Here is a list of all the postings kc has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Scroll Saw Recommendations|
I agree with Peter Miller that a scroll saw is more use for models than a bandsaw. I use an Axminster scroll saw which is 15 years old and cost about £95 then but seems much the same as the AWFS16 they sell now for £54. They are a bargain now!
The big difference between the various similar looking saws is the table, some are cast iron, some pressed steel and some cast aluminium. I reckon the cast iron is best but if you leave it in a shed then the ali one will resist rusting. You might coat the cast iron with silicone polish to resist rust . If you need to carry it around then the lower weight might also be significant, otherwise the heavy cast iron is best. ( the specified weight from the specification will tell you which has the cast iron table )
The pin ended blades are easier to use for inside cuts.
|Thread: Find The Model|
Well, if there is a problem with being shot down on 2.4 Ghz then everyone will want to know.
Good luck with finding the model and don't forget to set your alarm clock on the day of cutting. And of course the weather might cause a change in plans and so bring it forward ( alternatively make it known that a reward for the model intact is avail to the driver who finds it. Then have a lie in and wait for the phone call ! Money is a great motivator. )
Edited By kc on 09/07/2009 14:10:18
I re-read all the messages, it doesn't actually say whether you are on 2. 4Ghz or 35 mhz.
Perhaps your description of the problem suggests it just went out of range. With 35mhz all sorts of things cause loss of range, low battery, aerial too near servo motor, dirty trans aerial etc Also metal to metal is a problem Did you carry out a range check first as described in the BMFA handbook?
Did you hold the transmitter aerial up high when it first seemed out of control?
With 2.4 ghz of course some sets are made with less range and not suitable for outdoor use.
|It used to be common to have wings fixed on with rubber bands. Frequently insufficient bands were used and the wing lifted causing the plane to perform weird maneuvers and then right itself. Then it happened again etc. Does this seem possible? |
We reckoned 6 rubber bands diagonal were necessary for most planes.
Servos not fixed securely also produced similar effects on another new plane I recall. One plane even had no screws in the aileron servo!
Did the instructor inspect the plane thoroughly? Did he test fly it before handing over to you or are you experienced enough to test fly your own models?
Last week at my club a newcomer came and claimed his battery was fully charged. Someone asked " how long?" answer "4 hours ". Result all the experienced people said " 12 to 16 hours is necessary for the first charge"! Also of course batteries lose charge in a week, especially Ni MH. So was it freshly charged?
Edited By kc on 08/07/2009 18:35:40
Of course i took it as a jest, that's why i replied in a similar way with the opposite spelling error ( to be P.C too ) !!!!
On the serious side I am still trying to help with the lost models.
It might help to go out in the field when someone else is flying a similar model to see just how far out the models go. You may be surprised, it may be nearer or further than you thought.
Finding the cause of the crashes is really more important than the model, because you need to avoid it happening again.
Tell us the full circumstances and someone might be able to help. How long had those models flown since re-charging? How long was it charged? Could someone have switched off the power during charging without realising? Charge another battery and put a digital multimeter on it and test the volts.
What radio was used? What was the history- new or crashed before? Has anyone else had mysterious crashes there on 2.4Ghz?
Were the models new? Is there any possibility that the elevator linkage failed- have you used same linkage before without problems?
There are a number of reports on forums of people using 2.4Ghz and having digital servos take a lot out of the nicads and cause problems and crashes. Do you think something like that happened? Its really the only known problem with 2.4 apart from someone reporting a faulty switch.
Edited By kc on 08/07/2009 17:35:30
Some of the sites are full of the most appalling spelling mistakes........I make 1 error and the moderator comments!!!!!
However, come to think of it one of the clubs I belong to does have an instructor who thinks he is Good!
I wil make 2 more comments about finding the model.
1 Depth perception is funny, you might be looking too far back ( or forwards.)
2 A financial reward to the actual man harvesting the crop might be cheaper than wrecking the model.
Edited By kc on 07/07/2009 11:26:07
|Once you have found the model it would be essential to find the cause of the crashes. If the only common thing of the 2 models is the transmitter then it suggests that is the fault. Interference seems unlikely with 2.4 Ghz. However it might be an installation problem, a battery problem or even pilot fatigue. You decide! i have seen many people fly OK for about 6,7 or 8 minutes and then lose concentration at around 9 or 10 minutes. Luckily they had a god instructor to grab the transmitter.|
Re-reading your early messages, it occurs to me you could do the reverse. By that I mean put 2 sticks or balloons on your flightline in line with the known position and then line them up from the other side ( something like they start sailing races & finishes ) so you know you are searching along the right line.
Failing that get a sniffer dog and start training him to locate glow fuel or burnt out ESC smell !
Seriously how come you lost 2 models so quickly?
Edited By kc on 05/07/2009 19:17:43
I would suggest providing the microlight with a marker to drop by the model. Maybe a childs helium balloon on a string with a weight so it stands up well above the crop. Aim it at the model and its sure to miss unless the pilot is exRAF.
The photo idea used a model to carry the camera as a microlight was not available quickly. He strapped a 35mm camera under a model glider . You could use a cheap disposable film camera. A digital camera would be easier because no problems with winding film on. That is you are able to take many photos per flight using just 1 servo to fire the shutter.
The main thing is to have markers that are visible, in the photo and in a fixed position. Maybe if it works it's time RCME published another article on the subject......
Edited By kc on 04/07/2009 11:22:34
|Thread: Wot 4 Engine Choice and Acro Wot C of G|
|I think there something in the instructions about strengthening the tail plane and fin if you fit oversize engines.|
|Thread: Find The Model|
|Years ago there was a method of locating models lost in crops by aerial photo with a simple camera -published in RCME Jan 1985. It involved markers placed so they showed in the photo. Triangulation from 2 different markers showed the models position, I recall.
Edited By kc on 03/07/2009 17:50:23
Edited By kc on 03/07/2009 18:02:05
|Thread: Recommendation for building path|
Build from a kit first to get some idea of the density of balsa needed for each part. Then build from plans.
A few days ago I put a lot of info about building from scratch at www.modelflying.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=29060
this was first an answer about wing jigs but became an item on building from scratch on the second page. Several people found it useful I think.
|Thread: President Funfly rebuild|
The humour is fine and a good thing.
As long as you realised the dowel holes alter the incidence BEFORE you glued! Dont ask me how I know...........
My comments were meant to be taken seriously !
Position of theses holes affects wing incidence.
A little earlier people were talking about fretsaws and coping saws.
Coping saws are best used as a pullsaw so the blade is in tension on the cutting stroke. Cuts much straighter like this and the coping saw is easier to use than a hand fretsaw.
However power fretsaws are still fairly cheap at about 50 pounds from Screwfix or Axminster.
Regarding the dowel hole part. Best to glue this in after fitting wing on to ascertain where the holes need to be. Remember you probably drilled the holes thro the former into the wing. Now you have got the dowels fixed in the wing. So you need to move the holes to fit round the dowels! ( or is this what the jokers were implying?)
Edited By kc on 26/06/2009 17:49:50
|Thread: Wing jig|
Having done a rough costing based on the materials list (which is very vague on size ) I reckon the materials and main hardware would cost about 76 pounds plus carriage from Balsa cabin or similar. More from your local shop probably but no carriage.
As many of the balsa sizes are unobtainable ready cut it seems worth buying a kit at 103 pounds which includes all the odd fitting, nut bolts etc. And the balsa selection is done for you.
I am a great advocate of plan building but for your first one I reckon you will do better to buy the kit.
I cannot really help much without seeing the plan, but there are some odd sizes on this model. I suppose as a balsa sawmill Sig can use the sizes that are most economical for them. Clearly it is easier to build from a plan that was designed to be made from standard English balsa! ( even Scottish balsa )
Lots of the parts can be cut from sheet. The chunky but short balsa blocks could be built up from 1/4 sheet layers for 1/2 and with an 1/8 as well for 5/8. Use cyano or aliphatic but not ordinary PVA to glue. Ordinary PVA is rubbery and 'pulls out' when you sand it.
The worst item is the 3/16 by 5/16 strips for stab ribs. This needs to be cut accurately to make a flat stabiliser which is quite difficult.
Decide before you order anything whether it might be better to buy a kit, you will get all the hardware and all the tricky bits shaped. If the price of the main bits approaches the kit price buy a kit this time and observe the grades of balsa they use for your next scratch built model.
Check out the Balsa Cabin www.zyworld.com/balsacabin/page1.htm or Inwood or balsamart.co.uk
Trailing edge stock is almost OK but it is right angle triangle not an isosceles triangle and could be used.
The crucial thing is balsa selection. Balsa varies more than any timber- some is soft and lightweight , some is hard and heavy. You need the right weight for particular item. All tailplane parts need to be light but quite firm in texture. All spars need to be very hard, never soft. Ribs are best cut from quarter grain (ribstock ) Fuselage sides need to be light but firm. Formers can be hard or medium. Its a matter of experience to assess whats right for where. A good supplier will help you and the Balsa Cabin allow you to specify grade for each part.
A pair of digital kitchen scales will reveal the amazing difference in weight of some sheets and you have to feel how the balsa bends (or not ) and crushes under your thumb to work out the proper bit to use.
Buy plenty extra and different grades, especially if you need to buy mailorder as the minimum order is high. Generally you cut to width but it is not worth trying to cut wing spars at all Other .stripwood could be cut if you have a balsa stripper (SLEC used to sell them ) but it is easier to buy strip.
Rudders etc can be shaped ( tapered in thickness )from sheet with a Razor plane or Permagrit block.
Obviously if you bought a kit it should have just the right grade and size. However many complain that some kits are poor balsa selection so prefer to build from scratch. But you will have to learn by experience.
Start work on a small bit first such as tailplane and fin. If it is not perfect you could afford to make again.
|Thread: Sopwith Dove|
Does anyone know if the Sopwith Dove 1/8 scale from the 1984 RC Scale Aircraft Special is exactly the same plan as the Rc Scale Aircraft August September 1994 plan No MAG 152 ?
Did they re-publish exactly the same plan or amend it in any way?
Edited By kc on 25/06/2009 13:30:37
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