Here is a list of all the postings kc has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Ultra Stick fuselage build.|
What size is the wing?
Depending on wingspan you could download an Ugly Stik or Ultra Stik 54 plan from Outerzone and use that to make a fuselage. Note that the wingseat may need to be modified to suit the wing as the airfoil shape seems to have been modified in some variations of the basic Ugly Stik.
Much easier to save all the old crashed parts and use as pattern to make new. Easier still if you draw around every component before starting a kit or ARTF to ensure you have patterns available just in case.
Edited By kc on 12/05/2020 16:04:02
|Thread: Plans for Bowman 110 ins Sailman|
I have a system for finding lost things-
1 it's most likely to be where I last used it.
2. If I cannot remember where I last used it or saw it then what is the most logical place I would have last used it.
3. If it's not in 1 or 2 then where would my wife have put it whilst "tidying up" ? ( Unknown unknown or known unknown? )
4. If it's not in those places it's either been thrown away or hiding in plain sight - that is amongst other similar items and not recognised. That is to say a plan might be hiding amongst other plans or be rolled up with another plan ( most likely??) or put into the wrong magazine or kit box.
5. if it does not turn up quickly then buy another one and sure as anything the original will turn up.
In respect of your lost plan then unless someone offers you a plan then perhaps consider buying the same item on e bay if possible and copying the plan then sell the item on afterwards to recoup the cost.
If you cannot find one to buy on E-bay then it's a rare kit which should fetch a good price so sell your kit on E-bay stating plan is missing and let it be someone else's problem!
Edited By kc on 12/05/2020 10:10:46
|Thread: Gary's Ballerina Build|
That's a problem then! More reason to build to the plan size. One of the joys of building from a plan is that the designer has done all the hard work -thinking- for you and you just do the enjoyable buiding bit.
You don't need to chop the ends off a junior hacksaw blade - the pins just press out. Using the blade as a pullsaw makes it so much easier for many jobs as the thin blade does not buckle while pulling.
For really tricky sawing work one of those oscillating ( vibrating) multi tool saws can do the near impossible. Too expensive just for models so find a household use to justify the purchase!
|Thread: Gary's Ballerina Build|
All you need for scaling up is just the outline - there is no need for detail. Rather than use proportional dividers if you use a calculator and put the conversion factor in as a constant ( press XX twice?) then all you have to do is to measure with a rule put into calc and then press = you get the new measurement. No need to put the conversion in again until you turn it off. Measuring in mm seems easiest.
You could scan all the formers, ribs and shaped parts onto an A4 scanner by rolling the plan ( like an ancient scroll in 2 rolls) , selecting the formers etc and scan. Then print in Acrobat to the actual new scale you want- either 100 percent or 125 percent etc. You might only need the wing seat area of the fuselage as the rest may be just straight lines.
The tricky part is deciding what material sizes to use as straight forward scaling up is not applicable for most parts.
|Thread: Balsacraft Limbo Dancer IC|
No there is no wing joiner tube it's a one piece wing. Just two paper tubes to take aileron servo wires.
Edited By kc on 10/05/2020 19:31:26
Edited By kc on 10/05/2020 19:33:20
SLEC is the current name for Balsacraft. Website is here.
For anyone on a strict budget ( that's most of us now) there is a free plan for a fairly similar model called Joey or Kanga in this thread by Martyn K. Three years ago Martyn offered a pdf of this or his own version, maybe he still would if asked.
Edited By kc on 10/05/2020 19:24:51
Edited By kc on 10/05/2020 19:41:09
I reckon that it might be better to consider sawing it out - sawing out the box in the fuselage perhaps and eventually retaining the ply tongue hopefully intact. Maybe just sawing one side of the joiner box might work. Use a japanese type pull saw with no 'back' to get in the way and very fine teeth.
Sometimes drastic surgery is the easiest and most satisfactory way.
|Thread: Can you help me with balsa thickness and type for plan build glider ?I|
It is amazing how much balsa and especially ply cost now. Add in the cost of the snakes, horns, bands, dowel etc I would be surprised if the bill came to less than the cost of the Coyote kit! SLEC use good parts ( their own mostly ) in their kits so they are good value.
Didn't David Ashby do a review of the Coyote in a recent RCME or is my memory failing?
Before you finalise your order for balsa check out the SLEC Coyote kit which is very similar and at 49 pounds is pretty cheap and probably not much more than you might spend on balsa and all the linkage parts if you start from scratch. Building from the kit might provide an insight into plan building in future if you note the way they use the thickness and grain.
Studying the plan I notice there are 2 dihedral braces which look like 1/8 thick but whether they would be balsa or ply I cannot say. Obviously the grain must be spanwise but the component is the only part not illustrated. Also note that there is 1/16 shear web on the spars out to a certain point on each wing.
All the parts shown together as one sheet would clearly be the same thickness. It seems the formers may be 1/8 and perhaps they are lite ply as the sheet seems too wide for balsa. SLEC sell Lite ply and it cuts easily with a Stanley knife with repeated passes of a new sharp blade.
Top tip -- next time you buy a kit draw around all the shaped components onto lining paper etc and mark material, thickness and grain direction. The you can replace any component or even make a new model from the data.
Nobody has answered yet and I have not built the model but maybe somebody who has built it will answer soon.
My opinion is the sides would be 3/32 but it always depends on the density of balsa - very light 1/8 would weigh much the same as medium 3/32 and perhaps do the same job. 1/16 would seem to thin unless very hard balsa. Note grain direction - top is crossgrain 1/16 while fuselage sides would be grain lengthwise.
Hardwood spars are usually spruce. Dowel is birch dowel ( never balsa for wing dowels ) or simila. Model usues rubber bands to hold wings, so buy some wing bands from SLEC- must be tight and needs about 6 for safety. The fuselage side that takes the dowels seems to have some ply in that area - could be 1/32 birch ply the parts are on the plan nearest the tailplane. Very important to reinforce around dowels..
You can buy threaded rods from SLEC or Balsa Cabin etc. and matching clevis. Making a Z bend in soft rod is easy or buy special Z bend pliers if you use piano wire. Must be Z bend not simple 90 degree bends unless using SLEC swing in keepers etc. Otherwise the 90 degrees pulls out in flight!. If you should need a rod threaded at both ends don't bother with a die the rod probably has a rolled thread which means that increases diameter and it wil be undersize for a die. You could buy a solder on threaded part from SLEC but a z bend will be fine for this type of model. So use a threaded rod and z bend the other end ( or simple 90 degree plus swing in keeper.)
First of all have you read all the supplementary sections ( instructions& reviews) on the Outerzone section for this model? Maybe they will help. Ask further questions here as needed - someone will help.
Edited By kc on 06/05/2020 16:29:29
Edited By kc on 06/05/2020 16:39:05
Edited By kc on 06/05/2020 16:44:15
Edited By kc on 06/05/2020 16:49:41
Edited By kc on 06/05/2020 16:57:12
|Thread: Ballerina Bi-plane|
Perhaps it's too late but worth mentioning here that Vortex Vacform do moulded dummy radial engines in various sizes. Also a couple of flat 4 engines for Cubs etc. And they also have their range of canopies and cowls. Plus they do spats and pilot figures in various sizes.
Edited By kc on 06/05/2020 11:28:20
|Thread: New boiler installation|
You should check the details of the boilers guarantee which may state what should be done. Make certain it is done as the guaranttee lasts many years but requires annual service ( cleaning magnetic filter etc) Details were on the boiler makers website when I checked the various makes before choosing.
My recent experience of having the boiler replaced was that the heating engineer flushed the system with some special stuff and used a magnetic filter in addition to the magnetic filter he fitted. He showed me the huge amount of gunge his filter removed. However the flushing took only an hour two. Then refilled with Fermox or something.
|Thread: Are our wings over-engineered?|
PatMc. Plummet was right it was the Fokker actually D8. See Structures pages 261 to 268. Actually this book goes against others ( probably what PatMac read) in the Fokker explanation, ( Urban Myth?) I would trust Prof Gordon on this as he seems to have been very much involved in such design problems in WW2. Read his books and be convinced he knows what he writes about.
Edited By kc on 04/05/2020 16:15:24
|Thread: Contagion, a film to watch|
Back in the 1950's there was a film called Panic in the Year Zero starring Ray Milland. It was about what happened when an atomic bomb was about to explode and the population took to the hills, civilisation broke down and people panicked to get supplies. Never seen on TV or cinema since the 1950's as far as I can tell. But so relevant to todays situation. ( actually I hope not but fear that lack of food and supllies will cause a similar reaction later this year)
|Thread: Are our wings over-engineered?|
Actually Plummet the same author JE Gordon wrote 2 excellent books -The New Science of Strong Material or why you dont fall through the floor and also Structures or Why things dont fall down. Both very readable and worthwhile. Penguin Science paperback. Should be in any library.
I suppose the comments about Lotus - Lots Of Trouble Until Sold- are relevent, only make it just strong enough to work perfectly. I remember seeing a Lotus Elan crash on the main straight at Brands Hatch, it hit the concrete marshalls post at the top of Paddock Hill and seemed to disintegrate. The largest piece left was about 18 inches BUT the driver just walked away! Much the same with modern ARTF planes - they fly well but when they crash or even have a hard landing they disintegrate and only tiny pieces of perforated ply remain.
We might try the Elan central backbone type construction in planes. Maybe a fretted out backbone of ply or even carbon fibre holding all the main parts and the shape formed from foam sanded to shape. Perhaps it's easier to just buy a foam Wot4 though!
|Thread: Das Liddle Stik|
Geoff, how did you actually use Blenderm tape? Does it work just sticking it on in the obvious way?
Elsewhere you mentioned building a bipe version. Check out the 4-40 Bipe for a similar wing construction - mostly no LE sheeting - but the section is different, probably too much drag with 2 very thick airfoils. Frankly the best flying small bipe is the Acrobits, I flew my Renegade bipe ( R Clarke design ) and then tried a friends Acrobits. Acrobits was better than the very good Renegade. People in my club reckon the Pasadena Special is the best small bipe. Very simple build.
Edited By kc on 03/05/2020 17:09:28
Edited By kc on 03/05/2020 17:20:01
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