Here is a list of all the postings chris larkins has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
I may have misread the original post, if the transmitter is the JR DSX9 then it will be DSM2.
If it is the Spektrum DX9 then my post above will apply
The early DSX9 Transmitters use the DSMX protocol but were also backwards compatible with older DSM2 receivers (my transmitter is one of those), this means that you have the choice of buying DSMX or DSM2 receivers and they will both work. My point was that IF you have this choice then DSMX receivers are definitely the way to go for some very well documented reasons.
Of course if Adam's transmitter is one of the latest ones it will only use the DSMX protocol.
If you don't want to cut costs then stick to Spektrum!
However........most of us do want to look for a cheaper alternative. I also have a DSX9 and I have used Lemon receivers with good success. I have one of their receivers with a built in Gyro and this works very well and has given rock solid RF performance, I can thoroughly recommend the Lemon telemetry units too as they work very well and are ridiculously cheap compared to the Spektrum offering considering they come with all sensors.
They have also just released a range of receivers which have built in telemetry (as Spektrum and OrangeRx already do). BRC Hobbies stock them in the UK **LINK**
If your transmitter is one of the earlier versions which still supports DSM2 don't be tempted to go down this route, DSMX is the way to go.
Edited By chris larkins on 29/01/2017 00:17:13
Edited By chris larkins on 29/01/2017 00:17:33
|Thread: Running ignition from receiver pack.|
I personally have never used a single battery for the RX & the Ignition and so far have always used a separate 4 cell NiMh pack for the Ignition.......................... HOWEVER ................I recently watched the following video from Redwing RC who sell a battery with two outputs and actually recommend using a single battery as long as you are using 2.4ghz.............watch the video and make your own mind up.
Edited By chris larkins on 06/12/2016 21:41:31
Edited By chris larkins on 06/12/2016 21:42:07
|Thread: Camcorders ?|
The trouble with a Go Pro is the lack of zoom, if you are filming from the ground in no time the model will be a speck in the sky unless you can zoom in, it needs to be an optical zoom too otherwise the quality will drop dramatically.
You can get fairly good results from a reasonably cheap handheld camera, mine is a Panasonic HC-V100 that I bought several years ago, this records in 1080p on an SD card and has a 42x zoom and image stabilization, if you didn't mind second hand they can be picked up on eBay for around £50. A more current model such as the V160 is around £130 (in the sale at Curry's), obviously other makes are available but I don't have any experience with these
Below is a video I took with my HC-V100, make sure you set the quality to HD when watching
|Thread: How Much Oil Should You Use In The Fuel?|
Thanks for your reply John.
The reason that I was thinking of converting to petrol is to try to get away from 3 different power sources that I currently use (Electric/glow/petrol) and stick to just electric & petrol. I own a few petrol engines and I am always impressed with the lack of equipment needed and the distinct lack of fiddling required (usually), they also run very clean and although not quite as important with an engine of this size the fuel is very cheap.
The biggest problem that I have had, along with others, is the fact that the carb on a glow engine is just not designed for use with petrol and although it can be set to run well the needles are so sensitive that just one click either way makes a huge difference.
I am sure you are aware of this already but there is an independent guy selling conversion kits for all popular 4 stroke glow engines, ranging from a full kit to individual parts. Anyway for his Laser conversions he is using a carb from an evolution 10cc petrol engine and supplying it with a machined adaptor to fit the Laser head (picture below). I already have all the parts necessary to do this conversion with the exception of the machined adaptor (I was going to ask a clubmate with a lathe to make this for me).
There are videos of these conversions on youtube and they seem to run well, however if there is a good reason that this is not good for the engine in the long term then I would consider sticking to running it on glow. I would be interested to hear why you think this may result in mechanical failure as this might help me to make my mind up.
These 2 questions are for John Harper really, firstly I have just obtained what I believe is a Laser 100 from a club member that has had it sitting in a drawer for at least 20 years (he thinks it may be far longer), it had only about 30 mins running before being laid up so is like new and turns over freely. When I say that it's a Laser 100 this is an educated guess as there are absolutely no engravings of any kind to confirm that, the distance from the crankshaft to the top of the rocker box is approx 100mm. John could you confirm that it is a 100 and also take an educated guess as to its vintage? (picture below)
Secondly once I have run it on glow and verified that all is well I am thinking about converting it to petrol (as I have successfully with an Sc 1.20 4 stroke). I know that this is not recommended but if you were to recommend an oil mix what would it be? 1:30 on fully synthetic or more/less?
|Thread: Multiplex connectors|
Those connectors are commonly known as Ashlock connectors, they are available from a few vendors, see links below
and UK jet shop
|Thread: Can you make a plane quieter|
A model can be modified to have a canister fitted even if it was not originally designed this way. The photo's below show my Seagull Edge 540 v2 fitted with an MLD 35cc petrol engine and an internal canister muffler. The firewall was opened up with an appropriate size hole saw, I also made up a liteply ring which fits around the rear of the canister to keep it secure, both the firewall and liteply ring are lined with silicon tube split along its length to keep it secure and reduce any vibration. This set-up with a Biela 20 x 8 prop came out at just under 82db measured on my club's noise meter.
|Thread: How much does your club membership cost on top of your adult 33 pounds BMFA membership?|
Ours is £87 inc BMFA, for that we have access to a 5 1/2 acre field that is owned outright by the club with 3 runways, clubhouse with kitchen and a garage, we also have a free BBQ once a year during our mid-summer fly-in.
|Thread: Model flying photos you're proud of|
Photo taken of my Seagull edge 540 v2 taken last Thursday. Model is fitted with an MLD 35cc petrol and a 20 x 8 Biela prop.
|Thread: What tips for fuel proofing|
I would second the use of epoxy finishing resin, on several models I have mixed in a VERY small amount of black paint and it then dries just like a coat of paint but still gives a tough fuel proof finish
|Thread: Help with info on Lipo batteries|
The 3200mAh batteries would probably work ok...........but the endurance would probably be just 3 mins or so. Ducted fan models have a high current draw and even with the recommended battery flights of 4-5 mins are the norm, which is why many people fit batteries that are much larger than recommended and accept the weight penalty, in addition fitted to an EDF a 25C battery would only give average performance at full throttle and a battery with a higher 'C' rating would give better performance.
As to the model it all depends how much you want the ME262, if you don't want to buy new batteries stick to the Tempest, if you really want the ME262 get some new batteries with a 4000-5000 mAh capacity and a rating of at least 30C
Edited By chris larkins on 23/09/2016 14:37:26
|Thread: Petrol glow plug|
My SC 1.20 is totally stock, no head shims or any other mods. The only thing I found, as have many others, is that the main needle is extremely sensitive with just one click either way making a big difference. I have read on another thread (similar to the diagram on page 1) that giving the needle a finer taper helps to make it far less sensitive and I will be trying this next
I test ran my SC 1.20 4 stroke this afternoon on the O.S G5 plug, see video below.
This engine was converted to electronic ignition using an ignition unit from hobbyking and a magnet ring/sensor bracket from Morris Mini Motors and it ran beautifully...........Today's engine run was a first test using an O.S G5 glow plug, the magnet ring and sensor bracket are still fitted to the engine but have been disconnected. With a small amount of tuning we got the engine to idle reliably at 2500 rpm and peak at 8050 rpm with a smooth transition using an evolution 16 x 6 prop.
|Thread: black horse chipmunk|
I was thinking of the setup with an NGH 38 4 stroke, does it fit completely within the cowl?
Check out the setup videos by Spektrum on Youtube, there are 16 in total and they take you through every step including using the app, the link below is to step 2, there is a link to all the others on the right hand side
Edited By chris larkins on 07/08/2016 17:13:05
|Thread: Prop ballancer which one to buy.|
I've used one of these with great success, it has the small magnetic cone type balancer as well as the shaft supported by bearings for large diameter props..........good price too
|Thread: Flair Peashooter Instructions|
Does anyone have a copy of the instructions that came with the Flair P-26 Peashooter ARTF kit? I have just bought a second hand model that is ready to fly but I wanted to verify the correct C of G and control surface throws.
I believe the model is identical to the C M Pro Peashooter so if anyone has the manual for one of these that would be helpful too.
|Thread: Is Halfords clear lacquer fuel proof|
Halfords actually make a separate lacquer that is petrol resistant, this is not the same as the normal lacquer, see link
Edited By chris larkins on 01/07/2016 23:03:04
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