Here is a list of all the postings Graeme Poke has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: The State of Play|
A couple that I like, rarely modeled, are the Supermarine Spiteful/Seafang, followed the Spitfire, and the de Havilland Hornet, following on from the Mosquito. Cheers Graeme
|Thread: Seagull radial rocket|
Thanks Tim. I will do as you and Ron have done and align the cowl and fuse graphics. Then mount the engine accordingly. All the best Graeme
Thanks for that Ron, you are a champion.
Looking at it with more precision, 138mm is spot on. The 133mm I came up with earlier was a quick, rough measurement and in my frustration assumed the manual must have been 20mm out. So in fact it is 25mm out.
So I will go with 138mm. It also helps to fit the Saito 80 four stroke in that it gives it more clearance from the firewall.
So back to the assembly, cheers Graeme
Thanks cymaz, more confusion.
That manual is similar but there are some differences. On page 17 of the manual you linked to, the electric set up states 145mm. In my manual it's 113, same as IC. Doesn't make sense. Why would it be 125mm for IC, 145mm for electric in your link?
I'll do as you suggest and email them. Cheers Graeme
Hi All, After Ron gave me some advice, see further up the thread, I bought one of these. Since I'm spending more time in the workshop (you know why) I decided to put it together.
I started with the engine, Saito 80, and ran straight into trouble. The instructions state that the distance from the firewall to the thrust driver is 113mm. However, if I do this (with some difficulty pushing the cowl on) the lines/paint work on the cowl do not line up with the fuse. But if I take the distance out to 133mm it's spot on. Is it a mistake in the manual or am I missing something?
Has anyone else had this problem please? Happy building, Graeme
Thanks Ron, I'll give it a bit more thought before committing. In other words, talk myself out of it.
I am due for a tax return so I'll see how that goes. All the best Graeme
I am interested in buying a Radial Rocket. I have a Saito 80 and was wondering if it would have sufficient power to do justice to scale flying given that it is a Reno racer. And any comments you may have on the model. Are you happy with it? Any thoughts please? Cheers Graeme
|Thread: Glow Sticks|
Robert, as suggested by Steve and brockenenglish back in May, I am using one metre leads. Seem to be working fine.
Ultymate, I have remote glow leads with access in the side of the cowl well behind the propeller and they don't pose a problem. I am no longer using glow sticks but the SLA 5ah lead battery with a one metre lead as detailed above. When i did use glow sticks I was attaching them to the glow plug by a cable.
Our club has starting tables that also helps with safety.
Hope this makes sense. Cheers Graeme
An update on my experience with the Cyclon 2volt 5ah SLA glow start battery as suggested by Steve Hargreaves.
I have been using this battery for a month, about 30 flights in that time. It has been excellent, still strong glow, only the one charge at the start. At this stage, my problem solved. Couldn't be happier. Thanks Steve and all contributors. Graeme
I am aware of the RCATS driver Percy. There are 3 in our club of which I am aware . Work very well. I am not prepared to spend the $s. Yes tight! 80% of the time the sticks are fine. Its just those few occasions when they don't deliver. so I thought I would give Steve's SLA method a go as backup. As I say, time will tell.
Thanks broken. That gives me cause to be confident. Cheers Graeme
Thanks for that link Geoff. I'll check that out when I have some free time. Bit of research there.
Yes Paul, thats what i have been doing as well. Carry 4 glow sticks. But I am a bit slow to recharge them and they don't seem to hold charge for long. I have found that occasionally that on a cold morning or i have flooded the the plug that the glow stick won't do it's work. After the first start of the day the sticks are fine . So I have been looking for a backup and I thought the SLA may be a simple solution. Time will tell.
I hadn't considered a lipo. I would need some means of reducing the voltage I presume?
Thanks for the suggestions, Graeme
Thank you Dennis. The shop advised me at 1 amp. I will back off that as you advise.
Gee Doc. So much stuff out there of which I wasn't aware. I am embarrassed to start it up again.
Well thats me sorted Steve. I have 3 smart chargers. 2 Swallows and 1 SkyrcD100. I'm assuming I use the PB setting.
The Swallows details are, C= (say) 0.5a, 2v pack. No mention of cells.
The SKYRC has (say) 0.5a. 2v (1p) No mention of cells.
So in both cases I presume those settings will be ok, with maybe a variance of the ma up to 1000ma.
I have charged the battery on both types of chargers. The SKY finished at 2.4v, the swallow at 2.34.
I have a 1.5m cable and the plug is certainly much brighter than my glow sticks. So all good so far.
I guess I needn't charge every time I fly. just check the brightness of the glow occasionally.
Thank you all for your much needed help. Graeme
As suggested by Steve Hargreaves back in November, I have bought a Cyclon 2v 5ah SLA battery. I have a smart charger. At what rate should I charge it please? Also I am concerned it will put out more that 2v fully charged resulting in blown glow plugs. Should I restrict it somehow? My knowledge of electrics is abysmal . Any help much appreciated.
|Thread: K3731 Martians Fury 1|
Welcome to OZ Colin. I had planned to attend the Avalon Air Show, but it didn't happen unfortunately.
Enjoy. All the best Graeme (My apologies for being "off topic". )
|Thread: Corsair TopFlite Gold Edition kit build blog|
I have been using "Aircraft Mechanics" electric retracts in my Blackhorse Heinkel 112-B. Nearly 200 flights in 12 months and the worm drive on one failed a couple of weeks ago. However they sell spare bits except for the frame for $40 or thereabouts. I have been very happy with them. Happy building, Graeme
|Thread: DX8 owners thread...|
Thank you Paul and Gordon. I'll have another look at a liPo then.
I had read somewhere that LiFe were safer than LiPo's in that they can be charged in situ. LiPo's it suggested should be removed for charging although that wouldn't really be a problem. Thanks Graeme.
I bought my DX8 transmitter in July 2012. I haven't had any problems. I would like to change the transmitter battery which is currently an eneloop 4.8v NIMH. It doesn't seem to hold it's charge as in the past.
The Spectrum manual on page 7 says I can use either a 4 cell NIMH or a or a 2 cell LiPo. However I would like to use a LiFe 2 cell 6.6v. I have Skyrc D-100 smart charger. So charging should be ok.
Does anyone know if this is possible please?
|Thread: Who's still got a Mick Reeves Focke-Wulf 190D-9?|
Thanks Erfolg. very informative. I'll just plaster on some white and red paint then. That'll be fun. happy painting Graeme
Thanks for the inspiration Erfolg. They certainly look good. You are a true modeler. I may give it a go after all. What is RLM spec standard paint please?
Ah yes. The wing root extensions. They were a problem. They are very springy plastic pieces that came with the Mick Reeves kit. No foam involved. I epoxied a small section of the plastic extensions at a time, starting under the wing, and waited until it was thoroughly dry. I then proceeded to the next section gradually gluing, drying and bending around the wing until they were completed. A nasty job but I am very happy with the result. Much better than I anticipated.
Yesterday I finished fibreglassing the wing using Deluxe Eze-Kote. Next is to fit it to the fuselage and sort out the tail plane and fin. Slow progress continues.
Happy building Graeme
I have been researching colour schemes. I was hoping to find something colourful. I found an all red one which might do. Also the red and white under wing type. Not keen on replicating those stripes though. It will only be a club flyer so might combine several schemes. I had thoughts of a winter white scheme that look good but I don't think the D9 Dora had those.
Any suggestions please? Thanks Graeme
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