Here is a list of all the postings David P Williams has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Laser Engines - Technical questions|
Forgot to say - pay attention to correct baffling for cooling. As you know the scale air inlet is on the wrong side as the prop rotates the opposite way to the full size Gipsy Major. Easy to reverse for electric of course.
Also - if you think you might go electric anyway and sell the Laser on, don't run it until you've made the decision. If it hasn't already been run it may be worth a bit more as NIB unrun.
I'm sure you won't need to bother with any complicated plumbing with the Chipmunk, there's plenty of room to mount the tank at the correct height.
I have a Laser 150 in my 1/5 Chipmunk. Initially, I had the tank where the kit position was and it would run fine for take off and about four circuits, then refuse to throttle up and gradually die. I moved the tank down by 20 - 25mm or so to the position recommended by Jon at Laser and it has been totally reliable ever since.
Just have the carb spraybar level with the top half of the tank and the vent facing forward, and all will be well. It will sound great, and if you use the new low oil Laser 5% mix from Model Technics there will be hardly anything to clean off the airframe.
|Thread: What's flying over your house|
This afternoon's treat was an A400 at literally treetop height almost straight over the house. It's usually Chinooks or Hercules, and they're often in pairs at 11 or 12 at night.
|Thread: Panther Trainer Autogyro|
Andy - at the top of this page click on the first Article -
info for builders of RCM&E's March 2013 free plan
Then click for the Head Assembly plan. Rich did a design for a built up wooden head - you just need to buy a couple of bearings and a length of silver steel.
Edited By David P Williams on 14/08/2020 16:09:40
|Thread: Laser Engines development.|
OK I'm up for the 30cc multi glow then, much more interesting than the single petrol.
I'd be happy to fly the WWXL without a cowl, unless you want to check cooling etc on a cowled engine. I'm glow only at the moment, so if it was the 180 petrol I'd have to run it on Aspen cos of the stink.
Jon - I have a Wots Wot XL that currently has a Saito 180 glow ( nasty thing that tries to shake itself and the airframe to bits). I was thinking of re-engining it anyway, so I would be very happy to use this as a testbed for whichever of your projects you think suitable for this model.
|Thread: DB Hurricane paint and finish.|
I use this - they sell a matting agent too so you can mix from gloss through satin to matt. It's always worked well for me, last model sprayed striaght over enamel no problem, even with a small amount of cellulose thinners.
|Thread: The great i.c. / electric finger chopping debate|
Yep, drifted too far. I promised myself I wouldn't feed the troll, but I got sucked in.
I can smell glow fuel all day and I'm fine. The smell of petrol, however, makes me nauseous. I have had petrol models and the smell in the car going to and from the club, and the smell in the workshop, is intolerable to me. Not everyone is the same - different people have different reactions to things. So I'm 'saying it is' - nothing to do with smoking, and I'm definitely not PC.
|Thread: Two Wings and a Round Engine|
Slow progress. No indication of where and how to locate servos in the instructions, just a note that anyone building this will have previous experience so these details are left to the modeller. Well I do have a fair bit of previous experience, but the combination of a cavernous fuselage with no obvious mounting points, a desire to keep the cockpit areas clear for some scale-ish detail, and the feeling that fitting an engine that is twice as heavy as the one recommended in the kit instructions meant a lot of agonising and guesswork.
I thought I would probably need the servos and batteries fairly far rearward (similar builds on other forums have put them in the rear cockpit area) so decided to make the 'baggage' hatch behind the rear cockpit operational. I could have the rudder and elevator servos mounted lowish in that area, possibly batteries above, along with switches hidden away in there too.
So - here's where it's up to -
Servos look a bit lost in there.
Next up are elevators and rudder, hingeing and control run sorting, then a start on the wings and centre section.
Pleasantly impressed with the fit and finish of parts so far.
|Thread: New EDF Mini Jets- Jet Provost & Folland Gnat|
I have three of these 50mm edf units ordered from Banggood as 'FMS 50mm 3S', in two seperate orders. I didn't inspect them closely.
The two that came together are marked FMS and have 5400kv motors, and one of them is fitted in my mostly built Provost and untried as yet apart from checking that it actually runs.
The one that came on its own is actually a Powerfun unit with a 4900 kv motor.
|Thread: Bristol Blenheim Mk1V|
I keep thinking about making a vac form box. Would something like this be suitable or are there not enough holes? would it be good as a starting point for drilling more holes?
Edited By David P Williams on 11/06/2020 10:38:44
|Thread: Two Wings and a Round Engine|
A lot of headscratching and not much progress. Sorted out a (hopefully) strong enough but lightweight support structure for the fuel tank that should accommodate the largest tank I may need, and smaller ones with padding. I think it will need modifying to site the onboard glow unit without having to lengthen the leads too much.
I didn't like the spindly look of the piano wire tailwheel leg, so I 3D printed some covers. They may not survive any flexing of the leg, but we'll see.
I didn't like the suggestion of an arrangement of soldered on washers and steel plates which would have had to be soldered in situ. With my poor soldering skills I would have either had poor joints or solder running into the tube, or both. So I fired up the lathe and turned up some collets and a combined collet/steering arm.
Not true scale, but looks a bit better than plain wire I think.
I also turned up a domed spinner for the engine.
I've now assembled everything I need to test run the engine, just need to knock up a mount/test stand.
Next I need to sort out servo, battery and receiver location and mounting before I restrict access by adding the top fuselage stringers.
|Thread: Boulton & Paul Defiant|
Yes, a prominent piece in The Times also plus a leading article, triggered by the publication of a book 'Defiant: The Untold Story of the Battle of Britain' by Robert Verkaik.
|Thread: SLEC Chipmunk build blog|
Well done Tim, they're lovely to fly aren't they? Mine is pretty porky with all the extra scale detail but still flies beautifuly with its Laser 150.
|Thread: Warbirds Replicas P51 Mustang|
I'm really tempted - I built your Spitfire which was great, and I love P51s, but I'm generally into slightly larger stuff now so I think I'll wait to see what your idea for the Laser boys turns out to be.
|Thread: Two Wings and a Round Engine|
Thanks Jon - someone else on my club has a Flair Stearman, and he's been pretty helpful with tank info. He made the front instrument panel removeable along with the cockpit floor and can slide the tank in and out that way, so that's my current plan. Wouldn't work with a Tiger Moth, but this thing's AMERICAN sized.
BTW his hasn't flown. It has a Saito 180 and he reckons it's not enough power to make him want to try to heave it off the ground. He has other engines to choose from so he's fitting either a 360V or an ASP 400 radial converted to petrol.
Progress - the balsa for fuselage longerons is supplied in 36" or 915mm lengths, but they need to be around 48" or 1200mm long, so lots of scarfe joint splicing required.
The lower half of the fuselage is built upside down on the plan on the main longerons, starting with the engine/undercarriage/cabane/lower wing mounting structure.
followed by the remaining former lower sections and seventeen longerons. Everything fitted perfectly, resulting in this
Next step is to remove from the board, turn over, fit the former top halves and complete the upper longerons.
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