Here is a list of all the postings Adrian Smith 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Pilot RC Sbach 100cc|
Nice tidy work there, Rich. Do you know what size/type of prop you will use? Was the servo matching unit easy to do the job?
|Thread: Glen's Models 35% Extra 330 electrification|
Yes Rich they are both exactly the same. The light makes one look green and the other black, but they are both black!
As I am a lazy so-in-so I decided to use the PowerBox MicroMatch units on both wings for complete servo accuracy after all. I bought them from Nexus Models who supplied them very quickly. I have not put them on the wings yet, but I will cover the process in a later post here. I will be doing it via the PowerBox App using the BlueCom unit. Took me a while to find the App to download it. Not IT literate being the problem
Bruce, I have used plastic clips on the servo wire extension joints this time. In the past I have used heatshrink on the joints, but the wires didn’t like it (ask me about the heat used! )
On to the servo horns. Now the Macgregor servos are compatible with Futaba fittings (25 teeth I think) so I drilled out the metal arms which will be bolted to a plastic servo arms. I would have used the Futaba discs, but they are too small so I had to use the star shaped arms.
Used blue threadlock here for the securing nuts. Fitted the arms to the servos and lined up the pushrods which will see the turnbuckles shortened a tad when setting up. The servo screws into the wing were unscrewed and thin cyano used to harden the wooden threads that were created by the screw.
Edited By Adrian Smith 1 on 15/10/2019 16:41:58
Started to fit the servos in the main wings. A bit of work here to start with as the servo slots in the wing are about 1mm too small for the servos I am using. That increased to job by 20 minutes or so.
Tried and trusted threading method for the leads using thin C/F rod.
Rumour has that it might be flying weather Thursday here so on with the assembly for a couple of sessions. The prop arrived today and I am starting with a 28x10 Menz. I know some guys use 30x10s, but I am trying to keep the current draw down to start with until I am sure of the motor performance et al.
Finished all the manufacture of the servo leads for the main wings.
|Thread: Kings Lynn Model Shop|
Until recently I would have given the thumbs up to KLM, but on a couple of recent occasions I have had reason to criticise the customer service. Three or four months ago I was looking to buy a Pilot RC kit (100cc) and there was a few that were not showing as out of stock on the website. I decided to phone up anyway to check just in case given the money involved and was told that "none were in stock and they shouldn't be on there anyway" ! The last occasion was Monday when I wanted to buy a Menz 28x10 wooden prop (£40+) and chastened by the last experience I decided to phone up, checking the opening hours first, to ensure stock availability. Tried three times on both numbers and got no answer.
The order went to Paul Gosling's Nexus Models whose website stock control I know from experience is very accurate. I paid a tad more for the prop, but at least I know where I am with them.
|Thread: Glen's Models 35% Extra 330 electrification|
Know what you mean Cymaz. Another miserably wet day in Suffolk!
Next I have to make the servo extension leads.
The outboard servos will need a 55 cms extension lead while the inboard servos will require 25 cms leads.
Oh well better get on with that job!
Edited By Adrian Smith 1 on 13/10/2019 17:08:39
Next job to do is fit the couplers to the aileron Secraft pushrods. Most important to note that the pushrod end with the engraved line is a right hand thread while the other end in a left hand thread. In this case they are 100mm turnbuckle rods.
The job of screwing anticlockwise coupler on was a bit of a challenge, but i got there in the end.
The bolted to the horns loosely.
Next I trimmed the aileron tube that stood proud of F1.
Trusty Dremmel used for that job.
Both wings needed doing.
Moving on to the main wing I needed to glue the claw nut inside former 1. In this case the nuts plus plastic bolts are provided and they seem to be M5 in size as far as the bolts are concerned.
The F1 rib has just about the right depth to take the claw nut so I used 5 minute epoxy while spreading Vaseline on the internal threads in case glue got on them. What usually do is slide a large washer on a bolt externally so the action of tightening the bolt draws the claw nut into the inner side of F1. Quite fiddly but got there in the end. In the meantime I had to enlarge the F1 hole to accept the claw nut which was about 6mm in diameter.
That done I screwed in an M5 bolt while the epoxy dried to make sure the Vaseline did its job.
Indeed, Rich. I do tend to go for the easy life!
Thanks Cymaz, I am trying to be disciplined, but I know sometimes I am an untidy worker.
I test fitted the motor leads to the ESC and confirmed they are a tight fit.
I will probably work on fitting the rest of servos next.
Next I decided to fit the HobbyWing OPTO ESC ready for attaching. I used 18 mm button head bolts (none supplied)
Not much space for working, but at least there is room for me to attach the programming box lead.
Back to the front of the aircraft, I decided to re-check the cowl and prop driver distance before re-fitting the motor permanently.
Seems ok so I used some NordLock washers with blue thread locker for the nuts within the motor box.
Now even after using wet and dry paper until I got bored on the tailplane C/F, tube I was still not happy with it. So in the end I ordered a 19mm O/D C/F tube from Amazon for a little over a tenner.
Nice and shiny too and I am glad to report it measures 19.1 mm and is a better fit all round. I cut it to length and installed it in the tail.
Edited By Adrian Smith 1 on 11/10/2019 16:52:25
Edited By Adrian Smith 1 on 11/10/2019 17:02:14
Ok so a bit more work. I made a false floor using 1/8th ply and screwed into place on the frame thereby giving me the option of removing it if I have to move things around. The other decision made was to leave the rudder servo spars in place as they are integrated into the airframe. Once again I will see how the eventual CoG balancing goes before I make a final decision.
In the meantime I am going to use these Overlander Lipos.
These will be wire up in series in pairs. I am working on the basis that I use two 5000 mAh lipos in series for my 60cc jobs very successfully, so two 10000 mAh lipos in series should be ok with luck. For the technically minded here is the data sheet :-
Given that in theory (and I know it's only theoretical) the discharge rate is 20C constant with 35C bursts possible running 200 amps minimum through the system should be fine using the HobbyWing OPTO ESC I have.
So both wires threaded through.
I intend doing all the rudder adjustment from the rudder end and not the servo end. This leads me on to the next problem.
The preinstalled servo spars and their location leads me to conclude that it has wasted some space given the internal area is not that great. I am thinking of removing the spars and instead installing a false ply floor to give me more space and just using an added piece of 1/4" ply with a cut out to house the rudder servo and position the servo nearer the rear of the plate, given I will not be adjusting the wires from there. This will give me more space to position the internal electrics/lipos etc. I will have to give it some more thought.
Want the latest issue of RCM&E? Use our magazine locator link to find your nearest stockist!