Here is a list of all the postings Allan Bennett has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Cheap Chinese Laser Cutter|
Displacing the joiner holes in the ribs is the only sensible way that I know.
|Thread: Latest CAA Update|
Thanks Peter and Martin. I've read Annex C and it's quite useful (if it's still current !) and I think what most concerns members of the club I fly with (and probably many others) is the uninvolved people rule which will apply to all self-built and 'legacy' models.
I've been trying hard to follow this (and other) discussions on the proposed regulations. I've read that something was going to be implemented by the beginning of October 2019, then 14th October 2019, and now I think I've read that it is 'unlikely to be before the beginning of November', or words to that effect. The last BMFA updates I saw were dated 30th September, in which they urged members not to rush into registering or taking the tests for the moment, and 11th October in which they updated us about documents published by EASA, and a report by the Science and Technology Parliamentary Select Committee.
Am I missing some important announcement, or is it fair to say that things are still in a state of flux, with scope of the regulations and BMFA exemptions still not finalised, and implementation date still not fixed (apart from the 400ft rule)?
|Thread: Receiver question|
I don't know what your experience is in RC, but just to add to CB's response above, the Rx (receiver) does send a constant voltage to the servo via its red and black wires in the 3-wire connecting cable. This provides power for the servo motor and the little electronics bits inside the servo that decode the signal and tell its motor what to do. The signal itself is transmitted to the servo via the third, white or yellow, wire in the 3-wire cable, and is as explained by CB.
|Thread: How to convert an ic to electric?|
Remember, a different size/weight battery will move the c of g, so your battery bay needs to be able to accommodate a range of battery positions so that you can always position the pack to give you the right c of g. In my experience, all my glow-to-electric conversions require plenty of weight up front because the electric motor is lighter than the engine it's replacing, so don't go too small/light with your battery.
|Thread: Latest CAA Update|
I don't believe that any insurance will cover you carrying out unlawful (or should that be 'illegal'?) activities.
|Thread: Lipo advice please|
Yes, it doesn't matter how many packs you put in series, they will result in a pack which is the sum of all the cell-counts voltage-wise, and the capacity of the smallest pack mAh-wise. As you say, identical spec. (capacity, C rating, and condition) is the best. Only practical problem is the extra wiring and plugs.
The packs don't have to be identical, but they need to be similar. Since they're in series, the total motor amps will be passing through both of them, so they both need to be specced to handle that amps.
Apart from the advantages of two packs mentioned above, since you've already got a 5S pack it's likely that it's a size you're using for one or more model already, so it's good to standardise. I use 6S packs singly in one heli, in parallel (for double the mAh and amps capability) in another, and in series for 12S in a fixed-wing model.
|Thread: A newbie trying to save some money|
Welcome to the forum and the hobby
Without going into details of any specific model (since I don't have experience of any current models), one thing you might want to look at is models which are "bind'n'fly". That means they have a Spektrum receiver already installed, so you need only buy whichever Spektrum transmitter suits your budget and future aspirations. Some of them come with a Spektrum transmitter included, but I believe it's only a single-model device so it's worth negotiating with the vendor to substitute a DX6 or higher.
I'm a recent convert to FrSky Taranis gear, but its only downside for an absolute beginner is the fact that you have to program it before you can use it -- with Spektrum and other traditional transmitters you can almost use them straight out of the box.
Finally, whatever recommendations you get from this forum, do yourself a favour and find a local club. Hands-on help is even better than internet forums.
|Thread: Silhouette vinyl cutter files sharing|
Keeping the parts together is simple; before removing them from the backing, you overlay them with a sheet or strip of frisket film. Then when everything's in place on the model you peel off the frisket (it's slightly less sticky than the masking film I use) and your masks are left in place.
For 3-colour RAF roundels I place the outer mask in place, and seal its edges with a quick spray or brush of whatever the model's background colour is. I then spray the inner red freehand, bigger than needed. Then I place all three masks, held together by frisket, in place in the outer ring, then remove the blue and white rings, leaving in place only the mask over the red centre. After sealing the edges of the red mask with a quick blast of the same red paint, I then spray white over the remaining area. After that's dry (only a couple of minutes with a hair dryer if using water-based acrylics) I then replace the mask for the white circle, put some tape over the join between it and the red mask to avoid leaks, seal its edge with white paint, and then spray the blue outer ring.
Naturally, that kind of sequence will work with any multi-colour design, though in some colour combinations you might need to modify the sequence -- it works well for me with red, white, and blue because the white covers the red overspray very easily, and blue goes well over white. Yellow is a colour I've had most trouble with when trying to cover other colours, so for a roundel with a yellow outer I would probably spray the whole thing yellow first, and then go to the red, white, blue sequence safe in the knowledge that those colours are able to cover yellow.
|Thread: TN Hurricane|
I plan to use two 4S 3200mAh in parallel, which do fit easily.
I think the only model I've 'built' in 3 weeks is my Multiplex TwinStar
OK, my battery goes through F1 to the back of the motor, so I hope I don't need too much lead. Just starting painting now, so I should be in a position to find out around Xmas!
Thanks for taking the trouble Martin. I visited Shuttleworth a while back and took many photos of their Hurricane but, because the canopy was open, I never noticed that it actually overlapped the fuselage behind the cockpit when shut -- as you have modeled and TN's plan shows.
On closer inspection of a blow-up of one of my Shuttleworth photos I see that in fact the fuselage behind the cockpit is recessed slightly to accommodate the rear of the canopy when closed and, in another photo I found on the internet the recessed portion seems to be painted a much lighter colour than the brown/green camouflage. The cockpit on my model is removable, as a battery access hatch, and the battery will slide forward to right behind the motor.
What sound unit are you using? I've got Benedinis in my Flair Magnatilla and SE5A -- with 4" speakers in the Maggie and transducers in the SE5A. Lovely sounds!
Thanks Martin, I've checked your photo albums and see nothing for the Hurricane, so a photo of your canopy would be appreciated when you have time. I see in your albums that you have a vaccuum-former -- you didn't make your own canopy did you, instead of using the TN one?
Canopy size question.
Things have been going slowly due to other commitments, but I'm back on the job now. What's been puzzling me for some time is the fact that the moulded canopy is longer than the cockpit, as shown on the plans. But the full-size isn't like that -- it doesn't overhang the back of the cockpit as shown in the TN plans.
So what have you guys done about that? I could cut the canopy to the right length for the cockpit, and use a thin strip of plastic to form the rear frame, but then the two intermediate frames wouldn't be equally spaced as they should be.
|Thread: All weather flyer.|
My goto fixed-wing model for windy/gusty conditions is my TwinStar, because it's the only foamy model in my hanger, and it bounces nicely. I still keep a kite in my car, but these days when it gets really bad the only thing I fly is my 250-size quadcopter.
|Thread: Orange recievers|
Yes, as Gary has said. In my fixed-wing and heli models some are crossways and backwards, some are crossways and downwards, and some are backwards and downwards. In my quadcopters they're sticking up vertically in a 90-degree vee. Seems to make no difference in flight, so long as they're at 90 degrees to each other.
One thing to avoid is having either of them running parallel to any conductor, such as metal pushrods, battery or other leads, or carbon fibre.
|Thread: iNav with FrSky RXSR-FC OMNIBUSF4V6|
Subsequent to getting GPS working, I then found I was still getting a red Mag symbol in iNav Configurator. The solution was to solder two 3.3k ohm resistors, one from the SDA pad to the 3.3v pad on the board, and the other from the SLC pad to the 3.3v pad. With this particular board that's not too tricky, especially if one's using the 6-pin socket beneath the board for GPS and Magnetometer connection, for that leaves the pads free on the top side of the board. A couple of test flights yesterday confirmed that everything is now working.
I find it annoying that I have to make this modification to the board to make it work. Seems it's not just the FrSky version, as I've now read elsewhere of the need for these 'pullup resistors' on other boards.
|Thread: Bixler 2/3|
It's good to keep your LiPos warm in winter before you fly them. After charging in the garage I take mine indoors while I have lunch so that they can warm up a bit, and then carry them to the field in an insulated bag.
Having said that, you've got to be careful if charging in cold weather, for LiPos can gain voltage as they warm up, so if they were fully charged to 4.20v per cell in the cold, they could exceed 4.20v per cell when they warm up, which can be dangerous. For that reason my charger is programmed to only charge to 4.10v per cell when the temperature falls below a certain value.
|Thread: Broken servo arm screw|
I removed an 'impossible' sheared screw once by very carefully drilling into it with a 1mm bit to start with, and then tried to ream it out using a very pointy burr which came in a set of Maplin accessories for my Dremel. For some reason I had the drill in reverse when using the burr, and almost immediately it got a grip on the screw and screwed it out. I'm guessing that the heat from the initial action of the burr loosened the blue loctite enough that it didn't need much friction to grip and turn it.
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