Here is a list of all the postings Allan Bennett has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Can't get S8R to stabilise or auto-level|
I've just watched Painless360's video introduction to lua scripts, and am beginning to be converted! Only problem is I have to upgrade my OpenTX to v2.2 first which, I've heard, throws up other things that also need updating, so that's too much for me to handle at the moment -- I'll just concentrate on getting the S8R working with the PC configurators
I have no problem with stabilisation and self-levelling in the two S8Rs that I've already got working. Stabilisation is, perhaps, a little mild, though its response can be tuned with the left slider, but self-levelling is instant and obvious, and my TwinStar only loses height simply because it must have been in a slightly nose-down attitude when I did the self-check. It's not enough to make me bother to re-do the self-check for the moment.
I still don't understand what the LUA script does. I understand it's basically a mini program that I can install on my transmitter, but then what? Does it add a menu, or a tab with a suite of menus and extra functions? I'm not a big fan of programming via transmitter -- so far as I'm concerned nothing is easier than the PC-based OpenTX configurator and FrSky's STK configurator. Maybe I can be converted.
Thanks for that link. I had already gone to the FrSky web site https://www.frsky-rc.com/stk/ and the available downloads there are completely different from the page you've linked -- 'Tool-FrSky update support', for instance, is shown as "version 170309" -- and the manual on your link is similar to, but much more comprehensive, than the one that came with my S8R receiver. The manual that came with the receiver doesn't mention 'Quick Mode', so I suspect that my PC software and S8R firmware are compatible, though older, versions predating the 'Quick Mode'.
I see from the manual now what 'Quick Mode' is about, and how it differs slightly from the programming I've done previously though, so far as I can see, even if it does have more up-to-date firmware, my S8R should still go into self-levelling and stabilised modes because channel 10 inputs dictate the mode, and whatever I've programmed for channel 11 is ignored.
Anyway, as soon as I get the opportunity I'm going to try stirring the sticks with the configuration I've already done, before I start updating the software and firmware.
Hmmm, it's things like this that make me wonder if I was right to change over to Taranis/OpenTX. My S8RConfig software says it's v1.0, and I have no idea what an LUA script is, or what version it is. The PC option seems simple enough to me, so I'll continue with that method, but I'll look for an updated program. Will I then need to flash anything to update the STK device?
I take your point about the USB port and servos attached to the receiver; unplugging them is not a problem, it's just that the receiver is fixed in on double-sided sticky foam so is almost impossible to get out of the model, hence the extension lead for programming.
But my previous model programmed okay with the software I've got, so I'm going to try the stick-stirring after the self-check first, before I try to change anything.
Edited By Allan Bennett on 22/06/2018 12:01:41
I'm using the USB STK device, and I've left a servo extension lead plugged into the smartport on the receiver to make it easily accessible while installed in the model. I don't recall seeing a 'Quick mode' in any menu, but I'll look out for it and turn it off if necessary.
Ah, I forgot about the stick stirring after the 'chicken dance'. Maybe it's as simple as that. Unfortunately I'm a bit tied up for the next couple of days, so may not get a chance to try it. I'll report back as soon as I can.
Devcon, I've only ever done the 3-switch thing at initial setup. Actually, with my TwinStar I probably need to do it again, for it loses height when I select self-levelling -- not enough to worry about though.
Thank you all.
A while back a club-mate helped my set up my first S8R receiver, in my Multiplex Twinstar, and it's worked flawlessly. A couple of months ago I bought the USB programmer when I bought another S8R, and programmed it myself without any hassle, in a single-engine biplane.
Now I'm installing a third S8R in another twin-engine model, and can't get stabilisation or auto-levelling to work. I had no issues (I think) when programming the S8R, and it seemed to self-calibrate okay when I installed it in the model (after a few seconds delay after flicking the switch 3 times within 3 seconds, all surfaces moved back and forth), but when I switch to self-levelling mode none of the surfaces move at all when I move the model around, though everything responds correctly to transmitter stick inputs.
In my Taranis I copied and renamed the file that I'm using successfully in my Twinstar, and the only changes I made were to replace landing lights and cabin lights (!) on channel 5 and 7 with flaps and retracts for the new model. Channel 6, as in my Twinstar, is used for the second throttle so that I can have throttle differential for ground handling. I've checked in the OpenTX configurator that the receiver is configured for 12 channels, and channels 10 and 11 change correctly from 0 to 100% when I throw the switch for stabilisation or self levelling.
I guess I'm missing something very basic: Any ideas what it might be please?
|Thread: Rudder trim backwards on SG14 (only on one model)|
Since switches E and G are mounted on the seam between the back and front of the case, when you took it apart to install your new gimbals they probably fell out, and you put them back wrong way round. So just turn them round 180 degrees.
|Thread: Is this correct|
Like some of the others, my normal charge rate for NiMh Rx batteries -- irrespective of their MAh capacity -- is 0.1C.
But NiMh packs that are designed for motors, usually Sub-C size and upwards, can generally be charged at 1C with a peak-detect charge mode. But even they benefit from a long slow charge from time to time to get their cells in balance.
|Thread: Unexplained crash|
Many years ago I had three unexplained crashes within a period of a few months. The second model used the same receiver as the first crashed model, so I blamed the receiver (having run out of any other ideas). But the third crash was using a different receiver, so I binned the transmitter, and have never had an unexplained crash since.
The original transmitter was a 35MHz Futaba, I think a 6-channel one, so I upgraded to a Futaba 10CP with a synthesised 35MHz module.
|Thread: vinyl cutters|
+1 for the Silhouette Cameo. In addition to True Type fonts you can import pictures of any kind and tell the Cameo software to trace the outline. So you can make paint masks for airline logos etc.
There's one thing which the Cameo is supposed to be able to do, but which I haven't been able to achieve satisfactorily: You can import a drawing, and instruct it to print the picture with reference marks, on your printer, and then cut around its outline when the picture is fed into the Cameo. I tried it with a simple circular logo, which printed okay, but then it cut out an oval
|Thread: New Drone Laws from 30/5/2018|
One thing that struck me about the incident report linked a few posts ago is that the official conclusion seems to be that both parties were operating within the rules, and yet a (perceived) near-miss happened. Rules and tick-boxes are not going to really make things any safer; they're just going to give the authorities more chance of attributing blame when something goes catastrophically wrong.
|Thread: Horus 10x or Taranis 9|
I've had the Taranis X9D for about a year now, and I'm not convinced that it's worth paying over twice the price for a Horus. I like the graduation marks on the stick gimbals -- especially on the throttle -- which the Taranis has and the Horus doesn't.
|Thread: taranis range|
I hadn't really thought about aerial positioning other than they should be at 90 degrees to each other. But one thing to watch out for is that neither of the aerials should be parallel to any conductor, so crossways and vertical will probably usually be the best because of servo wires and metal pushrods that normally run lengthways in the fuselage.
|Thread: Charging Lipo|
"Safe" is a relative term. The more charge is in the battery the more energy is available to cause a fire if it gets damaged in any way. It's reckoned that at around 30% charge there's not enough energy to initiate any fire, which is why LiPos are shipped that way these days.
But just as important is that storing them for any length of time at full charge will reduce their overall lifespan. It's difficult to pin anyone down as to what period is reasonable, but I only charge my batteries on the morning I'm going to fly and, if I'm then unable to use them for some reason, I discharge them down to 50% when I get home. If I do fly, I leave them at whatever they finished up at -- generally around 22% -- until I next need them.
My first thought is that Futaba and Spektrum are probably easily available where you are. If Graupner is 'fairly rare' where you are could it be that nobody local is selling them?
Secondly, I'm not a Spektrum user myself, but they do have the advantage that you can use them with the many Bind'n'fly models that are available (i.e. they already have a Spektrum-compatible receiver built in, sometimes with stabilisation too). With other radio brands you'll almost always have to buy a separate receiver for whatever model you buy.
|Thread: Well done HobbyKing|
Last week I ordered two Turnigy 4S 5000mAh LiPos from HK. They arrived within 48 hours from the UK warehouse, but on checking I found that one of them had one cell at 0.72v.
Took a photo of the pack and the meter reading, filled in HK's claim form on line, and within a couple of hours a replacement was approved without any requirement for me to return the pack for checking. The replacement arrived today. No hassle, other than the pack shouldn't have been bad in the first place.
|Thread: 4.8v or 6.0v receiver pack|
The choice of 4.8v or 6.0v receiver pack depends mainly on the receiver's minimum operating voltage, the capacity and condition of the battery, and how many and what type of servos you're using.
More, bigger, and digital servos will potentially draw more amps from the battery, which will cause its voltage to temporarily sag. The smaller the battery capacity, the greater the sag will be, and with a 4.8v pack it could temporarily drop below the receiver's operating voltage, causing it to re-boot. Some Spektrum models seem to be more susceptible to this than other makes, hence the advice often given to use a 6.0v receiver pack with Spektrum. Futabas seem to be able to tolerate lower voltage, so 4.8v will be fine for them.
Another factor though may be that you want to get the most torque out of your servos, which are usually rated for at least 4.8v to 6.0v -- and often higher these days -- and will give more torque with higher voltage.
|Thread: Lipo Battery Query|
You can get more amps out when you add more mAh but, as MattyB has explained, the C rating of the combined pack remains the same as for a single pack.
|Thread: Fast response from SLEC|
A long while back I bought half a dozen SLEC mini aileron servo mounts (they come in pairs, so three packs), but have only just go round to installing them in my new model. It was then I realised that they only came with four screws for each mount, whereas they need four for the cover and two for the servo retaining bar, making me short of a dozen tiny screws.
An email to SLEC had the twelve missing screws arriving through my letterbox next day. Great service!
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