Here is a list of all the postings kc has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Looking for fine control snakes|
A closed loop system could be used even with a linear servo by using a short pushrod to a pivoted arm ( servo arm ) which has the wires attached.
You could consider using closed loop system which would save a lot of weight especially at the tail end.
You can find closed loop wire and fittings at SLEC who also do fine 'snakes' etc etc.
Edited By kc on 16/05/2020 16:13:42
|Thread: Coffin dodger needs help.|
One tip on a similar subject is that servos etc normally come with a Futaba style plug but they come in two types
one is the proper Futaba plug which has a ridge down the side to ensure it goes into the socket the correct way. Sometimes the Rx or extension won't accept theis ridge so the solution is to slice off the ridge with a scalpel.
the other does not have the ridge. This can go into the Rx etc either way but only works one way. Solution is to turn it around - it does not do any harm servos if the wrong way but just doesn't work.
|Thread: I think ive boobed...|
Tx & Rx that were sold before the cutoff date can still be used. And modern Rx (specified to be DSM2 & DSMX ) can work with any Spektrum TX. Newest Tx cannot be used with old DSM2 only Rx but those old DSM2 Rx can still be used if you have a Tx with DSM2.
Having said all that most people reckon DSMX is better than DSM2.
What was the fix?
Perhaps you have the later DX6i which is DSMX only. Or you might have the earliest one which was DSM2 only. There was one which came between that was DSM2 and DSMX but that could not be imported after a certain date due to EU regs.
For about 15 pounds you can buy a tiny spektrum compatible Rx which will work on any of those Tx. Would that help?
Edited By kc on 15/05/2020 15:18:37
|Thread: Has anyone heard from Jeff2Wings ?|
In the current crisis it's possible the person lacks internet access ( that they had at work) or is just too busy to post on the forum.
Bob said " I've noticed a lot of 'former member' posts of late " and he is right. It's such a shame to delete all previous posts that were acceptable and it's sometimes destroyed a very informative thread with great info just because someone has left. Why is that done? We never know what has happened to the person.
|Thread: Henley Solon|
Two things about old soldering irons
1 they don't work well with leadfree solder - although leaded is still available.
2 Wonder whether they use asbestos or anything now considered nasty in the iron?
My Henly Solon 25 watt bought about 1960 still works OK after 60 years of occasional use.
|Thread: Bike Maintenance Stand to Model Stand?|
You could splash out and buy the proper thing from SLEC. Also there is a design for a similar thing available online -somewhere.
They have been sold by SLEC for about 30 years but most peoples experience is they don't hold the wheels on well enough, unless you file a groove in the wire. Then you cannot get them off at all!.
|Thread: For Better or for worse|
The best bit about having a reversing camera on your car is that you can take a last look at your precious plane as you reverse over it!
Seriously Chris should be grateful that it didn't hit anyone & nobody tried to sue the car's owner for 'injury' in todays litigous times. Just a bit of mess on the wing is getting away lightly ...and hopefully by being a gentleman about it he still gets hot meals.
|Thread: Advice on using my old Futaba gear|
If you should decide to use 35MHZ then you need to worry about other pilots not using frequency control - they think they are the only ones on 35 now!
One of the possible but unseen problems is black wire corrosion on old eqipment. Especially on switch harness which should be discarded. Actually I found black wire corrosion on the red wire too on a switch harness. So put the old Tx on the antique shelf and buy a 2.4 ghz set which will likely have expo and lots of other handy settings. Most people won't be happy with less than 6 model memories.
Old servos might be OK if used just on non critical items - maybe throttle & rudder, but servos are cheap now. Test them and also new servos with a servo tester for half an hour or more. Just a couple of pounds for a servo tester from Banggood etc.
Buy a set of Eneloop (Panasonic) rechargeable but low self discharge batteries for a 2.4 ghz Tx. Note that if using electric power most people won't use a Rx nicad or switch but rely on the BEC from the ESC.
Check the price and availability of spare Rx before you decide on a brand of TX. Nowadays people have a Rx in each of their many models so price mounts up. Some are expensive , some have reliable, cheaper substitute Rx avail and some obscure systems become unobtainable quickly.
Edited By kc on 14/05/2020 10:58:29
Edited By kc on 14/05/2020 11:25:49
|Thread: RCM&E Plans Available?|
well I am not sure Sarik do all the latest plans as Moondancer 2 and Miss Deeds ( for example) don't appear in the lists. But Ohmen is there which was fairly recent.
Sarik should have all RCME,Radio Modeller, Scale Aircraft Quarterly, old Aeromodeller, RC ModelWorld etc plans.
If you want a plan from a recent RCME pull out ('free' plan then it's better ( much cheaper!) to try to get a back number of RCME. Hwever I see that the latest plans such as Moon Dancer 2 don't seem to be listed by Sarik yet.
|Thread: Woodn't you like to know|
A Miles Magister as a first build? I think most people would advise against such a model. That's not to say it's impossible, just it would be easier to get a few simple models built first and gain experience. Much better to put aside and build something simpler first that could be built in much less time. Scale models have so many fiddly bits that need to be correct. Sports models don't need to have the fancy parts - they just need to fly well so construction is quicker and easier.
Edited By kc on 13/05/2020 13:56:25
|Thread: For Better or for worse|
That's an amazing yarn!
The solution is to accept that it was YOUR fault and get your dinners cooked etc rather than say that the driver should check the vehicle before driving!
|Thread: Woodn't you like to know|
Neil, if you specify which model you are building and the plan or kit then probably you will get more advice and hints.
Nobody has answered the question on spars, braces and engine bearers.
For spars I prefer to use spruce rather than hard balsa - it must be really hard balsa to be any use for spars on most RC models so spruce is the substitute I use. Also possible to use softwood like pine as sold by B&Q etc in 6mm sq section etc in about 8ft lengths but watch out for the 'finger joints' which are used in this timber and dont use that section near the root only at the tip. ( finger joiniing is almost invisible in the wood until you look closely and you will see it) Make sure the length is straight. Spruce from SLEC or Balsa Cabin is available in 48 inch lengths as well as 36 which is handy for some designs.
Wing braces should be a good type of ply such as birch ply not the cheap DIY ply which is weaker due to thicker centre section of poor timber between nice looking outer layers. Lite ply ( from SLEC or Balsa cabin etc ) is probably not suitable unless actually specified by the designer.
Engine bearers are normally beech. Could be any good hardwood like mahogany if that is all that is available. Beech is easily obtainable in engine bearer sizes from balsa suppliers, but a good source of free beech is scrapped chair or table legs if you care to saw it down yourself - just utilise the flat surfaces and saw away the usually tapered bit. A bit of effort but free and the best seasoned timber you can find after it's been indoors in a centrally heated house for decades. Depends on the design but most people now use plastic or alloy engine mounts for glow. But a beech engine bearer might be part of the fundamental design on older designs.
It's a mystery why such basic things as the Woodnt you article is available to subscribers only long after it was published. Should be availble free to help newcomers etc.
|Thread: Toying with selling up|
Peter it would probably be helpful if you explained a bit more about your Aixam which is a very rare car -what licence group do they come under? - do new motorcycle licences cover this type of 4 wheel car? Do you pay road tax like most cars? Are they RHD?
Aside from the Aixam iwas going to suggest buying a classic car- something just old enough to rate as a tax free, and allegedly low insurance cost car. I would suggest looking for a 25 year old Toyota or Mazda as very reliable possibly underrated classic. Keep for years and only go up in value surely?
If you are young then a car licence is a necessary item for many jobs and useful anyway. So it's more cost effective in the long run. However if a motorbike is the only thing then consider asking a clubmate or instructor to keep your plane and just take the Tx and supply of batteries or fuel on the bike.
It's a bad time to sell any s/h gear - lots of people with little income and poor job prospects, while it's very likely there will be a price increase in everything imported and the near certainty of steep VAT increases to pay for Lockdown. Therefore replacement would not be cheap in a year or so.
Edited By kc on 12/05/2020 16:17:09
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