Here is a list of all the postings MaxG has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: The final straw.Spectrum doubts|
|Thread: travelling abroad|
The site kc links to is the one I used a couple of weeks ago to renew my card. I had to create a login and password and then needed the number off my old card and my national insurance number. That login also allowed me to renew my wife's card as well with the necessary info for her. Very quick and easy to do. The new cards turned up in about 4 days. All very efficient. If i remember correctly you can renew up to 6 months before expiry .
|Thread: Using epoxy resin Araldite|
I must admit that I do all the mucky part of building in the shed but during the winter I bring in my tray of various glues into the house and keep them at house temperature except for cyano. That lives mostly in the fridge.
I also bring in the battery powered tools I have since I lost a power drill to corroded contacts some years back.
Lipos also live in the house in winter but are always charged outside. The greenhouse is good for this.
I also bring in glued assemblies so they dry in the proper warmth.
|Thread: Robins Pathological Basis of Disease|
Do you not have access to an Oxfam bookshop? They would be delighted with it as they have quite a market in books such as this through their wide distribution network and I believe ebay.
|Thread: Tweedy Bird (Small Dirty Bird)|
I have a Birby 40 hanging in the garage that I keep considering what to do with. Has only just escaped the dustbin although the airframe is OK. Just needs a clean and recover. Had an Irvine 40 in it.
|Thread: Wing tube dimensions|
As a way of designing a wing spar a tube is a pretty poor way of doing it. It has lots of material in places where it is not effective and very little in the place where it is wanted. A wing spar is a beam and as such should be designed as one.
Use of tube is useful for joiners because you can get the tube and joiner bar as close fitting pieces. But the joiner tubes should be integrated into a proper spar system designed as a beam.
A tube as a beam is over heavy compared to what is needed as a properly designed beam.
Just my thoughts.
|Thread: Rules of thumb for electric flight|
Looks a good set of rules and the modern ones do not seem to be far from them.
May well help the beginners in electric flight.
|Thread: Apt attire|
If you can find the slogan you want there are always local places that will print them for you. Even in Lincolnshire, so if you are in or near a metropolis it should be even easier.
|Thread: Model shops in and around Derby|
I didn't remember the "Goodyears" name but remember the shop and the fact that it was by the newsagents.
I also remember the Spondon shop and have bought there in the past as it was near where my in-laws lived.
If I go back further in the old memory banks I seem to remember that prior to Supermodels it was home to Terry Tippett and Micron RC. I bought my first set of radio gear as akit from there, A PL6D Tx and matching Rx which I successfully built and used. I still have the gear and keep thinking about modifying it with a 2.4 set up as per Phill Green.
Ashby is a way away as I will be staying at Kilburn near Belper. So it looks a though I will have to give any visits a miss.
Thank you all for the help and also the trip down memory lane.
Will be near Derby in the near future and wondered what model shops there are now and if they are worth visiting.
When I lived there a lot of years ago there was one adjacent to Royces in either Grosvenor street or Hawthorn Street just off Nightingale Road.
|Thread: Cheap, easy to use basic 2d/3d Software Design|
Lots of other threads on this site on the topic of "which?". Have a look at those first.
I picked up a copy of Turbo Cad for about a tenner in Maplins a few months ago.
LibreCAD is free.
Both are quite easy to use with plenty of YouTube videos to help.
Both are 2d only though.
|Thread: Did Santa bring you anything nice ?|
Yes the DFS in Brigg appeared to be open when we drove past on return form daughter's.
Haven't people got better things to do?
|Thread: Vulcan and Guy Martin|
Thanks for the info.
|Thread: glue for carbon fibre|
Two thoughts here from experience.
If the leg has broken at the point where it enters the holder at the Fuselage end extract the stub piece left in the holder. Note that there is a retainer that you need to push in that is in a small recess in the holder. You then pull the old stub out using the little flange that is where the break is. Look at the exploded diagram on the parts in the hand book and then use a magnifying glass to look at the actual bit. All should then be clear.
Replace the leg with a fine wire new one pushed into where the retainer went. Glue if you wish I didn't.
Alternatively if the leg has broken part way down Get a short piece of wire or cf rod and bind it to the broken bit then bind that to the bit that is still attached to the model. When you have done that get the wheel turned into line and put a drop of cyano onto the thread binding and you should find that all is now OK.
|Thread: Modelling Tools|
I bought a Maun Safety Rule a very large number of years ago and have never regretted it. Fingers are well out of the way and it is less likely to slip than a flat rule. If you are starting up and want a good cutting guide then this should be for you.
|Thread: Mainlink Delta 4 2000|
I have a Mainlink Delta 4-2000 and a Digiliser 2000.
I am now not using much in the way of Nicad or NiMH batteries. Is there anything else that these can be used for or is it a case of getting rid of them to free up space for other things.
|Thread: Carbon tube/snake push rod|
I use 4mm tube that has about a 1mm wall leaving a 2 mm hole. The screwed end is then inserted with a bit of epoxy. Cover the end with heatshrink and the job is a good one.
The 4mm has always seemed stiff enough for me.
As an aside, if you make shortish pushrods for servo in wing aileron linkages but are a bit unsure if the 2mm wire is stiff enough you can always slip a bit of 4 mm carbon tube over the wire befor screwing the clevis on. Stiffens it a treat for almost no weight and uses up odds and ends of carbon tube as well.
|Thread: Fournier RF4 or 5|
What about the peter Miller design:
Fournier RF-4 RC2085 Plan 74" span.
Various cnc and wood packs available on this site
The whole lot is equivalent to a kit I would think.
|Thread: Pulsar 3.2 electric glider.|
Not really a switch as such but you could (should?) put the throttle hold function, set at shut throttle, on the program for the model. Then when you turn on the Tx switch this function on before connecting up the model. Then if you accidentally nudge the throttle the motor does not spring to life.
Not as good as air between contacts on the power line I agree but an additional safeguard.
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