Here is a list of all the postings Andrew Ray has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Seagull Hurricane Laser|
...and I thought a Spitfire was the difficult one...
Sorry to see that Tim, I hope you can/do repair it.
My early flights with both an Eflite and 72” YT Hurricane were hairy to say the least, pitch down with full flap and YT recommending 20mm elevator each way, I had dialled in expo as well and I very nearly lost the model.
I found Jon’s (Laser Engines) advice invaluable from earlier in this thread, I reduced elevator movement to a maximum of 7mm each way and took out the expo (it doesn’t need it) and set this as low rate initially. The result was a much more manageable model that is nicely harmonised and well behaved on approach, I fly the approach with full flap which as much as I can get, about 70°.
|Thread: Radio, servo malfunction|
I had 5 Tower Pro servos from Banggood, they were all useless, they wouldn’t centre accurately and would overswing if the sticks were let go. Complained to BG who offered me some loyalty points (ha ha). In the end I told them I thought they were fake and opened a dispute through PayPay, they soon refunded the money and didn’t want the servos back so I binned them.
Steve Webb sells genuine Tower Pro servos, good vale and reliable when purchased from a reputable dealer who sells the genuine item. There is a lesson to be learnt there...
|Thread: Anyone for a Tiffie?|
I hope nobody thinks this inappropriate but I spotted this on eBay yesterday and it looks very much like BEB's Tiffie.
|Thread: wire rigging|
As Don and Peter say if it is non functional or something like this steel fishing wire (but in a smaller quantity) either from your local fishing tackle shop or online. Buy crimps or make them from copper or brass tube. For the brackets use some thin brass or tin.
|Thread: 35 Meg Rx|
I have used multi strand telephone cable in the past, does the job.
|Thread: How do you buy your Balsa?|
This is an interesting question and it doesn't end with balsa...
I regularly buy for stock.
I will buy if there is an offer but I do not seek out offers.
Depends what you call bulk, £150 doesn't buy much balsa.
It will all get used in time.
No idea how much uncut balsa I have, generally enough for the next few projects but I always run out of 1/16 sheet.
I recently bought a load of ply including 10 sheets (12" x 48" ) of 1/64 ply through eBay at a very, very good price and now have a stock of that which will last many years.
I also buy material for control runs in 25m lengths, I use bowden cable and a PTFE outer, very cost effective and smooth in action for a fraction of the cost of proprietary snakes and I just cut it to the length I want.
And I buy dope by the gallon. My standard finish on sheet balsa or veneered foam is tissue and dope which is then painted so I get through a fair amount, even so a gallon will last me a long time.
I tend to buy most things in quantity, mainly because I can just get on and build. I have stock of servo connectors, wire, piano wire, brass tube, glass cloth, covering material and so on, it's just easier and I have the space to store it.
Edited By Andrew Ray on 16/04/2019 06:20:32
|Thread: Please answer the following two questions if you can.|
That's an air force not a collection of models!
I'm in a similar boat, I reckon I have 16 models that need time spending on them, most part built that need finishing. I am trying not to start anything new until I have these all sorted. I would love to start a project and finish it without being distracted by something else.
And from the replies above, no you are not alone...
|Thread: FLOUREONŽ Lipos|
I have used them for a few years now, I have 8 in total, 6 are 3s 3000mAh that get a fair amount of use and so far I am very happy with their performance. I bought mine from Amazon, not that it makes a difference other than they were the cheapest at time.
|Thread: Free seaplane plan from the 80s|
I looked on Outerzone first but couldn’t find it.
Piers, I don’t know as the plan is down at my workshop a few miles away. I will find out when I get a chance to go down there. I don’t have the magazine, it’s just the plan but it should have those details on it.
The funny thing is I was sorting my old plans and came across the Supermarine 10 plan only a couple of days ago. Interesting looking model and on my to build list.
I have an A3 scanner and may well be able to scan the plan for you.
|Thread: Lost radio contact|
Graham, yes 700mAh should be fine just as long as you don't want to fly all day. Transmitters used to be supplied with 600mAh nicads and they were more than good enough for a normal days flying, although they weren't 2.4, my early Taranis came with a 800mAh battery and that was plenty for me.
Have to say I agree with Denis, a reputable manufacturer wouldn't recommend dry cells if they or the radio were not fit for purpose.
|Thread: Servo size|
Before computer radios we were flying large 4m sailplanes like the early Alpina with a single standard servo such as the Futaba 148 controlling both ailerons. Similar sized models such as the Ridge Rover, Phase Lift and Countryman with flapperons would have two servos connected to a mechanical mixer, one would operate the ailerons and one the flaps. We didn't worry too much about the torque as the standard servos of the day were more than up to the job.
I agree with Nigel R, we do over spec servos today.
|Thread: Paypal Charges - how are they calculated?|
Hi Gordon, this is the PayPal calculator I use. If you send money to a friend then there are no fees and there is no protection, you can always call anyone your friend for the purposes of selling but at your risk. If you are selling to someone you don't know and want the seller protection then you pay the fees.
Edited By Andrew Ray on 31/03/2019 16:58:47
|Thread: How to use IRX4+ multi-protocol module with Taranis?|
Have you checked (ticked) the multimodule box in the radio profile settings? If not you will need to do that and reflash OpenTX to the radio. That will then give you the option to select MULTI on the model setup page under External RF and then you can select the protocol.
Edit. I'm thinking of the IRX4, I have the IRX4+ but I use it with my JR radio.
It may well be that your protocol is not supported.
Edited By Andrew Ray on 26/03/2019 22:43:46
|Thread: South Herts Glow Switch|
Received, thanks Martin.
Thanks Martin, PM sent.
I have two, my original one is 4 cell and has a lead with an adjustment pot fitted. Last year I bought a model that has a glow switch fitted, it is a twin, the glow switch looks similar but the pots are fitted to the main board. I wasn't aware of the two types.
I have one of these glow switches and have lost the instructions. Unfortunately it appears that South Herts Models are no longer around and a Google search for a manual or instructions draws a blank.
Does anyone have the instructions they can scan for me please?
Edited By Andrew Ray on 25/03/2019 13:49:33
Hi Martyn, I didn't realise you hadn't been well, pleased to hear you're on the mend though, hopefully the workshop time is helping your recovery.
Oo, what a lovely model. I like the colour scheme too. Must say I have all but given up with pneumatic retracts and gone electric except that I have just one set, a set of Unitracts for a future scale project.
|Thread: What's your rate limiting step?|
Painting. I enjoy covering with either tissue (on sheeted surfaces), nylon or glass cloth and some models just cry out for a painted finish, I just don't like painting. It is well worth the effort when done and I am usually happy with the finish.
I love making wing ribs, particularly with a big tapered glider wing, sandwich the blanks together, carve and sand away and hey, a lovely set of tapered ribs. Therapeutic too.
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