Here is a list of all the postings Adam Reay has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Fournier rf-4 electric conversion?|
|I have decided to abandon my idea of making a GRP cowling because I have worked out how to make a balsa cowling that leaves enough room for a cooling airflow for the motor. The cowling will be held in place by small magnets and is registered, as shown on my latest build photos, by making F1 former out of TWO thicknesses of 1/8" (instead of a single 1/4"). The second piece F1a, has the motor mount on it around which the cowling frame is built, then the central square portion is cut free allowing the cowling to slide off, then the central portion with motor attached is glued accurately onto F1. When complete the cowling will locate positively around the central square portion of F1a and will click into place on its magnets.|
|I have added a couple of photos to my build album showing the EMP C3536 motor mount from Giant Cod which is within a couple of millimetres of the perfect length.|
|Thread: Fournier rf-4 electric conversion?|
This is a link to what is meant. Definitely a film.
This is a link to Solartex. Definitely a fabric
Thanks for your helpful advice. The Phoenix has a nylon fuselage and the steel wing bolts go into captive nuts in the fuse making a very rigid assembly, but if I have a bad crash the wing will be the first thing to break. A sacrificial wooden peg is a much better concept.
|See the Phoenix wing in my Fournier build album above.|
My Phoenix 2000 high wing powered glider has four bolts to hold the wing on and I assumed I would have to ensure that a single dowel instead of two forward bolts on the Fournier would have to be a very tight fit. Glad to hear the dowel arrangement will be safe.
Thanks for these very useful photographs. You model is much further advanced than mine. I am still waiting for the 0.8mm ply reinforcement before I can finish the fuselage.
I made the mistake of building the rear fuselage up to F5 former and didn't notice a slight twist that I have built in. I was too impatient to start.
What is your opinion of the wing mounting arrangement? The two bolts at the rear and a single pin at the front doesn't seem very secure. How did you do it?
I have assembled the main bits of the new 'plane from items I already had apart form the spinner and 9x6 prop. The "timber" arrives to morrow and it will be time to start on a long journey.
I'm fortunate that I have had experience of GRP when I owned a big sailing boat and had to do repairs occasionally, but I admit, nothing as small as this. I will keep you informed.
Elsewhere in these blogs someone moved the bulkhead forward by 40mm. Your wooden block is another way to place the motor mount in the correct place.
I also have been thinking about cooling. A scale cowling not made from balsa block would help in getting air to the motor. It's early days and I don't need to decide yet but I think I could make a cowling in GRP scrim (not chopped strand mat) by carving a dummy nose in polystyrene foam and then laying up a thin GRP cowling on top of the plug. After the foam core has been removed the cowling would need to be trimmed, filled and sanded to the required finish.
|Decision made! I'm going for a 9x6 and a 1400Kv motor. To modify the fuselage for electric power I am working back from the nose. Now that I know the motor dimensions and the motor mount I can determine the position of the forward bulkhead. At first glance it seems it will be about an inch further forward than the drawing shows.|
Peter says his I/C model flies on a 9X6 fixed prop. It seems there is a power discrepancy because the BL2820 brushless motor is matched to a 12x6 or an 11x7. I must look into this a bit more before I commit to a motor and matching power train.
|Thread: Building my new Fournier RF-4|
There are 2 sheets with the model shown full size. I hadn't realised that the magazine plan is a single sheet. I have an image of the right wing only and I intend to trace the image onto the back of the sheet to build the left wing. I couldn't do that easily with a double sided plan, so you have answered my question.
Thanks for the welcome. You'll find me chipping in quite often in the days to come.
I have one gripe to get off my chest, speaking as an Aberdonian. I have just paid more than £12 for a set of plans for my Fournier but if I had bought a back issue of the magazine it would cost less than half. Also, by buying the plans without the mag I can't follow the comment "See text" on the drawing. I seem to have missed a trick somewhere!
|Good. I'm going to start building right away. I have been flying ready made foamies for the last two years but I started to feel an urge to get glue on my fingers once again.|
I have just bought the plans for the 1880mm Fournier RF-4 but before I commit to building one with an electric motor I just wonder how a folding prop can operate without hitting the very wide cheek radiators.
I believe that the prop will fold OK when power is cut, but when power is opened up again and the blades start to spin once more I think they will hit the radiators before centrifugal force had a chance to swing the blades clear.
I have a Radian and it seems that the spinner and prop are exactly what I need for the Fournier so I built a mock up of the radiators and stuck them onto my Radian and that is when I first spotted the potential problem.
Can anyone put my mind at rest?
Edited By Adam Reay on 07/11/2011 15:54:21
Edited By David Ashby - RCME Admin on 07/11/2011 16:03:54
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