Here is a list of all the postings Allan Bennett has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: programmable tx virgin !|
Good points made about the glasses: First, I rarely have to look at the Tx screen during flight, for my Taranis is programmed to verbally announce remaining flight time, switch functions, etc. Second, I wear distance prescription lenses for flying and find that I can read the screen on my Taranis even though it's nigh on impossible with the satnav in my car. Must be something to do with the quality or type of screen.
If you can get your head around programming OpenTX -- which is not difficult at all using the PC configurator software -- then one of the FrSky radios will do what you want. You can certainly have three separate channels controlled by one stick if you don't want to use a Y-lead for your motors, and you can also have a single switch act as motor-cut on all throttle channels. That latter feature was why I switched from Futaba to FrSky a while back.
FrSky receivers are reasonably priced, and most of them have telemetry. In addition to their specified number of PWM channels, many of them can output 16 channels in PPM mode.
|Thread: Electric powering a Biplane or twin|
I've got a few electric bipes and a twin, and I don't remember using anything other than the usual guide watts-per-pound. Unfortunately I don't have my data with me, so can't give exact numbers. A bipe generally being slower flyer than a monoplane, I suspect that the same power but lower 'gearing' (i.e. larger diameter but smaller pitch prop) is the answer.
|Thread: How to get RSSI indication from XSRF3E?|
Well, I did get the urge to update the receiver's firmware, and the process seems to have bricked it!
I connected the module to my laptop's USB port following internet instructions, with no battery connected to the module, yet as soon as I initiated the update all the LED strings on my quad illuminated at what seemed to be full brightness, and I got a message saying the update had failed. Now the module will no longer bind to my Taranis, nor am I able to re-do the firmware update. The receiver's red light is solid, and its green light is flickering faintly when I power up; the flight controller's lights seem to be behaving normally.
What really puzzled me was the LEDs coming on with only power from the USB. They're 12v strings, powered from the 12v output on a Matek PDB. The XSRF3E is normally powered from the 5v output on the same board, and was connected (though the board was not powered) when I attempted the update. All I can surmise is that 5v from the USB has somehow fed back through the PDB's 5v outlet and thence been converted to 12v for the LED strings, and the resulting current has been too much for something in the XSR receiver.
I've been in touch with T9 and they've said they'll get FrSky to have a look at it for me.
At our club we have one flying site which used to be designated as 'silent' due to the proximity of housing. It was therefore used for bungee-launched gliders only. Maybe 20 years ago members gradually started flying electric gliders there, subject to Committee's subjective approval on a model by model basis. This worked okay, but more recently members thought it would be okay to fly other electric-powered models there, so the Committee was tasked with determining what dBA figure represents 'silent' in the context of this particular site. After a few test flights and noise-meter tests it was determined that 72dBA (under the same conditions as the standard 82dBA test) would be acceptable. This level can be met by models such as Twinstar, Bixler, foamy AcroWot, etc., and has caused no problems with our neighbours.
|Thread: ESC only works when increasing the throttle very slowly|
With the motor stuttering, I would say the first place to look is the connections between ESC and motor. Stuttering usually indicates a bad connection somewhere in one or more of the three wires -- usually the bullet connectors, but it could be anywhere including inside the motor or ESC. Obviously, check the bullets and their soldering first!
|Thread: Soldering station.|
My 75W Antex with a variety of bits covers all my needs except for undercarriages, for which I use a larger Antex with an even larger bit.
Solder stations seem to be advertised with the same wattage as regular irons so, assuming they're using the same size bits (i.e. thermal capacity), how can they perform better?
Having used a solder gun in the past, I feel that they're not much use for heavy work, whatever their wattage, due to the small mass of their tip.
Not trying to start a Ford/Chevy discussion here, just curious about the advantages of solder stations!
Just curious; can anyone tell me the advantage of a soldering station over a thermostatically controlled simple iron? For me the PSU/control box of a station would be just another bit of unwanted clutter on my workbench!
|Thread: Soldering Stations|
If you feel you need a station, rather than a simple iron, the Amazon one would be my choice of the ones you've mentioned. I've not heard of either of the brands, but you should be able to get better support from Amazon in case of a problem.
But you'd better wait until someone who's actually owned one of these can give you their input.
|Thread: Paint bleed issues|
Once the paint has dried an abrasive or sharp knife is about the only way to remove it safely.
To avoid it happening again the best way is, after rubbing down the edges of the masking tape well, to first paint around the edges with the same colour as the base material or previous coat (or clear lacquer if it's compatible with your colour paints) to seal them. Any that bleeds through won't be visible and, once it's dry, will prevent your next colour coat from bleeding through.
That works for me with regular masking tape, though if I need any kind of a curve I use Artool Ultra Mask.
|Thread: Soldering Stations|
You're right, we do widen the scope of our discussion a bit, but it's all related to what kind of iron would be good for you, so is not really off-topic. If you would tell us what kind of work you intend to do with a soldering station, maybe we could get to the point more directly
Given that they're all called 'silver solder', it's no wonder there's confusion! So I'm wasting my time using my low-temperature silver solder for u/c work, rather than regular solder?
Certainly a blow torch can remove the temper, but my iron works well with the silver-solder (it says on the reel) I use.
I can see where you're coming from with your statement about temperatures, for the internet tells me that 'normal' soldering is done at around 200C whereas silver-soldering is at around 450C. But checking RS's web site I see that their silver-solder melts at 296C, which is the kind of stuff I use. Presumably there's different grades, and hardnesses, of silver-solder.
|Thread: Where to fly?|
Sorry I can't help you with an alternate site, but don't let bulls and calves put you off. We sometimes have them in one of our flying fields, and the biggest problem is their inquisitiveness -- we have to make sure someone remains in the pits area to stop them checking out the models and equipment. Usually it's a calf that comes first, followed at a slow amble by the rest of the herd.
|Thread: Soldering Stations|
I don't know exactly what a soldering 'station' comprises, but for my electronic hobby needs I'm very satisfied with my temperature-contolled 50W Antex iron with a selection of easily interchangeable bits ranging from 0.1mm to 6mm. It comes with a stand incorporating a cleaning sponge -- does that make it a 'station'?
That iron does everything from soldering battery leads to Deans Ultra, and other, plugs, down to minute surface-mounted-devices on a PCB. For heavier work, such as silver-soldering undercarriages, I use a 80W uncontrolled Antex iron with a 10mm (I think) chisel bit.
|Thread: Local club attendance|
Our membership is about the same as yours. We've got three or four regulars who turn up whenever weather permits, and on a good day we probably get about ten flyers. In summer it's sometimes worse because of holidays and, as many of us get older, we often don't fly in weather that wouldn't have troubled us 10 or 20 years ago!
|Thread: XSR Firmware update error|
According to everything I've seen on the internet, you don't need to press any button when updating the receiver firmware. Usually that only needs doing for the flight controller, and then not in every case. On this integrated device the receiver and flight controller firmware updates are completely separate procedures.
So no, I didn't press any button I went through the update process with another stand-alone receiver, a different model, beforehand to check that I'd got the process right.
|Thread: Spinners for brushless.|
Is your motor shaft threaded, or plain? If the latter, you'll surely be using some kind of prop adapter which will have a larger-diameter thread for mounting the prop.
|Thread: Real metal on aircraft. Is it a problem for radio?...|
Yes, it can be a problem. To minimise it you need to ensure that your antennae (your receiver, I presume, is 2.4GHz with two antennae) are installed in a part of the model which is not surrounded by metal (or by carbon fibre for that matter). Any conductive material between the receiver and transmitter antennae has the potential to block the signal to some extent. Also make sure that your receiver antennae are at right angles to each other.
|Thread: Building the Nijhuis Lysander|
Yes, I don't have a tray per se, simply a fixed box going down at about 45 degree angle. It's sized to take a 5S A123 pack but I know that a 4S 3200mAh LiPo pack will fit in the same space and be the same weight. The Velcro tab is to hold the battery snugly once inserted. Sorry, I'm not at home at the moment, so can't photograph the hatch for you.
As I mentioned in one of my posts, I had to install ballast in the cowl, so I doubt if extra weight forward of the c of g is going to be too much of a problem.
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