Here is a list of all the postings Terry Whiting 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Building the Nijhuis Lysander|
Very neat hatch and installation. ......The 8-9th of May is not far away.
Hope you take some pictures of the com.
My aileron and flap servos are side mounted on 1.5mm birch ply hatches.
Hardpoints are glue to the ribs for screw securing hatch/servo.
It's a method I use on all my models. Makes life easier for any
The bending will slightly work harden, but it is best to do your bending once
annealed, leave it too long it might want reannealing.
Don't try to tempering, as the aluninium returns to it's original state naturally.
Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 11/04/2010 14:52:46
Theres a a product I think equal to Mario's, I use it, it's
'Evostik Serious Stuff' priced around £7 a cartridge. I have use it on
blue foame and balsa to Ali, and I can thoroughly recommend it.
If need be, it takes paint
Balsa to ABS,
ZAP-Gap medium CA works perfectly,
also on ABS to ABS, infact I found it better than the recommended ABS glue.
Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 11/04/2010 11:50:30
Thats coming on just fine, considering this is your first build, you have done exceptionally well.
I thought I would run though end panel washout again, save you searching.
With your skeletal panels sand inner LE level with the ribs.
Now cut your sheeting.
This wants to be cut 1.5mm (1/16") oversize widthwise allowing for rib
contour. The outer panel spans W20 - W10, but you must cut top and bottom
sheets long enough to span from W20 to W9. This is to allow for joining
both panels. Don't forget MED grade sheet of flexible quality.
I advise you cut a forward half bib of a W9 ( mainspar to LE) and glue it
to W9. This gives a double width rib giving good gluing support for both
outer and inner panel sheeting, otherwise when joining both panels
together the sheets would share one rib, which is not a good idea.
This is method nubber 2
You are now ready for sheeting......Glue (CA or PVA) both upper and
lower sheets to their mainspars only, clamp and let dry,
While drying sort out 6 2.4mm packers and one packer of 5mm and
one of 10mm.
The gluing of both panels can be done together, but as it's your first
attempt I suggest one at a time.
The ribs top, and top of inner LE add your glue, but do not pin .
Now place the panel on your board with 2.4mm packers under the
mainspar, the 5mm packer under the TE of W20, and the 10mm packer
under the TE of W10.
As the panel was built you will need weights. Do not rely on pinning down.
Place some scrap sheeting on your ribs and place weights on the
panel to hold down firmly on all packers , NOW pin sheeting to the glued
ribs and LE, Let this thoroughly dry.
Remove weights and lift from the board, wipe sheeting with a 'tack cloth'
and add lengths of masking tape long enough to go right round the sheeting
( the masking tap I use is Homebase blue, strong with good adhesion)
Now glue all rib bottoms and LE, place back on your packers, add weights
and fix lower sheet in place with the M-tape,again let dry.
While still weighted down remove any tape that might be in the way
and add spar webs. When this is dry, it has locked the washout in.
If there's anything you are not sure of PM me,
With two boards you can work on them alternately.
Jim, let me know when you are ready I will give you a runthrough of
panel joining if you so wish.
As I hadn't read anything more about your wing other than a successful panel parting operation, I wonderd if you had returned to your wing build again.?
I must be going senile in my old age my friend. I have found them.
I taped them in their plastic envelope to the steel undercarriage,
and put it away for safety, so safe I forgot about them.
I have only just started cutting, now I do not have to you are a pal
Yes that is the easiest way of covering this fuselage. I just had to take
extra care in shrinking the covering due to the fact my stringers are just
2mm X 6mm, slow work but but pleased with the final effect.
My undercarriage is now finished, and for the landing lights I use high
intensity LED and two x 3V Lithium button cells, and Wow, they show
up in bright sunlight.
Flaps and ailerons are now pin hinged with Kavan hinges.Have yet to
fit my aileron and flap outlet sockets.
The sockets I mounted in 1.5mm birch ply, shaped to fit either side of
F4 & 5 in such a way that they were opposite the plug exit holes of the
wings. The idea worked, but the ply failed after two trial pug in attempts.
I have now aquired some 1.5mm fibre glass sheet.
Have just started aluminium cutting for the wing struts. The aluninium
ends have been dovetailed into the ply inner core, easy to do with a file,
reason being I did not like the idea of the metal ends being just
sandwiched between balsa outer skins.
You are learning..
I think the sheeting problems you are experiencing is not that of the glue,
but that of wood selection, but I must admid the carbon residue left from
laser cutting does not help .
Whenever buying a wood pack I know you are limited, but before using any
wood ckeck it's grade, that goes for both, strip and sheeting.
Years back manufactures graded the end grain with three colours which
which denoted it's grade, soft, med, or hard, a pity it was discontinued.
If you have to moisten do not use immediately, let the wood lay for
10 minutes,before using, as a further moistening may be necessary.
I personally only use PVA and have no trouble, but then I have an
abundence of wood for my selection, and my wing build is that of
1.5mm,.which makes hell of a difference.
Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 07/04/2010 07:40:45
|Thread: Westwings wigeon|
I have been flying that model as an electric garden flyer for many years.
I salvaged very small servos from a wrecked foamy given to me,
and invested in a small geared brushed motor with a reduction gear
with a ratio of 6-1.
Check out KP Aero Models as they have some fantastic little geared
motors just right for rubber to electric conversion.
|Thread: Building the Nijhuis Lysander|
Yes I agree it does look weak, the only consolation is the joints are
staggered across the wing. When adding your main LE make a scarf
joint as the joint is with the aileron and flap hinge spars.
The wing strut mounts do add a little more strength.
As all my ribs are 1.5mm, I did add 2mm liteply doublers to W8 & W9
positioned where the strut mounts are fitted.
The pictures of your build look fine.
Yes it will have to come apart. I'm sure with your razor saw you can
carefully cut apart.
By what I can gather I think you joined the wing flat on your board.
All is not lost and can be salvaged my friend.
If any ribs are damaged you have the rib print out to cut others
so thats no problem.
You are right in assuming the tubes and rods do set the dihedral
to the inner wing panels, but that is only half of the story.
Ckeckout the wing cross section drawing and you will see the correct
Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 06/04/2010 07:20:49
I have just messaged you.
No do not try to seperate, but how did you set them up??
W1 should have sat firmly on the board, a 6mm packer
was required under the mainspar ar W9 , and 40mm packer
under the mainspar of W20.
This gives the correct dihedral and cross section wing shape.
When both wings are plugged together the wing should sit
on W1 and measure 40mm beteen the lower mainspar of
W20 and your board.
I'm pleased to hear you were talking about the obechi
That's another inconsistency with the mag instructions, and how T.N.
actually built the wing,.damn annoying
What you could do,is check the wing cross section and you will see
B1 & B2. Saw down W9 the depth of B1 and accurately epoxy to the
upper mainspar, when B1 has set, repeat for B2. When the two panels are
joined web over both with 2.4 balsa.
My wing build I didn't use the two B's. I made a central dihedral brace shaped
to fit between the mainspars 'which spanned from W8--W10 . W9 was triangle
brace to the mainspar and a 3mm slot was cut through it's centre..
All my webs are central between the mainspars creating an ' I beam' as a
girde , the mainspars are 6mm sq balsa, have never ever used obechi for spars.
Sorry, but i'm not quite with you on this 6mm washout ??? What have you done to obtain 6mm WO. You have got me worried.
The inner panels have no washout. The outer panels will only have
a fraction over 2mm which gives 3.5--4 degree washout.
The 6mm used under the TE of the inner panels gave no washout.
Well first I hope your panels are not joined..
If your tip panels are still separate you will need to prepare the top and
bottom wing skins, as these will be the means of locking the washout
once glued. In its skeletal state you should be able to twist slightly.
It's that twist we must secure.
Cut the sheets at least 1.5 mm (1/16")oversize width wise to that of the plan,
which includes the inner LE. Glue the lower sheet to it's mainspar only,
pin flat, and let dry.
Hopefully you have some oddments of scrap 2.4mm sheet, cut 6 or so
packers of 2.4mm sheet . These are placed under your mainspar,
Now you require two more packer,1 of 5.5mm the other of 10.5mm.
The 5.5mm goes under W20 at the TE, the 10.5mm under W9 at the TE.
Now I haven't mentioned pinning down, this is because you will require
weights, Lay a piece of sheet lengthwise over your ribs. Add weight over
W8 & 9 .and enough weight to hold W20 down on it's packer.
Place some scrapbalsa to pack up the inner LE so it will not rock when as you
glue on the top sheeting. You are now ready to glue that sheet,
use your prefered means of fixing, Let this dry before removing any weights
When it comes to the lower skin, do as I said using masking tape,
but once you have added your glue, place the panel back on all it's packers,
and again add the weights before sticking down the masking tapes,
You can also carefully place packers under the lower sheet at th LE to
hold in place.
Let this dry, but keep the weights on until you have your spar webs glued
in place. Once the spar webs are dry you washout will be locked in,
as you have created a 'D' box
Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 05/04/2010 11:23:28
I agree, not the easiest of builds, and conflicting advice between the
plan and magazine is not very helpful.
When I require washout I always build in and not twisted in.
By building in, all the component parts take up a slightly different
position than that of a flat build.
Start by cutting both wing sheets top and lower, but give an extra 1.5mm
in width which allows for the contour of the rib when finally glued.
Now cut a taper 3mm to 8mm, 44cm in length from 6mm sheet.
To your lower sheet glue a mainspar, pin and let dry.
Now position the sheet with it's attached spar over your plan
using 3mm packers under the sheet.
The taper is now positioned over the plan with it's 8mm end under
the TE of W9 and 3mm under TE of W20, also with 3mm packers
This may look as if 'WASHIN' will be the outcome, but I can assure you
it is Washout. of 3.5-4 degree
The reason for the reversed taper is due to the different sizes and shapes
to the ribs.
Now go ahead with the gluing the ribs, pinning through the spar and taper.
When dry add top mainspar, inner LE, and aileron hinge spar. Remember
your hinge fixing blocks
Once dry, without removing from your board, plane or sand the top of inner
LE level with the ribs, do the rib steel rule check, when satisfied add the
top sheeting. let dry.
When dry remove from your board, but leave mainspar packers ,and taper
in position. Turn wing panel over and carefully trim inner LE that of the ribs.
Use a **'Tack cloth' wipe off any dust from the sheet sufaces of top,and
lower sheets,(this helps masking tape to hold). Now stick about 8 lengths
of masking tape under the lower sheet,long enough to come right over
the glued top sheet.
Now add PVA to ribs and inner LE fo adhering lower sheet.
Reposition the wing on the taper and mainspar packers and pin down firmly.
.Now carefully pull the masking tapes to draw the lower sheet up to the
preglued ribs. Leave to dry, then add spar webs
When dry remove your outer panel with it's built in washout.
With this method you will have eliminated half the sheeting problem.
** For better results always use a tack cloth before using masking tape,
covering the model or painting,
I hope this is of some help.
Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 05/04/2010 07:02:11
Looking good, looking forward seeing the finished job as many
guys are I'm sure.
Another method of painting an insignia on a fin is,
mask it's outside dimension and paint the whole
area matt white,when dry add one mask down it's
centre and overpaint in red and blue, when removing
all m/tape you have a finished insignia.
Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 04/04/2010 09:16:49
Nearly missed your question.
To answer your question, do not use 6mm under TE of the outer panel
as you would end up with colossal washout, and the WO is in the
outer panel only.
As you wanting to build in washout (I did too) you require a taper,
Have you 6mm sheet stock? because this taper required is 44cm long
and it's taper is from 8mm down to 3mm. That taper will give 3.5--4 degree.
If you do not build in WO it is still best to build using a taper but that of
3mm to 5mm
If you have never built a wing with WO, I'm willing to do a run through.
of the build.
Your painting looks extremely good as does all your work. You my friend
are a true modelling perfectionist and teacher. I for one appreciates all
your pictures and sketch attachments as I'm sure the rest of the group do.
I'm sorry if I worried some of you guys about the tube fixings, but when I read TN
building instuctions in the magazine, I thought 'No way pal' ,
It was obvious to me those tubes on F4 & F5 should only be glued after
the wing's geometry has been established, and you require the finished
wing for that job.
This is my method of gluing the tubes in both inner wing panels.
First I clamped a 1m length of good STRAIGHT 18mm batten to your
Cut the carbon rods to length, and slide on the 4 pieces of brass tube.
Insert these into both inner wing panels.
Draw the wing panels to the batten so that the flap hinge spar is level with the batten
With both R1 ribs sitting on the build board, pack under both F9, ribs at the
main spar a pieces of 6mm balsa. This procedure sets the dihedral.
Check rod/tubes for level and are absolutely parallel. When satisfied epoxy
home the tubes
When the wing is finished you will see that the flaps run parallel to the
leading edge of the outer panels.
Yes that is fine.
Before adjusting W2 on the mainspar first do a dry run with the tubes,
as W2 might be just a fraction undersize in it's overall depth, but seating perfect
on the spar. Whatever you do, do not be tempted to glue those
tubes until both inner wing panels a built.
The tubes set the dihedral of the wings, and have to be absolutely level,
and parallel to each other.
Also do not glue the tubes to F4 & F5 until you whole wing is built.
The wing is the most critical part of the whole build.
Use a length of 6mm square.
Pin it to your board just under the TE. Before gluing do a dry run with ribs
positiond on the spar, then use a steel rule to check for any high ones,
check for reason and rectify.
Once satisfied glue your ribs in position pin to the mainspar,
and pin through the TE into the 6mm sq.
As long as all the ribs cutout for the main spar are exact, the LE will
automatically line up.
I deliberatly did not mention my method of wing building as I do not
wish to confuse.
By the way, you are doing a grand job.
Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 02/04/2010 18:25:33
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