Here is a list of all the postings Tim Cheal has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: A new caption competition - winner declared!|
Keep looking into my eyes....
When I click my fingers you will have forgotten all about the plane hitting the fence
|Thread: Essential RC's videos|
I am normally a silent observer, but I just wanted to say how much I am enjoying your videos. The PC21 is lovely, and its worth watching just to see the prop start turning!!
|Thread: Field boxes|
I guess the second law would be: No matter how big your field box, the item you need is not in it!
I do have one though, with the much hated Power Panel and 12V 7A battery, with starter and glow driver and a variety of tools.
|Thread: Wash out|
I have a 2 meter cub and it is very prone to tip stalling (not a DB one though).
I think the real thing has washout, and this picture is great example of it.
Good luck with the build.
Edited By Tim Cheal on 26/04/2019 11:11:26
|Thread: Bored Australian pilot|
Or, he can program a GPS well......
Sorry to hear about the loss of the Acrowot. I lost confidence in my DX8 a while ago and sent it to Spectrum for a check, they replaced the RF board free of charge. I have had no problems since. It was when they still had a UK HQ though.
You are kinder to Spectrum bashers than me Nigel R!
The switch video is brilliant, and although I don't have any 'big' models with high servo loads I shall be using the eTronix switches in the future - they do one without the fuel dot and a recharging plug I note.
|Thread: Glow Power Indicator|
I found one a bit quicker delivery but couldn’t see any specific mention of a shunt.
I’ll take a risk!
Nigel, will any 5A ammeter do, e.g. like this one from ebay (costs peanuts, but delivery time is lengthy so don't want to get the wrong thing)?
So, I got chance to wire it up and see what happens.
I stripped off the original power panel wires and put the 2v battery on the back of the terminals and, as expected, all worked well (the plug glows!). But,I now put the ammeter in series and when I connect the glow plug it no longer glows, and the ammeter goes to full deflection. I am guessing that I have taken a resistor out of the circuitry, but no idea which part of the circuit board this is!
Does that sound right? Or could it indicate that the ammeter is toast? Or, should I wire it in a specific way?
If I need a resistor in the circuit, any advice on size?
Sorry about this, electronics is just not my thing!
I am sorry for the loss of the Wot 4, but what a great thread, and great to see the analysis and investigation.
I end up with more of a question really, but what happens to the load on your set up when the servos are resisted in movement. Here is what I am thinking......
At full deflection (as per the spin) do (did?) any of the control services get to full deflection, and thus the servo is now pushing against an irresistable force? In this case, what would happen to the current on the servo? I'm thinking that the amperage may go up even higher than your table indicates, potentially causing a brown out. This would potentially happen only when holding full deflections, as you were using in the spin.
It may be the case that the amperage does not increase, hence my question which one of the electronic experts may be able to consider.
Thanks for a great thread though. (And I cant help thinking that BEB would have loved this thread!)
|Thread: Glow Power Indicator|
HI all, thanks for the replies so far, and suggestions.
Supertigrefan raises some good questions, so let me expand. I currently use a power panel with 12v battery for my starter and glow driver, but when the battery gets tired I find the glow doesnt always sustain when the starter is being cranked. In these instances I can flick start the engine and normally its fine, so I am only looking at belt, braces and another belt! The 2v cell I have I cant get at right now, but I think it is 4.5A.
So, my extra belt was to carry the 2v battery with me, and suitable connectors for my glow driver and just switch it over if I note the 12v battery dropping off. Then I thought I could tidy this all up and incorporate something similar to the glow boxes above into my flight box (which is on wheels). Thus, the desire for some kind of ammeter/led and the possibility of using the ‘pot’ from the power panel. So, the questions continue.
Will any ammeter do (as suggested a couple fo quid up to 6A)?
Is there a 2v ‘pot’ available rather than th eone off the power panel?
If I use a long wire to drop the voltage, how long is very long? Thanks again for all your help.
I know I should just wire it up and see what happens, but any help gratefully received.
I’ve an old power panel I could break apart and use the ammeter and the adjuster if you think that would work?
Has anyone used an LED in series?
I am not sure if anyone can help me, but its a really simple question I was after some advice with.
I presently use a Power Panel to drive my starter and glow plug, I can see if I have good contact with he plug by the ammeter indication. But, I also have a nice 2v battery which I can use. The only thing is I get no indication of whether the circuit is made. So, I have two thoughts for solutions.
One, wire the 2v battery through the power panel ammeter - but I couldn't see an easy way to do this.
Or, put something in the circuit with the 2 volt battery. Is it as simple as putting 2v led in the circuit, or even a small digital ammeter? I have to confess that I couldn't readily see a 2v led to be honest.
Your thoughts gratefully received.
|Thread: Dave Burton (BEB)|
Like many others I never met BEB, but always enjoyed his postings and his clear understanding, plus his articles in RCM and E. I have learnt so much from reading his work.
I wonder if anyone has considered letting this family have a copy of this thread as a sort of condolences book?
|Thread: SC52 2stroke issue.|
If the engine orientation is the issue, what happens when you run the engine with the model upside down? It would tell you whether reversing the engine orientation will solve the issue - at least I would have thought so?
Good luck, I had a similar problem with an OS55AX which would deadstick, there is a thread on here, but I am not sure it will help as mine was an overheating issue.
|Thread: Best Heating Option For Your Hobby Shed|
All been a bit delayed,
Santa (OK, its really SWMBO) is worried about diesel emissions into the garden, so all on hold and looks like I will just be cold in the garage until I can find an alternative solution!
No worries about actually arriving for Christmas Peter, just would be nice to get it working before the coldness of Jan/Feb. I have found the heater and a muffler on Amazon, so that would be my first port of call if I do go the Diesel heater route.
Thanks again for all your help.
P.S. Just about to get into my V6 Diesel and drive 200 miles, but thats different (apparently)!
Thanks Peter, and Gary
I shall be writing my letter to Santa and putting it up the fireplace first thing in the morning.
This has been a great thread, thanks again.
My "shed" is a "detached' double garage (no cars of course) and it is freezing in the winter months. I have tried fan heaters etc and like you found them pretty useless (unless you are in the direct hot air path). Thus, I am very grateful that you have posted the information here, and its an ideal time to by one for Santa to deliver. You mention silencers, but I haven't found one on the internet yet, do you have a link to where one might get a silencer for the unit.
|Thread: Can Anyone Identify This Model Please|
Awesome, thank you so much Alan.
Just bumping back to the top as no takers before it disappeared onto Page 3!
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