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Member postings for Allan Bennett

Here is a list of all the postings Allan Bennett has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Loss of trim due to moisture and temperature.
20/04/2019 20:30:49

How's the ventilation in your garage, David? Several of my models live in an unheated shed which, because it has plenty of ventilation (one window slightly open, plus many gaps in the wooden siding) is perfectly dry. Ok, we don't get as much rain down here (Hertfordshire) as you do in the Lake District, but I reckon ventilation is just as important as heating, if not more so. Oh, and the fact that it's got air circulation beneath the floor must help.

Thread: Head Loader
17/04/2019 21:40:15

Midland doesn't seem to have them, unless they're known by a different name. But West Wales Models does.

Thread: 1912 blackburn mono
15/04/2019 13:32:53

Many years ago I built a Blackburn 1912 from the plans in RCM&E. After converting it to electric power seven or eight years ago I covered it in Solite, well ironed onto the undersides of the ribs, and have not had any instance of it wanting to come free. I think I applied Balsaloc to the ribs beforehand. I can't remember what I used when it was glow-powered -- probably Solartex -- but I had no problems with it either. The electric version is still flying.

As Don has said, if there's a spar flush with the ribs, at the deepest part of the undercamber, fixing the covering to that also helps. Also, applying just enough heat to tighten it helps prevent it trying to become like a bowstring. I use only an iron for this, as a heat gun is more difficult to control area-wise and temperature-wise.

Thread: A sticky glassing problem!
13/04/2019 11:26:52


The acetone wasn't such a quick fix as might have been inferred from my previous post; It's taken several cycles of wiping with acetone and then leaving to dry for a day, and there's still a slightly sticky bit on one wing tip. But I've got to the point where I'm rubbing it all down now.

There's a couple of spots that need remedial work (slitting blisters and sticking them down flat with cyano) before applying Halfords' grey primer, but I don't see that I'll need to do an overall re-coat with resin. After rubbing the primer down, and applying more coats if necessary and rubbing down again, I normally go straight to my base colour using Lifecolor water-based acrylics applied by airbrush. I've never had a problem with masking tape lifting it. After all colours are complete I go over the lot with Humbrol clear varnish -- matt, satin, or gloss as appropriate -- applied from a rattle can or by airbrush.

Thread: Have batteries - what plane
10/04/2019 11:35:04
Posted by Nigel Heather on 10/04/2019 08:42:30:

The problem is that I already have the 6s 1850 batteries so using two 3s is not an option. Besides the build of helicopters is generally not that flexible and very size/weight sensitive so I doubt my helicopter could accomdate two 3s batteries. ....

And if all goes well with the heli learning I hope to get a 550 size which will use 6s 5000 batteries.

Which will mean three types of batteries - it would be nice if some could be used on other airframes.



My Trex 500 heli uses 6S 2600mAh packs. I use two of them in parallel (i.e. 6S 5200mAh) in my Trex 550 to avoid having to buy the specified 6S 5000mAh pack. There's enough latitude in the battery mounting tray to achieve a good balance.

Simon Chaddock, if you're using 6S in a model that was designed for 3S you need to halve the motor's kV, not double it, if you want to achieve the same rpm smiley

09/04/2019 21:44:57

Another thought ....

In theory whether or not a particular model can use your 6S pack depends on its motor characteristics -- in particular it needs to have a kV value about half of what would normally be supplied for a model designed for 3S batteries, in order to get the same rpm and, hence, the similar prop size and power.

Have you any particular model type in mind? Many rtf foamies come with motor and ESC installed, and are designed for 3S LiPos, so Percy's suggestion of using two 3S packs in your heli is a more practical one than changing the motor to suit a 6S battery. I use packs in series or parallel for various models, to try an reduce the number of different ones I need for my fleet.

Thread: A sticky glassing problem!
04/04/2019 20:20:12

Thanks Mark, but doesn't the talc trick just disguise the problem? It might make it feel dry, but it can't promote the proper setting of the resin, can it? I don't like the idea of putting a new layer of resin and/or paint on top of the stuff that hasn't gone off properly, so acetone, to remove the stuff that hasn't gone off, is the answer for me.

03/04/2019 20:34:21

Fuselage glassing went well, with the new resin setting touch-dry in a few hours, so today I wiped off my sticky wing with acetone, and it's done the job. It seems to have only taken the sticky surface off, so the need for re-coating with new resin is going to be minimal.

Thread: What's your do everything model, or do you have one of everything?
03/04/2019 20:21:27

My 'favourite' model depends a lot on the weather: On windy days I don't want to risk one of my built-up balsa models so I fly my Multiplex Twinstar, or my TRex 500 heli, or a 250-size quad, depending on how much wind.

On good flying days my go-to model is my Flair Magnatilla, though a scale(ish) Blackburn 1912 and a 1/5 size Piper Cub also come out often. Several other models come out maybe once a year.

All my models are electric.

Thread: Amber with a frog in her throat
02/04/2019 13:32:51

I, and I suspect many on this forum, are on OpenTX 2.2.3, and my Amber sounds sound normal to my ears. So 2.2.3 per se is not the problem though, of course, there's no discounting some quirk in your particular installation.

Since I updated from 2.1.9 and installed the new 2.2.x sound pack my 'Welcome to OpenTX' sounds a bit too fast, and other standard messages such as timer countdown are in a different voice from before, but all my Ambers seem to be unchanged,

Thread: A sticky glassing problem!
01/04/2019 19:50:38

The wing has been in the sun all afternoon. I think it's a bit less sticky, but I've just ordered some acetone so I can do a proper job of removing the sticky stuff before recoating.

At the rate I use it my new supply of West System epoxy is going to last a while, but I'll bear in mind ABL Resin since 2:1 is easier to be accurate than 5:1.

Thread: How to use IRX4+ multi-protocol module with Taranis?
01/04/2019 13:39:19

I thought about channel order some time during the week but, like yours Chris, I was expecting it to bind but to then respond to the wrong sticks. I even tried holding the other sticks hard over, to simulate a zero throttle in case the channel order was wrong, but no bind at all until I corrected the channel order.

Thread: A sticky glassing problem!
31/03/2019 20:24:27

My epoxy is West System 105, with slow hardener. As I said, I use graduated measuring cups to mix it, but maybe some 'drug dealer' scales would be more accurate, given the inaccuracy that can be caused by viewing the meniscus from the wrong angle.

Interesting to hear your experience with old epoxy John: Since mine set hard a couple of weeks ago for my cowl, and has set hard over most of my wing, I think I can rule out age -- and mixing ratio for that matter. Something else must be going on.

The weather forecast is for sun for a few days, so I'm going to leave the wing outside and, if it's not cured by next weekend, I'll get some isopropyl alcohol or meths (whichever is easier to get hold of locally) to wipe the sticky bits off. I've got plenty of other jobs to do in the meantime!

31/03/2019 11:33:28

My mix ratio is 1:5, and I use graduated beakers to make sure I get it right. I must have got measurement and mixing right for, as I said, it's cured okay over most of the wing surfaces -- it's just overlaps that are still sticky -- and it was all from a single made-up batch of about 25cc. As I said though, I noticed later that my resin was a couple of months beyond its use-by date.

I'll try sunshine, when it comes back, and maybe my heat gun. So if that fails, you reckon meths will remove the sticky bits so I can re-coat them?

Incidentally, I like epoxy resin because, as has been mentioned, it's relatively odour-free and performs well, sticking to almost any surface. I'll have a look at poly C when I finish the new can of resin I've got, but can it be used for making up cowls etc., or do you just use it for laminating?

30/03/2019 20:58:04

I finished glassing a built-up balsa wing a week or so ago, and the epoxy resisn is still sticky in places. It's dry and hard, as it should be, everywhere except where two layers of the 25g cloth have been overlapped, such as on the leading edge, wing tips, and a join on the centreline. Underside of the wing was done first with one batch of resin, and a couple of days later the top side was done with another single batch. A few weeks prior I made a mould and then a cowl using the same resin in the same proportions, though with 50g + 200g cloth, and it hardened right through. All items were kept indoors to keep the temperature above 20 degrees.

After noticing the problem I then noticed that my resin is 3 months beyond its use-by date, so I've bought a new lot for future glassing. But what can I do about this wing -- leave it for another couple of weeks and hope it will harden, or use a solvent to wipe off the stuff that's still sticky, and then re-coat with the new resin? Or is there any magic 'kicker' like we use for cyano, that will initiate the final hardening?

Thread: How to use IRX4+ multi-protocol module with Taranis?
30/03/2019 20:19:37

Thanks Mike. I was beginning to wonder what the significance of the default channel order is, for I always specify my input channels in AETR order because that's what I'm used to from my Futaba days -- except this time I did it in TAER order because I think I read somewhere that that's what the IRX4 expects.

30/03/2019 16:29:46

Thanks everyone for your support and encouragement -- it's now working!

It was a simple matter of changing the channel order to AETR, instead of TAER which it was initially.

For the record, in case anyone comes to this thread looking for the answer, the protocol settings in my Taranis are Bayang and Std, the channel order is AETR, and all inputs and mixes are left at 100% with none of them reversed. I've checked the 'Bind on powerup' box in my Taranis since my club mate told me he's having to bind his every time he changes the battery. With that box checked I power up the drone first, then it binds within 2 or 3 seconds of me powering up the Tx with the correct model selected. The selector switch on m IRX4+ module is at position 0, and I get a solid red light on it within a second or so of powering up the Tx. Since it's not clear (to me anyway) which end of the slot in the selector switch is the 'pointer', I've now put a blob of black paint at the correct end.

Flying the quad is much nicer with the Taranis than with the supplied little controller. I'll have to investigate to find which channels activate the various stunt modes it has, but for the moment I'm happy to fly it with the basic 4 channels.

29/03/2019 19:56:51

Thanks Chris for confirming that you use it in serial mode, and that a solid red LED is correct.

My Taranis shows 'H8S3D' as a sub-protocol for Bayang, but I tried that with no joy. As I mentioned earlier, my club mate uses Bayang sub-protocol, which I believe to be what's labelled 'Std' on my Taranis, for his JJRC H67.

I've posted in the forum linked by Mike Blandford yesterday, and people there think that the fact that my quad's LEDs go from slow flashing to quick flashing when I switch on my Tx indicates that I've got the right protocols, and that probably something like channel order and/or throttle setting are preventing the final stage of binding. So I'll investigate over the weekend and report back.

29/03/2019 12:44:59

Thanks Chris, I'd already printed out that list of protocols, and neither JJRC67 or Eachine E011C (which some web sites claim the quad is also sold as) are shown. I've already tried all the four available sub-protocols with Bayang main protocol, and 'Std' is the only one that gives a glimmer of hope, in that the LED flashing sequence on the quad changes to quick flashing when I switch on my Tx.

But can you confirm you're using your module in Serial mode, which is valid for use with OpenTX -- it's been suggested to me that I should maybe be using it in PPM mode?

28/03/2019 20:13:17

I'd seen that thread, but steered away from it due to its in-depth technical nature and its 13,000+ posts. Anyway, nothing ventured nothing gained, so I've posted there now. Thanks Mike.

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