Here is a list of all the postings Cuban8 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Holding screws in|
A cut down servo grommet works well, the round type rather than rectangular Futaba ones. Full grommets hold cowls in place without losing screws as well.
|Thread: Saito and OS engine servicing|
Interesting insight, Jon. More power to your elbow.
What! £82 all in? Labour and parts? Your margin must be miniscule and hardly worth the bother, but I applaud your actions.
I worked as an in-house repair tech for a few years, back in the 90s - working on electrical supply test equipment and associated accessories like printers etc for a UK distributor. The minimum charge then was IIRC £125 and that was just to open the box and put the kit on the bench. Courier charges extra.
Edited By Cuban8 on 23/04/2019 13:21:48
Never owned a Saito but OS singles and their clones are quite straightforward to work on. As we find with certain radio repairs, unless the item is toward the top of the range, even a simple repair quickly becomes uneconomic to get fixed professionally, given labour at around the £50 per hour mark. Even worse with some engines, because of strip down time, cleaning, inspection, repair, reassembly and test. Then add VAT and postage on top. I'm not surprised that some companies will over-quote on out of warranty repairs......there's very little, if anything, in it for them
If it's just bearings that need attention, it's not that complex for most modellers to undertake themselves with just a few good quality tools to hand - and there's plenty of help available if you do run into a snag.
Edited By Cuban8 on 22/04/2019 07:23:22
|Thread: Understanding the numbers....|
I bought my first telemetry rx a couple of years ago and got anxious about what it was telling me, despite a solid range check at 40 metres and never having a sign of a problem when flying. Spektrum's advice for analysing the data is pretty vague and mostly unhelpful I feel. I spoke with a club mate who had been using telemetry on his dx8 with all his recent models and he was suspicious of how valid some of the info is. He range checks carefully without reference to telemetry and pays attention to keeping frame loss to a minimum on a flight test, but the figures do vary so it's difficult to make exact sense of what's happening. The RSSI alarm setting is puzzling as advice to where to set it is again quite vague. I guessed 30% and the thing was bleeping like a maniac throughout a solidly controlled flight and went totally loopy when taxying out to take off, so a bit worrying. I have it set to 10% now and it only gives an occasional random beep. I have never noticed a hold when flying or had one recorded in the data.
|Thread: Thunder Tiger Manual|
Jon, with your permission,I'm going to print this off and pin it to our club hut's notice board - needle twiddlers/dead stick artists will be directed to it .......................
|Thread: for fast electic is supreme|
Wow! very impressive .................but not the sort of thing (to me) that you'd want to spend all day watching.
|Thread: How do you buy your Balsa?|
I bought a Master Airscrew Balsa stripper last year and find it works really well. I suppose the largest it'd cope with is 1/2" X 1/4" or thereabouts - depends on the wood density. As small as you like at the other end of the scale. 10/10 for rib capstrips and the like.
I keep very little balsa stock because Balsa Cabin is nearby and I pass them at least once a week, or just a twenty minute drive away if I can't wait. Any balsa that I have kept in the past doesn't do well in an unheated garage where humidity over winter causes problems, and equally, tends to dry out because of central heating when kept indoors. Have an extensive collection of hardware that usually comes up with what I need for most builds though.
Plenty of on-line suppliers offering next day delivery if I run short of something. The trouble with 'keeping stock' is that one tends to buy too much of what one turns out to not need that often, and unless you're ultra organised, you can easily forget what you've got (think of all those 'lucky finds' when searching for something else)
Whatever works for the individual, as always.
Pete C .......I get to see the ladies at BC putting the orders together, they are very good at their job and experts when it comes to selecting the material............unashamed advert for them
Edited By Cuban8 on 16/04/2019 08:54:27
|Thread: Please answer the following two questions if you can.|
All part of the great variety of the hobby. For me, I suppose a model is split typically 30:70 between actual construction and the flying. Building is not quite a simple means to an end for yours truly, but I always have that first flight in my mind's eye. As David Boddington once said in one of his TV appearances "the model is only good in the air". Drilling down a little further in terms of the build, for me, a similar split of say 40:60 between the actual balsa bashing and the arty bit of detailing and finish. People who just build and either don't fly the model at all, or get someone else to fly it for them do puzzle me a bit, but if that's what gives them their pleasure then that's brilliant.
|Thread: NEW POLL - Does your club have a safety officer, or is the emphasis on individual members to each be their own safety officer?|
All our club members are issued with a copy of the club rules and safety codes (sent annually on renewal) and it is a signed condition of membership that individuals are conversant with the contents of those documents and will abide by them. Individual members are quite at liberty to suggest changes to the rules or safety procedures and these will be considered by the committee and if agreed, implimented.
The book of rules is not set in stone like some some religious or political dogma and will need reviewing from time to time because of changing technology or anything else. An effective committee, engaged members, good communications and everyone working for the benefit of everyone else, works for us.
|Thread: Burn Crispy Aviators|
I gave up watching HIGNFY a couple of years ago, but just took a peek at the micky take of your club's mag on iPlayer. Thank heavens they didn't pick on BMFA News! Oh well, they say any publicity is good publicity - or something like that.
Has 'Plastics and Rubber Weekly' (now defunct engineering trade paper, before you get worried) ever featured?
Good to see at the end that Dimbleby is still sore over you-know-what...........that did make me laugh
|Thread: Examiners Workshop?|
As a F/W club examiner, I attended one of the first workshops held a few years ago and although they were clearly ironing out a few issues with presentation, it was a worthwhile day out and I'm sure you'll find your time well spent. I'm due to attend another one soon to keep up to speed.
|Thread: Lost radio contact|
Absolutely right, in fact I'd add another NEVER to your NEVER EVER . Just one other thing that's worth checking with batteries that connect to the TX via a Molex connector or similar is to disconnect the connector and remate it fairly regularly. Purely a precaution but worth doing if you can get to the connector easily. Many of these connectors are not gold flashed as they used to be on older equipment (cost?) and can oxidize if kept in a humid environment. Once a year is fine, say when you're checking the battery's capacity. Seen something similar just a few weeks ago with a friend's model and a dodgy servo that turned out to be a poor connection at a servo extension lead connector with tinned crimps.
|Thread: Disposing of modelling goods?|
These 'disposal auctions' are becoming more common as time marches on, and very sadly, I know of five local modellers who have died within the last year. A couple of collections have been valuable, in particular, expensive engines that have never seen the light of day have gone for good money. Boxes of twenty years old two strokes, even in good nick will only sell for a fraction of their original price, unless they're something really special. Complete and ready to fly models usually bring a reasonable sum, but a chap's collection of crashed airframes that were waiting for repair are a lost cause. Ditto, old batteries, fuel tanks, wheels, scraps of covering and of course.....35meg radio gear.
Mostly, and I apologise for being blunt, what's offered is usually just the detritus that many of us have festering in cupboards and under benches, in the hope that it'll come in handy one day - it rarely does, but somehow gives us a connection with past good times and that makes us feel good. I have an ever increasing plastic bag full of balsa and ply off-cuts that I might dip into it now and again, but really, it's just full of rubbish. I hate seeing a mate's worthless stuff being raked over like old clothes at a jumble sale, so I'd urge those good people who have taken on the job of dealing with a modeller's gear, to think carefully about what's offered.
Edited By Cuban8 on 06/04/2019 09:55:24
The 40 FP was a popular beginners motor and as you say, we're looking back to the 1990s with that one. What you're describing was not uncommon IIRC, but I'm sure the issue will ease itself as the motor gets some running time. Good advice to fit some wet and dry to stop the prop driver slipping, also make sure you give it a firm flick (with a chicken stick) when starting by hand, being a tad tentative can cause them to bite back.Just one other thing, I'd really ditch the castor mix fuel, it's horrible stuff and will gum up the innards in no time. Quite why we stuck with it for so long, I really don't know. Go fully synthetic, same overall oil content and 5% nitro. They're good little engines, I had one for years in a sport model and it just ran and ran.
Edited By Cuban8 on 02/04/2019 17:56:19
Hi Alan and welcome to the fun factory.
Good advice above, but please tell us what model you have. You might get away with flying it yourself if it's a smallish foamy electric with all the stabilization gizmos, and you have a suitable flying area (don't forget insurance) but TBH even those models need a bit of experienced assistance to iron out the bugs and get them flying nicely. We can certainly assist you here, and hopefully, have you avoid many of the common mistakes that many beginners make when starting out.
If you can find a club to visit and take your model along to, I'm sure they'd be most eager to help and set you on the right track. You can always decide whether club life is for you or not later. Take a peek at the BMFA club finder Club Finder
A dozen clubs show as being within a reasonable drive of central Rotherham.
Edited By Cuban8 on 01/04/2019 13:02:43
|Thread: A sticky glassing problem!|
Gary, I've seen those programmes as well and the same thought has occurred to me. I don't know the answer. What I can say through experience, is that Polyester resin is nasty and unpleasant, is very bad for the skin and will give you a headache or even dizziness if you breath in the fumes for too long. I like polyester car body filler, but I'd only use it in the garage and with the door wide open. It stinks and the smell lingers on your clothing for ages.
I've mentioned before that a friend of mine who used to make polyester glass fuselages for one of the big name suppliers in the 1980s, did serious damage to the lining of his nasal passages because of working in an enclosed, heated room for extended periods whilst laying up glider fuselages. I don't know of any problems associated with the sensible use of epoxy resins, other than by prolonged skin contact. AFAIA, I've not suffered any problems when working indoors with epoxy from its odour, and I have to say that I've not always been particularly careful about ventilation during winter.
Epoxy doesn't suit everyone and I'm pleased that Percy has found an alternative that suits him. However.......epoxy is not necessarily the devil's venom that he makes it out to be and it does give an excellent finish that accepts all manner of paint. When applied and correctly cured it remains stable for years. I'd never touch polyester resin unless I was making a cowl or something similar and could work outside. All my epoxy glassing is carried out indoors, because it has very low odour and is not (to me) unpleasant. Don't get it on your hands though, it will irritate your skin. As for mess, well, it's just a case of good working practice. I'm not a particularly tidy worker (as Mrs C8 keeps reminding me) but I do get my act together when glassing.
I don't know why the OPs resin hasn't gone off fully. Several possibilities - stale resin, improperly stored resin, contamination, poor mixing, inaccurate measuring and a few others. I've only had one instance of that problem years ago with SP113 and I suspect the stuff had been sitting around on the model shop's shelf for ages. IIRC it was on a wing bandage for a foam wing and I think I got away with the problem by wiping the job down fully with a meths soaked cloth several times and then recoating with fresh resin, keep the job nice and warm for a few days and with luck, you'll be ok. Not ideal though, and on an area that requires a good surface finish, you might not get away with it.
I always use resins that require a 1.1 mix to keep things simple and my product of choice is from Bob Smith Industries, that you can get from various suppliers and even Hobbyking. I will give Poly C a try, I'm not averse to new techniques, and the water based nature of it sounds attractive.
Edited By Cuban8 on 31/03/2019 10:17:15
|Thread: RIOT - why 2.4 GHz only|
35 gear too big to fit? Nonsense. I still have a couple of Hitec full range 35 meg mini RXs that are smaller than most of my 2.4 gear. I also have a tiny (for its time) Futaba 35 meg RX that is almost as small. A shame that none of this gear along with several other examples of the old tech that I have stored away will never get used again by me.
If anyone can use them let me know.
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