Here is a list of all the postings buster prop has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Which brushless motor and prop for WW Orion-E|
I used an E-max C.F.2822 motor on mine with a 9 x 5 prop on a 2S battery. 70 Watts was enough to give a reasonably good climb. There's a thread on here about this model, lots of info.
|Thread: Thanks for everybody’s time to reply|
I built two of Derek Woodwards` designs from free plans in a magazine. They both flew well and I still have one of them so yes, I was a fan. Someone else that I actually knew for a while was Ray Jones who used to write the `Slopeside` page in the BMFA mag. He was Chairman of the Clwyd Soaring Association when I was a member in the late 70`s and was a great character. Ray was a total gliding enthusiast, full of stories and was always helpful to beginners like me. I was sad to read that he had died a few years ago. Glad I once knew him.
I’m a fan of Balsaloc too, it really holds down the edges of film as described. However.. put some Vaseline on the pot threads or the lid may never unscrew again. I had a pot that was left for a few weeks and I only got the lid off after a struggle.
|Thread: Alula Trek|
Does anyone on here fly an Alula Trek? I have acquired one and trying a discus launch on the flat showed that it’s very pitch sensitive even with the CG on the bumps underneath the wing, the recommended position. Unfortunately I don’t have the instructions. I reduced the elevator movement and it was still sensitive in pitch. For slope flying I put 10 grams into the weight box over the balance point and launched. The first flight was a roller coaster, so I landed it and cut down the movement even more and increased the expo to 35%, more than I usually use. The Trek is very short coupled. Elevator movement is now only 20% on low rates, the elevator moves + - 4 mm. It was more manageable and I was confident enough to fly it faster. The Trek is not a floater, it can go surprisingly fast if you push it. I enjoyed just soaring and flying fast passes across the slope while being very careful with the elevator. I did one inadvertent loop. Another thing I found is that the push rods will easily slip in the clevises, tiny screws holds them in place. This may be designed to save the servo gears like a mechanical fuse so I keep checking the elevon alignment. I don’t want to move the pushrods to the inner hole on the servo horns because that would reduce aileron control. My Trek is getting there and is great fun to fly. The Trek followed the Evo and they both seem to be highly thought of. I wondered if anyone else had one and how they like it.
|Thread: Christmas wishes|
Happy Xmas to all and best wishes for 2019. That’s whether you fly i.c. Leccy, jets, gliders, helicopters or.. Nearly wrote drones but I won’t go that far!
|Thread: Christmas films worth recording|
I've been recording Star Wars movies for my grandson, he's a great fan of anything to do with Star Wars. On the other topic, I also remember the scene in Battle of Britain with Susanna York in her underwear. Unforgettable. My schoolboy crush was on Liz Frazer, she was in some of the Carry On films. Neither actress is still with us unfortunately.
|Thread: which is cheaper,IC or ELECTRIC?|
Exactly. It depends whether you think the engine is the most Important thing or the plane being flown. After all you just need motive power, it can be I.c. electric, rubber band, CO2 or wind onto a slope. It's the flying that matters. Talking of which, are we glider flyers all soulless psychopaths because we don't use I.c. motors? In reply to the OP I admit that for large power models electric would be expensive but for the small ones I fly electric has advantages. I don't think you can even get r/c engines less than .40, certainly not as 4 strokes.
Ooh! I think I touched nerve there. My remarks were meant to be ‘tongue in cheek’but I just prefer the cleanliness and reliability of electric flight. For me it’s about flying, not tinkering with engines. Apart from my gliders I mostly fly small/medium electric models, not huge ones as I don’t have the space to store them. Each to their own but I don’t have to strip engines to replace bearings, adjust valves or use after-flight oil. I have seen enough dead stick landings and needle twiddling, although I admit that the MDS was a 2 stroke. A field I fly at has houses nearby so noise is an issue as well. Btw, thanks Rocker, you took my post in the right spirit.
I really don't know why electric models are said to be boring and soulless. AS long as the plane has enough power and performs the same as it's I.c. equivalent, what's the difference? If you really want the I.c. experience, play engine noises into headphones, spray the model with glow fuel and wipe it off after flying. Even carry a box of bricks out to the field if you miss carrying fuel, starter and tools about and if your transmitter allows, program it for random throttle closing then you get the dead stick experience too. I was once told that MDS stands for More Dead Sticks by a frustrated and oily I.c. flyer. When the plane is up there you have to do fly it in exactly the same way if it's electric or I.c.
|Thread: Ionic wind power|
I'm not being negative, just pointing out a problem that designers would have to overcome if they use this technology for a full sized aircraft. I also gave a description of the test model as reported in the Times. I don't resist change, going Ohm now.
An interesting principle but hardly practical. What would happen if it flew in the rain? The + and - 20Kv would flash over and then no propulsion. The model that flew in a gym in Massachusetts had a 5M wingspan and weiged 2.5Kg according to the Times, and it resembled a thermal soarer.
|Thread: Autumn is here...you been flying ?|
A fine breezy yesterday here with the wind from the south so good for Ivinghoe Beacon. The south slope is flyable except for having to land crosswind along the slope. The air can be turbulent there as well because it is downwind from another hill. Partly for those reasons I took my Slipstream foamie wing to fly. I have changed the pushrods from the kit supplied bike spokes to carbon rods but other than that it’s absolutely standard. Had several long flights, the lift was good and even some thermals went through. After my Cliffwhacker session a couple of weeks ago I’m getting more into slope soaring. This is an actual and metaphorical slippery slope I’m afraid..
|Thread: Spektrum transmitter for a beginner|
I agree, 7 channels have always been enough for me. 2 for ailerons plus elevator, rudder and motor. That’s 5 and enough over for retracts etc. I have the original DX7 like Peter but mine is DSM2 only. Did you have yours modified Peter? I also have a Gen 2 DX7 which is just DSMX because it was bought after the EU stopped Spektrum importing DSM2 Tx’s. I must say that all my Spektrum gear has been reliable.
|Thread: T9 Hobbysport|
T9`s website shows "out of stock" for all Hacker models. I wonder why this is. The Vagabond was quite big hit, several seen on my nearest slope.
|Thread: Howzat II|
Thanks Bob, that’s how it must work. I just wondered whether bands pulled through with a hook would be tight enough with the wings in place.
Chris Williams’ Howzat II glider plan and article were in the May 2018 issue of the mag. I’ve been looking over the plan with a view to making it a winter build. Haven’t finally decided to build it yet, storage is an issue for me and there’s a lot of wood in this model with sheet covered wings and plenty more in the fuselage. However, there’s just one thing about the plan that I can’t understand unless I’m missing something. The wings slide onto a joiner and incidence pegs. They are held together with rubber bands going across inside the fuselage centre section from hooks screwed into both wing roots. The only problem is that the fuselage is fully sheeted there so I can’t see how to fit the bands between the hooks. I suppose they could be pulled through from one wing, stretched and hooked onto the other one but would they be tight enough to hold the wing halves together? I have a glider which uses this method of wing attachment (a smaller model with only two hooks) but that has a hatch for band-fitting access. If anyone is building a Howzat II please let me know how the wing attachment works.
|Thread: they are still at it.(PayPal).|
I have had the message saying that our internet will be disconnected within 24 hours. It's a recording by a woman with an American accent. The giveaway is that she says "This is a message from your service provider" because they don't know who my service provider is. So obvious, I just hang up.
I see that your Cliffwhacker has a bolted-on wing and fancy wingtips. BTW I like the colour scheme. The dowels and bands on mine must be quite draggy but it would take severe surgery to adapt the model now, should have thought of it during the build. I did think about making mine a powered version once, but will leave it as a slope soarer as I’m really enjoying flying it. Is your Purple Power motor reversed so that it fits behind the front former? That’s the problem with electrifying glider designs, you often have to fit an extra former to support the motor backplate unless the motor’s reversed.
Our slope is also strictly for gliders, being NT land. I have flown a Radian there with the prop banded to the nose, just had to remember to leave the throttle stick alone! The only problem was landing, it just wanted to soar to great heights. I have a MPX Solius too and wonder how that would go off the slope. Would look nice with the glider nose cone if I could get one.
It doesn’t seem like 3 ½ years since I built my Cliffwhacker which now has full span ailerons instead of ailerons with flaps. Today there was a moderate breeze onto the slope and I threw the Cliffwhacker off and found I was having to hold in some elevator until I got some up trim in. When I landed it the elevator neutral was slightly up. With 63g of lead taken out of the nose and the elevator trim back to where it was the model flew better, going faster with more penetration and the elevator level which has to be better. It goes up fast in lift and I only had to give a nudge of down elevator to level it off. The model feels stable and no tail dragging in turns, although the balance point is now about 1cm behind the spar rather than on it as it was before. My next flight was over 20 minutes and after a sandwich and chat break, one or two more. I went home feeling pleased with the Cliffwhacker. Are the other models in the 2015 thread still in existence? A glider I would recommend and well worth the building effort.
|Thread: What's flying over your house|
Saw a DC3 in D-day markings flying over Wavendon Bucks on Sunday. Milton Keynes museum had a 1940’s weekend, vehicles and a ‘WW2 flypast’. I think the DC3 I saw was the fly past, on the way back to wherever it came from. Glad I happened to be there!
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