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Member postings for Allan Bennett

Here is a list of all the postings Allan Bennett has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: FrSky Major Update for most TX and RX
27/05/2020 10:59:23
Posted by Tim Ballinger on 27/05/2020 09:00:42:


All I can say is that if I had an Access Radio I would want to proceed through my own logical test sequence before flying.

Does your caution relate only to the RX8R receiver, that seems to be getting much adverse comment, or to all receivers? I've just got a new ACCESS transmitter which I've updated to v2.1 firmware and I'm transferring some of my ACCST receivers (mainly X8R, X4R) to. Apart from doing normal range-check and function checks, should I be concerned?

Thread: SPort connection to RXSR-FC board
23/05/2020 15:56:16 has clarified my question about the "Forwarding, power cycle to exit" message, but I've tried serialpassthrough again today, trying three spare UARTs in turn, and the FrSky update tool is unable to find my device whichever one I use, even though it's automatically selected the correct COM port. My receiver does not power on when I connect to USB (which Github says is correct), so I then connect external power to it when connecting to the update tool.

So any ideas please, about serialpassthrough or the SPort connection on the top side of the board?

Edited By Allan Bennett on 23/05/2020 15:56:42

22/05/2020 14:47:49

This is not working for me sad

I've got the FrSky update tool working, but it's unable to find the device.

I've followed the instructions in Bob's link, but my first problem is I'm confused by the the message in Betaflight's CLI screen which says "Forwarding, power cycle to exit" after it reports that Port 2 is opened. Power cycle what, and how? The only way to power cycle the receiver is to disconnect it from the USB port, since that's where it's getting power from at the moment. I thought that inputting "Exit" at the CLI line would save the changes.

Anyway, after I've done that, then reconnected the receiver to the USB. I start the FrSky update tool as Administrator, select the firmware update file that I've previously saved, and the update tool correctly recognises the COM port but gets stuck on "finding device".

At the moment soldering three wires to the board to give it an SPort socket seems to be the simplest way to do the update, so is anyone able to confirm, or otherwise, that the method I describe in my opening post is correct please?

21/05/2020 17:04:36

Thanks for that quick reply Bob. Google is indeed helpful, if you know the right search terms! Anyway I've read your link, configured my quad's UART2 to SPort, and installed FrSky's Update Sport program onto my laptop, but it won't run due to .dll files not found, and other errors. I'll have another go tomorrow. Thanks.

21/05/2020 16:17:55

Having successfully (I think) upgraded my Taranis 9D+ 2019 transmitter to v2.1.0 firmware, I now need to do my receivers, and want to start with an FXSR-FC board in my 250 quad.

The RXSR receiver is factory-mounted onto the back of an Omnibus F4 flight controller board, and its SBus outputs are inaccessible to me. But the FC board itself has an SBus pad, so I presume that all I need to do is connect a standard servo socket signal wire to the SBus pad, and the + and - wires to the 5V DC and GND pads on the board, to give myself an easily accessible SPort connection.

I'd rather not just suck-it-and-see, in case I damage something, so can anyone confirm that my thinking is right please? I'll be using my laptop and a FrSky STK SPort tool, rather than the transmitter, to do the update.

Thread: Horus and Taranis X9D Express differences?
20/05/2020 17:11:21

One more question:

As I said earlier, I'm familiar with LiPo and A123 packs and their storage requirements. What about these "Li-Ion" transmitter packs? Can they be stored safely in the transmitter at full charge, like A123s?

20/05/2020 08:30:05
Posted by Peter Christy on 19/05/2020 22:18:17:

Li-Ion (Lithium Ion), LiPo (Lithium Polymer) and LiFe (Lithium Iron - confusingly!) are all different battery chemistries, and must be charged using the correct settings on an external charger. Getting this wrong can be dangerous, so be careful!

Just use the supplied internal charger, and don't worry!



I'm used to LiPo and LiFePO4 (A123), but this is my first "Li-Ion". Since "Li-Ion" is a generic term (the ion part of it could be any chemical), my LiPos and A123s could both be described as "Li-Ion", so it would be nice if manufacturers could be a bit more specific.

Anyway, as you've suggested, and Ron Gray has almost confirmed, the transmitter's internal charging circuit has a balancing function, so I needn't be concerned about external charging. I'll do cell voltage checks from time to time just to keep my mind at ease.

And I'll also put a piece of foam in. Thanks for the responses guys.

19/05/2020 21:24:55

My Taranis X9D Plus SE 2019 arrived today, and I've got a couple of questions about the battery:

1. It's described as a 2S Li-Ion, and it can be charged in the transmitter from a USB supply. But does it get balanced when it's charged in the transmitter, or do I have to take it out and put it on my regular LiPo balance charger from time to time to keep it balanced? If so, is it charged as a LiPo, i.e. about 1C charge rate and 4.2v per cell cutoff?

2. The battery really rattles around in the housing that's designed for an 8-cell NiMh pack. Will it be harmed (overheating?) if I put some foam padding in to hold it in place?

17/05/2020 20:13:59

Thanks Ron. I too find voice alerts a boon, since there's no way I can take my eye off a heli or multirotor in order to look at the screen. With fixed-wing I sometimes can look at the scrren to check the time, if I forget what the last thing was that the lady told me!

Thread: Electric Vulcan setup help please!
17/05/2020 20:07:19

For combined elevator/aileron operation ("elevon" ) each aileron must be connected to a separate channel from the receiver -- not to a Y-lead to a single channel. You then have to program the transmitter so that the two surfaces move opposite ways (for aileron) when you move the left/right stick, and move the same way (for elevator) when you move the up/down stick. I'm afraid I can't help you with that, for I'm not familiar with Dynam equipment. Check the transmitter instructions and/or menus to find if there's a pre-programmed 'elevon' option.

Edited By Allan Bennett on 17/05/2020 20:07:48

Thread: Horus and Taranis X9D Express differences?
17/05/2020 10:52:15

Thanks Peter. I don't need to display a lot of info -- I don't try any programming at the field, I just wait until I get home and use Companion, and when I'm actually flying I can't really read the screen anyway because I'm wearing my long-distance prescription sunglasses!

So I'm going to go for the new Taranis, unless anybody can convince me that the different internal RF module of the Horus is really a game-changer.

17/05/2020 08:18:18

I don't think a 6-position switch and extra trim switches interest me. I guess two antennae might improve the link with the receiver. Has anybody confirmed that in practice?

16/05/2020 21:48:25

So it boils down to a 'better' case, and a colour screen?

What about the performance? Is the X10 RF module better than the X9? And are the Horus's hall-effect gimbals any better than the Taranis's hall-effect gimbals? If it's just down to case and screen I think I'll be going for another Taranis.

16/05/2020 20:41:29

I'm considering a new FrSky transmitter and am wondering what are the important differences between the current two Horus models (X10S Express and X10 Express) and the Taranis X9D Express.

As far as I can see they all have Hall effect gimbals; they all are, or can be, loaded with ACCESS, they all support spectrum analyser function, wired traning function, and PARA wireless training system, and they're all compatible with ACCST D16 receivers.

The Horus both use ISRM-S-X10 internal RF module, whilst the Taranis uses ISRM-S-X9, and the Horus both have colour screens of higher resolution than the Taranis. Since I'm happy enough with my current Taranis screen, I suppose my real question is, is the X10 internal RF module worth paying the extra money for compared with the Taranis' X9?

Or is there something else I've missed?

Thread: FrSky Major Update for most TX and RX
15/05/2020 12:39:34

Hmm, I think I've missed the bit about problems with 2.1 and SnR receivers. Unfortunately I've got some of these in my favourite models.

14/05/2020 20:57:34

Is the v2.1 firmware really ready?

I've been holding off upgrading to v2.1 firmware, partly because I wasn't allowed to fly and partly because I'm reading about too many problems with it on RCGroups. But now that we're allowed to fly again I need to make a decision -- do I stick with v1.x, which has been reliable for me for a couple of years, apart from what I think was an uncommanded servo movement on 19th January this year, do I go to v2.1 because it's supposed to be more reliable, even though it hasn't been around as long as v1.x for people to discover any possible bugs, or do I wait for 2.1.x or 2.2 to give FrSky time to really shake out all the bugs?

Most of the RCG thread currently is technical RF stuff, which is way over my head, but it makes me nervous that they're finding so many issues. Perhaps they're of no practical consequence, and would have been revealed in v1.x if it had come under the same amount of scrutiny.

Thread: Clips
12/05/2020 20:05:51

I think Modelfixings has what you're looking for.

Thread: How to smooth the glue lines between balsa sheeting?
11/05/2020 11:07:50
Posted by Andy Stephenson on 11/05/2020 09:56:57:

I was thinking of going back to balsa cement as I have trouble with aliphatic showing as a distinct line after sanding. It always seems to set slightly rubbery which doesn't have the same sanding properties as the wood it holds together.


Your experience is the same as mine -- the fact is no glue that I've come across has the same properties as balsa wood.

I haven't made a curved sander yet, but attacking the glue lines with a coarse sander, and then using a curved sander with finer paper, sounds like the optimum approach if one can't avoid having glue lines.

10/05/2020 20:58:38
Posted by Steven Shaw on 09/05/2020 14:17:02:

Eze -Kote is made for glassing

I see that Eze-Kote is in fact a resin, so maybe I could use my regular 2-part glassing resin as a wood hardener before sanding and glassing? I'll try that first on the nose section of my current build before it gets too much hanger-rash, prior to final finishing off with McG 6969's curved sanders, and then glassing.

Mike T, ensuring no glue anywhere near the surface is, for me, easier said than done. If my planks/strips are a nice close fit then whatever glue I use will wick up, or be squeezed up, to the surface. How do you prevent that? The best I can do (and do do) is to wipe off the surplus immediately.

Thread: Tony Nijhuis' new Vulcan
09/05/2020 20:21:46

The 2S setup is very tempting, as it looks like I can get more total mAh, and I've got more latitude for adjusting the c.of g., but I think I'll stick with 4S. In this picture the 2S mock-up is hard against the leading edge, but there's plenty of scope to move it backwards. I'm going to keep my motors paired as inners and outers.


Here's a 4S 2900mAh hard up against the front spars. Obviously it's too thick to go between the spars like the 2S pack does, and it's too thick to move any further backwards because the wing thickness diminishes towards the trailing edge.


Hopefully with a bit more web browsing I'll be able to find a 4S pack which makes a bit more use of the available space.

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