Here is a list of all the postings Allan Bennett has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Silhouette vinyl cutter files sharing|
Keeping the parts together is simple; before removing them from the backing, you overlay them with a sheet or strip of frisket film. Then when everything's in place on the model you peel off the frisket (it's slightly less sticky than the masking film I use) and your masks are left in place.
For 3-colour RAF roundels I place the outer mask in place, and seal its edges with a quick spray or brush of whatever the model's background colour is. I then spray the inner red freehand, bigger than needed. Then I place all three masks, held together by frisket, in place in the outer ring, then remove the blue and white rings, leaving in place only the mask over the red centre. After sealing the edges of the red mask with a quick blast of the same red paint, I then spray white over the remaining area. After that's dry (only a couple of minutes with a hair dryer if using water-based acrylics) I then replace the mask for the white circle, put some tape over the join between it and the red mask to avoid leaks, seal its edge with white paint, and then spray the blue outer ring.
Naturally, that kind of sequence will work with any multi-colour design, though in some colour combinations you might need to modify the sequence -- it works well for me with red, white, and blue because the white covers the red overspray very easily, and blue goes well over white. Yellow is a colour I've had most trouble with when trying to cover other colours, so for a roundel with a yellow outer I would probably spray the whole thing yellow first, and then go to the red, white, blue sequence safe in the knowledge that those colours are able to cover yellow.
|Thread: TN Hurricane|
I plan to use two 4S 3200mAh in parallel, which do fit easily.
I think the only model I've 'built' in 3 weeks is my Multiplex TwinStar
OK, my battery goes through F1 to the back of the motor, so I hope I don't need too much lead. Just starting painting now, so I should be in a position to find out around Xmas!
Thanks for taking the trouble Martin. I visited Shuttleworth a while back and took many photos of their Hurricane but, because the canopy was open, I never noticed that it actually overlapped the fuselage behind the cockpit when shut -- as you have modeled and TN's plan shows.
On closer inspection of a blow-up of one of my Shuttleworth photos I see that in fact the fuselage behind the cockpit is recessed slightly to accommodate the rear of the canopy when closed and, in another photo I found on the internet the recessed portion seems to be painted a much lighter colour than the brown/green camouflage. The cockpit on my model is removable, as a battery access hatch, and the battery will slide forward to right behind the motor.
What sound unit are you using? I've got Benedinis in my Flair Magnatilla and SE5A -- with 4" speakers in the Maggie and transducers in the SE5A. Lovely sounds!
Thanks Martin, I've checked your photo albums and see nothing for the Hurricane, so a photo of your canopy would be appreciated when you have time. I see in your albums that you have a vaccuum-former -- you didn't make your own canopy did you, instead of using the TN one?
Canopy size question.
Things have been going slowly due to other commitments, but I'm back on the job now. What's been puzzling me for some time is the fact that the moulded canopy is longer than the cockpit, as shown on the plans. But the full-size isn't like that -- it doesn't overhang the back of the cockpit as shown in the TN plans.
So what have you guys done about that? I could cut the canopy to the right length for the cockpit, and use a thin strip of plastic to form the rear frame, but then the two intermediate frames wouldn't be equally spaced as they should be.
|Thread: All weather flyer.|
My goto fixed-wing model for windy/gusty conditions is my TwinStar, because it's the only foamy model in my hanger, and it bounces nicely. I still keep a kite in my car, but these days when it gets really bad the only thing I fly is my 250-size quadcopter.
|Thread: Orange recievers|
Yes, as Gary has said. In my fixed-wing and heli models some are crossways and backwards, some are crossways and downwards, and some are backwards and downwards. In my quadcopters they're sticking up vertically in a 90-degree vee. Seems to make no difference in flight, so long as they're at 90 degrees to each other.
One thing to avoid is having either of them running parallel to any conductor, such as metal pushrods, battery or other leads, or carbon fibre.
|Thread: iNav with FrSky RXSR-FC OMNIBUSF4V6|
Subsequent to getting GPS working, I then found I was still getting a red Mag symbol in iNav Configurator. The solution was to solder two 3.3k ohm resistors, one from the SDA pad to the 3.3v pad on the board, and the other from the SLC pad to the 3.3v pad. With this particular board that's not too tricky, especially if one's using the 6-pin socket beneath the board for GPS and Magnetometer connection, for that leaves the pads free on the top side of the board. A couple of test flights yesterday confirmed that everything is now working.
I find it annoying that I have to make this modification to the board to make it work. Seems it's not just the FrSky version, as I've now read elsewhere of the need for these 'pullup resistors' on other boards.
|Thread: Bixler 2/3|
It's good to keep your LiPos warm in winter before you fly them. After charging in the garage I take mine indoors while I have lunch so that they can warm up a bit, and then carry them to the field in an insulated bag.
Having said that, you've got to be careful if charging in cold weather, for LiPos can gain voltage as they warm up, so if they were fully charged to 4.20v per cell in the cold, they could exceed 4.20v per cell when they warm up, which can be dangerous. For that reason my charger is programmed to only charge to 4.10v per cell when the temperature falls below a certain value.
|Thread: Broken servo arm screw|
I removed an 'impossible' sheared screw once by very carefully drilling into it with a 1mm bit to start with, and then tried to ream it out using a very pointy burr which came in a set of Maplin accessories for my Dremel. For some reason I had the drill in reverse when using the burr, and almost immediately it got a grip on the screw and screwed it out. I'm guessing that the heat from the initial action of the burr loosened the blue loctite enough that it didn't need much friction to grip and turn it.
|Thread: iNav with FrSky RXSR-FC OMNIBUSF4V6|
I recently bought two FrSky RXSR-FC OMNIBUSF4V6 combined receiver and flight controllers. They come with Betaflight installed, but I wanted to use one with iNav instead, because of its superior GPS capabilities.
Flashing iNav 2.2.1 was not a problem (using Configurator 2.2.1), nor was the initial setup and calibration. But when I moved down to the Receiver tab I got no response from transmitter inputs. The receiver was bound to my Taranis, and I had specified UART1 as its port, Receiver type as Serial-based receiver, and Serial-based receiver type as FPort.
After posting in a FrSky support page in another forum I got the following reply:-
Did you set the flight controller in iNAV CLI before? If not, please take a try to paste the code in iNAV CLI, and let's see if it's working for you.
That has done the job for me, so I thought I'd post it here in case others have the same problem. The setup is not included in the documentation that comes with the unit, nor can I find it online and, to make matters worse, I see recommendations in other web pages that say that the correct iNav firmware for this unit is FIREWORKSV2 instead of OMNIBUSF4V6. That may have been true some time ago, but FrSky have confirmed that OMNIBUSF4V6 is the correct one now.
The first two CLI commands can be achieved using the Ports and Receiver setup tabs in iNav Configurator, but the final two lines must be input in the CLI.
|Thread: programmable tx virgin !|
Good points made about the glasses: First, I rarely have to look at the Tx screen during flight, for my Taranis is programmed to verbally announce remaining flight time, switch functions, etc. Second, I wear distance prescription lenses for flying and find that I can read the screen on my Taranis even though it's nigh on impossible with the satnav in my car. Must be something to do with the quality or type of screen.
If you can get your head around programming OpenTX -- which is not difficult at all using the PC configurator software -- then one of the FrSky radios will do what you want. You can certainly have three separate channels controlled by one stick if you don't want to use a Y-lead for your motors, and you can also have a single switch act as motor-cut on all throttle channels. That latter feature was why I switched from Futaba to FrSky a while back.
FrSky receivers are reasonably priced, and most of them have telemetry. In addition to their specified number of PWM channels, many of them can output 16 channels in PPM mode.
|Thread: Electric powering a Biplane or twin|
I've got a few electric bipes and a twin, and I don't remember using anything other than the usual guide watts-per-pound. Unfortunately I don't have my data with me, so can't give exact numbers. A bipe generally being slower flyer than a monoplane, I suspect that the same power but lower 'gearing' (i.e. larger diameter but smaller pitch prop) is the answer.
|Thread: How to get RSSI indication from XSRF3E?|
Well, I did get the urge to update the receiver's firmware, and the process seems to have bricked it!
I connected the module to my laptop's USB port following internet instructions, with no battery connected to the module, yet as soon as I initiated the update all the LED strings on my quad illuminated at what seemed to be full brightness, and I got a message saying the update had failed. Now the module will no longer bind to my Taranis, nor am I able to re-do the firmware update. The receiver's red light is solid, and its green light is flickering faintly when I power up; the flight controller's lights seem to be behaving normally.
What really puzzled me was the LEDs coming on with only power from the USB. They're 12v strings, powered from the 12v output on a Matek PDB. The XSRF3E is normally powered from the 5v output on the same board, and was connected (though the board was not powered) when I attempted the update. All I can surmise is that 5v from the USB has somehow fed back through the PDB's 5v outlet and thence been converted to 12v for the LED strings, and the resulting current has been too much for something in the XSR receiver.
I've been in touch with T9 and they've said they'll get FrSky to have a look at it for me.
At our club we have one flying site which used to be designated as 'silent' due to the proximity of housing. It was therefore used for bungee-launched gliders only. Maybe 20 years ago members gradually started flying electric gliders there, subject to Committee's subjective approval on a model by model basis. This worked okay, but more recently members thought it would be okay to fly other electric-powered models there, so the Committee was tasked with determining what dBA figure represents 'silent' in the context of this particular site. After a few test flights and noise-meter tests it was determined that 72dBA (under the same conditions as the standard 82dBA test) would be acceptable. This level can be met by models such as Twinstar, Bixler, foamy AcroWot, etc., and has caused no problems with our neighbours.
|Thread: ESC only works when increasing the throttle very slowly|
With the motor stuttering, I would say the first place to look is the connections between ESC and motor. Stuttering usually indicates a bad connection somewhere in one or more of the three wires -- usually the bullet connectors, but it could be anywhere including inside the motor or ESC. Obviously, check the bullets and their soldering first!
|Thread: Soldering station.|
My 75W Antex with a variety of bits covers all my needs except for undercarriages, for which I use a larger Antex with an even larger bit.
Solder stations seem to be advertised with the same wattage as regular irons so, assuming they're using the same size bits (i.e. thermal capacity), how can they perform better?
Having used a solder gun in the past, I feel that they're not much use for heavy work, whatever their wattage, due to the small mass of their tip.
Not trying to start a Ford/Chevy discussion here, just curious about the advantages of solder stations!
Just curious; can anyone tell me the advantage of a soldering station over a thermostatically controlled simple iron? For me the PSU/control box of a station would be just another bit of unwanted clutter on my workbench!
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