Here is a list of all the postings MikeS has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Replacement tank fuel pipes, aluminium or brass?|
My Seagull Grob Tutor also came with plastic fuel lines and i am not impressed with them to honest. I went with the idea but it seems they slow bend back due to the memory in the plastic. I was thinking of upgrading the tank anyhow.
|Thread: Seagull Grob Tutor G115|
On Monday down the club I ran the 91 in as per the instructions. Have spent some time using the ASP 70 I found it a lot easier to run in and setup the 91. What took me a good few months to learn with the 70 took me one morning with the 91.
Tuesday morning thought I would go down the club and fly the Tutor with its new engine, Tuesdays are normally busy down the club so took the P40B to have a battle with an FW190 D that had made a challenge the other day but after a few caps with the P40 no sign of the 190 or anyone else.
I had to reposition the flight battery by moving it back to get the CofG at 80mm. With this reset, the Tutor's minor repairs finished and the wind a lot calmer the Tutor took to the skies.
I had watched David's video of his Tutor landing and felt his was a lot faster than my own. I had been landing the Tutor a little slow before so I did a good few approaches and brought it in a lot quicker flaring before climbing back up and trying again.
The landing was a lot better so four flights later the Tutor is still in one piece.
Edited By MikeS on 18/09/2013 18:26:51
|Thanks percy, it doesn't hurt to shorten it so will sort it out in the morning.|
Ran the ASP 91 in this morning. Adjusted the low end and it ticks over nice but might need a little more but we will see after a few more tanks.
|Tim looking good there. Nice to see the landing light running. When you do your maiden do not slow it down too much on the landing as that was my problem, too used to the pawnee.|
I have since replaced the 70fs with my new 91fs. CofG checked today I am planning on running the engine in.
|Thread: Wg Cmdr Ken Wallis MBE|
Great Man and he will be missed. My thoughts are with his family and friends.
|Thread: Do you ever get nervous when flying?|
This is interesting as I thought I was almost alone in this. I ticked maiden a new model but find I am ok with a few club mates but once it gets busy I am less keen to get airborne.
I am ok with flying with one or two other models but it does depend which members are flying them. If in doubt land.
|Thread: Seagull Grob Tutor G115|
Thanks Terry. To be honest I was a bit gutted but it was an easy repair to fix I do belive the second landing was caught on video when one of the other members was being filmed flying his new 87" BH Hurricane.
One of the comments on the third landing was that I was coming in a bit slow and stalled it in the last second. As it was my fifth flight I put it down down to lack of experience with the Tutor. I had full flaps and had made a perfect landing on the first attempt but was flying a little faster.
I will have to do some practice touch & goes with it.
Edited By MikeS on 31/08/2013 07:25:02
Tim I do like how you have installed the control rod on the rear. Looks neat.
Took the Tutor out yesterday and had a few flights with it. Did a greaser of a landing on the first. The second landing was a little questionable and the third well all I can see is see for yourself.
Its a clean break right at the glue joints. To be honest little glue was used by the factory. Well it has all been put back together and the glue joints have been beefed up a little.
The landing was pretty good, the rear wheel had just touched when it bounced about two feet in the air, the right wing rolled a little then the right wheel caught and it nosed in.
Edited By MikeS on 30/08/2013 20:14:27
Tim. I also found the control rods bind a little on the elevator and rudder. I may revist them and make sime adjustments. I think nylon bolts would work well for U/C leg mounts.
It sounds like your getting well with the Tutor TIm, I expect that your maiden is around the corner.
Put the cowl on today. It took a bit of working out to see where the cowl should go but using the front of the engine washer as a guide I marked the locations of the cylinder head, exhaust, mixture screw and cowl securing screws.
Now I am using a ASP 70 four stoke and it just fits with the back end nearly touching the firewall but I used the plywood firewall as an anchor point for the securing screws as I good not see any blocks etc in side the fuse. I think you are supposed to have four screws but in my kit their was three. I also used the suppled locking washings as well.
I was going to order a right angled exhaust port but in the end I decided to exit the exhaust outside the cowl. I felt that there would too much heat in side the cowl from the exhaust sitting at the back of the engine if it was hidden in there and it might affect the cooling of the engine.
I went with a deflector as the exhaust exit would be in line with the wing.
Location of the mixture screw and top securing screw. The front of the engine drive washer should be 110mm from the firewall with the top screw located in the middle of the firewall it measures 23mm to the back edge of the cowl. The other two screws are in the bottom around the sides.
Edited By MikeS on 26/08/2013 13:33:28
Glad to help.
The Tutor is a nice looking plane. Its looks fall you as you think those thin wings and weight of the model will make the model a handful.
However it flew very well and little fast but that was more my fault as I wanted to trim it out and test the stall before slowing it down.
Thanks Jess did well and is happy with her results.
Well here are some phots from the big day:
Pre flight checks and final adjusting.
I had to fettle with the fuel tack for ten minutes or so but it was all good and the engine ran well
After the maiden and the shakes had worn off lol.
I normally like to try out the stall with and without flaps. However due a strange servo problem I was unable to use the flaps and disconectted the servos. For some reason both servos kept fluttering when sitting idle. We tried them in a differnet channel and they still did the same. I have two more that I brought when I brought these I will try them and may have to return to the shop.
Just in case anyone building this needs some pointers here is how I did the main wheels. This might not be 100% right but it worked for me.
In the manual it asks you build the rear axle as follows:
1. Slide the plywood brace block, washer followed by nut, the wheel and finally the last collet. The idea is the plywood brace block is glued in place in the spat. This adds strength to the fibreglass spat. The small round plywood washer glues in place on the other side of the spat for the axle to rest in and hold the spat from moving
2. Of course all of this has to fit inside the spat but there is not enough room to fit the second collet.
So I did a work-a-round.
3. Hold the spat against the undercarriage leg in the correct position. Mark though the axle hole in the U/C leg so you have a drill mark on the spat.
4. Match the drill bit to the size of the axle and drill though the spat where you marked.
5. You have to cut down the axle and there are two ways to do this. The Quick method or the scale method.
You can drill both sides of the spat and slide the axle all the way through and cut down the axle to size so the axle is level with the spat. Then refer to note 1 remembering to slide the axle through the spat first.
As above but do not drill both sides only the side the axle will pass though the U/C leg. Measure the axle and the gap in the spat remembering to allow the axle to almost touch the other side of the spat. Once cut build as above referring to note 1.
Build the the assembly without the wheel but put on the round plywood washer and mark where the round plywood washer touches the other side of the spat and mark the spat with a pen. Disassemble and glue in place the round plywood washer and if you have not glue the plywood brace block as well.
Once dry rebuild, but remember to use locktite on the thread on the axle. once the unit is assembled it bolts on to the U/C leg held on by a washer and nut again use locktite on the nut and also the grob screw in the collet to keep the wheel in place.
Edited By MikeS on 22/08/2013 15:49:12
Being the first time I had flown it I let run down the pitch a little longer than I felt I needed to. On pulling back the stick I felt it didnt want to unstick. When it did unstick it slowly lifted off. My feeling is that it needed a little more elevator than I had set on the low rates.
I have set the rates on DX8 to three positions 50/75&100% movement. I was using 50% at the time of the maiden so will try 75% next and rework the settings if things improve.
|Thread: Proud Dad Moment Again!!!!@|
|My daughter Jess has received her GCSE results today we are very proud of her.|
She achieved the following:
2 x A*
4 x A
3 x B
She has been busy over the last few years with the Duke of Edinburgh, building the Perkasa and she has just got back from The Challenge and she still found time to study. Very proud.
|Thread: Seagull Grob Tutor G115|
|Well got the CofG in the right position by using the light battery pack. I attached it to the front firewall.|
With everything done apart from the cowl I took it down to the club.
Everything looked good and with the engine running well I did some taxi runs up and down the strip.
I felt it was ready so taxed it round and opened the taps. It went off like a scalded cat. Pulled back on the stick and it slowly climbed off the strip.
Once at height I trimmed it out over a few runs. Another club mate came over and watched. I put it through a few stalls and it either slowly dropped a wing or just slowly dropped its nose but I had to fly slow to get it to stall.
Then I did a few approaches and go a rounds. On the second attempt a call was made that something was hanging off the model so the second approach became a landing.
I landed short and on retrieving the Tutor I found the right wheel axle nut missing and the spat and wheel (now back in to position from the landing) was what was hanging down.
So a good maiden with a few a few minor things to do.
|Tim looking good so far. I think you right about the 91. Now I have nearly got it finished it is still tail heavy. The 70 might be on the light side. |
In hindsight I should have posted how I put the front axel and spat together.
I did scratch my head a little but came up with this.
1 Remove the hex bolt from the oleo so the wheel axle unit is free. The hex bolt washer has a small locking pin which you can use later.
2 slide the axle unit in to the spat and line it up with the hole at the top of the spat and make sure the unit it is square to the spat.
3 Screw the hex bolt, washer and locking pin through the axle unit and spat and in to the sprung oleo part. Then remove the screw, washer, locking pin and axle unit. You will have a small hole indented in to the top of the spat from the locking pin.
4 Drill the small hole through and then rebuild as above making sure the locking pin comes through the spat and in to the hole in big washer on the bottom of sprung oleo.
5 For the next step I used the flash on my phone as a torch and sat the hole assembled unit over the phone. You can use a torch or lamp. With the inside of the spat lit up you can see the holes for the axle inside. I marked the outside of the spat then drilled through both sides. 6 Slide the axle through the hole in the spat and axle unit. Then the first collet followed by the wheel and finally the second collet. I used a pair of thin fishing pliers for this. You will need to cut down the axle so mark it now and then remove. Cut off at the marks and refit as above with locktite. Mike
Edited By MikeS on 19/08/2013 01:04:59
Edited By MikeS on 19/08/2013 16:05:34
Thanks David. I did run the control rod through the guide but found as the metal is very think unlike the throttle control rod I felt it put a lot of strain on the coupled rudder servo. It seems to work fine without the guide.
Well today I added foam to the rx and sat and used hook and loop to secure them. I also attached the canopy to the removable hatch. As per my norm I used small light screws to hold the canopy on as I have never been a fan of glueing them and means I can easily remove it if needed.
I reamed out the hole in the white plastic spinner to fit the 70 and also fitted the small landing light in the cowl. Once this was done I re-checked the CofG and it is about right which means it will be nose heavy as I have not fitted the cowl yet.
The light is powered by two AA batteries which are heavy. The batteries fit in to a small battery case which has two wires with stripped ends. The wire from the light also has stripped ends so the idea here of course is either to solder them together or fit a small switch. The battery pack could be used to help balance the Tutor.
Here is my layout for the electronics in the fuselage. Just need to put in some foam for the rx, sat and also add the hook and loop for the lipo. Once all this is done I can tidy up the wiring.
Remember I said about the nose wheel control rod not lining up with the hole in the fuse. As you can see ,the rod with out bending in shapes will not go through the hole. It works fine as it is but is touching the former so a little fettling is needed here
When you glue in the pilot seats the manual gives a measurement of 25mm from the back of the canopy floor to the back of the seat. Well 25mm is 2.5cm and I think they got this wrong and it should 25mm from the front of the pilots to the front former of the canopy floor. This puts the pilots where they should be. If you follow the manual you will end with seats and pilots at the back of the cockpit and a very tail heavy model.
Spent last night fitting all the servo extensions for the flaps and ailerons in the fuselage. I have finally decided on the location for the rx, ubec and lipo and temporally fitting them. I did a rough first attempt on the CofG 80mm from the leading edge at the root and was happy that while still a little tail heavy it should balance in the CofG range once the cowl and spinner are fitted.
Ok something I feel should be pointed out. I decided to look at the cowl and checked the manual to see how they are suggesting you install it. So step one reads:
1) Slide fibreglass cowl over the engine and line up the back edge of the cowl with the marks you made on the fuselage then trim and cut as shown.
Nothing new here but hang on, what marks and when did I mark the fuselage and at which point in the manual was I instructed to do this. Also the cowl is small and will not fit over any engine installed. A quick re-read and I still can find nothing in the manual. Not a major issue to me or anyone who has built a ARTF before as they should have some experience of fitting a cowl but anyone buying this who has little or no experience will find them selves scratching their heads.
As no holes have been pre-drilled in the fuselage for the cowl it does give me some flexibility to install how I want to which I prefer
Edited By MikeS on 15/08/2013 05:25:15
Want the latest issue of RCM&E? Use our magazine locator link to find your nearest stockist!