differential aileron helps to reduce the secondary effect of aileron which is yaw, the effect increases with increasing wing span.
Not all aircraft are the same though, it may help to counter the opposite yaw from the ailerons to lead with rudder depending on the design. I heard that some pilots flying the ASH 25 sailplane commenced a turn with opposite aileron to set up yaw into the direction they wanted to turn then quickly coordinated controls. The technique helped the glider into a thermal turn more quickly. Used (I believe) because the rudder is relatively small and ineffective.
It is not as dangerous as some make out to use crossed controls, a sideslip is used to scrub off speed or height for landing and can be taken down to a few feet off the ground in full-size terms. In fairness this is not so easy to judge in model flying and probably not necessary other than to try something different.
|Thread: Ripmax Phase 5e|
Or, buy a Phase 5 plan from the man himself...
|Thread: New EDF Mini Jets- Jet Provost & Folland Gnat|
That Gnat is so pretty.
|Thread: Warning X8R RX - do not use with CDI on IC powered 'planes|
I wasn't aware of this problem and have sold all my petrol engines bar one which is in an Acro Wot XL fitted with a X8R. Not flown it much and had no issues but I will not be flying it until I have changed the receiver.
Thank you Ron for bringing this up.
|Thread: Exponential for beginners?|
This would have been a non argument when I learnt to fly, we didn't even know what rates were let alone expo because they hadn't been invented. The model was set up appropriately so we didn't worry about non linear movement as it was not noticeable.
Edited By Andrew Ray on 30/04/2019 14:36:15
|Thread: Build your own telemetry sensors.|
Mine arrived today too. Many thanks Chris.
|Thread: Holding screws in|
I have drilled out the hole in a canopy when I had the same problem, glued in some fuel tubing that was a snug fit on the screw. Worked a treat. The fuel tube also needs to be a snug fit in the hole you drilled.
|Thread: wire rigging|
Simon, sorry but I don't agree, I have Duncan Hutson's prototype electric SE5a, built by Duncan himself. It is 50 something inch wingspan, the rigging is most definitely functional, it is not fitted with turnbuckles and uses fishing trace that is crimped. It flies well and any slight difference in the rigging of the wires is not noticeable. If it's good enough for Duncan it's good enough for me...except I would most likely use turnbuckles on something larger.
Den, you may not be able to solder fishing wire, it is usually coated. I use wire cutters on the crimp and enough pressure to do the job, across the tube and usually in 2 or 3 places.
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