Here is a list of all the postings kc has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Airsail Auster A09 Plans|
There is another AOP9 plan at slightly larger size - 81 inch - available from Sarik. ( was Traplet )
|Thread: Slingsby T67 Firefly|
Redex, it would be a good idea to calculate the average wing chord and allow for the sweepback of the LE on your model then calculate the theoretical CG position. Erfolgs model might not be the same kit as yours ( Erfolg mentions both BillKits and Bobs models) or it could have different sweepback of the LE from standard as he didn't build it.
BillKits have a Facebook page so you could ask them what the CG should be. But it should be marked on the plan- if any supplied- if not mentioned in the instructions.
By " retro fit" flaps I presume you would just do this electronically at the TX using different Rx channels for each aileron.
|Thread: Martin Baker MB5|
I think it was not Rojair but Flywel Models of Barnstaple who did a kit for the Martin Baker in the 1980's. They also did a Turbulent kit. Review of the Flywel MB5 in RCModelWorld January 1985. Model was 62 inch for a .60
Shouldn't somebody do a new design for an MB5 soon?
Edited By kc on 08/07/2020 12:02:20
|Thread: Need some help please|
New in box will fetch the best prices because that's what collectors want. Don't turn them over or anything!
I think Gildings have the most well known auctions for model engines and it may well be worth bringing the engines too them if they are collectors items.
Edited By kc on 07/07/2020 18:33:05
Yes thats right Gildings not Goulding! The most famous model engine auctions I think. Their website shows the possibility of a video valuation which seems a good idea at the present,
Dont forget that 'new in box' puts the price up a lot so ensure the boxes are present.
As regards model planes, bear in mind that unstarted kits may well be worth quite a lot but the built models won't be worth much unless of super scale museum quality. So kits could go on Ebay, while you might find that selling the built models direct to someone who will fly them and appreciate the work your father put into them is far more satisfying seeing them go to a good home. Taking them one or two at a time to his local club might sell them to good homes. Value of ordinary models is just a bit more than the value of the radio , servos and engines they contain.
You need sombody expert to check what these engines really are. Somebody trustworthy who won't just buy them cheaply and sell them on! Rare engines sell at very high prices at specialist auctions ( Gouldings comes to mind as the name) That Nano miight well be the sort of thing to auction. On the other hand run of the mill used engines have quite a modest value but as they are not being made in quantity now they may become more worthwhile. So selling the ordinary items individually on E-bay or direct to local aeromodellers might be the best.
Get them sorted into used common engines and those unused like new in boxes or rare.
|Thread: Junior 60 Kitset|
Hidden amongst the Outerzone comments on the Junior 60 is a link to a book called The Big Four which contains an article explaining the differences between the Junior 60 and the Super Sixty. Also the Big Four is about Frog Jackdaw, Mercury Galahad, Veron Viscount which might interest those who have replied to this thread. The book is 1960's so much of the radio stuff is out of date but the plane design comments are interesting and relevant now.
I don't want to confuse the situation here but its worth considering whether the Super Sixty would be a more suitable model than the Junior 60. It's horses for courses - the Junior is more a plane for vintage flying pleasure while the Super is a plane to learn to fly with 3 or 4 function RC. Not much in it for construction ease or flying pleasure, but the Super is just that bit more modern. Each plane has it's enthusiasts.
|Thread: Motor suggestions|
There was an article In RCME October 2018 about the Coyote. David Ashby built it as a glider but the text mentions the motor that could be used was a 2822 1100kv with a 30 amp ESC and 3s 1300 Lipo with 8 x 6 folding prop. The 4Max site gives their own motor etc here - 5 th item down.
|Thread: Junior 60 Kitset|
The plan for the newer Junior60 is here on Outerzone for free download with an article on electric version. The older version is also on Outerzone. Or you could buy just the plan from Ben Buckle. Buying the balsa from SLEC or Balsa Cabin etc would be much cheaper than buying the kit
Edited By kc on 07/07/2020 08:52:21
|Thread: Miss Sizzle|
The latest Lipo packs do seem to be a lot thinner than the ones of a year or two ago. It's the same with 4S - they seem to be about 6mm thinner. My older packs are still going strong.at the moment.
This design is high on my build list as it has construction methods that suit me and it's a handy size..
Looking at the plan I noticed that the battery platform only allows 25mm height for the Lipo. That's enought for the specified 4Max Lipo but I measured my 3S2200 and found that many of them measure 30mm or 35mm in height after some use. Consequently I will lower the battery platform a bit but that will involve cutting F2 out a bit more. So I mention this in case anybody else needs to do so too. It's so much easier to do this at an early stage rather than on a completed fuselage! Of course the hatch could be hollowed out a bit at H2 to provide clearance too but i want lots of room for the plugs to go where ever they need to.
The pull out plan is in the printed version of RCME July 2020 and is plan No RC2221.
It's now called Miss Sizzles and searching the forum for that doesn't find this thread! Perhaps the Mods can adjust that?
Welcome to the forum Pete.
If you intend to test the motor then the model must be securely restrained, but if the test is not the motor then make sure you remove the prop first.
For just testing the controls not the motor it is practical to unplug the ESC and plug a 4.8 volt nicad as used in glow models, gliders etc into the Rx instead. Safer as the motor cannot start unexpectedly.
Edited By kc on 04/07/2020 13:30:25
Chris , no replies to your questions so far - so I suggest starting a new thread with Horizon mentioned in the title which will bring it to the attention of those who know about it.
|Thread: Battery Hatch Query|
I agree with John - the firewall is usually better moved forward so the Lipo can go where it needs to balance and also give access to connect up. A top hatch for access whilst connecting/ disconnecting safely out on the field seems very desirable. If the hatch comes near the canopy then you might consider making the canopy part of the hatch.
Edited By kc on 03/07/2020 19:59:44
|Thread: What glues do you use?|
Bob said " The Superphatic that I've got dries very rubbery, it is a FiveStar branded one "
The glue I used is marked Super'Phatic! and is the stuff made by Deluxe Materials and is probably a trademark so whatever Bob used is not the same stuff. Of course it could be very similar or it might not. Five Star has something called Hingeite which I thought would be similar, but I couldn't get on with it - perhaps I didn't use it correctly or perhaps it went off in storage.
So if anyone who uses Super'Phatic can advise us how they get on with it and whether it stores well for a year or more then I would be pleased to hear. I am reluctant to use the Hingeite on hinges either until I know it works well.
|Thread: Lightwight foam cowl, Tissue with EZE Dope or thinned PVA?|
Chris Gold's method seems different ( he does NOT soak IN the pva) he used 70 percent PVA and 30 percent water, pasted both the brown paper and the foam surface( using brush I suppose) then applied quickly BEFORE the pva soaked to the outer surface of the brown paper. Cuts were made in the brown paper to allow it to fit curves. Thats what i did too.
Easy enough to experiment with either way on a test piece although Martin won't have the time to test first due to his time schedule.
One of my clubmates showed me his models covered in coloured parcel tape - looked a good idea if there are only curves in one plane.
Chris Golds wrote an article years ago describing using foam covered in brown paper and dilute PVA. He used thin brown paper which is slightly shiny one side. This worked well when I tried it on some components such as cockpit headrest. Came out hard and like it was carved in balsa but lighter. Suggest you use brown paper.
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