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Member postings for Terry Whiting 1

Here is a list of all the postings Terry Whiting 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Building the Nijhuis Lysander
02/04/2010 07:50:15
Something similar, but the flap would have to remain  inline with  the wing.
Check on page 17,
there you will find an end on view of Mario's wing and flap installation.
That is the easiest option..........a double chamfer
01/04/2010 22:54:50
HI Keith,
The only one way to increase the degree of flap with that hinge configuration,
and that is to increase the flap chamfer. If the aircraft  had been 'split flaps'
it would have been simple as the split flap would have been bottom hinged.
I emailed TN when I first scrutinized the plan, his answer was, "If you can
manage 40 degree all the better". I wished now I had gone the true scale
route ( rolling hinge) on ailerons and flaps as Mario did with his rudder and
What I finally decided upon was to increased the chamfer on the flap,
 and chamfered the hinge spar of the wing. This gave me  40 degree.
The extra degrees of flap I wouldn't  contemplate if I hadn't variable flap
 control on my TX .
01/04/2010 07:20:59
I totally agree with you comment about the spats, and the canopy is no better.
The only decent piece out of the plastic pack is the cowl.
Your way of butt jointing the two halves together is also mine.
I removed my axle and taped the spat halves together for a trial fitting,
and found I could slide them over the aluninium leg but I didn't insert
them into the fuselage.
My spats are cut 5mm short of the fuselage, and a 20mm wide skirt  made
of .25mm ABS sheet which  is trimmed for a snug fit to the fuselage.
The skirt will be held in place by the wing strut. The skirt was made as
a weak link incase of undercarriage flexing due to a hard landing.
Once I found the spat would fit as a built unit, it was glued together.
 Formers were made of blue foam  inserted and glue at the spat top and
 the wheel arch. Axles and wheels fitted perfectly. Just have to give the
spats their second coat of paint.,
I will forward picture soon.

Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 01/04/2010 07:22:16

31/03/2010 20:53:55
Hi Mario,
I fitted the flaps and ailerons today using the covering as my hinge, but was not happy with the result. I have never used Black Tex before, but it seemed less pliable than natural Tex.
They will be removed tomorrow and will use the very small Du-Bro pin hinges
31/03/2010 20:34:51
I must have been walking round in my sleep, I was there 2 years  ago at a LMA do.
It had been a long day hot day and we left the Air space hanger to last.
I thing my my power of observation had eluded me.
31/03/2010 08:38:12
Really good pictures,
 I must say the restorers made a fantastic job, but I bet none came out of Westland looking that pristine.
 I hope it's used at flying shows, and not end it's days in some museum.
Nice flying shots, and one picture answer a query I was going to make, which was the position of the wing roundel
How long have they had that Lysander hanging in Duxford?, I know  they started hanging some aircraft, but have never seen the Lysander. 

Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 31/03/2010 08:58:21

Thread: CDScaleDesigns Sopwith Pup
31/03/2010 08:15:39
You will be surprised how rigid the tail surfaces will be,
I  used that means of fixing on the DB Scout when that model first came out which must be 25years+, my Club pals thought I was mad, but my answer was, if it works on the full size, it will a model.
Sinse then any of my builds (which have been many) with tail plane flying wires, I use that method of fixing. 
On my 1&1/2 Strutter and Tomtit it was used to adjust TP incidence after their maiden flights. 
Thread: Building the Nijhuis Lysander
30/03/2010 11:06:23
Hi guys,
Anything you can cover before fitting do so, If you have boobed and trimmed of a little too much don't worry as strip can always be added. The majority of  modellers try to obtain that perfect look, self included. In my case 'try' is the operative word.
 In the past I have always used those little tins of Humbrol, but I have found that Humbrol painted on ABS takes a good 36-48 hour to really harden and was not happy with the finish,.....   yes I was using a fresh tin.
My son introduced me to Revell, what a revelation, when dry you would have thought it sprayed, and is 25% cheaper than Humbrol which is £1.45 at my local shop, the equivalent to £103.50  Ltr.
I have now added the ladder. I used 2mm brass tubing. I made as a flat ladder for ease
in soldering the rungs, and it's lower fixing point. It was then shapped and fitted..
Quite pleased with the effect. I am also going to add the external fuel tank. I  built in the hard points prior to covering.
I think all us guys must be have agricultural tendencies,  

Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 30/03/2010 11:33:46

Thread: CDScaleDesigns Sopwith Pup
29/03/2010 10:06:34
I have been puzzling my head over why your laminations were being fabricated so light, but now all is clear, a centre core build.
I was thinking a similar build as my SE5 which was all open framework, hence the stong laminate .
Hope you find those missing pieces.
Thread: Building the Nijhuis Lysander
29/03/2010 06:44:49
That elevator tip section you mention is leading edge shaped. It acts I have been told as an aerodynamic  balancer. The rudder on the fullsize is not hinged as the plan, this   also has an aerodynamic balanced leading edge. This is achieved with one hinge in that cranked section, and has a pivot pin and bearing in the fuselage. I have replicated
this  into my Liz........Why ?    just to be different.
28/03/2010 19:31:23
That's a damn good album you have put together of the Lysander build, I would recommend anyone contemplating the build to check it out..
The speed  these models are coming along I realize I will have to stop day dreaming
and start doing some work.

Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 28/03/2010 19:57:32

28/03/2010 16:40:11
You can do it MT, in my book CNC stands for  "Certainly Never Capitulate''  
and capitulted you did not 


Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 28/03/2010 16:44:26

28/03/2010 14:52:13
Certainly like those rib holders ......
Yes it's always the way, take notice of the forecast, and lose a good days flying, but I live  on the boarders of the Chiltens and it's far from calm, but would be good for a bit of slope soaring.   
My prefered building board material is 'blockboard', have used it for years.
It'a a lamination of battens, face either side with ply, stays flat and is very stable.
Not cheap but lasts a life time.
28/03/2010 10:40:34
No holding back with you pal  , it looks as though we have an assembly line going here.
Keep the good work up. 
Without packers under the wing main spar how did you manage to seat the ribs, as the spar is recessed into the rib allowing for the lower sheeting to finish flush with the rib.

Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 28/03/2010 10:53:43

Thread: CDScaleDesigns Sopwith Pup
27/03/2010 08:37:21
I have in the past read of this techniqueit, but have never fancied trying. 
Any of my builds with compound curves such as the fuselage of my  ME262 I resolved  by planking. Now that I do find therapeutic.
Thread: Building the Nijhuis Lysander
27/03/2010 07:13:49
Hi Mario,
Very nice looking struts.    I'm now ready to make mine. I decided to cover them with aluminium self adhesive tape to simulate metal sheeting prior  to painting.
On the fullsize it's aluminium skin is an aerodynamic covering over the inner
working strut.
My wings are now covered, and the flaps and  ailerons are ready, but those I will fit last of all..
 Shouldn't worry about the wrong size sheeting, I only used  2mm. The only 3mm was used as planking under the tailplane, 3mm allowed for shaping.
 My wing, fin and tailplane is all from 1.5mm sheet,  stringers are  2mm X 6mm.

Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 27/03/2010 07:19:29

26/03/2010 20:38:57
Your Lysander is coming on really well,and made a nice job of your hatches, as for glue,  I only use Evostik  PVA.
4 mm  behing the hinge line will only give a small differential, but ideally
 they should be on the hinge line.
How is the wing coming on, I must say  it's not the easiest of wings for a first build.
Did you use packers under you main spars? 
Remember,  "if in doubt just give a shout"
Terry .

Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 26/03/2010 20:40:04

Thread: CDScaleDesigns Sopwith Pup
26/03/2010 09:03:56
Having fun, you should have used waterproof glue for boat building
A few years ago I built the Dennis Bryant SE5 A , and used the very same former technique, but no wood soaking.
I made it in a 5 layer lamination for the fin/rudder, and 7 lamination for the wing tips, The fin/rudder, stabilizer/elevators  lay up was 3  of 1/64" ply and 2 of 1/32" balsa.  Starting with ply and finishing with ply  ALL wood was cut cross grain, no soaking required.
The fin/rudder were made with 1/4" wide strips, the stabilizer/elevator was in 1/2" stips, and were strong enough to be bandsawn in half to make a mirror image.
Wing tips with 7 laminations but   1" wide, and bandsawn into 4 tips.
 I do use epoxy for laminating.  
Many of my models have laminated wing tips.     

Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 26/03/2010 09:04:28

Thread: Building the Nijhuis Lysander
26/03/2010 07:27:40
Hi Jim,
From what you said with the heads snapping off, the horn WAS quite secure after all.
In fitting the horn a little rearward of the hinge line will only make a  marginal difference
to the throws.
I fitted the spats to the undercarriage. I did state earlier in this topic I was going to try
balsa  packers and auto double sided trim tape, but after a trial I found the  tapes adhesive too vicious, what ever it touched it STUCK.
I'm pleased I didn't use it as I was not happy with my first attempt and to remove would have been inpossible.
I finally used blue foam and Evostik Serious Stuff. The blue foam I was given is 25mm thick, from this cut a 15mm wide strip and the shaped it into   formers which slid  easily  
in the spat leg.
 I found I only needed one small flat packer just above the wheel arch and shaped 15mm formers just where the wing strut is mounted. After careful measurerments taken it was easy finding the predrilled hole in the aluminium leg.
As Mario and I both made  removable panels in the spat for wheel fixing, it did enable
the spat to be fabricated before fitting to the aluminium leg,
 then it was easy bolting in the axle.
The undercarriage now is a complete working unit.
The landing lights are fitted and working and carries 6V Lithium   2 X 3V
button cells, and a 3g servo powered micro switch, it added just 6g.  
Just a matter of screw bolting home the carriage  and plug the switch lead
 into the flap extention lead which was wired before covering,
and the hatch covers all.
I could find on any sites  slim line wheels, so I reworked
Flair 3.5" (89mm) vintage wheels as this was the tyre size I was after.
In the lathe I turned off the domed spoke side, and glued in a made
up disc of heavy duty ABS.
As they say, Given the will there is always a way.




Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 26/03/2010 07:38:13

25/03/2010 19:00:09
Peter am I rceiving you correctly, you are using a screw ......for what,  an axle???
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