Here is a list of all the postings buster prop has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: What's flying over your house|
I was in some gardens near Wing in Buckinghamshire this afternoon and a Catalina flying boat went over. It was going slowly and not very high, probably under 2,000 ft. I expect it’s from Duxford, remember seeing one there at an air show. I don’t know of any others in the UK. A rarity, glad I was there to see it.
|Thread: Night Radian|
I have the ordinary Radian and had to move the elevator horn in towards the rudder. As standard it was too far out and the wire pushrod had to bend outwards giving stiff control with bad centring. My Radian did have different elevator movements too. Can’t remember if it was as much as 5mm. In the end I put a piece of flat carbon strip across the joiner.
|Thread: Downloading updates|
Correct advice from Steve. I have just updated my DX7 G2 in the way he described. It is important to "eject" the S D card before you remove it from the PC. If you don't do that the TX doesn't read the card. Btw age is no barrier I'm 73.
|Thread: Flying during pandemic.|
I have been going to our field early in the mornings because my wife doesn't trust people to social distance from each other. Reading the above post, I think she might be right. If that's the only way to go flying then early mornings it is, less windy then anyway. If anyone else appears I am supposed to leave immediately, swearing on a stack of bibles almost came into it.
|Thread: Onboard Voltage Sensor|
I have a Lemon LM0052 receiver which will display pack voltage. It has full telemetry for altitude and vario which is why I bought it for a thermal soarer. A full range DSMX receiver and it picks up battery pack voltage from a fly lead which goes into the highest voltage socket of the balance plug. Receiver voltage is also displayed but if that comes from a bec then it will always be 5V. I haven't had any range problems although I am using a satellite receiver. I have other Lemon receivers and they are good.
|Thread: Does anyone remember...|
I grew up in Maidstone, Kent and remember as a schoolboy going to Shaw’s shop at 60 High Street. In the late 1950’s down at the back was a model department while at the front of the shop they displayed prams and nursery furniture. Shaw’s stocked Kiel Kraft and Mercury kits, Jetex motors and small Diesel engines. The first model I ever built was the KK Achilles then some of the flying scale models. For some reason I liked the Me109 and must have built about 4 of them. One success was the Mercury Gnome glider which flew really well then a KK Nomad glider which ended up in a tree in Mote Park. A Jetex powered KK Hunter caught fire. I later bought an Allbon (DC) Merlin from Shaw’s which was the only engine I kept. I also owned a DC Bantam, noisy but gutless and a Frog 50 which I bought in a jumble sale for 5 Shillings and never managed to start. Unfortunately the Merlin was lost in a flyaway when I returned to model flying in the 1970’s. It wasn’t very powerful but easy to start which meant a lot at the time. I gave it all up in about 1963, for the usual reasons, so don’t know if there was ever another model shop in the town.
|Thread: Contagion, a film to watch|
Once, when my boys were young we went on a family holiday to the Med. My eldest took a book to read, so there he is waiting at the airport reading a book called Air Disasters with the title in big red letters above a picture of smoking wreckage. We got some odd looks.
|Thread: First electric glider suggestion|
I’ll second the recommendation to get an Easy Glider. Very pleased with mine which is an EG4. As far as I can see the differences between it and earlier Easy Gliders are: square section wing spar, bolt on tail and M-Space fuselage. M-Space is Multiplexes’ idea of having cavities inside the rear fuselage to save weight. Mine was an RR and I fly it with a 1300 3S instead of a 2200. The ailerons aren’t very powerful but the rudder is, you could probably fly it rudder and elevator. I have a lot of rudder mixed with the aileron channel. Good plane, high quality manufacture, tough, easy to fly but not a real floater like a Radian. Can perform very well.
|Thread: What's flying over your house|
The BBMF’s Spitfire and Hurricane circling before the fly past for Capt. Tom Moores’ 100th birthday. He lives at Marston Morteyne in Bedfordshire about 7 miles from here. No pics, sorry. I heard them at 8.20 and rushed out into the garden to see them go past. There was no time to get my phone which was on charge. Wonderful sight and sound, both very low.
|Thread: Record model flight attempts|
Fascinating. A signpost showed it all happened in Kent, not far from where I grew up. The Taplin twin diesel took a lot of flicking to get going, no electric starters at the time. It shows what can be done with single channel radio, would have been 27MHz then well before the CB craze. 'Only a Ford Consul' ? Thats an early Mk2 convertible, about 1958 or 59. Soon after then the low line shape came out with slightly different styling such as the rear lights. They were produced until 1962. Wonderful cars, basic and underpowered by modern standards but I like their style.
|Thread: Returning to the hobby|
Thanks for explaining that Ron. I admit I've been put off Taranis by reading about the hassles people have. I can see that it's possible to create your own complicated set ups which would be impossible with other radios. It depends on whether you need all that flexibility, for simpler planes I probably don't so for now I'll stay with Spektrum.
|Thread: Light Relief|
To pass the time I've been browsing YouTube. At first for clips related to model and full size flying, then as you do straying into classic rock and motoring which led me into Jay Leno`s garage. Jay is a US chat show host and car enthusiast with many restored classic cars and a few motorbikes. He describes vehicles and bikes in detail then takes them out for a drive. Not all are American, he's featured a 1964 Triumph Bonneville and a 1963 Jaguar E Type (XK-E over there). My wife watches Belgravia while I sit with the iPad and headphones watching YouTube.
|Thread: Returning to the hobby|
Ok, creating a new model and binding receivers seems pretty straightforward. If you can use Taranis like that without getting into LUA scripts, bootloaders, flashing and all other mysteries that I read about then fine. If I buy a Taranis transmitter which works with present receivers, will it work in a few years time with newer receivers? It’s the updating bit that worries me. I can update my Spektrum transmitterwith an SD card and it works with all my receivers. No compatibility issues or need for ‘flashing’.
|Thread: Probable scam?|
An excellent Panorama prog. the other evening about a highly organised call centre in India which is the source of the calls we get about our internet connection. You can tell, the phone rings, at first silence then background chatter and after a pause someone comes on the line saying they are the ‘BT (or Microsoft) technical department’. It’s in an office block near Delhi and run by a chap who has a very luxurious lifestyle. I had such a call this morning and let him go on about corrupted files on our router and asking me to log onto their website immediately so I challenged him. He denied it of course and when I said I’d seen their call centre on BBC TV he hung up. Apparently they scam people in the UK, US and Australia, making millions of £’s every month.
|Thread: Anyone used the Spektrum AR410 or 620 receivers ??|
I’ve flown an AR410 in an electric model since last summer with no problems. It never went out of range but as the model is only 1 M span I didn’t fly it at extreme range. The AR410 has telemetry which works with any telemetry capable Spektrum Tx. It displays voltage at the receiver but with an ESC that doesn’t help much. The telemetry from an AR410 has less range than the control link, I occasionally get a ‘telemetry lost’ voice message but no control glitches at all.
|Thread: RES-Eagle Glider RCME March 2018|
George Stringwell’s book about thermal soaring recommends that the towhook should be placed just ahead of the CG. If you drop a vertical line from the point on the wing where the CG is, then another line sloping at 30 degrees in front the towhook position should be where that line crosses the bottom of the fuselage. I wonder about this method because it depends how deep the fuselage is? GS says that it can be fine tuned to get a steep but stable climb. I will make sure my glider is trimmed by hand launches first before risking the bungee, don’t want three months work converted to matchwood in seconds! The hook in the kit is an L shaped wire with a woodscew thread at one end but the plan doesn’t show any fitting details. I’m sure a straightened out cup hook would do the job.
Hi Pete, work on my RES-Eagle is on hold at the moment because we have the builders in and my workshop is being used for storage. What I did though was put the wing centre section flat on a table and plugged the wingtips in to measure the dihedrals. At the tips I have 140mm and at the dihedral break 35mm. The model is basically finished, all covered, servos are in and working. The cg is too far back, so I must get that sorted. Can’t fly at the moment anyway. I haven’t fitted the towhook either, the plan doesn’t show how but I thought of glueing a hardwood block inside to screw the tow hook into. Might reinforce the fuselage floor at that point with 3mm ply..
Ah yes, the spoiler. Getting it to work took some time. I made a pushrod from paper clip wire so that it could be bent to a length and shape that would completely open and shut the spoiler. At first I used a servo tester with the servo wedged between the W01 wing ribs at the centre, as in Ton’s picture and temporarily hinged the spoiler with Sellotape. Trying to get enough ‘up’ movement as well as closing the spoiler completely didn’t work so I used a longer horn on the servo. Better, but the pushrod was binding against the spar and lifting the front edge of the spoiler when closed. There’s very little room in there so I bent the wire to raise it away from the spar. Then it was binding at fully open, against the spoiler frame. Filing a small notch and moving the servo fixed that but it was buzzing at fully closed. After that I used the radio instead of a servo tester so that the servo’s movement can be adjusted for each direction at the Tx and finally got the spoiler opening and closing completely with no binding or servo-buzzing. I’m working it from the throttle stick on the Tx rather than a switch because it might be useful to have proportional control. A small Alturn servo from the spares box fits. Getting the spoiler right has probably been the most difficult part of building the RES-Eagle. It works now, closes completely and just about enough ‘up’. Flight tests will tell. You can see the completed fuselage. Getting there!
Hi Pete. W01 and W02 ribs are recessed by about 2mm to allow the spoiler to drop into the frame. With the 2mm frame thickness they should be flush with the upper surface of the wing when retracted. The spoiler should be sanded slightly to blend in with the aero foil. It isn’t very clear on my earlier post unless you expand the picture. I’ve covered the centre section now and am trying to get the spoiler to extend and retract fully. I’ll take a picture and explain.
|Thread: FrSky Major Update for most TX and RX|
Reading this makes my brain hurt. Think I'll stay with Spektrum (DSMX), it just works and has been reliable. All I want to do is fly my planes, don't need all that hassle.
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