Here is a list of all the postings Romeo Whisky has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: NEW POLL - Does your club have a safety officer, or is the emphasis on individual members to each be their own safety officer?|
It is a pity that this poll assumes that the two are mutually exclusive, which in my view they should never be.
It implies that by having a Safety Officer everyone else in the Club can completey abdicate any responsibility for safe practice. That is surely an UNSAFE state of affairs.
In our Club the answer would be BOTH. (See Safety Matters page on our website dmfc.org.uk).
We have a Safety Officer who reports safety issues and violations to the Committee, but our Club Rules point out that safety is everybody's responsibility, and naturally there will be many times that the Safety Officer is not present at the field. Whether he is present or not is largely irrelevant as all members have a responsibility for safety, including tactfully and respectfully pointing out any potential dangerous practices they observe. Ours is a friendly club and members also seem to appreciate that correcting a friend takes courage as well as needing tact and respect, and I have heard members thank and apologise to the person who has pointed out safety issues to them.
|Thread: Famous model flyers|
I'm sure I've seen a photograph of the late Douglas Bader flying an RC model
|Thread: ESC for RC-Factory Crack Wing?|
I've just put my Crack Wing together, using the power setup supplied by the retailer. It's a 2100 Kv motor, GWS 7x3.5 prop and I'm using a Nanotech 2S 260mAh battery. The ESC supplied is a JP 6A, but I can't help wondering if the 6A ESC rating is man enough for this motor and prop on 2S.
I've got a wattmeter, but it's difficult to set up on so small a model, and especially a flying wing, so I'm wondering if anyone has one of these and can offer advice.
Alternatively are there any spreadhseet tools out there that enable you to input motor Kv , Voltage and prop size and give an accurate watts/amps result?
|Thread: Club Website?|
When I was asked to take on our Club's website, I trawled around a huge number of other clubs' websites to see how they looked and performed (speed of loading is important these days) and the info they contained, to come up with some idea of "best practice".
I found, inevitably, that they vary tremendously. There are some excellent ones out there and some dreadful ones (no names, no packdrill). There are also large numbers that look as though they haven't been updated for a very long time.
I have also found that there is a lot of work setting up and properly maintaining a decent website, so it is quite a commitment. Don't forget that in today's world websites must scale correctly because they can be viewed on everything from a small mobile phone screen to a massive full 4K TV screen.
A club website has to do two things:-
1. Be a "window" on to the Club for outsiders and prospective members and
2. Be of some informational service to existing members. (I do find myself wondering how many Club members ever visit their own club website, and if so, how often).
The first thing you need to do is to determine the content and develop a rough idea about how you want it to look. You can begin to do this using a Word Processor or Destop Publishing software. That will take time! Only when you've done that is the time to consider the hosting and backend issues. It is all a very interesting learning process, but quite time-consuming. You will (should) also find that it is an ongoing, somewhat iterative, process. Development should never really stop, as the internet world and its protocols etc are changing all the time, and websites that are not freshened up from time-to-time fall into disuse.
Of course, like so many things, opinions are very subjective, but I'll risk putting my head over the parapet and you are welcome to see our Club site at **LINK**
|Thread: Do you weigh your lipos (I think you should!)|
I always weigh them, always have - and I label them with the weight too.
I have found that batteries of supposedly the same brand, volyage, mAh, C rating and even identical labels, can vary in weight by up to 15g. Maybe not too relevant in bigger models but in flying wings and smaller models it can matter!
Similar capacity batteries from different brands can vary even more.
|Thread: Comper CLA-7 Swift|
|Thread: Motor mods to old Ripmax P-51 mustang ARF|
I think the 4-Max one should be fine. It's a bit lower Kv than the Mega, but I fly mine on half throttle all the time (which is much more scale-like anyway), so you should still have plently of power. The 5mm prop shaft on this motor will also be much better on a belly-lander than the 3.2mm on the one you've currently got in there.
Personally I wouldn't dream of putting an outrunner in mine - it's so clearly asking for an inrunner and I love the smoothness of them. (I've got one in my Overlander Tucano too - also originally designed for canned brushed 600). Of course I've got lots of outrunners in other models which were designed for them but still love the smoothness of inrunners.
The model flies beautifully on 3200 3S and can handle wind quite well. I usually launch mine off a dolly, but it is easy to hand launch too (though easier with a helper to hand launch it).
Ensure the ESC brake is off and it sets itself up into a nice glide angle for landing when you cut the throttle on finals. You don't want a heavy landing on that underbelly mock airscoop (although mine is still pristine after 12 years) so let it glide down softly. Whichever way you go, I hope you enjoy it.
PS. You can see mine flying on our Club Website: dmfc.org.uk. both in the Galleries and also if you click the navigation titles at the foot of each web-page the photos change.
Edited By Romeo Whisky on 19/10/2018 11:21:57
I see Robotbirds are stocking the excellent Mega motors (they're still pricey though), but 4-Max stock an "equivalent" 1500Kv inrunner for only about £30, which should be an easy fit as there doesn't appear to be anything protruding from the can side to prevent it being positioned exactly where you need it to be. Better clamp it tight though!
Mine is nearly 12 years old now and still flies well. I installed a Mega 22/20/3e 1500Kv Inrunner (fits perfectly) and 10x5 APC prop.
These motors are not cheap but beautifully smooth and powerful.
|Thread: Aviation Funnies|
My albums contain some cartoons I did for our Club Newsletter. Here's one of them.
|Thread: LiPo dimensions|
I'm sorry to say that BEB's answer is not the whole story. I recently ordered two more Turnigy 1500mAh 3S packs from HobbyKing to power my HobbyKing MX2 (a great £40 quid's worth by the way). The ones I ordered were (supposed to be) identical in specification to two I ordered a month or so ago for the same model.
The ones received this time were significantly larger and heavier than the two I got previously and yet the Turnigy labels were identical. The only way the new ones would fit into the model battery bay was by carving out a significant amount of the ply reinforcing, and the extra weight is a balancing issue too. So it is not just different brands or different specs which vary. They vary even within the the same brand and the same spec. Can be rather annoying.
|Thread: Help with first time electrics|
Well if you've never delved into electric flight before, I can understand it might seem something of a black art at first, but if you treat it as an interesting new learning curve which can add a new dimension to your modelling hobby, you may find you'll never look back.
I wrote a basic "starter" article on electric flight for our club website which you are welcome to view and download, at **LINK** and of course there are many other resources you can turn to as well. I'm sure there'll be lots of helpful advice on this very forum.
|Thread: Depth Perception.|
I realise this might be contentious to some, and a bit of a can of worms and all that, but, the very core of learning to pilot a model involves being able to fly it in all directions, including towards yourself. Otherwise you are a passenger for 50% of the flight and that is asking for disaster. Even if you have zero ambitions regarding aerobatic flight, you absolutely need to be in complete control of an upright model in a normal flight attitude, coming towards you. Only being able to fly going away from yourself isn't solo competent, I would contend. - Nigel R
Are you saying you're unable to detect whether a model is tracking straight on the runway from such a position? - Martin Harris
You both seem to be reading words into my post that aren't in there! Of course a competent pilot should be able to steer a model correctly when it's flying towards him. (I never said otherwise). That doesn't change the FACT that is more INTUITIVE when it's flying away from you, and this is undoubtedly easier for less experienced pilots (of which I am not). I also did not suggest standing BEHIND the model on take-of, or standing in the middle of the runway at the threshold end. Obviously the stance should be at the side of the runway, but at the threshold end - incidentally a principle I learnt from a very experienced club trainer some years ago.
David was aksing for help in respect of landing short or misjudging the threshold of the runway. My answer - which works - was meant for David and those like him who are having this difficulty is simply to stand closer to the threshold. Sorry if that offends the perfect pilots among us.
For reasons I have never heard explained, many clubs seem to place the pilot stance aside the middle of the runway.
It is actually much better to place the pilot stance near the runway threshold, as this means the model has the full runway length to take off without having to pass a central stance (potential danger) and rudder control is most intuitive when the pilot is behind the model. With regard to David's query about landing, it is also much easier to judge the runway threshold on landing when you are near to it, and spatial awareness issues are much less of a factor. Another benefit of this on landing, (as when taking off) is that as soon as the model has passed the threshold pilot stance it is flying away from you which means that the rudder direction is intuitive and flare-out is easier to judge too.
Of course this necessitates the pilot stance may need to be varied from day to day (indeed sometimes even during the day) in relation to wind direction, and there needs to be agreement between pilots as to where the stance should be, but this can easily be accommodated in Club Rules and basic field ettiquette.
|Thread: Battle of Britain: Model Squadron|
To me it was a bit like a typical club Scale Day with knobs on!
And actually I really enjoyed it for that. I was slightly taken aback that they couldn't have found a club site with a nice manicured grass strip (assuming they exist), but I suppose the bomb-dropping, smoke and other factors made it necessary to use MoD land.
But the big big positives as I see it, are that model flying was clearly portrayed as great fun, and for all age groups, and that it also a wonderfully social hobby with lots of friendly banter and mutual help, support and respect. That reflects exactly what our local club is like, so a near-perfect advert for model flying. The historical aspects were almost a bonus and an excuse for having great fun trying to fly scale-like and emulate the brave pilots of yesteryear.
I am only sorry that some colleagues posting above could only see negatives.
|Thread: Government Consultation on Drone Flying in the UK.|
I raised the issue that the proposed FINS app was effectively making it a legal requirement to own a smartphone (which I don't, and don't want, and bet others of our fraternity don't either). This would surely be a legal "bridge too far". I know of no other legislation which makes ownership of a smartphone a legal requirement. Totally unacceptable.
|Thread: Any groundsmen out there?|
Our Club has a lovely new flying field which is flat and well drained, but it is very rough grass, having been grazed by sheep for a long time. It is rough enough to rip undercarriages off on landing, and break the props and bend motor shafts on belly landers.
At this stage in the season we don't want to lose it altogether, for ploughing, rolling and reseeding, and we are mowing it regularly. We have also had it rolled, but although that has helped to flatten the lumps it has done nothing for the hollows and missing divots which can still stop a model dead on a landing run.
So what do we do? We've thought of sharp sand but the thought of sand getting into motors and engines is not appealing. If we did do that, how long before it would bed into the soil?
I'm wondering what a golf-course groundsman would do to make a smooth fairway or putting green of it in relatively short order (if that's possible)?
All practical ideas welcome.
|Thread: New TV Channel|
Interesting programme on PBS America TODAY (8th May) at 5.15pm on "The Search for the super battery".
The presentation is very "American" in style but don't be put off by that - the content is good.
And if you've never seen what happens when you damage or overcharge a LiPo, here's your chance!
There's a new TV Channel available called PBS America (Freeview 94, Sky 160, Virgin 276, Freesat 155).
Some really interesting Aviation series. One called "The Aviators" and another called "Air Warriors".
Seems to be a mix of US and Canadian material (as the name implies), but interesting just the same.
|Thread: WMWF Ullswater March 2018|
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