Here is a list of all the postings Big T has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Panther Trainer Autogyro|
I have done the same. As long as the blades clear the tail fin when the rotor is tilted back to the max for spin up it will be OK.
Its possible to use a variety of methods to provide a spindle. Any of the old production reduction gears used back in the days before brushless motors for example. I have even used the front crankcase of an Enya 2 stroke motor. Wanted ads on RC Groups are another source.
|Thread: Dag 60 plans|
Hers a video of the DAG 120%. https://youtu.be/1LHyO9JZ1_Q
|Thread: Panther Trainer Autogyro|
Thats a nice Panther. The RPG was first gyro and since then I have built 3 for myself and 3 for friends. Its a great model. My tips for modding the plan are make the top deck removable to aid easy change of battery, I make the nose slightly longer and hollow to allow lead as an easy way to get the weight forward if needed, make the rear boom from square carbon tube, mount the rudder servo under the fuz with either pull pull or a push rod. I also made the stab out of laminated dollar tree or depron. Also one of my flying sites was very bumpy to a ditched the piano wire undercart for one piece of alloy.
|Thread: Revolver Pusher type Autogyro trainer|
Both of mine have had a variety of tail components: depron with balsa stuck on to give a better hinge mount, dollar board, all balsa. No change to cg needed.
Rich, I thought that on pushers the horizontal stab was needed to counteract the prop wash. Also it acts as a mount for the extra vertical stabs that prevent Newton’s 3rd law yaw?
Great pictures Rich, it was a great day to test out the Revolver 2 in different wind conditions as the thermals went through. I need to make a couple of mods to the Suzuki Revolver. Air scoops and vent holes to cool the ESC and a better Lipo security metnod. Apart from that she flew like a dream.
Thanks go to Ian and club mates for the day. Well worth the 1.5 hour drive.
I have tried several methods of blade covering and balancing. For adding weight to the blade before covering I have used I have used urethane varnish, balsaloc, pva, water based primer undercoat, They all work. Traditionally I used a heat shrink covering film ensuring that I use the same amount on each blade. For final balance after covering I normally use electrical insulation tape on the c of g. To move the c of g I insert small nails in the end of the blade and fix in place with glue. We have even used coins as a field fix.
If its any use, I used a HiTech 83mg. I also didnt like the idea of burying the servo (and misread the plan LOL) so I have mine with the control arm sticking out and the pull pull wires held in tension with a clip I designed on Fusion 360 and printed up. If I was building again I might consider putting in 2 tubes as guides as per the RH Gemini or even a lightweight wire pushrod as the Depron is rather fragile and mine has cracked around the horn in transit.
Hi Graham, what amps are you pulling? Or what Esc rate?
What motor Chris?
Rich, having problems with sourcing the 3 blade 8x7.5 prop. Any clues as to a supplier? This might be the reason for my lack of grunt from this motor.
First hops and flights completed yesterday with zero drama on my Cabriolet version. So important to be patient and get those few trimming hops done and not rushed.
Mine came in at 1.08kg so slightly on the beefy side. For those gyro virgins building the Revolver2, I always set up with the hang angle on the max side as this will make the handling more docile. My 3s 2200 was pushed as far forward as possible so I will then start to work it back bit by bit until it becomes too "frisky". Also this is a small model so dont fly too far away, keep it in close or you will lose orientation. Best tip I was given when i started for take offs is to stand half way down the strip and and let the gyro comes to you and then pass you. That way its not so far away when it gets off the ground.
I have drawn up some parts for the Revolver 2 that can be 3d printed. They are a holder for the tail feathers and a wheel spat. This holder will allow the Depron parts to be easily replaced. We have found on other gyros such as the Gemini, that these parts are easily damaged in transit and flight. This holder grips the Depron which can then be further held in place with a couple of cocktail sticks. Credit for the original idea goes to Rich Elliot. The spats are 1.mm thick and come with a mount which is glued on in the side of the spat and a clamp which is screwed to the mount.
I have knocked up a 3d printed stab and fin holder. The reason is that I have a tendency to damage Depron tail pieces on another RH design, the Gemini. A good friend came up with an idea to secure the tail pieces with cocktail sticks pushed through the balsa mount, which does work very well. Now I have a printer I thought it would make swapping parts a bit easier. If it works I will upload the story file to thingiverse for free use. I am also working on some spats
Edited By Big T on 04/05/2019 19:59:36
Edited By Big T on 04/05/2019 19:59:58
Right got it . So I need the canopy to procede or make an open cockpit version temporarily. Ill get on with the other bits, leave that till last then. Got some 60mm AJ blade blanks left over. Wish I had thought to put snakes on the inside now.
Edited By Big T on 03/05/2019 07:30:53
Edited By Big T on 03/05/2019 07:31:35
Edited By Big T on 03/05/2019 07:32:01
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