Here is a list of all the postings flight1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Open tx 2.3.?|
With this problem it is the small text file that lets the system know you have the right sd card contents for the version of optx you have so a bit important.
when updating the sd card to preserve the custom voice and model picture files (you might have luna too etc) i copy and paste the new contents in each folder one by one and when the computer asks 'some files have the same name' i click 'replace these files' so preserving my custom extras hile updating whats' changed.
Sounds complicated but quite simple when done and in this case not a problem as you haven't made any custom stuff yet thats for later if needed.
Ps if models have been created don't delete that folder, always buck up with companion and when updated right back to radio.
|Thread: Jumper 4in1 module problem|
When you flashed it last you might have had a corupted flashing error try to flash it again you never know
|Thread: Open tx 2.3.?|
Well you might as well start from the latest release of opentx 2.3.1 from here install companion and set the correct radio in the settings first, then let it down load the latest version you want for your radion and flash .
then get the latest soud pack here With the sd card make sure you delete the old card contents and then unzip the new file and copy and past it onto the sd card. should be good to go then.
Edited By flight1 on 09/10/2019 14:51:51
|Thread: Jumper 4in1 module problem|
you have to set it to set it to PPM mode if not using a open tx radio/. try below allways ajust the encoder knob with radio off
Turn on or turn off the green light procedures are as following：Turn off radio, rotate the encoder knob switch to "0"position, then press and hold the black bind button, power on the radio meanwhile, release the button after 3 seconds, the green light will flash, optional protocolsswitchsimultaneously
Edited By flight1 on 08/10/2019 18:13:33
|Thread: A sticky glassing problem!|
If the epoxy hasn't gone off then it never will , the sticky bits is the epoxy that wasn't mixed properly and having this the laminate will never be at full strength. put in hot box for a week wipe off sticky with isopropyl alcohol (proper solvent for epoxy, be carefull) and apply flow cote over top or grind off completely and re do ()
With epoxy always weigh accurately to the specified ratio as per epoxy type used and mix thoroughly and use in temperatures reater than 16deg cel for good results
yes i am right always confusion with male and female connectors these days As for electrical connections you should always talk about the electrical connections and not the housing that surrounds it.
as for shorting out the resister won't prevent this just slow the amount of current flow on contact so it works just as well battery side or the other, basic electrical principles here.
Edited By flight1 on 04/10/2019 18:01:25
it shouldn't make to much odds but the connector that is least likely to be able to be shorted should go on battery side, so that should be female plug ie female contacts that are shouded by the yellow housing.
|Thread: Take off problems|
One other thing I have seen a lot is that many never allow the tail to lift up and fly before lift off. Always holding up elevator until the plane yanks off the ground which can lead to problems like not reaching a safe airspeed before lift off and this is very much a bigger problem the more scale and heavier the plane is. mabe try this if you already don't
i think this will be a process of checking each thing off until sorted.
do you have a wing incedence metere or can you borrow one from a mate? you need to check the wing tip trailing edge is up compaired to the root section basicly
here some links about it **LINK**
slso thread on here **LINK**
all good info
Check the main wheels are tracking true with a slight toe in, this will help keep a steady track on the ground and maybe need less rudder.
When you release rudder on take off does the left wing drop? because your description sounds like the left wing stalling so check the washout on the wings (release the rudder more slowly next time) also check your c of g as as very forward c of g will exacerbate the nose drop in stall stall.
Also are the ailerons in the neutral position when it is trimmed for level flight? and check the lateral balance of the model too
I had used a rx8r and a xm+ ( must bind with out telemetry the xm) had no issues, but have upgraded to rx8r pro and r-xsr throught a redundency bus so i get telemetry through both rx.s
Edited By flight1 on 22/09/2019 19:11:16
Edited By flight1 on 22/09/2019 19:35:14
|Thread: S8R problems...|
hi i got a couple of these rx and have had a dabble . found the instructions to be unclear in the order of set up.
1st calibrate the RX with the lula script be presice in doing so
2nd set the type of plane ie. delta or normal plane etc
3rd perform self check with model in correct neutral flying position and don't move model until complete.
4th then set gain / direction etc after reboot and go from there
i do think you are missing doing the self check procedure which should be done after each recalibration
here are instructions from some kind chap on YouTube see
the instructions are poor
Edited By flight1 on 21/09/2019 21:06:42
|Thread: Are all chargers unreliable?|
Just a thought To th Op's usage of chargers having them in nice little boxes, i hope he takes them out and puts them on a flat surface so they can have cool air flow around easily when used, because if not they will run warmer than they should and hence life is shortedned
|Thread: Morris gas conversion experience|
the asp is not noisy like a 2 stroke engine and if you use a baffled silencer on each cylinder you will find the noise to be very amicable. two asp .60 size baffled silencers with suitable manifolds will do nicely or make your own.
as for fuel I don't know what you use down under but 15% fully synth modern oil works fine, once run in and if you like straight fuel and know what you doing a lower oil content can be used
I know one person who converted an asp version and the big end siezed, made a wet sump with caster in it, which he replaces after each flight session and is still going now a few lears later.
why go petrol you will get less power out of it? and it will run a lot hotter so cooling is very important with baffrels needed directing air flow etc.
I have one and it is very reliable on 5% and has a low oil content fuel with fully synth oil to reduce any mess and I have not lost just one cylinder on it yet
Edited By flight1 on 04/09/2019 14:52:17
|Thread: A stubborn cam cover on four stroke|
have you tried warming it up gently? as it all gumed up it needs full stripping and cleaning and oiling before putting back together and as its striped anyway I would replace the front and rear bearings any way
Edited By flight1 on 01/09/2019 20:32:20
|Thread: TorqPro TP70-FS 70cc Gas Engine|
even though you are a big target i still missed It looks closer because it was zoomed in the camara
and now we all know it was you
Well time has past the engine is still good so here is another video (needed to be filmed better), It is easy to start as long as i prime it first so a good 20+ fast flick overs on first run of day ( only half of those acually suck as 4t)
|Thread: Methanol versus Petrol?|
No need to do that weston have low oil fuel aready done for you see
going to try the 7% in 5nitro on next order
|Thread: Prop failure|
Going by the fact that the split has traveled throught the hub to the other side rules out the spinner as it will have sheared of at the rub point. More likely to be a split or fault in the wood near the tip which opened up under the high loading flex as you pulled up and this has split apart folloing the wood grain.
as allways with wood props they require extra vigalnce each flight due to this vunrability (laminated one are less prone) and i always loosen the prop nut up when in storage/ after the days flying as the wood hub will keep compressing if not.
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