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Member postings for kc

Here is a list of all the postings kc has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Transferring Plans Onto Balsa
23/10/2010 19:32:25
Photocopy or tracing paper and then stick onto balsa with doublesided tape or Prit Stik etc Cut right through the tracing or photocopy into the balsa.  On ply just score the surface and run a pencil around the scoring.
The latest type of printer/scanner/copier seem to copy to exact size, but check.  If you can unclip the scanner top you can get right into the middle of a plan.
Many other ways too.

Edited By Tim Mackey - Administrator on 23/10/2010 19:47:16

Thread: Fail safe
23/10/2010 19:21:38
I had the situation recently that on 4 flights out of 5 the engine shutdown on the first turn after takeoff at exactly the same spot. With the the aerial end on to the model.  I suspected that or  low battery failsafe ( on a 35 mhz 6EXA which has only low  battery failsafe )  but evenytually after substituting battery, Rx , switch etc I decided it must be a tank problem!  A model which had done hundreds of flight and never a hint of trouble.  I reckon the clunk tube had gone soft & stretched a little over time and was sucking itself onto the back of the tank at full throttle.  Slightly shortening the new clunk tubing cured the problem.
Worth checking all sorts of things.
 
Thread: 'ello Dolly
23/10/2010 18:50:16
A friend used a drop out piano wire u/c which looked like a normal u/c but which had vertical bits which fitted into tubes in the fuselage.  Being loose the u/c dropped out easily.  A published plan later used this  too but I cannot remember which one.
This looks more scale than a dolly. I would say a take off from a dolly which looks like a model bedsted designed for Blue Peter looks far worse than wheels dangling down in flight!

Edited By kc on 23/10/2010 18:53:29

Thread: Flight Boxes/Fuel Pump Location
23/10/2010 18:39:23
These open flight boxes are OK but note that the BMFA some years ago advised not to put fuel inside a sealed box with anything electric.  It seems someone opened such a box and a spark ignited the fumes which caused serious facial burns!  Methanol seems safe but just watch Indy Car racing to see what a methanol fire can do .
Many people use plastic tool boxes with both fuel and electrics inside ignoring this recommendation.
Thread: engine mounts
23/10/2010 18:24:37
That is larger than any of the mounts I have so I dont know what will fit.  SLEC mounts have different spacing like that but much smaller dimensions on the sizes I use.  You could ask your local shop what mounts fits a Saito 82 and then see if it also fits your engine.  and measure the hole spacing.
If you cannot find what fits then it may be easier to re drill and fit new captive nuts. ( use the trick of a long threaded rod poked thro the hole and put the captive nut on and draw in to the ply using a nut and washer. Removing old captive nuts should be easy using a bolt that fits and a hammer!)
If the access is limited by the cowl then maybe make an adaptor plate, say 1/4 birch ply with captive nuts for a new mount and secured by countersunk bolts into the old captive nuts. This needs the bolt holes not to coincide anywhere of course or angle the engine a little. Also brings the prop driver further forward which may help or hinder you, so measuring first would be worthwhile.
Thread: Electrifying free plan models
22/10/2010 20:02:50
Well ARTF are either made by near slave labour or very likely to be made by child labour.  It might help the children to be educated instead!  Once named and shamed big retailers have said they have stopped using child labour.
But its put British workers out of jobs.  We can all name British kit makers that disappeared in the last few years.  Plus at least one ARTF maker from England who no longer advertises.  Globalisation if left unchanged will result in the British workers having to live on a pittance.  We need British factories producing goods.
 
The ARTF attitude results in people scrapping models instead of repairing or building for themselves.  I have been told by a friend that he has been given 9 Seagull PC9 's all wrecked and thrown out by the same man!  ( not in Britain  ) Crazy!
 
Lets get back to the comments on electric though. 

Edited By kc on 22/10/2010 20:04:35

Thread: Does anyone have a clever way of seeing how much fuel is left?
22/10/2010 18:45:06
The clever people at SLEC have thought of this and sell  tanks that have 2 extra outlets top and bottom normally blanked.  If you open them up and connect a bit of fuel tubing between them it becomes a fuel level gauge.  Its on all the square tanks I think but the catalogue does say "  used as an external  sight gauge perhaps "
 
Something else to go wrong potentially but if you need a fuel gauge......
Thread: engine mounts
22/10/2010 11:54:53
If you tell us the spacing of the holes in  the firewall we might be able to say which engine mount  fits e.g. SLEC or Radio Active etc.

Edited By kc on 22/10/2010 11:55:31

Thread: Building the Gordon Whitehead Fly Baby
22/10/2010 11:13:02
Regretably I do not have the Oct74 RM.  The information came from a 1986 Plans Handbook.  It was always stated that one could buy a photocopy of the original article from Plans Service if you told them what date it was in.  Perhaps selling article copies is the reason why last year David Ashby didnt want me to scan the article for a 'classic' plan and place it here on Modelflying..  I thought it would interest people in buying a copy of the plan!
 
Why you dont get the instructions when you pay for a plan is something I dont understand.
 
I do have the Radio Modeller issue with the Gordon Whitehead Turbulent design though
21/10/2010 12:02:53
Thanks for putting the wingtip photos in,  should help builders of this classic model.
I am sure this model will appeal to others, but the lack of the original instructions could be a problem.  Wouldnt it be nice if Mr Ashby put the instructions for such classics in the online articles section?  Might encourage plans sales. (  its the Oct 74 Radio Modeller)
Thread: Electrifying free plan models
21/10/2010 11:23:00
Steve,
The planes you recommend are ARTF I think.   I believe that ARTF can only  be produced by paying people only 'slave' wages.  Anyone who has built a model knows the number of hours it takes.  Divide that into the cost and it is obvious the actual builder was paid very little after the dealers have had a cut.  Even with mass production it must surely be a mainly hand made item.  So it is completely against my principles to buy an ARTF!
The pleasure in aeromodelling is building the model ones self and then flying it!  Anything less is not aeromodelling!
Thread: flashing red and green lights on TX
21/10/2010 10:56:48
The red & green LED's are deep inside the case and not easily seen on the 6EXA 2.4 They showed up better ( unlit ) when directly underneath a lamp last night, but today in sunlight they are hardly visible, but there underneath the unused crystal holder area.  It is a TX made for 35 as well as 2.4
The LED's are used when linking / binding to the Rx to indicate when a signal is sent.

Edited By kc on 21/10/2010 11:00:06

Thread: CE marking
21/10/2010 10:47:06
The entire internet seems to have the website address clearly shown in links except Modelflying!   I think it is essential that one can see what site you intend going to before you highlight or click it.   How else can one be reasonably sure  that it wont connect to some pornography site or load something on the computer that will land you in jail.
 Why is Modelflying an exception? 
20/10/2010 19:20:51
If you look at this website
You will see that they are selling what they say are non CE marked receivers (in Britain I think )&   they say in the data that you will  not be covered by your insurance.  Surely this is ridiculous!  Who but a fool would fly something uninsured.  Why are they selling them?
 
Where is the BMFA when you need them?

Edited By Tim Mackey - Administrator on 20/10/2010 20:57:44

Thread: flashing red and green lights on TX
20/10/2010 18:39:55
If it is that new then you should have insisted on a replacement or your money back from the shop.   Assuming it was clearly not  due to misuse or damage.  Personally I would not accept a repaired item, in the circumstances, for future reliability.
( sure enough there are leds on the back of a 2.4ghz Tx- where the crystal would have been on 35 mhz )

Edited By kc on 20/10/2010 18:44:40

Thread: acid etching
20/10/2010 17:57:50
RC Scale Aircraft Spring 1986 had an article on this but its more a model train or boat thing.   ( just a typical David Boddington thing when he was editor - get specialist articles on all aspects of modelling )
 
there is some info at 
http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/alanann/saltire9.htm
 
It would appear you prepare the artwork and send it to a specialist for etching.
Thread: Electrifying free plan models
20/10/2010 13:20:40
Peter Miller stated in a thread about the RV3 that all these designs were built by him to the lowest weight practical ( for glow of course ).  Looking at the plans I accept Peters comment  & strongly disagree with the 'outhouse' comment.  But its to some extent a matter of opinion.
For electric I expect that the typical 1/4  birch ply engine former normally used for IC could be reduced to 1/8 and would be smaller too because further forward.  Also the 1/32 ply doubler could be reduced in height or eliminated because the main weight ( LIpo ) will perhaps be further back than the than the heavy lump of glow engine.  The built up balsa cowls might be lightened but would be more work, which could be unnecessary if any lead is needed up front.  The wing sheeting might be reduced in extent but not much. Built up tailplanes could be used.   Peters undercarriage design seems minimal for metal and only carbon fibre would be lighter perhaps.
A 3S220 Lipo plus ESC plus electric motor weighs around 10 ounces compared to 12 ounces for an OS 40 FP etc.  Maybe another ounce for tank and fuel proofing.
So really only a few ounces could be saved, perhaps 4 oz, for electric..
Thread: Building the Gordon Whitehead Fly Baby
20/10/2010 11:21:42
For the benefit of anyone building this model please explain the correct way to build the wingtip. ( the photo seems to show flat on the board, was this the correct way or the wrong way? )

Edited By kc on 20/10/2010 11:26:52

Thread: Electrifying free plan models
20/10/2010 11:17:06
Well perhaps I should re-phrase my comment " most aeromodellers" .....by that I was referring to the majority of people who do lots of flying!   In my experience most of my fellow club members did not experiment much, maybe on a few occasions trying different props on glow engines etc.   Perhaps I have just belonged to the clubs where flying is the main thing not experimenting!   ( living in a suburban area where flying is done in public parks and therfore flying in a very disciplined way may inhibit experimentation and therefore affect the club  ethos )
I think the fact that ARTF models are so popular proves that most model fliers dont experiment much (but of course they are not actually aeromodellers anyway! )
So even though I think they are a small minority we rely heavily on those who experiment!  
 
So far lots of helpful comments on electrifying but nobody has said that they have built these free plan planes for electric.   Maybe it is not worth doing, maybe a puprose built electric model is easier.  If so which  plans built model?  My requirement is a smooth aerobatic flier about 50 inch span and built from balsa, not made from unobtainium.
19/10/2010 19:08:30
Most aeromodellers seem to like building and flying but mostly dont want to experiment.  We just want a simple formula that works well!
If anything is holding electric back it is the lack of 'instant solutions' like there is in glow powered models ( i.e. any experienced modeller can tell you what to fit in a 4.5 pound Wot4 --fit a modern 40 2 stroke with 10x 6 to 11x 7 it will fly well, fit a Merco 35 it will be marginal, ballistic with any 60 etc. )
But for all those published models I mentioned there is little in the way of hard fact on what to use!  (  excluding the helpful comments on this thread )
 
Perhaps we need a special thread with just details of what worked ( or didnt ) for each published design that people  tried with electric power. ( Just the basic facts )
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