Here is a list of all the postings Romeo Whisky has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Any cheap recommended modelling foam|
Single-edge razor blades are great for straight cuts; #11 scalpel for curves. For glue I use hot glue gun or UHU POR. Remember foam-board is not rain or dew proof, so some packing tape around exposed edges is advised.
Like corrrugated cardboard the Proplex strength is in one direction only and it's very bendy along the internal corrugated flutes but stiff laterally, which you need to bear in mind when designing/building. You can slide a thin carbon rod down the flutes to make a stronger wing spar etc., although I didn't do this with the Chuckle as the tape gives extra strength and rigidity, and leaving it flexible gives it a slight dihedral in flight even though the wing is one flat piece of Proplex. When building, you need to be careful not to accidentally introduce a crease as that will be a weak point.
Hi Nigel - Proplex is similar to Correx but slightly thinner and lighter.
Here are pics of my foam-board "Upstart"
the motor mount is a Bovril jar lid
The Range also sell big sheets of foam-board - same price. Great for building really cheap models that fly well.
For small models you could also try Wickes Proplex corrugated plastic sheeting - £2.50 for a large sheet.
Here's my little "Chuckle" made from Proplex sheeting covered with coloured packing tape.
|Thread: Flat Car Battery from non-use of car|
Thanks guys, info much appreciated. I always keep jump leads in the car as it's an auto, but cannot get another car very close to where I have to park it at home.
Also I can't easily use a trickle charger as there is no power point handy and the driveway is open plan. The idea of using one of my lipo chargers set to Lead Acid and powered by a Lipo is certainly an option I hadn't thought of.
I realised that taking it for a drive once a week is the obvious answer, and have done that with my wife's car, but as we depend on various neighbours to bring us food essentials I don't want them to get the wrong impression that we are flouting the govt rules. I also don't know how the local stasi would respond if I explained that's what I'm doing.
While we're on that subject I don't understand why plod is harrassing people exercising or walking dogs when they are clearly well above two metres away from anyone else. Don't they realise that for many people the beach or countryside is their local area?
Like many on this forum, I am over 70 and therefore under "house arrest" for the duration. One thing that's worrying me is that my car - an automatic - has been standing on the drive outside, with the alarm (and other electronics?) steadily draining the battery. I have no means of charging the battery "off-line".
So I have two questions for "me learned friends" ...
1. When a car is not driven for some time, how long before the battery goes flat, assuming battery is in good condition, and was charged on a 30 mile journey prior to lockdown?
2. Is it possible to use a 3S 3200 LiPo (or perhaps two in parallel) to jump-start the car if its battery does go flat? (And how would you set that up?)
|Thread: CAA ID number discussion|
Announced in the newspaper this morning, UK is pulling out of EASA.
|Thread: Is this weather ever going to get better!!!!!!!!!!!!!|
Just trying to lift the spirits!
|Thread: Web Cam?|
Posted above by PatMc
" Do the same regulations apply if the camera only relays live images with no recording is being made ? "
I think you'll find that the problem is capturing personal data (in this case an image) without the subject's knowledge and consent and relaying it anywhere where it can be viewed by a third party. You would not be able to control whether the third party records it or not in any case. But don't rely on my opinion - if you Google "GDPR" and check out the rules re CCTV on the Data Protection website you'll get the full facts.
Sorry to be a wet blanket - but presumably you do know that this has implications for GDPR (Data Protection Law)?
If you take photos of identifiable people in this way you must have a prominent notice to say "CCTV in Operation on this site", which rather negates the benefits of hiding the camera, and could be interpreted to indicate that there are potentially items worth stealing if protected by CCTV.
You could get the consent of members to allow this, but it would not cover visitors, or even intruders on to the site.
We plan to focus a camera purely on the windsock which is only up when members are on site, but would also indicate if there was fog or mist even if no-one is present.
Edited By Romeo Whisky on 09/02/2020 11:38:44
|Thread: Bit Bewildered|
This might help too.
|Thread: Trendsetters and Iconic Models over the Years?|
Edited By Romeo Whisky on 20/01/2020 13:46:14
|Thread: ESC overheating.|
One point to note is that there are two primary types of brushless speed controller - linear and switch-mode.
Most (though not all) larger (40A+) amp ESCs these days are switch-mode; most smaller ones (<=25A) are still linear. Those in between may be either and it's worth buying switch-mode for preference.
Linear ESCs run hotter than switch-mode and usually incorporate a larger heat-sink. It is also true that all ESCs can get warm in use, so most incorporate a thermal cut-out, and you REALLY want to avoid that happening in flight so you need to ensure adequate air-flow over the ESC when the model is in flight.
It is also true that ESCs have to dissipate more heat when running at half throttle, and this is one reason why it important to use an ESC with plently of ampage headroom (ie. suggest 25% bigger than the maximum likely amps draw at full throttle).
Hope that helps.
|Thread: CAA announce New drone trials !|
Thought you might enjoy this ...
|Thread: Club badges|
|Thread: take off dolly|
Just seen your post and that no-one had come up with a response.
I would have thought it was possible to make a dolly for any size model. In WW2 the germans used them for full-sized aircraft. I don't have any models that big, but I would think that you could upscale my dolly design which works well. The main thing is to keep the dolly as light as possible, with big wheels for minimum rolling resistance and a fixed tailwheel (NOT castored). Be ready to input plenty of right rudder on the take-off run as torque effect may make it swing to the left (the full-size P40 was a bit of a pig in that respect I understand - hence the big rudder).
Hope this helps.
|Thread: Plane storage ?|
No idea if this would work in a really damp large space, but I've found it works great for other areas where condensation is an issue.
Get a few bags of silca gel cat litter from Home Bargains (you get a large bag for a couple of quid). You can make smaller bags of it up using fine netting such as old net curtains (shake the dust out outside) . Then you can put a bag of it inside each airframe. Also works quite well on the rear parcel shelf of car to help reduce inside condensation on car windows overnight.
Tip... Avoid the brands of silica gel which are perfumed!
|Thread: The "drooling" stage?|
I wonder how many are like me in this respect.
When I've just got a brand new model (especially a WW2 warbird), I always seem to go through what I call "the drooling stage", where I just keeping looking at it and admiring it. During this stage I make all sorts of excuses not to fly it, such as the length of the grass, wind speed and direction, multiple bench-testing - anything to avoid having to risk flying it for at least a couple of weeks or so.
Of course eventually the deed has to be done and that's fine, but hardly ever without the hobby-room drooling stage coming first.
Is it just me?
|Thread: CAA BMFA|
As Webmaster for my club, I have started to consider what textual changes I need to make for the benefit of prospective new members visiting our website. I have experimented with numerous forms of words (not yet posted on the website) to make the legal requirement to register and take a test seem as innoccuous and painless as possible. However my personal conclusion is that however it is worded, this legislation is going to prove to be a disastrous disincentive for newcomers to get involved in our wonderrful hobby. It's not just the annual £9.00, it's also a pair of legal hoops to jump through and a hassle during which the possibility of legal penalties is raised. If I were a potential newbie considering model flying as a hobby, it would undoubtedly put me off.
That said, I think all clubs need to make it crystal clear that obedience to the law is a personal and individual obligation, and that in no way can the club be implicated in or liable for non-compliance by any member or visitor to the Club. Whether a club wishes to police the regulations is a matter for them, but in doing so they need to be careful not to be, or appear to be, in any way complicit or negligent in any situation involving a member or visitor who has bypassed or otherwise dodged the club's vetting processes and failed to comply.
|Thread: NEW POLL - do you use a throttle kill switch?|
Thanks Steve - yes, that's the other way to get around the issue. Ive tried both. Doesn't seem to matter which method you use, as both work. Important thing is to be aware that the throttle cut setting and throttle stick minimum value are the same to avoid a sudden unexpected motor start.
There is little doubt IMO that using a Throttle Cut switch is a hugely worthwhile safety factor on electric powered models. However a word of warning .... I use Spektrum (DX9) and found that with some ESC's there can be a danger of the electric motor bursting into life as soon as the throttle switch is turned off.
Throttle cut sets the throttle at -130 on the DX9 and reverts to -100 when the switch is turned off (with the throttle stick at bottom). However it seems some ESCs read the off position (-130) as their initialisation registration point when powered up, so that when you switch the TC switch off, it thinks -100 is actually +30. It is therefore important to ensure that the throttle stick TRIM button is set to the very bottom rather than at the centre point. When this is done it all works OK and the danger of an unexpected start is averted.
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