Here is a list of all the postings kc has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Battery Hatch Query|
I agree with John - the firewall is usually better moved forward so the Lipo can go where it needs to balance and also give access to connect up. A top hatch for access whilst connecting/ disconnecting safely out on the field seems very desirable. If the hatch comes near the canopy then you might consider making the canopy part of the hatch.
Edited By kc on 03/07/2020 19:59:44
|Thread: What glues do you use?|
Bob said " The Superphatic that I've got dries very rubbery, it is a FiveStar branded one "
The glue I used is marked Super'Phatic! and is the stuff made by Deluxe Materials and is probably a trademark so whatever Bob used is not the same stuff. Of course it could be very similar or it might not. Five Star has something called Hingeite which I thought would be similar, but I couldn't get on with it - perhaps I didn't use it correctly or perhaps it went off in storage.
So if anyone who uses Super'Phatic can advise us how they get on with it and whether it stores well for a year or more then I would be pleased to hear. I am reluctant to use the Hingeite on hinges either until I know it works well.
|Thread: Lightwight foam cowl, Tissue with EZE Dope or thinned PVA?|
Chris Gold's method seems different ( he does NOT soak IN the pva) he used 70 percent PVA and 30 percent water, pasted both the brown paper and the foam surface( using brush I suppose) then applied quickly BEFORE the pva soaked to the outer surface of the brown paper. Cuts were made in the brown paper to allow it to fit curves. Thats what i did too.
Easy enough to experiment with either way on a test piece although Martin won't have the time to test first due to his time schedule.
One of my clubmates showed me his models covered in coloured parcel tape - looked a good idea if there are only curves in one plane.
Chris Golds wrote an article years ago describing using foam covered in brown paper and dilute PVA. He used thin brown paper which is slightly shiny one side. This worked well when I tried it on some components such as cockpit headrest. Came out hard and like it was carved in balsa but lighter. Suggest you use brown paper.
|Thread: Easy Jet redundancies|
Be better news if they had not made 319 pilots redundant
|Thread: VOLANTEX asw 28|
On a quick read thro this thread I couldn't see if anybody mentioned binding the Rx to Tx.
Andrea you need to advise us if you have carried out the Binding procedure shown on page 11 of the online manual Section 4. You will see it also says if it doesnt work as expected then do it again.
Edited By kc on 02/07/2020 13:24:27
|Thread: What glues do you use?|
Nigel i was talking about SuperPhatic which is thin like water.
I did further tests on balsa instead of hardwood ( OK balsa is technically a hardwood! )
Resin W the balsa gave way before the glue just as expected. = just the right glue to use for balsa if you can leave it to dry for 24 hours without moving.
SuperPhatic. 2 bits of balsa were overlapped 15mm sq and clamped together and the very thin glue was 'wicked in' like we do with cyano. = the glue hardly penetrated and there was little strength in the joint which easily failed. = not satisfactory way to use this. If anybody has used it then please tell me the correct technique! Or has my Superphatic gone off in a year?
Edited By kc on 02/07/2020 11:49:43
The results of my own tests in the challenge. Each glue was used on an identical piece of hardwood and glued to another different piece of good hardwood. Overlap glued was about 40mm sq and clamped for 40 hours. ( longer than 24 to give the cheaper glues a fair chance ) Each piece was given an identical hammer blow which separated the parts.
Evostik Wood Glue ResinW ( an old bottle at least 3 or more years old ) = wood fibres parted about instead of glue line. No sign of glue parting so glue stronger than a good piece of hardwood = very satisfactory.
151 glue = a few traces of the wood fibres parting and some of the glueline parted = a better result than when I tried it before possibly because I left it for 40 hours instead of 24. = not good enough for me to use on planes, but could be OK for DIY use on large areas.
Humbrol Extrarez ( old bottle 3 years old) = wood fibres parted and partial glueline parting = OK for planes where quick drying is needed but not as good as ResinW
Everstone = some fibres parted but mostly the glueline parted= I wouldn't use on planes but only on DIY jobs with large surfaces to be glued.
Westbury Express PVA this glue seemed funny immediately I bought it at a show - may have been frost which separated it a bit so I shook the bottle and it seemed to recover. So as it was 'damaged' I didnt expect good results and used different wood and glued to ply. = the ply veneer parted not the glue line! So OK especially if I need to sand the wood afterwards.
So Resin W gave the best results for me. The Wilko interior glue that Ken used seems as good and it's available in smaller size with long spout so would be an alternative when I run out. Not worth bothering with cheap PVA glues for planes in my view. We use so little and consider the work thats wasted if the fundamental items give way!
Just realised it was in your photo and amended my comments.
Thats very good Ken - just as good as Evostik Resin W - in fact it might be the same who knows? Looks like this one at 3 pounds for 125ml. Not as cheap as Evostik Resin W bought in bigger sizes but a handy size with long spout so a good buy. However all the Wilko brand PVA seems dearer than Evostik Resin W bought at Toolstation except for the 1 litre size which is cheaper. So not much in it for price and just as good it seems.
I am giving my test pieces a little more time to get the full 24 hours before testing.
Edited By kc on 01/07/2020 16:47:35
|Thread: Will we continue to get the magazine (RCM&E)?|
You would think that paying a subscription would be regarded as a contract - you pay the sub and they have to supply or be in breach of that contract? Maybe there is something in the small print that allows one side to renage on the contract in some circumstances.
However for Joost and others there might be a solution. Many RCME readers read the magazine and then put it to one side and throw them away after few months or give them to friends. Maybe an advert or posting offering to swap your local RC magazine for the RCME you want would produce a reply that suits both with delivery when the situation allows. I suggest 2 of yours for one of theirs is the sort of thing to tempt as not many Englishmen speak or read foreign languages so they would be getting less of interest.
|Thread: What glues do you use?|
Nigel & Ken A Challenge. would you be willing to test your cheap PVA in a destruction test? A test piece of hardwood or softwood glued,clamped left for 24 hours and then forced apart to see if the wood fibres give way before the glue? Be interesting I think.
I will glue a few softwood testpieces with ResinW, a cheap pva marked 151, another marked Everstone, Westbury Express PVA and Humbrol Extrarez. All same wood, well clamped and left 24 hours. Then I will twist them apart.
Edited By kc on 30/06/2020 16:11:12
I don't think Evostik ResinW comes with " the long thin applicator nozzle which lets you get the glue in exactly the right place." nowadays. Worth keeping any long nozzles and reusing them.
Interesting to note the prices vary so much Robert Dyas want 6.49 for 250ml ResinW while Toolstation will sell twice as much for a pound less! 500ml for 5.49. It is worth decanting a bit from the large bottles into a smaller long spouted squeezy bottle ( obviously I am talking about PVA not cyano )
I will do a test of Resin W and also Superphatic and test them to destruction. Same material same clamping etc, both balsa and ply.
A joint made with good quality PVA ( such as Evostik Wood Glue /ResinW ) is stronger than the wood itself - even hardwood like beech. Try a test on a scrap bit of wood and try to pull apart after 24 hours. Also check on a cheap brand which looks the same. I found a cheap supermarket glue in green bottle that looked like other PVA but the sample test proved the glue failed - nowhere near as strong. On the other hand joints made with Resin W when it first came out - 1960's - are still in use on furniture and have never failed. ( furniture has a larger surface are for the glue and not the same strains as aircraft but it proves it doesn't age. Assuming they have not changed the formulae for Resin W over the years)
|Thread: In search of a LARGE canopy|
There used to be 2 suppliers of canopies for RCME etc designs - 1 was Vortex and the other was Sarik which was a small firm that sold out to Traplet and eventually that name was used for the remains of the Traplet company. So those are the 2 likely sources of a custom made canopy from your own plug. It is also possible that the man who ran the original Sarik still does vac forming.
You could try moulding one yourself but in that size it might take many trys to get a perfect one and waste so much material it would be better to get a specialist to do it. If I was asking for a quote for this type of work I would also ask what the price was for 2 or 3 - might not be lot more and worth having a spare or 1 to sell on......... Selling the plan on with a canopy might prove worthwhile, you never know.
OK it's not the Tapsfield plan!
Just a couple of crazy ideas to help you -
1 people are busy making visors for hairdressers etc, maybe could be adopted or they might mould something for you. perhaps everyones too busy at the moment though!
2 Wheeler Dealers on TV showed how a bubble canopy for a bubble car was made - blown into a mould I think & cost a fortune. Somewhere in UK though.
3 Sarik still offer the Optica canopy - maybe could be utilised? Last time I heard of someone buying this it came direct from the sub contractor - might have been Vortex.
In the pre-amble to Denis Tapsfields RCM plan on Outerzone it says " The last remaining thing was that the canopy that Howard Blackwell makes for his Robin adapted almost perfectly, so I was all set. " If that is any help.
I am not sure if the RCM plan is the same as the Radio Modeller July 82 plan but it looks the same size and same designer - not quite a third scale at 3.5 inches to foot. Is that your design?
Sarik offer several Bede canopies is it this one ?
In the past people had trouble contacting Vortex but found they eventually answered and were able to supply items. So don't give up if they don't answer immediately ( think they may be part time or something ) - they are a good supplier by all accounts. It looks as though they offer a service to make from your pattern.
Want the latest issue of RCM&E? Use our magazine locator link to find your nearest stockist!