Here is a list of all the postings Terry Whiting 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Building the Nijhuis Lysander|
I'm pleased it didn't take as long as the carbon rod to arrive.
I had never tried modelling with blue foam until I made my pilots legs,
I found it a very stable material to use. That's why I included some in the
I knew you would make a nice job of him, On my pilot I used Humbrol
and acylic paint.....
.Oh, and don't forget that Lysander pilots sit high in their cockpit.
I hope my pilots twin brother will be taking Portuguese citizenship
Those pictures are fantastic, and I really liked the picture of your Lizzy
dubbed over that of the Old Warden photo.
As I'm a member of the S.V.A.S (Shuttleworth Veteran Aeroplane Society)
I have a good mind to send them that picture, and ask when was the
purchase made of the second Lysander.
With your computer skills, I'm sure you will make an exceptional flight
Yes Sir, she really looks the part.
IC mufflers and cylinder heads are a bane to any scale modeller,
and going electric I'm pleased I now longer have that problem,but
in truth, I still miss the sound of my Laser engines .
The torch reflectors which I was going to use for the landing light
reflectors didn't work out, so I made some using the same technique
used for the lenses and head blisters.
The plug I used was a round nosed spinner. Once trimmed to fitting
shape they were sprayed with Chrome paint.
They work a treat.
I would suggest take what you can, and add them to you album. I have found yours and Jacks albums very informative.
Thanks to you both.
My plug system works fine, and as I always use paper tubes for flap and
aileron leads, the surplus lead just slides back into the wing with no problem.
Thanks Jim, yours will look the same when finished i'm sure. Individuality ditn't stop with colour schemes, as they were put to many uses.
I read in an aero mag Lysanders were even tied in the role as night time glider tugs. The writer of the piece was the actual RAF pilot that had been given the job of testing this mad idea,
He said, it was the most frightening task he had been given to do in the whole of his RAF service. Most probably some mad politicians idea.
The mind boggles.
Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 20/04/2010 09:08:21
I hope you are over your tummy upset, but as they say, 'Win some,
Thank you for your time in posting pictures for me, but with Jack's and your
comments I feel quite humbled. It's maiden flight will not be until mid May.
This has been a wonderful build project, . it may be the end of my build,
but will always be at hand as and when help is required.
Yes vetical grained.
For horizontal grain to flex the webs would have to split, and that is always a possibility.
The blue masking tape is well worth the little extra cash, but use a
'tack cloth' to wipe over the balsa. They are also available in B&Q.
Fine balsa dust is our worst enemy. I also use a tack cloth for the
final wipeover before covering with any heat shrink material.
Because you are setting washout in a prebuilt wing panel, it pays
to keep your weights on where possible in gluing the webs,as it's
the webs which finally create the wing's 'D'box.
In the past for scale detail I used artist chalk pastels for 'Aging',
or 'Dirtying up' (olding) before applying a varnish. The method is
so easy, and can obtain a very good effect, and a mistake can be
wiped off with a damp cloth.
Once satisfied the varnish seals the chalk work.
Thank you once again for including my pilot picture to the topic.
I do not mind admitting I'm absolutely useless with 'photobucket'.
or a computer. I was borne 50 years to early for this tech age.
Even my grandson has made my photo albums.
Thank you Ben.
The actual pilot is a latex WW2 9th scale, sitting on blue foam which
in just a few minutes I fashioned as part seat, buttocks, and thighs.
The hands my grandson gave from a broken toy, then it was 'splish,
splash, splosh' with matt Humbrol, job done.
I have made the means of plugging in the wing servos without
the look of wire spaghetti, I'm sure Mario who has become my
photo administrator will include it for me
I must say Mario you are making a fantastic job of your Lysander.
Will you use gloss, or satin varnish?
Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 17/04/2010 07:23:26
Please send no money my friend, as the pleasure is mine.
I look upon it as a small jesture in return of the undercarriage
and fittings you sent me, which were very much appreciated.
Since I changed my broadband server I seemed to have lost your home address.
PM me your address and I will see you receive a WW2 9th scale pilot.
I can order one Saturday and pick it up the following Saturday.
These pilots are in their natural unpainted state, hope thats OK.
Well that's your covering virtually complete., are you adding a
pilot and such.I have included a pilot in my lizzy, one of these
latex 9th scale WW2 models.
It looked rather silly with half a body due to the fact a Lysander
pilot sits quite high. My answer to the problem was, I made a
seat back from blue foam, and placed the model pilot on a block
of the same foam of 40mm X 55mm and 25mm thick, this I
fashioned it into part seat and pilots legs. It's nothing spectacular,
but I'm quite pleased with the effect.
I have just made my wing struts and about to paint them Satin Black
Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 15/04/2010 19:08:31
|Thread: safe wind speed|
The reason you didn't fall out of the sky is because your throttle setting was sufficient to still giving the air speed to fly, your model may have gone down wind at 30mph, but minus the 20mph wind speed you could have been very near to stall.
I made a suggestion in your Hawker Nimrod thread.
|Thread: safe wind speed|
I would say not over 10 mph for a novice. This hobby is about enjoying
the pleasure of flight . A novice flyer has enough to worry about without
having to fight the elements.
Once off the buddy box and is confident in his/her flying, let him/her decide
what is their comfort zone.
|Thread: Hawker Nimrod|
My only thoughts on this conundrum is to use aerodinamic
aluminium tube for the cabanes, and use an extention lead
through the tube. Even so the lead would have to be cut and resoldered
if the plug refused to push through the tube.
If you feared there was insufficient strength in the tube alone install
piano wire through the tube using it as a shroud.
Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 14/04/2010 07:50:11
|Thread: Building the Nijhuis Lysander|
Try this method in gluing a sheet to a mainspar on a test piece.
Along the mainspar using my PVA dispencer I make a series of
dashes about 1/2" (15mm) of PVA, leaving about 5mm between
In the 5mm gaps I place a dots of Zap Gap CA medium.(my prefered CA)
Wipe a damp cloth to the gluing edge of the sheet and position
on the spar. Within 5 seconds the CA has set leaving the PVA to
cure in it's own time.
Up until recently I was doing building reviews on my Club forum.
This method I called 'CA Pinning' , so whenever I used that term
members knew precisely what I was doing.
Once confident It can be applied to any sheet building.
I think our wires were crossed , I think you thought I was mounting
my servos externally. ......my fault for not making myself clear
Your pictures on page 10 are of the very method I always use
the servo being side mounted on it's hatch, albeit. undernieth.
A commercial plastic equivalent can be purchased, the only
difference is the commercial hatch has a push rod shroud,
in the moulding, but it's much cheaper doing it this way, and
no problem adding a shroud if one wishes.
So check out page 10 Max, for an easy servo mounting solution
Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 12/04/2010 15:03:11
Want the latest issue of RCM&E? Use our magazine locator link to find your nearest stockist!