Here is a list of all the postings David P Williams has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Forum members' new models: Let's see them.|
Excellent David - just love Chippies...
|Thread: matt fuelproofer|
Yes, thinned with cellulose thinners - it says small amounts <10%. I sprayed my Chipmunk with this, using the matting agent mixed to satin, over enamel, homemade waterslide decals and dry transfers and it's been fine. Not using high nitro stuff though - just Lasermix 5.
Dougie - see my earlier post - Aerokote works fine, it's from Deluxe Materials and available direct from them, or most model shops and online stores sell it. £10.25 plus £5.75 for the matting agent.
For firewalls and engine/tank bay I use Zap Finishing Resin - thin enough to brush on OK.
|Thread: A sticky glassing problem!|
Don - PolyC isn't the pond sealer stuff as far as I know. It seems the same as Deluxe Materials EZE Coat, like a clear polyurethane varnish with added stickiness (PVA?). I've used it for ages for glass coating sheeted airframes and it works really well and as Percy says is easier, odourless and cleans up with water. It seems to be fuel resistant rather than fuel proof as claimed but my glassed surfaces are always painted and fuel proofed anyway.
|Thread: Linkage rod to horn connection|
In my experience the standard rods threaded 2mm at one end are usually only 1.6mm diameter. The thread is rolled not cut which raises it to 2mm, but it is impossible to cut a 2mm thread on the other end.
|Thread: First petrol plane dl 50 field equipment|
Nice idea Cymaz but the list of rules that must be followed so as not to upset the landowner is long, so I doubt that would be allowed.
Yes but I'm an I/C chap, I don't recharge batteries on site. I think I will have to have a stake in the grass at the back of the tarmac and a looong strap to the starting point but I'm sure someone will trip over it. Or maybe I can somehow secure to my flightbox which may be heavy enough.
Just wondered if anyone else had come across the same problem.
I've just joined a second club, where the flying is off tarmac and the pits area is tarmac too. My main club is all on grass so I use the Y spike usually, with a larger, more robust version with bigger spike for larger models.
What do you suggest I use to restrain models on the hard surface? I've seen other members there just start their models on a flat table holding with one hand - scary.
|Thread: Seagull Mosquito weight|
Full size Chipmunk is 15deg mid and 30deg full flap, so more lift than drag?
|Thread: S1581 Hawker Nimrod MkI|
Yes but a couple of minutes with a larger drill could provide something useable for those with no lathe.
Danny - would these from the same website be any use?
|Thread: JR resurrection?|
A nice Focke Wulf 149 in the background Peter. When I worked at Spanhoe airfield the boss had one of those as his personal aircraft, still in Luftwaffe olive green. Had several trips in it - great aircraft. Always fun hearing the reaction of ATC when calling "Focke Wulf 149 inbound........"
|Thread: Getting in a flap|
Steve - I think the default channel assignment for a two aileron two flap wing is RAil channel 2 (Ail), LAil channel 6 (Aux1), Lflap channel 5 (Gear) and RFlap channel 7 (Aux2).
|Thread: Mini/micro lathe|
Another website to keep an eye on is homeworkshop, a sort of BMFA Classifieds for engineering stuff. There's a Seig C3 on there at the moment, but might be a bit big for what you're after.
|Thread: 1/6 Westland Whirlwind|
Dave - Balsa Cabin have them here
|Thread: Wing walkways|
The full sized Chipmunk I was modelling had ribbed thin rubber sheet for walkways. I used thin Plasicard and scribed lines into it with the back of a broken scalpel blade, sprayed matt black. I carved a scale 'boot' from foam and used it to stamp muddy footprints along the walkway.
|Thread: Modelling Board / Pin Board.|
Yes Richard, what you're describing is Sundeala. It's good, but expensive. I used to use it but now use plasterboard like the other chaps - just as good and waaay cheaper. Fixed the old Sundeala on the walls of my wife's artist's studio so she can pin up her masterpieces.
|Thread: Panther autogyro head kit|
Allan - I'm slowly building a Panther, and bought the Sarik laser cut parts (some parts not supplied) and the additional wood kit which is a waste of money - no material for blades, but lots of 3mm balsa, much more than needes. I downloaded the head kit drawing from here - the Genesis V2 head as Rich Harris calls it. Bought bearings and Bolts from Modelfixings, and silver steel and brass tube from Maccmodels and the fibreglass delta plate from Coolwind. Coolwind also have a gearbox with prop adaptor that you can use instead of making a head block. I have a lathe, so I made the stationery block from ally rather than laminated ply but it's fairly simple to make and all works fine.
Just need some smaller grubscrews for the retaining collar!
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