Here is a list of all the postings MaxG has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: inverter generators|
Go to your local car scrap yard and see what car batteries they have there and see what they want for them.
Probably much cheaper than a leisure battery. May not last as long but you can probably get several for the price of a new leisure battery.
Andy, In your case Eva Brothers on High Street East may solve your problem.
|Thread: Howzat II|
Thank you Bob
Used to be the way it was done before fancy expensive wing retaining methods were invented by those who wish to sell high price accessories.
Make a long wire hook about 50 mm longer than fuselage width.
Slide wing one side onto the joiners, put a suitable rubber band(s) onto the hook on the wing. Put the long hook through the fuselage and hook it on to the elastic bands. Pull the hook through the fuselage and when the bands appear turn the long hook so the band is retained. Settle the wing properly on to the wing dowels. Note the the long wire hook is still keeping the rubber band in place so you have 2 hands to put the second wing half on to its joiners. Ease the bands over the retaining hook in the second wing half and remove your long hook and settle the second wing half into place. Easy peasy.
The difficult bit is to find your long hook where you put it down in the long grass etc where you were assembling the plane.
While you are making the long hook make a couple of spares and keep then in your flying tool box or even the car glovebox. Bitter experience!!!!
|Thread: Jimmy Stewart Bomber Pilot|
Came across this book in the library and have really enjoyed it. The author Starr Smith was an intelligence officer who served at the same time with Stewart. The book is a collection of remenisciences by those who served with him. Most are set at Tibbenham and Old Bucklingham near to Norwich.
One comment that really amused was was about Jimny Stewart sharing a flat in New York and building model aircraft there.
Corporal to Colonel in 4 years was some career.
|Thread: Ancestry. com.|
It cost us about £99 each but it has been at lower prices since.
They send you a kit that you use to provide a spit sample and then send it off to them. Ours went to Dublin if I remember correctly. Then they send you the results and you make of it what you wish. They also provide some contacts with others who have matching DNA. In the period since I have had about 3 contacts who apparently match some fairly close others more remote.
Found out that bossperson was 90%ish British and I was about thirds ish of British, Irish and Viking. We were both staggered by those results, definately not what we expected.
My wife and I bought each other the Ancestry DNA test for a Christmas present a couple of years ago. Had a very interesting set of results back . A very worthwhile gift for each of us.
|Thread: Cork Tiles|
I have used a building board of two layers of cork tiles on a blockboard base for years now. One thing I do is to cover it with a layer of thick lining paper as used for walls. I put it on with wallpaper paste and when it gets tatty I damp it to get it off and put another layer on. Means that I have a new board for every new model and the paper stops the tiles being impregnated with glue etc. You can also draw centre lines and the like on it when building.
|Thread: Greatmate stand|
Not too sure on all the bits but I think that the yellowspade like thing bottom right is a Tx holder.
The yellow round things are to put round magnetic trays on to stop little bits dropping on the ground.
Some of the square tubes are probably extenders to make it for bigger models etc. and to mount the Tx and magnetic holder stands
You could use the big tee pieces with a bit of chipboard as an extra workbench. That is what I have done.
|Thread: Get rid of wiring!!|
I am sure that it is not for us as yet but is more for military and aerospace in the near future. But that was how it was with 2.4 some years ago.
I just posted it for interest to show how things could go in the future.
Saw this which came from an organisation in which I have an interest, The Welding Institute based in Cambridge.
This could be the way we go in the future.
Anything to get rid of the tangle of wires I always seem to end up with in my models
Edited By Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator on 10/04/2018 10:21:51
|Thread: Lidl Sander|
I made one a long time ago from a washing machine motor. Has an adjustable angle fence. Would not want to be without it.
I use a permagrit disc on it and with that it is superb.
|Thread: 10J Binding|
Thank you again Dennis for your second post. It got me to thinking.
I have now found that the Link information on the used memories is revealed if yuo swap the transmission protocol. For the used memories I needed to swap the protocol to T-FHSS Air to get the link information. Tried a reset on those memories and whilst it deletes the programmed information it does not delete the link info.
If that is the case then I think that I can only use those memories with T-FHSS Air since if I change the protocol the link info disappears and it will not do a link with the S-FHSS protocol that I need to use with the heli I am trying to programme.
I guess now that those two memories are lost to me until I wish to programme something with T-FHSS Air protocol but at least I know that the memories are not irretrieveably lost which is what I first feared.
Will go back to trying to programme the heli later. By the way it is a T-Rex 150 which has a built in S-FHSS Rx built into its electronics which is why I need to use this protocol.
Thank you Dennis but that procedure does not work.
In step 3 the link line is -------- and not an ID number or a No Link message. From there on it does not work.
As I said if I go to an unused memory it does say NO LINK and then works. But I cannot make the transition from ------- to NO LINK which is what I want to do.
If it is not resettable then the 30 model memory will only work with 30 Rxs so if you have an Rx go down you have lost a memory.
I cannot believe that is the case. I do not mind if a full reset wipes everything as I am trying to programme my first model into the Tx
Thank you anyway
Have bought a 2nd hand TX and the previous owner had cleared all his models from it. So far so good.
I have set up a new model on a previously used memory but the memory will not allow me to bind a new receiver to it.
The menu says go to model select and go to Link and hold button down for 1 second and it beeps when it goes into link mode. The menu shows ----------- but it does not beep or go into link mode.
If I go to a memory that I believe has not been used and do the same thing it says No Link and when I press the button it tells me to turn the Rx on. This is what I expected.
How do I clear the link in previously used memories please.
|Thread: Mike Trew ASW 20 (Traplet)|
Sorry about that. Hopefully this will work.
It is for the longshaft motors from Xpower on the Topmodel website. www.topmodelcz .cz note the extra cz in before the full stop.
Have a look at this page for motors. The long shaft option could be useful. I have one fitted to a Multiplex LS3 that is still in build.
If you do go for this make sure you get the prop centre as well.
|Thread: Dihedral in flying wing design?|
This site may be of help.
|Thread: From Lysander to Lightning|
Oh dear. Still I am sure you will emjoy it. I did.
The thread title is the title of a very readable book about Teddy Petter. It is by Glyn Davies and published by The History Press.
|Thread: Recommendations for good sunglasses|
Not sure if I remember correctly but isn't there a problem with polarised glasses and the Tx screens?
If you do try polarised ones try them with your Tx.
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