Here is a list of all the postings Terry Whiting 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Building the Nijhuis Lysander|
Just thought,as you have covered the tail surfaces, and as I have never used Acetone I do not know if it will have any effect on the covering's adhesive, before using try it on some screap covering.
Try Jack's method. If no joy, just cut off the long piece of the horn leaving the flat bolted piece, and reposition either along side the old one or the other side as you suggested.
Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 25/03/2010 07:12:46
I would hate to say all was well with that horn then the damn thing pulled out.
I personally would not be happy knowing the screws were only S-glued.
Yes RD8 looks a good choice for the Lizzie, I have in mine the DH C Beaver.
I have only three multi engined model at the moment .
The Grumman Albatros amphibian/flying boat ( love water plane flying).
My old Lancaster with brushed motors, but converted from Nicad to Lipo, and an own
design 60" span Messerschmitt 262A, which is powered by two Airpower 70mm fans.
The ME 262 is one of three own design EDF models I have built of late. The others being the DH Vampire, and the North American Fury FJ, the Naval version of the Sabre.
All based on the same 3s batteries and 70mm AP fans.
My favourite is the Vampire, it's only 40" span but is one little beaut to fly, and that tailplane being close to the thrust gives it a true scale sound.
Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 24/03/2010 14:32:46
|Thread: CDScaleDesigns Sopwith Pup|
Check out www.parkflyerplastics.com they just might have a substitute for the Rhone.
|Thread: Building the Nijhuis Lysander|
Hi there Jack,
I love Radial engined aircraft, and those Wasps you have found could well be used in my next winter project, which is to be the 'Bristol Beaufighter'.
I have just recieved the plan, and hasten to add is another Tony Nijhuis design.
I could change my Lysander radial as it's only screwed into the exhaust ring, but I think I will leave well alone.
Agree with your comment you only get what you pay for, and being your first scale build I quite understand, but for myself I have built too many to cause me concern.
I hope I'm not tempting providence when I say in all the years I have flown RC which is now coming up 55 years I have honestly never suffered servo failure in flight.
I gave up bulding IC twins not through servo, but engine failure, now I'm electric only,I'm back into twins.
£26 per servo....ouch.......I bought mine from BRC £6.99 each, and I may add are
damn good servos. They are Tower Pro MG 90s, yes metal geared, weight 13.49g with a stall rating of 2.2Kg. Plenty powerful enough for the small control surfaces of the Lizzie.
The undercarriage area I left open and sheet the remainder. I fitted (glued) a piece of 3mm birch ply to the fuselarge box where the undercarriage would be mounted, once dry I marked the aluminium position, drilled the holes and installed captive nuts from the inside of the fuselage, then cut two formers and made the hatch.
You could still do the same.
The under surface between F10 and 11, I planked with tapered strips of 3mm sheeting.
To get the stab profile I used a piece of serial box or srap balsa sheet. Cut the cardboard and pinned in position, from my scap box I used a piece of 6mm sheet about 10mm wide and 30mm long, this I taped flat to the writing end of a ball point pen, lay the balsa block flat on the stabilizer follow the conture and draw you profile on the cardboard or balsa sheet.
Mario you beat me to it.... yes that was my method also, we call it 'planking'
Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 23/03/2010 18:10:49
Steady with that thumb.
I think I remember you stating you bought a commercial tail wheel, is it one to be
screwed directly to the finished fuselsge? If it is you could use a piece of 3mm ply from F11 to 12, and a balsa packer between the ply and stabilizer then once sheeted screw on your tail wheel. Screw on tail wheels are quite adequate.
Mario and I have used 6mm ply because our wheels are castering which required a
bearing glued through the ply.
With this shape wing I wouldn't recommend it.
I sandwiched a 3mm front rib section between the main spar and false leading edge to give a better gluing area where the sheet joins.
None of my four wing panels were removed from the building boared until the leading edge sheeting was glued in place.
I must admit I do have my own methods of building . If you care to look at page 12
you will see my wing in it's bare bones. You can see triangular gussets glued to R9
this is because I fitted a 2mm ply dihedral brace between the main spars from R8 to R10
and passes through F9. That enabled me to finish all four panels before joining.
The long tube through the wing is a 15mm paper tube for aileron and flap servo leads.
Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 23/03/2010 06:28:15
NEVER "tweak" a 4st to get the last ounce of power.
I take it this 48 is for your Lysander. Just think you were ready for your maiden, that little tweak could well have rekitted the model.
Tweaking causes predetonation which can throw a prop., To be on the receiving end of a prop doing 10,000 rpm is not very nice for you or someone close at hand.
I think you had better get some advice from "IC Topics" as we do not want to turn
this thread into IC problems.
Sorry 'moderators' If i'm speaking out of turn
What is you battery. 1.2V or 2.0V? If it's a 2.0V and fully charge you could well be cooking your plugs, as I stated before, once the platinum element plating is burnt off
thats the end of it's natural life.
As for my Lizzie I regard it as a bog standard build, certainly not in the masterpiece category, and will be airborne late spring.
I agree it would be great to see all our builds together, and to meet each other personally, but in the real world it must be truely out of the question.
This site is our world. It pulled a group of like minded guys together from the UK and world wide. Mario, Portugal....KiwiG, New Zealand.....Papa Canada.......Geoff, Spain.
We have become a Global Club......Long may it last
Thanks Mario and Doug, I will certainly look out for them.
I usually use NEXUS Model Supplies for any small screws, but they do not stock them.
Nice model pal.
Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 20/03/2010 14:52:13
Find out from your Gramps what plug he fitted, and what is the manufactures recommended prop, because they are the only two items you have changed.
I was looking at your servo istallation and noticed your screws, I have never seen screws with an allen key heads. Are they screws or bolts?
Thank you very much for adding my Lysander pictures, much appreciated.
As you can see I removed my spats reason being I was not satisfied . I think the left hand pair came out of the mould whilst hot and were badly distorted and were requiring too much filler..
They have now been reworked, and are now a little slimmer as in removing the worst of the overlap and are now 'Butt jointed'. Doing so meant I needed slimmer wheels which I have on order.
The instrument panel is nothing scale, just a feature. It was made with 1.5mm liteply and a square of 3mm balsa.
The 3mm balsa gives a central stand out effect, all was painted with satin black, I then cut out instruments from aircraft mags and glued into position, I then overlaid with clear thin acrylic. The instument facia is cut from a serial packet, the holes punched out and painted. When attached to gives a reasonable effect.
The shape between F4 & F5 is a mock fuel tank which is as the full size aircraft.
I bet the pilot just loved that behind his ear hole
My tank is made from .25mm ABS sheeting, no weight, but fills a hole.
My canopy I made removable as my elevator and rudder servos are under the floor rear of F5. 4 screws hold the floor in place giving very easy access. Both are closed loop (pull pull)
The rudder I have hinged as the full size with one Robart at the top with pin and bearing at the bottom. I should think on the full size it gives an aerodynamic balanced effect.
Will be covering my wings over the week end.
Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 20/03/2010 05:49:42
Pleased to hear your thumb is on the mend.
The wing panels should really have an inner LE cut from 3mm sheet, this gives the top and bottom panel sheeting good support.
As I have been building for many a year I have collected a series of building boards dedicated to certain parts of a build. My wing boards have a length of 30mm aluminium angle screwed to one edge.
To this angle I use those plastic pinch clips to hold in place my inner leading edge which in turn give a good firm straight edge to work to.
How is the hand feeling, pretty stiff and damn bruised I bet, but hope it's healing well.
I agree with MT, Model Technics do a very good range of plug, but I always used the manufacturers recommended plug. As it is old and given by grandad, has it been thoroughly checked over as it might well need a good service. If it hasn't been serviced I advise don't waste £'s on it in the form of glow plugs until it is.
An OS FS plug is stamped with a F.
Also at the end of the thread it has a 2.5mm shroud non threaded . I think you will find your A3 is 2S plug, and by the way, I think these days an OS FS is about £6.--£7.,
No Peter, no such iron, anyway wouldn't want to use it as I might end up having to do my own shirts......and what a waste of modelling time that would be.
That 48 Surpass should idle beautifully on a 11X6. You said a brand new plug, but is it a genuine OS 4st.???
|Thread: 24" Sopwith Pup|
How are the tests going or are you waiting for some summer weather, can't blame you
as the weather has been abominable. Still early days.
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