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Member postings for Allan Bennett

Here is a list of all the postings Allan Bennett has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Model Noise Level - Interesting Findings
10/06/2019 20:19:36

I'm really surprised at your recorded sound levels for an electric model with a conventional front-mounted prop: At our club all of our glow models meet the 82dBA limit, and at our electric-only site all models (e.g. brushless Multiplex Twinstar, and Foamy AcroWot) fall within a 72dBA limit that we've imposed.

Leaving aside the meter readings, does your WOT Trainer sound quieter to your ears, or the same, as glow models which have recorded the same dB reading?

Thread: Replacement LiPo for T8FG
07/06/2019 12:21:22

I'm sure the transmitter will operate on much lower voltage than 6.6v: It's alarm is configurable for NiMh, LiPo, and LiFe, and the alarm voltage is determined by what's bad for the pack that's in use.

Thread: The Difference a Prop (Pitch) Makes?
06/06/2019 20:08:39
Posted by paul coleman 1 on 05/06/2019 17:53:35:

Hello gents,speaking of props,is it correct that ic props can be used on electric motors,but electric props cannot be used on ic engines?

As already mentioned, yes. But if swapping over, because you've run out of electric ones, you should remember that the glow one will be heavier and, being right at the front of the model (usually!), it can affect your c of g.

Thread: Now that Solartex has gone...
03/06/2019 10:57:35

"Now that Solartex has gone...": It seems to be back, I've just ordered a couple of rolls of Solartrim from them.

Thread: Ink Jet Printing
02/06/2019 20:59:26

I've used both inkjet waterslide paper and inkjet sticky vinyl for decals. For either of them I give them a spray of varnish once the ink's dry, and before cutting them out (so that sweaty fingers can't smudge them). Never mind how clear the backing is, it will still show on the finished article, so its best to cut round the image as neatly as possible, rather than just a rectangle.

Thread: The Difference a Prop (Pitch) Makes?
02/06/2019 20:51:13

What others have said about the effect of pitch is correct, but aren't we forgetting the fact that there's about 36% less power potentially available with the 12x6 prop, based on the measured amps?

If 45A is within the capabilities of your ESC and motor, you could achieve maximum power by going for a larger diameter prop with 7" pitch -- maybe 13x7, but check it with a wattmeter -- if it'll fit without touching the ground.

Thread: Plans
27/05/2019 20:32:09

I would try ironing them with an old handkerchief or other piece of clean white cloth between them and the iron.

Thread: Futaba servos.
23/05/2019 13:29:21

My models don't need a throttle servo, so if I want to use an old or suspect one I put it on the rudder cheeky

Thread: Battlife Guard
14/05/2019 19:46:54

As you surmise, they don't seem to do anything a decent charger can't do.

Their spec bullet-points says 'virtually zero idle current', then later they say 'The Battlife Guard can be left plugged into the battery even when the discharge process is complete; as soon as the battery has reached its storage voltage, the Battlife Guard switches itself off and consumes no further current.'

So which is it? 'Virtually zero' current, or 'no' current? I suspect the former, for all devices relying on electronic on/off switches must consume some current when 'off'. That being the case, a LiPo could be destroyed by completely discharging if left connected to the device for a long period.

Edited By Allan Bennett on 14/05/2019 19:47:16

Thread: Using separate battery for servos and motor and how to connect them to Rx
13/05/2019 20:58:54

The disadvantage of using a modified extension lead is that it introduces another plug and socket into the line -- just another potential failure point.

In my view it's so easy to pry up the little tang and remove the lead from the plug, that it's not worth the effort and money of buying or making up an extension lead.

Thread: TE from top/bottom sheet
11/05/2019 20:56:16

I use method #1, which has to result in one or both of the surfaces being slightly bent. I then simply sand them down to give the desired shape with a trailing edge about 1-2mm thick.

Thread: Using separate battery for servos and motor and how to connect them to Rx
11/05/2019 20:46:00

1. The LiPo is connected directly to the power leads on the ESC.

2. The 3-wire lead from the ESC to the receiver has it's red wire (the +5v supply) disabled by pulling its pin out of the plug -- use the point of a hobby knife blade to pry up the little plastic tang that holds it in place, then pull the wire out and tie it back on itself with insulating tape so it can't touch anything.

3. The LiFe battery (2-cell probably) can then be connected directly or, better still, via an on/off switch, to any free channel in your receiver. If it's not specifically designed as an Rx pack you may need to crimp on a standard servo plug, taking care to ensure that the +ve wire (red) goes to the middle pin of the plug.

Thread: Warning X8R RX - do not use with CDI on IC powered 'planes
30/04/2019 20:21:48

Although it doesn't affect me because all my models are electric, I'm curious whether the type of antenna makes a difference to their susceptibility to CDI interference: Most of my XxR receivers (and SxR) use simple wire antennae, but the current X8R ad on the T9 site is specific to the PCB antenna.

Thread: Is this too powerful?
28/04/2019 11:44:03

What condition was your battery in Old John? If you left it fully charged since the time of your first post in this thread, it may have deteriorated so much that, even though fully charged, its internal resistance is so high that it can't provide the required 'oomph' (i.e. amps and watts) to power the model.

As per the initial replies to you, with the same voltage and higher mAh capacity than originally recommended you should get the same or slightly more power.

Thread: Futaba 10J
25/04/2019 21:18:58

Hmmm . . . . there's twice as much to go wrong, so the risk of it happening is doubled. But statistically, what's the chance of both batteries going belly-up in the same flight? With proper electronic circuitry (basically a couple of diodes) the chance of the bad one affecting the good one should be eliminated. But then one has to add the chances of the electronic circuitry going bad . . . . . indecision

I believe in KISS, which leads me to generally use a single power source for my receiver and servos -- usually a BEC these days because I fly all-electric. I do however use a separate power source for retracts, in case they jam and stall their motors.

Thread: U/C fixing
25/04/2019 20:50:55

A friend of mine at the flying club used that solution, but the trouble is the nylon bolts keep breaking almost every landing. He wants to use larger diameter nylon bolts, but the captive nuts are inaccessible so he can't change them until the bottom plate comes off again.

Thread: Loss of trim due to moisture and temperature.
20/04/2019 20:30:49

How's the ventilation in your garage, David? Several of my models live in an unheated shed which, because it has plenty of ventilation (one window slightly open, plus many gaps in the wooden siding) is perfectly dry. Ok, we don't get as much rain down here (Hertfordshire) as you do in the Lake District, but I reckon ventilation is just as important as heating, if not more so. Oh, and the fact that it's got air circulation beneath the floor must help.

Thread: Head Loader
17/04/2019 21:40:15

Midland doesn't seem to have them, unless they're known by a different name. But West Wales Models does.

Thread: 1912 blackburn mono
15/04/2019 13:32:53

Many years ago I built a Blackburn 1912 from the plans in RCM&E. After converting it to electric power seven or eight years ago I covered it in Solite, well ironed onto the undersides of the ribs, and have not had any instance of it wanting to come free. I think I applied Balsaloc to the ribs beforehand. I can't remember what I used when it was glow-powered -- probably Solartex -- but I had no problems with it either. The electric version is still flying.

As Don has said, if there's a spar flush with the ribs, at the deepest part of the undercamber, fixing the covering to that also helps. Also, applying just enough heat to tighten it helps prevent it trying to become like a bowstring. I use only an iron for this, as a heat gun is more difficult to control area-wise and temperature-wise.

Thread: A sticky glassing problem!
13/04/2019 11:26:52

Update:

The acetone wasn't such a quick fix as might have been inferred from my previous post; It's taken several cycles of wiping with acetone and then leaving to dry for a day, and there's still a slightly sticky bit on one wing tip. But I've got to the point where I'm rubbing it all down now.

There's a couple of spots that need remedial work (slitting blisters and sticking them down flat with cyano) before applying Halfords' grey primer, but I don't see that I'll need to do an overall re-coat with resin. After rubbing the primer down, and applying more coats if necessary and rubbing down again, I normally go straight to my base colour using Lifecolor water-based acrylics applied by airbrush. I've never had a problem with masking tape lifting it. After all colours are complete I go over the lot with Humbrol clear varnish -- matt, satin, or gloss as appropriate -- applied from a rattle can or by airbrush.

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