Here is a list of all the postings buster prop has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Probable scam?|
An excellent Panorama prog. the other evening about a highly organised call centre in India which is the source of the calls we get about our internet connection. You can tell, the phone rings, at first silence then background chatter and after a pause someone comes on the line saying they are the ‘BT (or Microsoft) technical department’. It’s in an office block near Delhi and run by a chap who has a very luxurious lifestyle. I had such a call this morning and let him go on about corrupted files on our router and asking me to log onto their website immediately so I challenged him. He denied it of course and when I said I’d seen their call centre on BBC TV he hung up. Apparently they scam people in the UK, US and Australia, making millions of £’s every month.
|Thread: Anyone used the Spektrum AR410 or 620 receivers ??|
I’ve flown an AR410 in an electric model since last summer with no problems. It never went out of range but as the model is only 1 M span I didn’t fly it at extreme range. The AR410 has telemetry which works with any telemetry capable Spektrum Tx. It displays voltage at the receiver but with an ESC that doesn’t help much. The telemetry from an AR410 has less range than the control link, I occasionally get a ‘telemetry lost’ voice message but no control glitches at all.
|Thread: RES-Eagle Glider RCME March 2018|
George Stringwell’s book about thermal soaring recommends that the towhook should be placed just ahead of the CG. If you drop a vertical line from the point on the wing where the CG is, then another line sloping at 30 degrees in front the towhook position should be where that line crosses the bottom of the fuselage. I wonder about this method because it depends how deep the fuselage is? GS says that it can be fine tuned to get a steep but stable climb. I will make sure my glider is trimmed by hand launches first before risking the bungee, don’t want three months work converted to matchwood in seconds! The hook in the kit is an L shaped wire with a woodscew thread at one end but the plan doesn’t show any fitting details. I’m sure a straightened out cup hook would do the job.
Hi Pete, work on my RES-Eagle is on hold at the moment because we have the builders in and my workshop is being used for storage. What I did though was put the wing centre section flat on a table and plugged the wingtips in to measure the dihedrals. At the tips I have 140mm and at the dihedral break 35mm. The model is basically finished, all covered, servos are in and working. The cg is too far back, so I must get that sorted. Can’t fly at the moment anyway. I haven’t fitted the towhook either, the plan doesn’t show how but I thought of glueing a hardwood block inside to screw the tow hook into. Might reinforce the fuselage floor at that point with 3mm ply..
Ah yes, the spoiler. Getting it to work took some time. I made a pushrod from paper clip wire so that it could be bent to a length and shape that would completely open and shut the spoiler. At first I used a servo tester with the servo wedged between the W01 wing ribs at the centre, as in Ton’s picture and temporarily hinged the spoiler with Sellotape. Trying to get enough ‘up’ movement as well as closing the spoiler completely didn’t work so I used a longer horn on the servo. Better, but the pushrod was binding against the spar and lifting the front edge of the spoiler when closed. There’s very little room in there so I bent the wire to raise it away from the spar. Then it was binding at fully open, against the spoiler frame. Filing a small notch and moving the servo fixed that but it was buzzing at fully closed. After that I used the radio instead of a servo tester so that the servo’s movement can be adjusted for each direction at the Tx and finally got the spoiler opening and closing completely with no binding or servo-buzzing. I’m working it from the throttle stick on the Tx rather than a switch because it might be useful to have proportional control. A small Alturn servo from the spares box fits. Getting the spoiler right has probably been the most difficult part of building the RES-Eagle. It works now, closes completely and just about enough ‘up’. Flight tests will tell. You can see the completed fuselage. Getting there!
Hi Pete. W01 and W02 ribs are recessed by about 2mm to allow the spoiler to drop into the frame. With the 2mm frame thickness they should be flush with the upper surface of the wing when retracted. The spoiler should be sanded slightly to blend in with the aero foil. It isn’t very clear on my earlier post unless you expand the picture. I’ve covered the centre section now and am trying to get the spoiler to extend and retract fully. I’ll take a picture and explain.
|Thread: FrSky Major Update for most TX and RX|
Reading this makes my brain hurt. Think I'll stay with Spektrum (DSMX), it just works and has been reliable. All I want to do is fly my planes, don't need all that hassle.
|Thread: AR 410 Spektrum reciever|
I sorted out a throttle channel problem on my AR410. I want to use the left stick to control a glider wing spoiler rather than from a switch or flight mode. A look at the monitor screen gave me the clue, what I had to do was uninhibit the motor on the ‘Glider type’ menu and allocate it to the throttle stick. A servo plugged into the receiver works now. Ok, not specific to the AR410 just a transmitter setup which someone might find helpful.
Thanks, that might be the problem. When I created a new model on the tx I selected ‘Glider’. I’ll try binding it as an ‘Acro’.
I have one of these receivers which I want to use in a glider. First, the servo plug orientation is moulded into the plastic next to where the servos plug into. You might need a magnifying glass to read them, I did. They are as Denis has said. Next, I was hoping to use the throttle port for spoilers (no motor) but a servo plugged into there doesn’t work from the throttle stick. Does that output only work with an ESC? If so it’s a 3 channel receiver for gliders. As this is a RES glider I’m putting the rudder servo in the aileron output to fly onthe rh stick in mode 2. Btw, don’t worry about range, I have an AR410 in an electric model, range is as far away as I can see the plane.
|Thread: RES Eagle|
That’s great Phil, I hope my RES Eagle flies as well as yours, which looks good too. I’ve built the other wingtip and about to start covering it all. I’m hoping the RES Eagle is as good as the lightweight 2M gliders from Hyperflight. It’s heavier but has about the same wing loading thanks to a broader chord wing. Possibly better in typical UK windy weather. There’s another RES Eagle thread on here and I’ve put up a couple of build pictures.
|Thread: RES-Eagle Glider RCME March 2018|
This wing centre view shows that I fitted small blocks of balsa to support the covering where the wing fixing bolts go through. The spoiler will be hinged by the covering. I've planed and sanded the trailing edge to match the rib profile. The two balsa pieces attached to the W01 ribs weren't in my kit, they came from my balsa offcuts box.The outer wing tip trailing edge looks too short against the plan that comes with the kit although it does match the magazine free plan from March 2018. Luckily I have a copy which I am using to build from. Everything else seems to be ok so I think it must be a drawing error.
Hi Andy I'm building an RES Eagle as well, from the S M C kit. I'm hoping to get on with it now Xmas is over. Yes the wire rods are too short for the tow line version. I soldered lengths of piano wire onto them and covered the join with heat shrink tube. We shouldn't have to do this, I assume that a standard 36" wire was all that S M C stock. The fin fits into two angled balsa blocks on the upper side of the tail plane which is then glued onto the fuselage. It's a straightforward build but there are one or two things to think about. If you have any more questions please ask.
I’ve had mixed (no pun) results with epoxy. I have some Z-Poxy 15 minute which is quite old. Contents of the epoxy bottle had gone almost solid, I warmed it on a radiator which helped but when I mixed it with hardener and applied it to a job it never set properly. Even after 24 hours it was almost but not quite set, rubbery even. I was easily able to pull the joint apart so fixed it again with some ‘151’ 2 part epoxy from a discount shop. That worked but what a pong! I’m back to proper Araldite from Wickes which doesn’t smell and sets properly. The Z-Poxy is probably useless now although it cost me £13..
|Thread: RES Eagle|
First of all, your model looks great! I am going to use transparent purple Profilm and solid white. I don’t have any transparent yellow but plenty of white left over from another build. The fin and tail plane are now covered, I understand now that you intended to angle up the wing tips, and your earlier picture showed them in the pre-bent state. I’ll put up a picture after Xmas if I can remember how to put pics onto this forum. I notice you put holes in the elevator to save tail weight, bit late for me now as it’s been covered. I did use a carbon rod joiner instead of piano wire so I hope that helps. Next job is to make another wing outer and then covering and fitting out including finding a small servo for the spoiler.
Hi again Phil. My RES-Eagle build is coming on nicely, got the fuselage, tail, one wing tip and the centre done but not covered yet. Looking again at your part built model I notice that you didn’t add the wing tip dihedral. I did because Ton altered the design after flight testing and the plan includes the polyhedral wing. The outer spars have to be angled up at R14, Ton said that the outer wings should be built flat and the spar and l.e. cut and angled up afterwards. I didn’t think that would be easy to do accurately so I made the spars first and built the panels on. Now I have to make sure the other tip has exactly the same dihedral! Btw, SMC supplied plenty of 6mm tube and 4mm rod, which fits nicely into the tube for the wing joiners.
|Thread: Phoenix model products Stage 2a slope glider|
Great! I’m a fan of Stan Yeo’s Phoenix kits. I had a Sierra 2 built from the early kit with foam cored wings. It flew very well and I eventually sold it on to make hangar space. Sometimes wish I’d kept it. Your Stage 2A looks similar, all the Phoenix slope soarers have the same look. Good luck with it and I’m sure it will fly well.
|Thread: RES-Eagle Glider RCME March 2018|
Thanks for replying Ton. I’ll make positions for the tow hook to be fitted at either location then. Front 63mm for windy conditions and rear at 73mm if it’s calm. I was surprised that the present plan includes details to fit a motor, if I wanted another 2M E-Glider I’d have bought the Red Eagle kit instead.
I have compared the two plans and the only change seems to be the tow hook position. Originally (March 2018) it was 73mm behind F03, on the kit plan it is 63mm. CG on both plans is the same, at 90mm behind the wing leading edge above F03. What difference would that make?
I went for it - and ordered a kit from SMC which was delivered yesterday. It contains an enormous rolled plan and a lot of wood with C/F spars. Apparently the diameter of spars in the outer panels has been increased because of reported flutter when launching. Can’t do any harm for a tiny weight increase. Our club is proposing to hold a comp next summer for 2M F3-RES gliders using a standard bungee. Some others have ordered gliders from Hyperflight but I thought they seemed a bit light for UK conditions. The RES Eagle is a bit heavier than those but with about the same wing loading and a viable wing section, AG36. I also have the March 2018 article and plan which I’ve studied.
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