Here is a list of all the postings stu knowles has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Our group had a man with his own 7ft mower who quite enjoyed cutting the field, but it meant that we were totally reliant on one person. If he went on holiday, took ill etc, there was no sensible back up plan to keep the club going.
To ensure that the club would carry on come what may we have contracted out the grass cutting to a commercial operator. Grass cutting costs went up from £400 a year to £1000 and individual subs from £25 to £50.
I'm pleased to say that most people have stuck with the club despite the increase. he grass gets cut regularly, No member is being put upon and the future of the club does not hinge on the health and welfare of one person.
I call that a good result for the long term future of the club.
|Thread: OS 46 - stripped crankcase cover screw threads|
Is there any original thread in the bottom of the hole?? Insert a short length of 3mm studding and bottom it in the hole. If the threads hold, use a nut of the outside. Costs nothing so might be worth a try.
Edited By stu knowles on 06/10/2020 12:57:18
|Thread: Nearly that time of year again... AGMs|
Our group pays the field in July. The club no longer collects the BMFA fee and everyone does it themselves directly. Cuts down on a whole load of admin.
|Thread: Skydiver build blog|
|Thread: Svenson Fly-Boy|
I've found free castoring tailwheels to be useless. A fixed wheel will still be steerable on grass, less so on tarmac
|Thread: Can I have two Life batteries powering my Futaba receiver?|
I am another long time user of two batteries into two switches into both single and twin RX equipped models.
I accept that in the case of a dead short both batteries will be discharged but in all the time that I have been flying I have never come across this situation. I don't use diodes to minimise the number of connections/ joints
I have encountered batteries running out of amps when they were thought to be good / charged many times.
My belief, and your mileage may vary on this, is that if one battery was fully charged and the other flat, then the flat battery does NOT leach power out of the good one. I believe this to be an internet myth but each must decide for themselves. I use both NmH 'C' cells and LiFe batteries.
I won't use AA size RX batteries in anything with more than three channels
I am reliably informed that people in LaMAland did trials on several models and found that they were perfectly control-able using just one half of an elevator and just one aileron.
My most complex model has two batteries, each with two output leads, four switches with one switched lead from each battery going to each of the two RXs.
(stands back and waits for his B certificate to be publicly shredded as he is excommunicated from the BMFA)
|Thread: In search of a LARGE canopy|
I don't have any good photos of the U/C but you can probably work it out from this one. The Bede uses 80 Newton small rams. I have tried 60 Newton rams and they are too soft.
The whole issue of using gas rams in an U/C is new to me but I think that it has potential. There are two lengths of Kitchen door G/ram as shown in the photo. I sourced mine via ebay at around £2 each. They are available in 10 Newton increments from 50 to 150 if you shop around.
The next project has large wheels retracting into a nacelle. I am exploring using the longer ram with the rod section uppermost and covered by an alloy tube. The top of the tube needs a solid plug turning to fit the tube tightly with the threaded end of the ram screwed into it. These will then be clamped into a cross bar with a single central pin into the retract unit. The good thing about them is the length of travel, around 3 inches which will absorb the bumps.
Will it all work?? No-one knows until we try , but a commercial retract set and oleos comes in at £430 so there's plenty of room for experimentation.
Anyone else tried them who can offer their experiences??
To finish this thread properly, here is the finished result as flown last night.
The large canopy proved impossible to source anywhere in GB or the EU so a blue foam plug was shaped, covered in cling film and glassed/sanded to produce quite an effective if opaque canopy.
The wing is a foam veneer blank found on the BMFA ad site. Much comparison to photos and three view ended with the realisation that the huge chord limited the number of possible prototypes but the Bede DB8 looked to be the right proportions.
Fus drawn up from a three view and simply constructed. Fin/rudder is blue foam with a balsa frame for added ding resistance. Tailplane is all flying as prototype, also blue foam/balsa frame
The whole lot is covered with brown paper and PVA, finished in cellulose car paint.
U/C was found at a swopmeet and is a standard ally u/c with extensions which use 'cheap as chips' kitchen dor gas rams for springing and shock absorption. A neat idea which has potential.
Stats are Scale 1/3rd. 78" span, Zenoah 62. Never been weighed but carries no nose weight which is always a bonus
I think that the wing was £40, the u/c £20 and the rest put together for not much at all so probably sub £100 for airframe costs.
I have never done much glasswork but the cowl and canopy have turned out well so it's always worth having a go.
Thanks to all who contributed to the original canopy search.
Edited By stu knowles on 02/09/2020 15:04:01
|Thread: where to buy|
Do tell more about the Walrus please!
|Thread: In search of a LARGE canopy|
Thanks for looking ED. Yes the link does look promising although on looking a little deeper the web site was last updated in 2013. I've sent an e-mail bit I'm not hopeful.
Ooooooooooh!! Jesus, you could be a life saver! Email sent.
Not seen this kit range before, some interesting models in there
Thank you for responding
Thanks ED much appreciated
Hi kc. The Dennis Tapsfield plan was at 1/4 scale. This one is 1/3rd which takes it up to 78" span and Zenoah 62 power
At one time, 3rd Pitts were not uncommon. Glens Models did a 1/3 Cap 232 and I see quite a few large scale aerobats on YouTube but so far no luck in sourcing a spare canopy.
I have tried all the usual outlets, Sarik, Vortex, SLEC etc, they have nothing, no answer at Glens Models, are they still in business??
Hello to All
I n best back to front traditions, I find that I have built a model to an advanced stage and now am struggling to find a suitable canopy to fit.
The model is a 1/3 scale example of the Bede BD8
My version was test flown last Friday and is currently at this stage
Not so! Sarik, Vortex, Fighteraces and Motors and Rotors have all struck a blank so I am here to throw myself at the mercy of the collective to ask, -
Has anyone got a large clear canopy lurking in the deep recess' of the shed. Sizes are 245 wide 145 high at the rear turtle deck and 350 plus mm long.
I could form a foam plug and do a non see through epoxy/glass 'cover' and paint it black or silver but the cockpit forms such a visual part of the model I really want to find a clear canopy if at all possible.
Anyone got anything or could give me a lead on a likely supplier??
|Thread: Boulton & Paul Defiant|
I can't imagine what the noise was like when the Defiant's turret was turned ahead and the four muzzles were just behind the pilots ears!
|Thread: Peter Russell's Models. Anybody know what happened to them?|
I seem to remember that the numbers were consecutive numbers of the models that he had built, I have a vague memory of it being mentioned in his column
Stu K OBE 'off beat enthusiast'
|Thread: dave smith models|
If there's only one pipe between the two tanks, that will not work because the air can't escape.
If the fill pipe was into the bottom tank and the a vent pipe in the top tank, that would fill from the bottom up..
Its not a system that I have seen before but I see no reason why it wouldn't work. Is the small tank behind the firewall to accommodate a retract unit??
|Thread: Use of SBUS/PPM converters in a wing.|
I have pulled out the wing that has an Sbus converter on the two flaps and L/Light switch. I plugged it into the fus and switched on and Lo! one flap servo, a HiTec 645 dead as a dodo.
Getting them out means cutting into the wing covering but at least I now know that it isn't a servo problem. Without reading this I would have pulled the dead one out and replaced it with another of the same type.
Lesson learned. Thanks for bringing this up
|Thread: Four Engine electric setup|
Have you seen the Short Solent in the plan range from Ivan Pettigrew??
|Thread: Sopwith Pup refurb|
Have you covered it with Diatex / Ceconite?? Heat shrink microlight fabric and dope?
If so I would love to know what you did and what you think of it as a material for larger models
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