Here is a list of all the postings Mr.B. has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: BMFA subs increase.|
BMFA handbook item 13.2 layout of RC flying sites
|Thread: Airsail Chipmunk|
Dave, PM sent.
|Thread: YS 50 heli engine strip down|
I thought that too after posting, so it's now soaking in glow fuel and I'll try again in a few days. The hot air gun on max got it too hot to hold with welding gloves. To get it hotter would require a butane torch. Or there is a small machine shop nearby by who have a bearing oven.
I need to change the bearing on my YS50ST heli engine. With YSs to remove the piston you first have to pull the liner out. I have heated it with a hot air gun, domestic oven, soaked it in penetrating oil, pulled it, tried a small peace of wood through the exhaust and transfer ports and pushing with the piston and a brass drift on the bottom of the liner with increasingly big hammers. All to no avail. Any ideas any one (other than to buy an OS)?
|Thread: Long wait for car parts|
Your last post identifies what is going on. Your insurer have passed the claim onto a claim handling company. The handling company collected your car, are having it repaired and provided the hire car. They are whacking a healthy mark up on the repair and the hire car which they hope to reclaim from the other drivers insurers. The longer they can spin this out the more they make. Oh,and if they can't reclaim it from the other insurer guess where they will turn. Check carefully anything you have signed. If you were fully comp you did have the right to refuse the claim handling company and insist your insurer sort it out. I bet they didn't tell you that. Push hard to get this sorted ASAP. Claim handlign companies are why premiums are so high.
|Thread: Tuning For Flight|
Higher flow through the carb = high pressure difference = carb sucks fuel harder.
|Thread: Can't get INTO flat spin|
First, a couple of things. If the aircraft is cork screwing down it's not spinning it's in a spiral dive. And you said "sticks in the corners" you should (for the B test) enter the spin using elevator and rudder only. Spins result from stalling one wing. Therefore the entry must be right on the point of stall. Get high. Really high. reduce power. Keep pulling elevator to stop the nose dropping and slow the aircraft then just before it stalls add full rudder and pull the rest of the elevator if there is any left. It make take half a turn to a turn to develop into a full spin. For the B test you can add alieron now to keep it in the spin. The aircraft will rotate around it's CofG and not crock screw. Difficulty entering the spin can be because a)CoG to far forward b)not enough elevator throw c) entry to fast. Some models spin better one way than the other.
What model are you using?
|Thread: Question for John Harper|
A friend as asked me to make a adapter to fit the exhaust to a old second hand 1.20. I can turn an adpter but how did the exhaust fit? Or is this the wrong pipe for the engine?
|Thread: Model selection for "B" test|
Vic, Either model is capable of flying the schedule. Both are just over the minimum weight. Use a model you are comfortable with. I have found it can be difficult to get the foamy Wot4 to enter the spin but it can be done (having demonstrated the spin for candidates a few times). If you want a new model anyway I would suggest going for some thing a bit larger/heavier which will cope with weather a bit better.
|Thread: Receiver losing bind with servo use|
I don't think it is 'losing bind'. If it had it would need to be bound again with the bind plug. I suspect that the servo in question has a fault or the linkage is tight and is drawing high current causing a brown out.
|Thread: Uniflow fuel tank configuration|
I experimented by converting my FS powered Wots wot from normal 3 line set up to uni flow.......it didn't make any difference.
|Thread: Cowl for a Pup?|
Thanks cymaz. I did find that page, oddly a Pup cowl is not listed.
I'm been given an old Flair puppeteer which I am giving a new life with electric power. Unfortunately the cowl has been "trimmed" (ie hacked about). Does any one know where I can get a suitable replacement or does any one have one to spare?
|Thread: DX6e Wireless buddy box question|
Indeed, in pilot link master the instructors trims are applied to the student. If the student applies trim this is added to (or subtracted from) to the instructors trim.
|Thread: Secondhand Flair Pup|
My one is 130mm back from the top wing LE as per the flair instructions.
|Thread: Spektrum DX6 and ST Salto|
Yes, I was about to add that the only information saved on the RX is the fail safe positions (assuming it is not an AS3X gyro stabilized Rx). The controls will fail safe to the position at binding so if you subsequently find you have to revers the throttle things could get exiting. Not a clot, just something you didn't know that you now do.
"Stand well back" could be my motto.
Glad to hear you got it sorted. To the sky!
In my experience (DX8, DX9 and G1 DX6 owner) the most common cause of "bind failed" is holding the Tx to close the Rx when binding. Hold them at arms length and it works. Could it be you are confusing this effect with your other actions?
Also, why are you continually trying to re bind? Bind it and make any changes to the Tx programming, it should not drop bind.
Flight modes allow you to set several function to one switch. If you have not programmed anything to this switch you will get the audio report when you toggle it will have no effect.
Dual rates are indeed set under dual rates and expo. Select the switch you want to use and set the rate and expo you want for each position.
Hope this helps
|Thread: Glow plug helicoil kit|
Well, having baulk at the cost of a helicoil kit (£70 +vat) I packed the head off to Peter V, and everything you have said about him is true. I posted it off on Tuesday and it's back on the Heli now. Top man. All for 15 quid.
Thanks chaps. With the cost of glow plugs a thread repair will soon pay for it's self.
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