Here is a list of all the postings Craig Carr has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Carbon Fibre Landing Gear|
I replaced the metal units on my Seagull Spacewalker many years ago with a commercially availaible carbon unit from Carbon Copy. Never let me down at all. Just need to take the measurements of your exisiting undercarriage Height, width (between wheel to wheel) and the top bit and find the closest to what you need on their site.
There is a diagram on their site explaining this........ They can also do them in white as well as some swept back ones
Edited By Craig Carr on 29/07/2009 09:02:39
|Thread: Setting up seperate elevator servos on a FASST rx|
Speaking to the chap in question, he was told not to "y" lead digi servos.... Begininning to think its another of those "urban myths"
Hi David - its a glow model (Os 160) - seagull Extra
Thanks Ultymate, I had seen Simons earlier post saying more or less same thing and have just this morning used a spare rx and a couple of spare servos and have it working that way.
Edited By Craig Carr on 28/07/2009 11:18:09
David - re "y" leads on digi servos.. I hadnt heard of this before. Whats happening is Im hoping to buy a large Extra off a club mate (8 channel model hence post) He has digi servos in the ailerons and when I said I could solve my problem by "y" leading the ailerons he said you should never "y" lead digital servos. The reason he told me was they "fight" trying to centre/too much juice being pulled. Im like you hadnt heard of it before but not having had the luxury of 2 digi servos before couldnt say any different
Lee - yep 7 channel tx module - hence 7 channel rx.....
Edited By Craig Carr on 28/07/2009 11:00:19
|Thread: BMFA news|
|"Brains of a rocking horse" LOL (in joke BB and I)|
|Thread: Club disputes|
Ive been on my club Committee for nearly 3 years now as Treasurer of Blyth Radio Model Club. Ken Anderson is Chairman. All I can say is that in the time ive been on the Committee things have gone pretty smoothly.
The reason being we (the Committee) take the approach that provided we apply the club rules and constitution we are only applying what has been agreed by the membership at AGM's etc over the years.
At all times we make the members aware of everything we do/are doing via our monthly meetings. Any constitutional or radical change is only done by vote at our AGM. This way Members have been consulted and have democratically applied a change.
Therefore I think I can say at Blyth Model Club we have a pretty happy ship.
However, I can see that perhaps in some clubs there will always be a small pocket of club members who think they can do things better and they like to play "armchair committee". But do they ever come to meetings to say what they think or put a proposal forward at an AGM! Do they ever put themselves forward for election at AGM's.
You can please some of the people some of the time but never all of the people all of the time. Its worth remembering that generally Committees are unpaid volunteers who administer a club on behalf of all its members.
|Thread: BMFA news|
Once all posts are in do you not fancy emailing Simon with a link to this thread? - im almost sure he publishes a contact email address in the BMFA news.
Defo Simons idea.. He told me this when we were sorting the obit for our club (re my earlier post).
|Thread: How Annoying !!|
Dusty, you dont think it was malicious??? - Its just the amount of damage caused seems a lot compared to what they were doing. Probs just me being over suspicious though.
Ive been in my present club for 8 years and seen accidental flightline damage once or maybe twice,, always sorted out in a gentlemany way...
Think you definetely need to pursue it thoroughly via the Committee ensure its investigated properly, injured parties satisfied etc etc.
Keep us up to date mate.
|Thread: GWS A4 Skyhawk|
Hi Mike, its definetely an aluminum construction. So well made. The unit I have didn't need any balancing whatsoever. I asked Scott (BRC) about this at the time and apparently they are sorted out at the factory so just fit and play... I have the 800 watt 4 s version. Similar battery pack to yours (4s 3700).
I think ive tred a similar path to you re EDF with 2 disappointing models prior to my Lander Panther. The units were cheapo plastic units, hard to balance, made a lot of noise for hardly any thrust etc etc
The Lander Units in comparison make the most realistic turbine sound ive ever heard from EDF and loads of thrust.....Have made me get right into EDF now.... You wont be disappointed.
Need to get this thread back on track now before we get a ticking off from the Mods
as Timbo says lets have a look at some pics pre "jet hang". I fly the Lander Panther and bizzarely last week on launch the 4s 3700 lipo broke its restraint and shot to the back of the fuz making the model competely tail heavy Did exactly like yours and just hung there for what seemed an age.... quite impressive for about 10 seconds - Couldnt have done it again if I tried.
I use the Aluminum (Lander) fan unit and can report they are an extreemely well made product and the sound is so turbine like. Think the range has increased considerably at BRC. Give scott a ring
|Thread: Setting up seperate elevator servos on a FASST rx|
I know this has been a recent topic for spectrum gear but can anyone help.
I have a Futaba FF9 but a 7ch Futaba FASST module. I want to set up a model with seperate elevator servos and seperate aileron servos.
re the elevator I know normally you would use channels 2 and 8. Not having the luxury of an 8th channel due to the limitations of the module does anyone know if the 7th channel can be used for this purpouse? - If so hows it done?
I cant use channel 6 as thats set up for the ailerons. (ch 1 and 6) I know I could "Y" lead the two ailerons up to just channel 1 but they are digi servos and (so ive been told) you should never "Y" lead digital servos.
Any help greatly appreciated.
Edited By Craig Carr on 26/07/2009 16:30:05
|Thread: Finishing foam surfaces?|
Have only used glassfibre. The stuff from Flair (0.6 oz per sq yard)....
Defo Bens suggestion of fibregalss and Poly C.... Whatever you do dont use epoxy for the glass or you'll make the model too heavy and destroy its flight characteristics A fellow club member made a lovely job of glassing his GWS Corsair but used epoxy and the model was heavy and the flight ended in....... followed by
Remember foam construction is used to keep them light, thats the beauty of Poly C it goes on lovely, no smell, and when completed next to no weight is introduced.
Once the models covered in glass and Poly C - its the perfect medium for painting. And provided the models completely covered the Poly C/glass is a barrier to the foam allowing you to use your paint of choice (I tend to use simoniz grey car primer first before going to the colours). Use a mix of the finer "wet and dry" papers for a super finish
RC world (I believe) have sole rights to the product..
Edited By Craig Carr on 25/07/2009 19:15:25
|Thread: BMFA news|
BB - couldn't agree more..
At Blyth Model Club re recently lost a member who had supported the hobby/BMFA for many many years and was one of the best ambassadors we had. The Chairman and myself felt an obituary was a fitting tribute and it was printed in the very last BMFA news that carried the obit section.
During our discussions with the BMFA they advised us that after this they were going to use the web for Obits. We pointed out that the BMFA News is the best way of making the majority of the BMFA members aware (ie we all get a copy) and not everyone has internet access.
Unfortunately that fell on deaf ears. But as if to prove our point a chap from down south had read our obit in the BMFA news and emailed our Chairman to say how the individual had taught him to fly many moons ago whilst he lived in the North East, the happy memories he had all those years ago, and how sad he was at the news of his passing.
The Chairman took the email to the family who I understand got a lot of comfort from such a simple email, together with the printed article in the BMFA News.
Whilst I embrace technology fully I think like yourself they are doing a great disservice to their Members and like you point one page or so for obits isn't asking much.
Edited By Craig Carr on 23/07/2009 23:28:00
|Thread: President Funfly rebuild|
Yep defo blind nuts as Jim says. Poss also apply a touch of threadlock.... If its all boxed in and you've applied nuts behind,, can you imagine refixing them if you need to change the mount
|Thread: 4 engine multi - wiring|
Hi TImbo, first flight was a brief 3 minute sortie to get it trimmed..... Model was way out needed full right aileron trim and full up trim. Ive accidentely built 2deg neg incidence between main wing and tail (doh).....
Could rejig/pack out the main wing to bring back to zero zero but dropped Tony an email and think the best thing to do is live with the up elevator trim (although I have reset the trims to neutral on my tx and mecahnically adjusted the trim back on the model so I have full trim adj on my tx again if I need it).
Now I know if flys the plastic parts have been repainted with a much better match to the profilm (you may recall earlier thread) - thats all done now and Im just fitting some cowls over the outrunners.
When rain stops am going to take some pics of the model reapinted and cowled and will post.
Thanks for the help
Hi Timbo, just to close this thread really.
Sorry for the late reply to this but the model was just recently completed to "flight ready status" and maidened last week. I spoke to my local e flight shop and tried some brand new JP 4100 (30c continuous) 3s packs. Anyway with the new packs the watt meter held at a steady 10.9v when running two motors at once, and I was geting in the region of 520 watts
same story for the other set of motors so am getting over 1000 watts which is what I wanted.
Only conclusion I can come to is that the older cells I had been using for testing were unable to hold the current as Bruce suspected.
Edited By Craig Carr on 21/07/2009 09:41:19
|Thread: Zagi Prop just wont stay on|
Hi Mark, I used to have a powered Zagi years ago. It came with a gunther push on type prop. Mine also used to keep coming off.
The problem was when you push a gunther onto the motor spindle there is no where for the air to go so it kind of used to keep pushing it back off (like a hydraulic effect). The cure was to use a pin to put a small hole in the top to allow the air to escape as you push it on.
Hope you see what I mean, alternatively as Ken says you can get a prop adaptor and an equivalent prop but give my suggstion a go first, may save you a few quid
Let us know how you get on,
Edited By Craig Carr on 21/07/2009 09:02:36
|Thread: Battery tester/not......|
Being in Kens club I can tell you that he is one of the most safety conscious people I know and is extremely particular about making sure everything is checked and double checked. The moral therefore is "if it can happen to Ken - it can happen to any of us".... Be careful you may be next
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