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Member postings for Robert Parker

Here is a list of all the postings Robert Parker has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Top Flight P40 - An ignored project
31/05/2020 11:32:15

Hi All,

I have all but finished the painting/weathering with just the gunsmoke trails and the canopy to paint.

Experienced a set back when my preferred airbrush would not work at all even after taking apart and cleaning the jet so I had to revert to an old Badger single action brush results are not as I would have liked a little too heavy but I'm only going to fly it at our patch whenever that is going to be as here in Wales we are still in lockdown with regards to flying.





My machine guns are made from 20mm balsa dowel for the shrouds and 7mm blue snake inners for the barrels



p40 colour scheme.jpg

I'm having a problem finding a set of decals, Pyramid Models are not taking orders until September due to construction works.

Can anyone suggest a supplier for the lettering, roundals and serial numbers I use the sharks mouth from the kit.



26/05/2020 18:00:59

Thank you, Alan,

I am getting back into it, nice to see it coming to an end instead of looking at it in its part finished state.



Thread: Novice needs help!
25/05/2020 19:33:30

Hi Tony,

I see the others have beaten me, but here are some photos I just did for a 610.



hope this helps



Edited By Robert Parker on 25/05/2020 19:33:58

Thread: Building Tony's Beaufighter
25/05/2020 11:51:47

Part 2









As I am almost finished my TF P40 build, I will revisit the undercarriage situation as here in Wales we are still in lockdown I still cannot fly.

I hope this info is of help Doug



25/05/2020 11:40:21

Hi All,

I have listed some details and articles from the build after a message I received.

This has also reminded me that I still have not modified the u/c or flown her yet.

Part 1.






Thread: Top Flite P51 - 65" span
23/05/2020 13:52:56

Hi Peter,

I recall having a similar problem with my TF P40 when I was building it.


Although with the TF P40 there is a curved underside to the fuselage which helped me hide the wheel when retracted.

I see from your photos that the Mustang is a lot wider at the tail wheel, I was pushed for space as you can see.

The instructions for the P40 also said to use cyano for most of the build. I'm not a great fan of building entire models from it, not to mention all of the fumes in a confined space, I used PVA or epoxy throughout the build, this allows me to make any adjustments if needed.



Thread: Top Flight P40 - An ignored project
23/05/2020 13:30:55

Hi All,

The painting has gone well so far I have finished the main colours and have just received some airbrush weathering paints.

The cockpit is now installed and is looking good. I have made the cross-hair gun sight, a little tricky to make using a paper clip and a strand of copper wire soldered together, a bit of fun.

What I have found lacking in this kit is the guns which I thought would have been part of the ABS moulded parts but it appears not. So I might have a go at making those too later.


Standing only 18mm tall it was tricky to get the copper wire to stay in place whilst soldering, this was my third attempt.





The reflector gun sight made from a piece of 1/4 balsa with a piece of plastic stuck to the top.

The cockpit is a kit from Bob Dively Model Aircraft which I bought when I purchased the kit.

I still need to source some decals I cannot get onto the pyramid models website so I'll have a look around the web.

That's all for now



Thread: Top Flite P51 - 65" span
21/05/2020 17:48:50

Hi Peter,

Your build rate is quite something I wish I could get so much done in a session.

With regard to your retracting tailwheel, I have done exactly the same with my TF P40 Warhawk which I'm currently finishing off after a 6-year layoff.

BTW my painted wing came out at 4lb 1oz with flaps retracts and 4 standard servos and covered with tissue and dope.

Keep up the good work



Thread: Balsacraft Limbo Dancer IC
10/05/2020 19:13:13

Hi Roy,

They are kits, not ARTF. It is a very simple kit to build, I built one many many many years ago.

As for IC kit. All this means is that one kit is for electric power and the other to suit an OS or similar engine.

Hope this is of some help



Thread: Top Flight P40 - An ignored project
10/05/2020 19:03:35

Hi All,

I have made some progress this weekend, I have fitted the servos and receiver, engine and silencer fitted and plumbed in the retracts.

I had to use 7 channels, in the end, I was hoping to couple up the retract servos with a "Y" lead but the travel needed for the air valve is small and the retracting tail wheel needs all the travel I can get so I will have to slave the 7th channel to the retracts.

It does not sound much but it took some time to get it all to fit, the "plumbing" is not finished yet.


OS 61 with Top Flight in-cowl silencer. I need to add some silicone tubing so it exits the back of the cowl and fit a remote glow clip as the cowl is so deep my glow stick is too short to reach the glow plug.


It does look very busy in a large fuselage thankfully it does all fit. The receiver is above the tank with the satellite receiver located below the gap in the servos.


Close up showing the rudder/tailwheel arrangement

From top to bottom, Throttle, Rudder (this connects both the rudder and the tailwheel via the servo arm which uses a closed-loop to the tailwheel), elevator, retract-tailwheel, and just in front is the air valve servo. The two extension leads are for the flaps and ailerons.

Next, painting.

That's all for now




Edited By Robert Parker on 10/05/2020 19:07:33

Thread: Balsacraft Limbo Dancer IC
10/05/2020 18:38:09

Hi Roy,

SLEC does both electric and IC kits.



Thread: Forum members' new models: Let's see them.
10/05/2020 08:45:47

Hi Paul,

Your Sunderland looks great.

I've had one for a few years now and is still in the box waiting to be built.

What size motors did you use?



Thread: Top Flight P40 - An ignored project
03/05/2020 16:41:13

Hi All,

I painted the airframe in primer today.





I have chosen the RAF desert colour scheme using Neville Duke's aircraft AK 675

p40 colour scheme.jpg


That's all for now



Edited By Robert Parker on 03/05/2020 16:44:22

Thread: Power consumption on multi engined model
03/05/2020 15:01:03

Hi Cliff,

I have use XT 60 or 90 connectors on all my multi-motor electric models but ensure your cables to the ESC's are large enough to carry the current.

Just as an aside, take look at the thread "lengthening wires", some debate and schools of thought.



Thread: Top Flight P40 - An ignored project
02/05/2020 15:52:20

Hi All,

I have had a good week working on the P40 and I decided to bite the bullet and put in twin servos for the ailerons worthwhile doing so as I have managed to get more than I need in aileron throws, better to have too much and dial it out than wish you had more when things are getting ugly I say.

That said I did manage to break my 20-year-old model stand but I have ordered another so this one should see me almost to my eighties!!!!!


I had to perform a little surgery to run the extension leads for the aileron servos, no wonder I could not fish it through.


A little more surgery, I cut out the bell crank and removed the push rods from both wing halves.


New ply plate and servo


All together and filled


I had to fit some hardwood block in place to catch the horn screw


The flaps/wings have come out well.

Now I can proceed to finish her off starting with a coat of primer all over

That's all for now



26/04/2020 14:01:24

Hi All,

I have worked on the warped wing this morning and now waiting for the glue to dry to see if we have success.

dsc06181 (800x531).jpg

Just a re-cap on just how bad it was originally. I used a heat sealing iron on high to pull it out

dsc06183 (800x531).jpg

and it worked

but the time in the attic brought it back not as bad as above so I tried the iron technique again and it was less successful this time so I removed one of the trailing edges which is 1/16th ply and make a new one then on both bays I used a razor saw and cut through the ribs whilst clamping a piece of 2x1 timber to the top edge and then re-cutting each rib until there was no resistance then glued them in place.




Just need to cut this out and glue in place

That's all for now



25/04/2020 19:36:19

Hi All,

Well I have sanded back Freddie's Secret Sauce and filler and all has gone well, very well. I have even applied some undercoat just to see how well it has worked and sanded that back as well apart from some very small blemishes which have been filled I'm a happy chap.









I'm happy with the finish overall,

That's all for now next I'll spend some time reading how I pulled back the warped wings above the flaps and see if I can improve the aileron movement with the servo installed or go for twin servos.



Thread: Dulux Trade emulsion and varnish??
25/04/2020 19:09:23

Hi Chris,

I used fibreglass for the first time last year and used the following with good results.

Thanks to Chris aka McG 6969 for the tip, mix a quantity of lightweight filler, Red Devil, One Time or similar, then add the same quantity of water-based varnish, (I use Ronseal diamond glaze) then add an equal amount of talcum powder and add some water-based paint to give it some pigment mix all together until and add some water if needed to give a consistency of whipped cream and paint on the model with a brush allow to dry and sand with wet and dry 300 grit or thereabouts this gives an almost glass-like surface ready for painting I use Halfords rattle cans primer and topcoats and sealed with fuel proofer for my glow engines or left without for my electric models.


fibre glassed and the mixture applied


All sanded back and primer/filler applied


Topcoat applied to my Dornier Do24

I'm currently restoring an unfinished Top Flight P40 Warhawk which I abandoned 8 years ago and was stored in the attic. I got as far as priming the airframe, the time in the attic split the balsa in several places and I used the formula directly over the primer after gluing and filling the splits and so far it seems to have worked.

Hope this is of some use to you



Thread: Top Flight P40 - An ignored project
23/04/2020 19:21:19

Thank you Alex, the flaps are still on the to do list.

Hi All,

I have painted the fuselage and wing top side with "Freddies B's Secret Sause", thanks to Chris on a previous project. For those less enlightened as I was it a mixture of ployurathane varnish, lightweight filler, talcum powder with a dash of pigment. I applied this yesterday evening.

I will have some time over the weekend to rub it back and see how well it has covered/filled those blemishes.


Very difficult to see here but here is a close up


The lumps are bits of talc/filler not fully mixed, they will come off easily with some wet 'n' dry.

That's all for now



19/04/2020 19:16:59

Hi All,

Thanks for all your replies. True it will not be a top-end scale model but an average flyer I hope, more the pilot than the plane.

So last night I filled all of the splits with glue and today had a good go with the wet 'n' dry which has revealed mixed results. I think the top sheeting of the wings is more or less done, filling the cracks seems to have done the trick with a bit of filling here and there.


With the high spots taken off and some filler I think we'll be OK, The trailing edge above the flap is that warped and the other side is similar, but I have a plan.

Now the underside was less of a success


The sheeting has split more and at the time I built this to plan and used the central aileron servo and bell cranks so if I'm going to cut out of the bad areas I may as well opt for twin aileron servos, having checked the control throws I'm not totally pleased and would like to tweek a bit more as at present the throws given in the instructions are 1/2" each way for low rates and 5/8" each way for high, just moving the central push rod is quite an effort to get the 1/2". The linkages are smooth enough and run free. I may try and increase the clearance between the trailing edge of the wing and the leading edge of the aileron.


Both sides are pretty much the same.

Just by chance, I found some of my original build photos going back to 2012 and If I can make a route from the aileron to the flap servo the rest should be straight forward by using the flap lead route.


The fuselage I thought yesterday was in fairly good shape and on the whole it is apart from the joint lines running down the fuselage which has been given a good sanding with the wet "n" dry


Next task, fill, fill, fill, and rub back

That's all for now



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