Here is a list of all the postings mal brewer has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
yes, you're quite right,I did attach the tailsurfaces before covering the model,and it did indeed make it a little awkward to cover.It did make it a bit easier to fair the fin into the fuselage,so it's a bit of a 'swings and roundabouts' situation.I think either way is correct,or possibly incorrect..................cheers,Mal.
thanks for the compliment.What I have done with the stringers on my model is to continue them right to the tailpost,they will all fit in,tho' it is a bit tight,but nothing to worry about.I notice you say you are going to trim the fuselage to allow a bit of down elevator.I have done mine slightly differently in that I have used a two-piece elevator,joined with a torque rod (posh name for a bit of wire),also I've glued the tail surfaces to the fuselage.Incidently,I meant to mention the other day that 'Litespan' does look like coloured Modelspan tissue,but only certain colours appear translucent.I think the colours are red,orange,yellow.I think all the other colours appear as 'solid' colours,also while it does shrink with heat,it shrinks nowhere near as much as Solarfilm or similar colours.Hope this is of some help to you,,,,,,,,,,,,,,cheers,Mal.
Bit of a technical hitch there...................but they have eventually came through.....................don't think I'll ever be a computer expert.!............Mal.
|Thread: Remember them?|
does anybody remember buying diesel fuel in a glass bottle,...............I think it may have been sold by 'E D', (electronic developments) to complement their range of engines................................Mal.
p.s. if I remember correctly,it cost about 3/6 (about 17 pence) a bottle in 1956-1957
hope I can help you a little with your 'Mams'elle'.I covered mine in Litespan,using Balsaloc as an adhesive.After covering,it is heat shrunk,carefully,as the heat softens the Balsaloc adhesive.I then sprayed a couple of coats of well-thinned clear dope onto the litespan,then colour trim in 2-pack paint,then finished the clear-doped sections,i.e. the wings,tailplane etc,with 2-pack clear ,as used by the car trade over metallic finishes.All this may not be nessarsary,as Litespan is claimed to be fuel-proof,but that's the way I did it.The (2) servos were fitted behind the ply former the holds the undercarriage,about level with the crutch,with the rx below them.For the rx power pack,I used a 4xaaa flat pack,strapped below the lower engine bearer,inside the engine cowl.I know that's not ideal,but the model was pretty tail-heavy by this stage.All-up weight is 14.9 oz,or 430 gm,I'm sure it could be made a little lighter with a simpler finish.So there it is,it may be a lesson what not to do,but it may be of some help to you.I'll post a couple of picture later,that's another hassle for me!.................cheers,Mal.
'mam'selle' was published as a free plan in 'aeromodeller' Christmas issue either 1956 or 1957,not quite sure which year,I built one from the plan while I was still at school,which was Merlin powered,just completed another,with a Boddo Mills 75 in........................cheers,Mal.
|Thread: Small Diesels|
The Frog 150 'Vibromatic' was a rear intake 1.5 cc diesel.The induction system consisted of a spring-loaded petal valve,which opened or closed according to crankcase pressure,in a similar manner to a reed valve.I never owned such an engine,but they seemed to get quite good 'write-ups' in the modelling press.I can confirm the merlin was a good little engine,in fact,I still have one in a Vic Smeed designed Ballerina,and I recently bought one,in a control-line model,for £8 at a car boot sale..................Mal
|Thread: OS46 Spinner Issue|
yes you're right,I too blew the picture up and could then see the flat in the prop-driver.Didn't see it earlier.So yes,it must be the shim washer ,or rather the lack of it,that's causing the problem..............................Mal.
just checked an OS 46AX,and the crankshaft has two flat sections,the prop-driver ( the piece you are holding) should have two correspondig flats in the centre hole,which yours appears not to,and there is indeed a black washer fitted between the crankcase and the prop-driver.Hope this helps..........................Mal.
That appears to be the wrong prop-driver for that engine.There seems to be a flat section on the crankshaft,and the prop-driver should have a corresponding 'D' shaped hole to fit.Not being familiar with your engine,I am judging this from the photograph.If this is the case,it would seem you have the wrong prop-driver for some reason....................Mal.
|Thread: Don't just stand there, get one up!|
model's looking really good.In answer to the problem of the titebond 'rivets' sagging as they dry,I found (not my idea,btw) that pva white glue,mixed with talcum powder to a creamy consistancy,dried out very nicely when applied to the model via a syringe.Obviously it must not be mixed too thick,or it will be impossible to push through the syringe needle.On occasion,I have substituted the syringe needle for a piece of small-bore tube.As regards obtaining a grease-free surface prior to painting,the stuff I use is 'panel-wipe',which is available from auto-paint suppliers.Keep up the good work.............Mal.
|Thread: Completed Webbit Gallery|
|Thread: History of Rc Modelling!|
I would say that propo radio became affordable (just!) for the average modeller round about 1969-1970,when Futaba brought out their 'Digimax' outfit,which was sold with a complete set of crystals and frequency flags.Mind this was on 27 mgh,and there were only 6 frequencies.The colour codes were red,yellow,green,brown,blue,and orange.I can't remember now which colour was which frequency.This outfit,.iirc,was about £150 ,still a big chunk of cash in those days.I remember a couple of years earlier that a Kraft or Orbit radio,top stuff,was the same price as a new austin minivan.When I bought my Futaba,I couldn't afford 4 servos,so I bought it with three,and saved up for the other servo,which cost about £18.Don't forget,these were,by today's standards,very basic radios,no servo reversing,no mixing or expo etc.We used to have 2 servos that would travel one way on command,coloured red,and two,coloured black,that would travel in the opposite direction.However,despite the cost,I think a lot of modellers took to proportional via Futaba,although a few other reasonably priced makes came out,I think Futaba gained a head start,which,perhaps,they have never lost.....................Mal
I tend to agree with what you are saying,having said that,it was in the late '60's-early '70's when I thought I read it,so I could well be wrong.Don't forget,also,that Doug Spreng was a top-class flier,a one-time world aerobatic champ.I remember his model,the 'Twister',being published as a plan by 'Radio Modeller' magazine,with an article describing his aerodynamic thoughts,which the writer 'pylonius' promptly had a good-hearted amusing 'dig' at.Does anybody remember 'P'ylonius'. Who was it,and what happened to him? Doug Spreng,together with Harry Brooks,went on to form 'Sprengbrook' radio systems.....................Mal.
I seem to recall reading ,a long time ago ,that Doug Spreng invented the feed-back potentiometer,which is the basis of a proportional servo.......................Mal
|Thread: Don't just stand there, get one up!|
the stopper I am using is made by Autopains International, but it can be obtained at any car paint supplier,or possibly at a garage that carries out body repairs and repaints.The stuff to ask for is '2-pack stopper',or as it's sometimes called,'2-K stopper'.It's a polyester based product,like P38 filler,but like I said,much easier to work with......................good luck,Mal.
rather than using P38 filler to build up your panels,I have found that using a car finishing product known as 2-pack stopper is a lot easier to sand down.You may know of the product,it is a sort of thinner fibreglass filler,it mixes and smells the same as P38,it just sands a bit easier,and feathers into the surrounding primer a lot easier.You're doing a great job,by the way,all the models I had planned for Greenacres seem to be further away from being finished the more I do to them....................Mal.
next month ???
|Thread: History of Rc Modelling!|
Incidentally,galloping ghost was produced commerically,Fleet raio,produced by Derek A Olley,of Fleet,Hampshire,used to make one,which sold with a Rand LR3 actuator.I had one,but never really had a lot of sucess with it,and eventually tradea it in for a second-hand OS ten-channel reed outfit,from Roland Scott's shop,when it was in Bolton,that was round about 1968.The OS was a beautiful set,the only trouble I had with it was ironically with the only British built part of the outfit,the Climax Servomite actuators,which would occasionally stick at full travel,Not funny!By the way,a ten-channel reed outfit has only the same number of functions as a four-channel propo outfit,as two channels are used for each control(i.e. one channel for up elevater,one channel for down elevater,etc)+ two channels are used for elevater trim.The whole outfire was a considerable size and weigdt,about the smallest model was around 60" span,with a 35-60 engine.......Mal.
Yes it could be.Colonel Bowden used to own a model shop in Birmingham called Kanga Models,named after one of his record-breaking models,the 'Kanga' biplane.This shop,which traded in the '50's,was run by his wife...................Mal.
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