Here is a list of all the postings kc has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: RCM&E Plans Available?|
Sarik should have all RCME,Radio Modeller, Scale Aircraft Quarterly, old Aeromodeller, RC ModelWorld etc plans.
If you want a plan from a recent RCME pull out ('free' plan then it's better ( much cheaper!) to try to get a back number of RCME. Hwever I see that the latest plans such as Moon Dancer 2 don't seem to be listed by Sarik yet.
|Thread: Woodn't you like to know|
A Miles Magister as a first build? I think most people would advise against such a model. That's not to say it's impossible, just it would be easier to get a few simple models built first and gain experience. Much better to put aside and build something simpler first that could be built in much less time. Scale models have so many fiddly bits that need to be correct. Sports models don't need to have the fancy parts - they just need to fly well so construction is quicker and easier.
Edited By kc on 13/05/2020 13:56:25
|Thread: For Better or for worse|
That's an amazing yarn!
The solution is to accept that it was YOUR fault and get your dinners cooked etc rather than say that the driver should check the vehicle before driving!
|Thread: Woodn't you like to know|
Neil, if you specify which model you are building and the plan or kit then probably you will get more advice and hints.
Nobody has answered the question on spars, braces and engine bearers.
For spars I prefer to use spruce rather than hard balsa - it must be really hard balsa to be any use for spars on most RC models so spruce is the substitute I use. Also possible to use softwood like pine as sold by B&Q etc in 6mm sq section etc in about 8ft lengths but watch out for the 'finger joints' which are used in this timber and dont use that section near the root only at the tip. ( finger joiniing is almost invisible in the wood until you look closely and you will see it) Make sure the length is straight. Spruce from SLEC or Balsa Cabin is available in 48 inch lengths as well as 36 which is handy for some designs.
Wing braces should be a good type of ply such as birch ply not the cheap DIY ply which is weaker due to thicker centre section of poor timber between nice looking outer layers. Lite ply ( from SLEC or Balsa cabin etc ) is probably not suitable unless actually specified by the designer.
Engine bearers are normally beech. Could be any good hardwood like mahogany if that is all that is available. Beech is easily obtainable in engine bearer sizes from balsa suppliers, but a good source of free beech is scrapped chair or table legs if you care to saw it down yourself - just utilise the flat surfaces and saw away the usually tapered bit. A bit of effort but free and the best seasoned timber you can find after it's been indoors in a centrally heated house for decades. Depends on the design but most people now use plastic or alloy engine mounts for glow. But a beech engine bearer might be part of the fundamental design on older designs.
It's a mystery why such basic things as the Woodnt you article is available to subscribers only long after it was published. Should be availble free to help newcomers etc.
|Thread: Toying with selling up|
Peter it would probably be helpful if you explained a bit more about your Aixam which is a very rare car -what licence group do they come under? - do new motorcycle licences cover this type of 4 wheel car? Do you pay road tax like most cars? Are they RHD?
Aside from the Aixam iwas going to suggest buying a classic car- something just old enough to rate as a tax free, and allegedly low insurance cost car. I would suggest looking for a 25 year old Toyota or Mazda as very reliable possibly underrated classic. Keep for years and only go up in value surely?
If you are young then a car licence is a necessary item for many jobs and useful anyway. So it's more cost effective in the long run. However if a motorbike is the only thing then consider asking a clubmate or instructor to keep your plane and just take the Tx and supply of batteries or fuel on the bike.
It's a bad time to sell any s/h gear - lots of people with little income and poor job prospects, while it's very likely there will be a price increase in everything imported and the near certainty of steep VAT increases to pay for Lockdown. Therefore replacement would not be cheap in a year or so.
Edited By kc on 12/05/2020 16:17:09
|Thread: Ultra Stick fuselage build.|
What size is the wing?
Depending on wingspan you could download an Ugly Stik or Ultra Stik 54 plan from Outerzone and use that to make a fuselage. Note that the wingseat may need to be modified to suit the wing as the airfoil shape seems to have been modified in some variations of the basic Ugly Stik.
Much easier to save all the old crashed parts and use as pattern to make new. Easier still if you draw around every component before starting a kit or ARTF to ensure you have patterns available just in case.
Edited By kc on 12/05/2020 16:04:02
|Thread: Plans for Bowman 110 ins Sailman|
I have a system for finding lost things-
1 it's most likely to be where I last used it.
2. If I cannot remember where I last used it or saw it then what is the most logical place I would have last used it.
3. If it's not in 1 or 2 then where would my wife have put it whilst "tidying up" ? ( Unknown unknown or known unknown? )
4. If it's not in those places it's either been thrown away or hiding in plain sight - that is amongst other similar items and not recognised. That is to say a plan might be hiding amongst other plans or be rolled up with another plan ( most likely??) or put into the wrong magazine or kit box.
5. if it does not turn up quickly then buy another one and sure as anything the original will turn up.
In respect of your lost plan then unless someone offers you a plan then perhaps consider buying the same item on e bay if possible and copying the plan then sell the item on afterwards to recoup the cost.
If you cannot find one to buy on E-bay then it's a rare kit which should fetch a good price so sell your kit on E-bay stating plan is missing and let it be someone else's problem!
Edited By kc on 12/05/2020 10:10:46
|Thread: Gary's Ballerina Build|
That's a problem then! More reason to build to the plan size. One of the joys of building from a plan is that the designer has done all the hard work -thinking- for you and you just do the enjoyable buiding bit.
You don't need to chop the ends off a junior hacksaw blade - the pins just press out. Using the blade as a pullsaw makes it so much easier for many jobs as the thin blade does not buckle while pulling.
For really tricky sawing work one of those oscillating ( vibrating) multi tool saws can do the near impossible. Too expensive just for models so find a household use to justify the purchase!
|Thread: Gary's Ballerina Build|
All you need for scaling up is just the outline - there is no need for detail. Rather than use proportional dividers if you use a calculator and put the conversion factor in as a constant ( press XX twice?) then all you have to do is to measure with a rule put into calc and then press = you get the new measurement. No need to put the conversion in again until you turn it off. Measuring in mm seems easiest.
You could scan all the formers, ribs and shaped parts onto an A4 scanner by rolling the plan ( like an ancient scroll in 2 rolls) , selecting the formers etc and scan. Then print in Acrobat to the actual new scale you want- either 100 percent or 125 percent etc. You might only need the wing seat area of the fuselage as the rest may be just straight lines.
The tricky part is deciding what material sizes to use as straight forward scaling up is not applicable for most parts.
|Thread: Balsacraft Limbo Dancer IC|
No there is no wing joiner tube it's a one piece wing. Just two paper tubes to take aileron servo wires.
Edited By kc on 10/05/2020 19:31:26
Edited By kc on 10/05/2020 19:33:20
SLEC is the current name for Balsacraft. Website is here.
For anyone on a strict budget ( that's most of us now) there is a free plan for a fairly similar model called Joey or Kanga in this thread by Martyn K. Three years ago Martyn offered a pdf of this or his own version, maybe he still would if asked.
Edited By kc on 10/05/2020 19:24:51
Edited By kc on 10/05/2020 19:41:09
I reckon that it might be better to consider sawing it out - sawing out the box in the fuselage perhaps and eventually retaining the ply tongue hopefully intact. Maybe just sawing one side of the joiner box might work. Use a japanese type pull saw with no 'back' to get in the way and very fine teeth.
Sometimes drastic surgery is the easiest and most satisfactory way.
|Thread: Can you help me with balsa thickness and type for plan build glider ?I|
It is amazing how much balsa and especially ply cost now. Add in the cost of the snakes, horns, bands, dowel etc I would be surprised if the bill came to less than the cost of the Coyote kit! SLEC use good parts ( their own mostly ) in their kits so they are good value.
Didn't David Ashby do a review of the Coyote in a recent RCME or is my memory failing?
Before you finalise your order for balsa check out the SLEC Coyote kit which is very similar and at 49 pounds is pretty cheap and probably not much more than you might spend on balsa and all the linkage parts if you start from scratch. Building from the kit might provide an insight into plan building in future if you note the way they use the thickness and grain.
Studying the plan I notice there are 2 dihedral braces which look like 1/8 thick but whether they would be balsa or ply I cannot say. Obviously the grain must be spanwise but the component is the only part not illustrated. Also note that there is 1/16 shear web on the spars out to a certain point on each wing.
All the parts shown together as one sheet would clearly be the same thickness. It seems the formers may be 1/8 and perhaps they are lite ply as the sheet seems too wide for balsa. SLEC sell Lite ply and it cuts easily with a Stanley knife with repeated passes of a new sharp blade.
Top tip -- next time you buy a kit draw around all the shaped components onto lining paper etc and mark material, thickness and grain direction. The you can replace any component or even make a new model from the data.
Nobody has answered yet and I have not built the model but maybe somebody who has built it will answer soon.
My opinion is the sides would be 3/32 but it always depends on the density of balsa - very light 1/8 would weigh much the same as medium 3/32 and perhaps do the same job. 1/16 would seem to thin unless very hard balsa. Note grain direction - top is crossgrain 1/16 while fuselage sides would be grain lengthwise.
Hardwood spars are usually spruce. Dowel is birch dowel ( never balsa for wing dowels ) or simila. Model usues rubber bands to hold wings, so buy some wing bands from SLEC- must be tight and needs about 6 for safety. The fuselage side that takes the dowels seems to have some ply in that area - could be 1/32 birch ply the parts are on the plan nearest the tailplane. Very important to reinforce around dowels..
You can buy threaded rods from SLEC or Balsa Cabin etc. and matching clevis. Making a Z bend in soft rod is easy or buy special Z bend pliers if you use piano wire. Must be Z bend not simple 90 degree bends unless using SLEC swing in keepers etc. Otherwise the 90 degrees pulls out in flight!. If you should need a rod threaded at both ends don't bother with a die the rod probably has a rolled thread which means that increases diameter and it wil be undersize for a die. You could buy a solder on threaded part from SLEC but a z bend will be fine for this type of model. So use a threaded rod and z bend the other end ( or simple 90 degree plus swing in keeper.)
First of all have you read all the supplementary sections ( instructions& reviews) on the Outerzone section for this model? Maybe they will help. Ask further questions here as needed - someone will help.
Edited By kc on 06/05/2020 16:29:29
Edited By kc on 06/05/2020 16:39:05
Edited By kc on 06/05/2020 16:44:15
Edited By kc on 06/05/2020 16:49:41
Edited By kc on 06/05/2020 16:57:12
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